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My latest .

This is a AceShaving 21mm Best Badger knot. I turned the handle from an aged black walnut blank. It's quite soft with good back bone.

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Ronnie
 
Please let us know what you think of the knot and nice job on the handle, the color and finish really POP!
 
Ace Shaving Best is one of the real "sleepers" on the market.
I have used many of these in various restorations.
Close in feel at the tip to Silvertip but with more backbone.
 
What was your process? Did you use a lathe and spin it on like CA glue, or just brush it on, and sand/polish it out after?

It's a very slow curing finish that is designed to hold decorative threads in place on a fishing rod. I also build custom fishing rods, so this was a natural progression for me as I took up wet shaving. I apply it with a brush immediately after mixing and it must be turned on a low RPM (18-25rpms) motorized rotor for 4-6 hours to keep it from sagging. More coats can be applied after 5-6 hours (each coat). Final coat needs to turn for 5-6 hours and dry for 24+ hours. You can apply more finish after 24 hours, but then sanding is required to prevent coats from separating. Environment needs to be between 65 & 80 degrees and protected from dust that will stick to the finish while drying. There's some other minor steps in the process that I use to control bubbles and aid curing. It's not difficult, but it does require some special care. If you mess it up, it's hard to recover. I usually just start over. I hope all this makes sense, but that's how I do it.

Ronnie
 
It's a very slow curing finish that is designed to hold decorative threads in place on a fishing rod. I also build custom fishing rods, so this was a natural progression for me as I took up wet shaving. I apply it with a brush immediately after mixing and it must be turned on a low RPM (18-25rpms) motorized rotor for 4-6 hours to keep it from sagging. More coats can be applied after 5-6 hours (each coat). Final coat needs to turn for 5-6 hours and dry for 24+ hours. You can apply more finish after 24 hours, but then sanding is required to prevent coats from separating. Environment needs to be between 65 & 80 degrees and protected from dust that will stick to the finish while drying. There's some other minor steps in the process that I use to control bubbles and aid curing. It's not difficult, but it does require some special care. If you mess it up, it's hard to recover. I usually just start over. I hope all this makes sense, but that's how I do it.

Ronnie

Whats the name of the product and where do you get it? ... Seems like it yields a nice finish.
 
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