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My Grande Journey

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Very interesting discussion of gap, etc.

Much to think about, ponder, and reflect upon.

That was sort of my point in describing it in the detail I did. I dont believe many do think about such seemingly trivial and/or small things, but when you're talking about a very sharp instrument against ones skin, especially on the face of a person, very small and seemingly minor and trivial things, can have a very large impact.
 

Raven Koenes

My precious!
Thanks!

I wonder if the handles are giving each razor a different personality.


In saying all that, the day after my first shave with the GSB in this razor, I did have a couple very slight ingrown hairs, but as I said, they've really never been a problem for me and that was an exceptionally bad shave lol.
I think the different handles change the personality to a point. Especially how the razor handles. My Piccolo is definitely my most maneuverable. I'm thinking the aggressiveness thing is in my head. My Retro seemed more like a regular Fatip today. I'm definitely going back to my three pass shave because I'm a creature of habit and comfort. I felt like I did as much work in two passes as I did in three, so it might as well have been three.

P.S. Maybe GSB is not for you.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I think the different handles change the personality to a point. Especially how the razor handles. My Piccolo is definitely my most maneuverable. I'm thinking the aggressiveness thing is in my head. My Retro seemed more like a regular Fatip today. I'm definitely going back to my three pass shave because I'm a creature of habit and comfort. I felt like I did as much work in two passes as I did in three, so it might as well have been three.

P.S. Maybe GSB is not for you.


I've also found different handles give a different shave with the same razor. I'll never understand how you remember which goes with what among your razors, I never could haha. I get confused enough between the Ball End Tech handle and the New Common Bar lol.

GSB has never been a blade of choice for me since my first use of one, and I've used 6 of them so far.

I'm confused by the blade sharpness thing. Virtually everyone says the GSB is on the sharper end of the blade spectrum, especially those that really like them, while few think of it as a less sharp blade. Much the same as the Gillette black, that I had marginally better luck with but still found it lacking sharpness. I dont find Feather blades the King of Sharpness like virtually everyone does. For some its almost like their whiskers fall off in fright when they pick up a razor loaded with one, but not me, and yet, the much hated and seemingly the lowest blade on virtually everyones list Derby Extra, I find very sharp and uncannily smooth.

I'm curious if you've ever used a Derby Extra in any of your Fatips or have any experience with them in any razors and if so which razor(s) and how was the shave for you?

I found them nearly as nice as Polsilver in my Brit Rocket, the same in my NEW SC and equal to a Polsilver in my Regent while being slightly smoother. I havent tried one in my Tech, but perhaps I should as it works so well for me in all razors I have used it in.

I just cant understand why they work for me, when I really need a rigid and sharp blade, and yet people call them "dull".

This will be the first time since joining this forum I've used those 4 letters "YMMV", but I dont buy it. There must be a reason. BOSC! heh

___

To my last shave:

Right now I have a 120 grit face, not my usual 40 grit face. Pretty good for being around 45 hours later. A closer shave than I thought. I also decided that I'll be flipping the blade and using a Stirling soap again.

I'll stick to the same process through all of this I think to help me narrow things even further. Fresh blade with Captain's Choice cream, and then same blade flipped using Stirling soaps for each blade tried.

Every shave from now on will start directly ATG. I'm confident enough in my technique, it just needs refining.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Shave #9.

48 1/2 hours from last shave.

Same blade flipped.

Stirling Black Cherry.

IMG_2096.JPG


What. A. Shave!

I made my lather slightly thicker than I normally would when not starting so aggressively ATG. This soap gave up any residual slickness because of that, but not really an issue because it had so much cushion.

I started right side, mid ear and shaved towards my nose buffing lightly across and upwards. XTG/ATG in those areas both sides of my face. Once at my jawline, straight towards the points of my chin for hard ATG. Below my jawline turning slightly upwards towards my nose as I get to the sides of my mouth and chin to stay hard ATG. Once at my chin, straight up to my nose for ATG and the sides of my chin and mouth area. Buffing lightly over my jawline, neck and more so again over the bottom, points and face of my chin and upper lip.

Repeat for the left side of my face.

Wipe with a wet hand and check, BBS everywhere but my trouble spots either side of my adams apple. Lather my neck and quick strokes downwards towards my opposite chest, no buffing, wipe and check, done!

I'd be surprised if the razor was on my skin for 3 minutes total.

This soap isnt an issue. I had some very light redness over my trouble spots that I literally watched fade after I toweled off.

Remembering my directions of growth is my only handicap right now. Polsilver is easily capable of a single pass BBS shave in this razor and it does it comfortably.

Handicap on thinking of it, may not be the correct word. I think maybe I'm blessed with such a simple and smooth growth pattern.

Gillette Black/Captain's Choice will be next even though I am loving this blade, and even more so, this razor. It is astonishing in its efficiency and effectiveness.

Perhaps a better shave is in my blade box waiting, but I have my doubts.
 

Raven Koenes

My precious!
I've also found different handles give a different shave with the same razor. I'll never understand how you remember which goes with what among your razors, I never could haha. I get confused enough between the Ball End Tech handle and the New Common Bar lol.


I'm curious if you've ever used a Derby Extra in any of your Fatips or have any experience with them in any razors and if so which razor(s) and how was the shave for you?


Every shave from now on will start directly ATG. I'm confident enough in my technique, it just needs refining.
The short answer is I don't change handles. I have a thing for stock handles. I thought about putting my Gentile head on my Piccolo handle but decided against it. The reason being that my Piccolo is nickel and the Gentile is chrome. My OCD wouldn't allow for the color variation. :tongue_sm

When I first started back into DE Shaving I read so much negative press on the Derbys that I never got around to trying them. I got scared off in my BAD early on. Lately, because of you, I've been thinking I need to give them a go.

Well done on honing your one pass atg technique!
 

Raven Koenes

My precious!
Shave #9.

48 1/2 hours from last shave.

Same blade flipped.

Stirling Black Cherry.

View attachment 827945

What. A. Shave!

I made my lather slightly thicker than I normally would when not starting so aggressively ATG. This soap gave up any residual slickness because of that, but not really an issue because it had so much cushion.

I started right side, mid ear and shaved towards my nose buffing lightly across and upwards. XTG/ATG in those areas both sides of my face. Once at my jawline, straight towards the points of my chin for hard ATG. Below my jawline turning slightly upwards towards my nose as I get to the sides of my mouth and chin to stay hard ATG. Once at my chin, straight up to my nose for ATG and the sides of my chin and mouth area. Buffing lightly over my jawline, neck and more so again over the bottom, points and face of my chin and upper lip.

Repeat for the left side of my face.

Wipe with a wet hand and check, BBS everywhere but my trouble spots either side of my adams apple. Lather my neck and quick strokes downwards towards my opposite chest, no buffing, wipe and check, done!

I'd be surprised if the razor was on my skin for 3 minutes total.

This soap isnt an issue. I had some very light redness over my trouble spots that I literally watched fade after I toweled off.

Remembering my directions of growth is my only handicap right now. Polsilver is easily capable of a single pass BBS shave in this razor and it does it comfortably.

Handicap on thinking of it, may not be the correct word. I think maybe I'm blessed with such a simple and smooth growth pattern.

Gillette Black/Captain's Choice will be next even though I am loving this blade, and even more so, this razor. It is astonishing in its efficiency and effectiveness.

Perhaps a better shave is in my blade box waiting, but I have my doubts.
:thumbup: !!! I'm still a SWB (Shaving White Belt) who is taking notes. :001_smile
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
The short answer is I don't change handles. I have a thing for stock handles. I thought about putting my Gentile head on my Piccolo handle but decided against it. The reason being that my Piccolo is nickel and the Gentile is chrome. My OCD wouldn't allow for the color variation. :tongue_sm

When I first started back into DE Shaving I read so much negative press on the Derbys that I never got around to trying them. I got scared off in my BAD early on. Lately, because of you, I've been thinking I need to give them a go.

Well done on honing your one pass atg technique!

I dont change handles either, but I dont have much of a selection to choose from in the handle department. I find all my razors work fine and as they were meant to with the handles on them and thats good enough for me. If I could change anything on the Grande, the handle could be a 1/2" longer, which is why I was interested in the Retro.

Yes there is much negativity to read on Derby blades and very little positive. If they had never been in my first sample pack I likely never would have tried them either, but I'm sure glad I did. Feather on the other hand not so much.

When I first tried them I was like everyone else. Amazed at their perceived sharpness, but as my razor selection grew and my technique evolved, I find them middle of the pack really. Smooth for me on the first shave only, and I honestly find quite a few blades at least as sharp and a few sharper. I think if I was using a razor with less rigidity, the sharpness may standout a bit more, but for me in my razors, they're nothing special. For the cost and only getting a single nice shave from them, I'll never buy any again and I've been wondering what to do with the 200 I have.

I've thought about putting them on the B/S/T for trade, but I'll likely end up pif'ing them at some point.

You may surprise yourself if you pick a blade you find really sharp and smooth enough and start directly ATG. I'm finding it much easier than I had imagined. When you're only cutting the base of the hair, the razor and blade dont care how long that hair is. If it tugs, you need a sharper blade. If you find it harsh you need a smoother blade.

I've only been using a DE since April of this year, so really not very long. I did learn to shave with one and used it for 2-3 years so I might have a bit of advantage over others, and I've always used a DE with rigid design. The only exception being the NEW LC I gave to my nephew. Along with my Fathers Brit Rocket, a Brit Tech, and 50 Polsilvers his shaving world completely changed overnight.

We spoke briefly last night and hes now progressed to a 1936 Gillette Sheraton with Kai blades over his Single Ring. Gillette OLD type rigidity and exposure in an OC TTO, with even more exposure from the Kai blade. Hes searching for the Fatip shave ;)

TobyC may have been right when he said we should drop all other razors and only have Fatips.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Your shaves are amazing. I'm sure there is a line forming to watch how you do it. Gosh, I'm in line, but I need a tent if it's another 48 hours.

Yes there is much negativity to read on Derby blades and very little positive. If they had never been in my first sample pack I likely never would have tried them either, but I'm sure glad I did. Feather on the other hand not so much.

When I first tried them I was like everyone else. Amazed at their perceived sharpness, but as my razor selection grew and my technique evolved, I find them middle of the pack really. Smooth for me on the first shave only, and I honestly find quite a few blades at least as sharp and a few sharper. I think if I was using a razor with less rigidity, the sharpness may standout a bit more, but for me in my razors, they're nothing special.

Just making sure I understand you here. You still like the Derby blades? It is the Feathers you're saying are nothing special, etc? Right?

You may surprise yourself if you pick a blade you find really sharp and smooth enough and start directly ATG. I'm finding it much easier than I had imagined. When you're only cutting the base of the hair, the razor and blade don't care how long that hair is. If it tugs, you need a sharper blade. If you find it harsh you need a smoother blade.

I find this a most amazing paragraph. It's not that I don't believe you. I'm sure it is working for you. I wouldn't be shocked if it would work for me.

However, it sure isn't what most people say.

I will tell you I have done the exact same thing, or at least tried to. It just seemed right to me to go for the big win and go against the grain from the get go. As I recall - this was many decades ago, and I didn't know better - it worked sorta okay, but more experienced shavers told me it was stupid and talked me out of it.

The real problem for me was finding what ATG was. I am not sure I actually have an ATG. Some places it's easily found, but elsewhere it defies all attempts at mapping.

I've only been using a DE since April of this year, so really not very long. I did learn to shave with one and used it for 2-3 years so I might have a bit of advantage over others.

Whether my decade or so of previous experience helped or hurt is subject to question, but it changes the equation.

TobyC may have been right when he said we should drop all other razors and only have Fatips.

Another amazing statement. Two in one post.

He may be right though.

I'm not pushing a button on it, but I'm thinking of reordering a Schöne (which is a Fatip under another name with a small design variation). My first Schöne was returned defective.

The Fatip Gentile is a decent enough razor on first shave, too. Post #577 in Damn Comfortable Shave.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Your shaves are amazing. I'm sure there is a line forming to watch how you do it. Gosh, I'm in line, but I need a tent if it's another 48 hours.

Thanks! It amazes me too! Just goes to show that anything is possible with the right equipment and willingness to learn and try.

I've thought about a video showing how I shave, but you may need a well supplied group of porters and a tent if you plan on waiting for that day lol. I'm not saying I wont at some point, but certainly not before I'm confident enough in a single pass BBS shave without buffing. That will be a while.

Just making sure I understand you here. You still like the Derby blades? It is the Feathers you're saying are nothing special, etc? Right?

Correct. I could live the rest of my days and never use a Feather again and I'd be quite content. Seeing as I do have 200 of them, I will most likely use the odd one now and then just to remind myself lol.

However, it sure isn't what most people say.

I agree it is not.

However, I did a Google search last night for "one pass bbs shave" with a few results. This being the only B&B hit from 2012: Catching the elusive 1 pass BBS shave

A Google search of the phrase "one pass atg shave" gave me this B&B post again from 2012: https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/single-pass-atg-works-as-well-as-multiple-passes.284068/

There are a few threads about a one pass BBS shave on some straight razor forums, but really not a lot of info regarding this technique or how to achieve it. That does tell me that there are people interested in it, but it gets so little exposure because its not something talked about. Perhaps out of fear of...

but more experienced shavers told me it was stupid and talked me out of it.

I dont have that fear. Its not "stupid" and if someone was to tell me it was a stupid idea, they would only put a spotlight over their own ignorance. It may not be for everyone and some may never be able to because of their growth patterns. As I previously said, I've been blessed with a simple, basic growth pattern and that makes things much easier for me.

Perhaps one day I'll start another thread with similar wording in the title so it can be more easily found.

Another amazing statement. Two in one post.

GBNF!

The Fatip Gentile is a decent enough razor on first shave, too.

Thats one razor I am really interested in. I believe it will shave as effectively as my Grande, but give a milder feel because of the design of the comb. Personally, I'd wait until I became proficient enough with it and found its shortcomings, if it has any, before trying another razor from the same family.

If I finally decide that a Fatip is my ultimate razor, I'll buy the Joris I like and if its as good as the price dictates, I'll sell or pif all my others. As it stands right now, I dont even have an urge to use my others. My NEW SC and my Regent would be the only two that might remain just for a change of pace. Both are excellent shavers.
 

Raven Koenes

My precious!
I dont change handles either, but I dont have much of a selection to choose from in the handle department. I find all my razors work fine and as they were meant to with the handles on them and thats good enough for me. If I could change anything on the Grande, the handle could be a 1/2" longer, which is why I was interested in the Retro.

Yes there is much negativity to read on Derby blades and very little positive. If they had never been in my first sample pack I likely never would have tried them either, but I'm sure glad I did. Feather on the other hand not so much.


TobyC may have been right when he said we should drop all other razors and only have Fatips.

I too have a 200 count of feathers lying around. When I use them I get five shaves out of each blade. I only change a blade once a week whether it needs it or not. I don't get a lot of irritation from them when shaving with them, but after repeated use they take a cumulative toll on my skin. It is like they start shaving too much of a layer of skin off of my face. So, like you I have a bunch of blades that will not see much use.

I went on a Derby Extra hunt last night. I thought why not get a tuck or two to try. I found a deal of 100 for $8.23 US shipping included. I figured this is as cheap as getting a couple of tucks plus shipping for any other blade. At that price I won't feel bad if I don't get on with them. I'll let you know what I think.

+1 on TobyC! I wonder if he is on hiatus? Haven't seen him around much.
 
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Raven Koenes

My precious!
He may be right though.

I'm not pushing a button on it, but I'm thinking of reordering a Schöne (which is a Fatip under another name with a small design variation). My first Schöne was returned defective.

The Fatip Gentile is a decent enough razor on first shave, too. Post #577 in Damn Comfortable Shave.

Happy shaves,

Jim
TobyC has never tried a Gentile though I definitely got it on his radar. I read your first shave report on the Gentile, and it sounds about right from my first experience. It took me a week, I'm slow, to dial it in to what it is capable of. Cal seems to have brought out the best in it right off the bat, but I suspect he may be more coordinated than me. Give it time it is a stellar razor. It is also a nice switch up when you have been shaving with a Schone for awhile.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
TobyC has never tried a Gentile though I definitely got it on his radar. I read your first shave report on the Gentile, and it sounds about right from my first experience. It took me a week, I'm slow, to dial it in to what it is capable of. Cal seems to have brought out the best in it right off the bat, but I suspect he may be more coordinated than me. Give it time it is a stellar razor. It is also a nice switch up when you have been shaving with a Schone for awhile.

Well, I don't even have a Schöne. It's just on my list to buy (again), but not today.

Still, I get your point. I really like the Fatip Gentile. I haven't tried it with my favorite blade, the Blue Diamond, nor any blade except the Russian Gillette Green. I have gotten a very good first pass (for a first pass) with the Gentile, but, regardless of the number of passes, I haven't gotten a BBS neck (my face is easy to get BBS; any razor, any day).

As you said, the razor is very new to me. It deserves a complete workout.

I would love to believe I can get a one pass ATG BBS shave, but any really comfortable BBS shave would be a wonderful thing. Very elusive with my neck, I think.

I'll probably change blades and see what happens.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 

Raven Koenes

My precious!
I don't know what it is about Feathers. I get comfortable shaves with no ingrowns or razor burn, but I do notice that a cell shaped ridge pattern develops under my chin and sides of my neck when I use Feathers for awhile. It looks like this without the dots in the center of the cells but definitely that shape with grooves that look like rivers beds that form the shape. It is not ingrown bumps, and there is absolutely no irritation associated with it. Just over shaved I think. It goes back to my normal smooth skin when I use any other blade.
af8bdbf07fbfe25958176912b84604ef.jpg

As for a one pass atg shave I won't be trying it any time soon. I'm pretty prone to ingrown hairs. Perhaps, because when I was a teen I had a pretty good acne problem that lasted periodically up into my late 20's. I'm not sure, but what ever the reason if I'm not on my game I get ingrown hairs rather easily. I do enjoy your experiment though!
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
I went on a Derby Extra hunt last night. I thought why not get a tuck or two to try. I found a deal of 100 for $8.23 US shipping included. I figured this is as cheap as getting a couple of tucks plus shipping for any other blade. At that price I won't feel bad if I don't get on with them. I'll let you know what I think.

Mind telling me where you found this great deal? I might like to try them, too.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I too have a 200 count of feathers lying around. When I use them I get five shaves out of each blade. I only change a blade once a week whether it needs it or not. I don't get a lot of irritation from them when shaving with them, but after repeated use they take a cumulative toll on my skin. It is like they start shaving too much of a layer of skin off of my face. So, like you I have a bunch of blades that will not see much use.

I went on a Derby Extra hunt last night. I thought why not get a tuck or two to try. I found a deal of 100 for $8.23 US shipping included. I figured this is as cheap as getting a couple of tucks plus shipping for any other blade. At that price I won't feel bad if I don't get on with them. I'll let you know what I think.

+1 on TobyC! I wonder if he is on hiatus? Haven't seen him around much.

I remember the first Feather shave I had as they were in my first sample pack. Brit Rocket, 3 pass shave and I felt like I had a mild chemical peel over my entire face. BBS shave yes, but that feeling I had at the time I'm now putting off to the harshness of the blade, not the sharpness, but I could be wrong.

I don't know what it is about Feathers. I get comfortable shaves with no ingrowns or razor burn, but I do notice that a cell shaped ridge pattern develops under my chin and sides of my neck when I use Feathers for awhile. It looks like this

That seems very similar to my experience with a Gillette Yellow in my NEW SC. I felt it was so sharp, and the razor so rigid, that it neatly planed off the raised, well hydrated tips of the pores of my skin. Next shave it went in my SS and that redness stopped completely.

Derby Extra is I believe the least expensive blade there is, that I know of anyway. Another reason why I find the performance so surprising. I'm quite interested in what you'll think of them.

I got mine from a UK Ebay seller for $12 and change CAD, but their widely available and always inexpensive.

Derby Extra Double Edged Razor Blades (100 Blades) | eBay

TobyC's profile returns an error so I think he's either deleted his account or been banned.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Shave #10.

Around 50 hours since last shave.

Shave 10.JPG


I want to roll in this cream like a dog! LOL

dog-rolling.jpg

I'll admit I was hesitant about this blade and that showed in my first stroke. Then, I hesitated no longer...

My prior use of this blade in my NEW SC didnt go as well as I had expected first shave. My second shave with another blade was much better. It gave me a good shave, seemed sharp enough for most and barely sharp enough for me. It was nice and smooth, but I have used smoother blades.

Lather up and straight ATG I went. I changed my technique a bit this time. I shaved first my right cheek then my left from my jawline directly upwards to the top of my cheek buffing constantly. Both sides there was no tugging, but its not dense growth there so I didnt expect an issue.

I came back to my right side, bottom of my earlobe and stroked right into the corner of my chin and repeated that stroke buffing lightly, slowly shaving down onto my neck and upwards as I got closer to my chin. Slight tugging there being so directly ATG but really not bad.

Repeat left side until I got to my chin, then directly upwards buffing over my chin and up the face to my lip. Slight tugging again that got worse the closer I got to my lip. Skin sensitivity showing there, along with a lack of sharpness.

I then shaved either side of my mouth stroking straight up to my upper lip and followed along it ATG. Very slight tugging there but not bad.

Back to the right side of my neck, buffing straight up under my chin, reversed quickly and wiped lather over my trouble areas with the cap and shaved it back off.

Wipe and check and I had a very near BBS shave everywhere. I had a feeling this blade wouldnt do it directly ATG single pass, because as I said, it lacks sharpness for me. I could have been happy right there with a really nice DFS.

I lathered completely again and just did one complete ATG pass with no buffing and done for a very nice BBS shave.

Somehow in the first buffing pass I drew 5 tiny spots of blood. Two each over my trouble spots either side of my adams apple and one right corner of my mouth yet again. I think on my neck because I changed direction so abruptly and this blade lacking a bit of sharpness for me, it skipped over those most dense, quarter sized swirl areas, both sides. You could cover each pair of blood spots with a dime on either side of my adams apple. Virtually a mirror image of each other.

However, I can now see why this blade is so highly regarded by so many. Its sharp enough, its smooth enough. If I was planning on a leisurely 3 pass shave, this would be a top blade for me in this razor. With 3 full passes and no buffing I feel it would give me a fantastic shave, and probably, in less than 3 passes.

I did have some light irritation when all was said and done, but minor really. My neck is slightly warm still, but smooth, tight and pretty comfortable.

This blade I find is both slightly sharper, and slightly smoother than GSB. Slightly sharper than Gillette Green and nearly as smooth. Its a very good blade indeed and would serve most people very well.

I'm not sure I can better my results with this blade, and I dont believe Stirling soaps are any handicap at all, so up next, Gillette Yellow. After that blade, my nephew keeps asking if I've tried the Kai he sent me yet, so it's in the batters box.

Extra exposure in this razor hmmmmm. I just might like that.
 
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