Myth or Fact? Will shaving progressively give a better shave? Or not?

[GlazedBoker]

I have read discussions here on various threads concerning shaving progressively with an adjustable razor would result in a better, smoother shave. And what I mean by progressive is that at each time a pass is made whether WTG, XTG or ATG, at the end of each stage the razor is adjusted to a higher setting making it more aggressive. Many here believe that following this method or technique if you like, provides a better shave than.

There are many here who also believe that starting at a higher setting (aggressive) and adjusting the razor to a lower setting after each pass (milder) is just as good at providing a smooth and efficient shave. I will say it's regressive shaving because you're decreasing the amount of aggressiveness at each pass.

And then there are those who grab an adjustable de, set it at a particular number setting and continue to shave away without ever touching it again (I am one of these). So far, for me it has worked and no ill effects of shaving this way. But, I am intrigued by the 2 former methods of shaving and on how one should attack stubble during the shave.

So, I decided I am going to take both of these methods and techniques and put them to the test and see if there are any advantages for either method employed. Or if it is all just a myth and hearsay and really there is no advantage to either form that is used in our daily ritual of whacking our whiskers in obtaining a DFS or BBS result.

I've listed my tools of choice below as to keep everything fair and square and in trying to keep all variables to a minimum. Hopefully I'm on the right track.
List:
Razors: 2 Parker Variants (Matte Silver, Black)
Soaps: Stone Cottage Creams (Coconut Sandalwood & Suede de Kashmir)
Blades: Kai S/S
Brush: Semogue #1305 Boar

I use no pre-shave routine except for a hot shower and Wanderer Hawaiian Ginger face wash. Then my regular items post shave which consist of Witch hazel, A/S splash or balm. I will perform 2-3 passes for each shave with one side being progressive, turning the dial up in 1 or 2 step increments after each pass, and the other side being regressive, turning the dial down in 1 or 2 step increments after each pass. I will do this equally on both sides of my face. I will shave for a whole week using these methods and will switch up accordingly from left or right in determining which method provides the best shave for me.

So, I will begin this experiment tonight, at roughly 9pm eastern time. If I am missing something or any recommendations that any of you might have, please don't hesitate to drop a post or thoughts you may have.

What do you think Gentlemen? Which method is better? My first results coming up soon....

 

[Hoka Hey]

Sounds like an interesting and worthwhile experiment. No idea which will work best.

Personally, I'm working on the one pass wonder shave. The Kai's (or Feathers) are essential to my quest, so you should end up with a good shave regardless of method.

 

[RSC]

Interesting. When you decide which is better (progressive or regressive), will you compare that to leaving the razor at an unchanging setting?

 

[GlazedBoker]

Interesting. When you decide which is better (progressive or regressive), will you compare that to leaving the razor at an unchanging setting?

Good question. But I do get an excellent shave with leaving the razor at a set position. At least I would like to think so. Just trying this out of curiosity and see if my shave can be better with either method. Or if it's just a myth and it really doesn't matter how you get there. Technique and proper set up will trump everything, all things being equal. But I just want to see if there is truth in either theory..

 

[GlazedBoker]

First shave in the books. 16 hour stubble. Really nice shave.

Left side was the Black Variant progressive starting at 1, and the right was the Silver Variant regressive starting at 5. Stone Cottage Suede de Kashmir and Kai blade.
1st pass WTG= Both sides felt very smooth. Right side with Silver had much more blade feel, but very smooth nonetheless. Both glided effortlessly, and the slickness of the cream helped them immensely.

2nd pass ATG= Left side Black was dialed up to 3, right side Silver was turned down to 3. Both excellent passes. Reduced stubble on both sides to practically nothing. Still a few stragglers on my jawline to neck area, always a tough spot for me. These Kai blades are super sharp, but oh so smooth. Set up for pass #3.

3rd pass XTG= Left side Black dialed up to 5, right side Silver dialed down to 1. Started from ear to nose and neck to throat and did not disappoint. Left side much more blade feel and right side was barely noticeable. Great shave from both sides, with super smooth finishes on both. Did a minor touch up and buff on the left portion of my chin, noticed a tiny weeper. Buffed up right side, clean as a whistle. Superb BBS shave on both sides.

Did a quick cold water rinse and an alum pass and did feel an ever so slight irritation on the left side jawline area, right side nearly perfect with a tad bit reminder next to the Adam's apple area. Weeper non existent with the alum pass. Cleaned up the tools, cold water rinse again and Witch Hazel with Nivea sensitive balm to close it out.

Overall an excellent shave with a weeper on the left side and slight irritation that only lasted about 10 minutes. Right side was practically perfect, except for the Adam's apple spot but was irritation free and smooth and supple. The blade and razor combo is sweet! Plus the Stone Cottage cream is the real deal. Awesome protective qualities that facilitate in getting the best shave one can get.

Close, but I would give the edge to the regressive method of shaving this round. The right side of my face just felt a bit better, and practically no irritation vs some slight irritation for the left and the tiny weeper. Still got a week to go, time will tell......

 

[imatabor]

Gus, fantastic read. Your very own Grudge Match!!

 

[GlazedBoker]

LOL!!!
I don't think this is how it will end, but you never know........

 

[imatabor]

LOL!!!
I don't think this is how it will end, but you never know........
View attachment 787783

I was picturing something more like this :

Spoiler

 

[santamariasteve]

Interesting. When you decide which is better (progressive or regressive), will you compare that to leaving the razor at an unchanging setting?

Yes! Please do.

 

[DCRIII]

This is a great thread and glad you're sharing your results.
When using a adjustable razor, I'm a regressive shaver. I started doing this thinking I'd save my face from irritation. From the sound of your results this first time around, my reasoning might be correct to a degree.
I'd be interested to find out if your results will continue to be a the same.

 

[seattleshaver]

I don't think it will make any difference as far as how close the shave is. Once you cut any whiskers sticking out how can you get them any closer?

The regressive approach may result in less irritation for someone with poor shaving technique who is getting irritation but dialing the blade back can't result in a closer shave.

Going the other way could result in less irritation for some (again with poor technique) as you are gradually reducing the whiskers.

I don't see how any of those approaches could be any closer than a fixed approach once you have chosen the closest setting for your face that doesn't result in irritation.

In any event, if you don't stop shaving (multiple passes) until you get a smooth shave then I don't see how any approach can improve upon that.

 

[SteveP]

Very interesting question and I love that you are putting in the time to find answers. I have been wondering if there is any benefit to changing settings on each pass.

 

[Locobadger]

Interesting observations, my results are similar. I find a progressive shave provides for a longer lasting shave, however it does lead to slightly more irritation on my neck with a 3 pass shave. -Not surprising as I tend to do WTG, ATG & ATG on my neck.

 

[Cumberland Sausage]

Interesting stuff. I've tried the progressive approach with my Gillette Fatboy and Slim, but usually employ the leave at one setting method. TBH I've not noticed any difference between the two, either in closeness of shave or irritation level.

 

[BSAGuy]

Makes no difference. For my adjustables, I just set it and forget it.

 

[Trenchdigger]

I would guess that it makes no difference over an equivalent non-adjustable 3 pass shave, or the difference is marginal at best.

That said, I don't have the patience to do a three pass shave. I usually get a DFS shave in one WTG pass, and don't bother with going further.

Very rarely I attempt a 2 pass shave: WTG XTG. In those situations, with a non-adjustable DE, I definitely achieve a closer shave.

Have you thought about shaving half your face with the adjustable, and the other half with the non-adjustable DE to get a true side by side comparison? I do that occasionally when I get a new razor to help judge my technique and effectiveness of the razor.

 

[GlazedBoker]

I would guess that it makes no difference over an equivalent non-adjustable 3 pass shave, or the difference is marginal at best.

That said, I don't have the patience to do a three pass shave. I usually get a DFS shave in one WTG pass, and don't bother with going further.

Very rarely I attempt a 2 pass shave: WTG XTG. In those situations, with a non-adjustable DE, I definitely achieve a closer shave.

Have you thought about shaving half your face with the adjustable, and the other half with the non-adjustable DE to get a true side by side comparison? I do that occasionally when I get a new razor to help judge my technique and effectiveness of the razor.

Interesting point. That just might be my next step. But I do believe there is a benefit to progressive shaving. So far, no stubble after almost 12 hours on my left side, still very smooth, while my right side I can feel the faintest of stubble starting to form.....

 

[CamberwellCarrot]

My money's on the regressive shave winning this round, and a tie coming between regressive and a fixed midrange setting on an adjustable or on a fixed gap razor. Assuming you stay with the same sides of your face for each method in round 2 and shave 24 hours later, I predict cumulative irritation on the progressive side.

Increasing aggression per pass just seems antithetical to the reason multi-pass shaving has become so widely accepted - gradual reduction of the beard with minimised irritation of the skin. Using the most aggressive setting on the ATG pass, which is the most likely to cause irritation for a great number of people is probably not going to work for a majority of shavers. Some will be able to succeed at it, but I think it won't work for most.

 

[GlazedBoker]

Starting to get the slightest feel of stubble on the left side, the right is definitely into starting the 5 O'clock shadow ritual. So, 9:30pm shave. Longevity of the smoothness of the shave was better on the left lasting 13 1/2 hours compared to roughly 10 hours for the right side. Worth it? I don't know. Will need to get a few more shaves in to be fair all around...

 

[santamariasteve]

My money's on the regressive shave winning this round, and a tie coming between regressive and a fixed midrange setting on an adjustable or on a fixed gap razor. Assuming you stay with the same sides of your face for each method in round 2 and shave 24 hours later, I predict cumulative irritation on the progressive side.

Increasing aggression per pass just seems antithetical to the reason multi-pass shaving has become so widely accepted - gradual reduction of the beard with minimised irritation of the skin. Using the most aggressive setting on the ATG pass, which is the most likely to cause irritation for a great number of people is probably not going to work for a majority of shavers. Some will be able to succeed at it, but I think it won't work for most.

Brother Carrot, I agree with your thoughts 100%.