Need help with mustache stubble

[OldeSchool]

Hey gang. I need some help. I have been wet shaving for a little over a year now with a DE and achieve BBS shaves almost every time... except for my damn mustache area. I go WTG, XTG and sometimes ATG, but if I go ATG I find that I can get irritation or ingrowns there (sensitive skin!). I shave with a Merkur HD usually with Derby or Feather Platinums, and the results vary with both.

Does anyone have any tips for me? I've tried watching different videos and have even investigated method shaving's techniques to no avail. My morning process goes like this:

Shower, spash hot water on face, face lather, WTG, XTG, WTG, ATG, wash, cold water splash, aftershave. Thoughts?

 

[jakespoppy]

With my mustache, if I don't go ATG, I can't get BBS. My whiskers grow in every direction, so I have to do 4 passes for BBS, including the mustache. You might try "easing" into the ATG by shaving at an upward 45 degree angle in both angle directions before doing the full straight up ATG pass. I find this extra whisker reduction which leaves even less whiskers helps make the ATG pass easier to do without irritation.

 

[zameus]

Try using a milder razor or dial down an adjustable when you go ATG on your mustache area. Also, use something really slick for lubricant like unlathered KMF. It almost goes without saying but minimal to no pressure.

 

[OldeSchool]

My whiskers grow in every direction, so I have to do 4 passes for BBS,

As do mine.

Maybe I need more approach angles to get my hair down low enough to where my ATG isn't as harsh.

Try using a milder razor or dial down an adjustable when you go ATG on your mustache area. .

I also have an old Gillette SS that I could use that is not as heavy of a razor. The problem with that is its not great on 1+ day beard growth for me. Funny problem... my beard doesn't grow in heavy, but where it does grow in, the hair is like steel.

Thanks for the pointers so far guys.

 

[jakespoppy]

As do mine.

Maybe I need more approach angles to get my hair down low enough to where my ATG isn't as harsh.


I also have an old Gillette SS that I could use that is not as heavy of a razor. The problem with that is its not great on 1+ day beard growth for me. Funny problem... my beard doesn't grow in heavy, but where it does grow in, the hair is like steel.

Thanks for the pointers so far guys.

Let us know how it works for you.

 

[OldSaw]

With my mustache, if I don't go ATG, I can't get BBS. My whiskers grow in every direction, so I have to do 4 passes for BBS, including the mustache. You might try "easing" into the ATG by shaving at an upward 45 degree angle in both angle directions before doing the full straight up ATG pass. I find this extra whisker reduction which leaves even less whiskers helps make the ATG pass easier to do without irritation.

That's pretty much what I was going to suggest. I have difficulty here as well and find that only the sharpest blade will work. Two shaves is about all I can get from a blade and still shave ATG on my upper lip.

Also, nothing wrong with keeping that Gillette SS just for the mustache. I frequently use two razors. I can get more shaves out my WTG/XTG razor and keep my ATG razor just for ATG.

 

[dpmtherrien]

The thing that has helped me the most in problem area's such as you describe, has been Mantic's J-hook technique. That combined with some very light blade buffing does the job for me.

You also might want to try sticking your tongue up under your upper lip to raise the stubble more, or puffing a bit of air into that area.

 

[pezdaddy]

You could try ATG blade buffing.

 

[DamnFineBob]

This is what works for me:

With the grain, diagonal to the grain, then diagonal in the other direction - NO XTG passes, I only wind up nicking my nose! Finally, I blade buff ATG... many short, light strokes with a mild razor (Tech) or my Gillette Slim set to #1. I get smooth as can be on the upper lip, and irritation is rare as my skills improve.

YMMV.

 

[Go West Young Man]

2 XTGs in opposite directions are just as good as 1 ATG pass.

 

[mr. s]

Best method is to grow a moustache.

 

[OldSaw]

This is what works for me:

With the grain, diagonal to the grain, then diagonal in the other direction - NO XTG passes, I only wind up nicking my nose! Finally, I blade buff ATG... many short, light strokes with a mild razor (Tech) or my Gillette Slim set to #1. I get smooth as can be on the upper lip, and irritation is rare as my skills improve.

YMMV.

This is another excellent technique. I use blade buffing a lot.

 

[sirleanalot]

I find that by the time I get to the ATG pass (i do WTG, 2 x XTG, ATG) my strokes subconsciously get longer, nearly like the ones I used to do with the pivot head mach 3s. And that used to cause problems like missed spots, uneven shave, and irritation.

I now make a conscious effort to keep the strokes short and light on ATG, and it has helped a great deal in making the shaves better and getting rid of soreness. Try it. Maybe you're just getting tired and running out of patience by the time you get to ATG, and forgetting the basics!