My First Restore- could use some help

[neatokino]

For my first restore, I'm trying not to be too ambitious. I bought an old Rubberset brush, managed to remove the bristles, and am ready to order a knot. The handle is simple, ivory plastic (assuming it's not bakelite), and it's one I won't mind destroying if I mess everything up. Here are some photos:



I'm not exactly sure what knot size to order; the hole in the handle is, I think, just a little over 19mm-- I don't have calipers, but a penny fits pretty much exactly into the hole, and a penny is 19.05mm in diameter. Am planning on ordering a Finest or Silvertip knot from TGN. Is there any possibility a 20mm knot will fit in? If not, then will an 18mm be too loose?



If a 20mm knot wouldn't fit, I cannot easily enlarge the hole in the handle, as there is a metal ring around the opening:



What size knot do I need? Any help would be most appreciated!!!

 

[FL shaver]

I'd recommend carefully removing the ring and expanding the hole. I have used an automotive seal puller that looks like a dentist's pick to pull the ring away from the edge and out. I have also used a Dremel cutting disk to get the removal started, then grabbed the ring with needle nose pliers.

That handle looks very similar to a Stanhome I restored with a cheap black badger knot which cost $5 and change from WoodCraft. I use it a ton.

 

[FL shaver]

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/229438-Stanhome?highlight=stanhome
I'd use a nicer knot and set it lower (Finest or Silvertip or Best at 50mm or so).

 

[neatokino]

Thanks, FL shaver! I'll see if I can get that metal ring out without destroying the handle.

 

[blzrfn]

If you are timid an 18mm knot set deep (between 42 and 48mm depending on knot choice) would work as is. I would take the above advice and get that bored out to take a 20mm knot and it should be a nice looking brush. The biggest thing I have learned in my few restorations/ brush making is that slow and steady will avoid many mistakes that can come by just trying to get it done. I like to split up the work into a few sessions so that I don't start getting hasty and sloppy. Knot removal itself can take an hour or two depending on the condition of the brush. Cleaning and polishing is something to really take your time with as it is much easier to make it shine without the hair getting in the way. Finally really take your time when playing around with the loft and make sure that if you use epoxy that you are pleased with the aesthetics and feel of the knot before you make its home permanently. Have fun and make sure to update us on your progress and definitely post some pics when you're done!

 

[catherix]

+1. Get that ring out of there if its not helping the aesthetics of the handle. From there you might consider waiting for the knot to arrive before boring out the hole too much. You can then dry fit the knot here and there as you shape the hole and knot bed.

What knot are you going with? EDIT: I notice you said finest or silvertip. I haven't tried the silvertip but TGN Finest is awesome. I like the XH knots that have "X-tra Hair."

 

[neatokino]

Thanks for the tips. I DID get the metal ring out without damaging anything, so now it should easily fit a 20mm knot! Very excited about that. Am deciding between TGN Finest XH with either fan or bulb (can't decide what will look better with the handle... and have never used a fan shaped brush, so I may try that) or a silvertip. I've got another brush that I bought here on B/S/T that has TGN finest, and it is awesome, but I don't have anything in silvertip, so I may do that and use the brush primarily for creams, even though I'm mostly a cella or valobra soap guy.

One other thing to decide: there is something loose rattling around inside the bottom part of the handle. I didn't drill down through all the way, though I'm plenty deep to set the knot-- I'm wondering if I should drill it out further to get to the hollow area in the bottom and empty out whatever's rattling. That means, I'm assuming, that I'll have to rebuild the base with cork and epoxy, so I'm not sure I want to do that.... the rattling is only mildly annoying.

 

[tomcj2]

It is easier to do it now than to wait and always wonder " what causes that rattle?"

 

[gmgaj]

Or bore a small hole, and inject some epoxy in there. Tip it at an angle until it cures, and stick whatever is in there to the bottom.

 

[catherix]

I would say drill down and get whatever it is out of there. If you're anything like me it will eventually drive you loony. You could, if you don't feel like investigating too much, drill through your current knot bed and the just fill the base up with epoxy. But its worth it IMO to do a full cleanout, very carefully, and the refill/rebuild your knot bed. There's many ways to do this and you can also add some coins or BB's to the bottom of the handle for more weight. I personally prefer a bottom heavy handle over a top heavy one so this is a way to accomplish this.

 

[deezyrocks]

I'm just finishing a restore myself. My handle was rattling too so I drilled through the base and sure enough it was completely hollow. I filled the handle with epoxy to shore it up and it added a nice bit of weight. I prefer the brush with a little heft to it in the hand. I've read other people will put pennies in with the epoxy to add even more weight. Just something to think about.

 

[neatokino]

I drilled down further into the brush. It was filled with what seemed to be plaster, which I'd used the dremel to grind into a base. Had to drill a hole into the hollow section to get out the rattlers-- they were loose pieces of plaster.

Now I'm wondering if I should just keep the plaster that's in there when I fill the base of the brush with epoxy. Probably won't do any harm, and I'll need less epoxy to fill the base. I think I'll also add some pennies and/or lead shot in the base when I glue in the knot. This thing has cleaned up pretty nicely, and I'll post more pics when I get the knot and take my next steps.

 

[tomcj2]

The plaster will probably expand if it gets wet in the future and could crack the handle. I would remove it now.

 

[neatokino]

So, just, basically, hollow out the whole handle and refill it with cork/weights/epoxy? While we're on the subject, is that plaster in there? Did they just use it as a cheap filler?

 

[catherix]

So, just, basically, hollow out the whole handle and refill it with cork/weights/epoxy? While we're on the subject, is that plaster in there? Did they just use it as a cheap filler?

In short, yes. Hollow it out carefully and then fill. You may want to fill the base with something weighty and the make a nice level platform out of something for the knot to sit on.

Of that stuff is soft at all it is likely plaster, or what is often referred to as plaster. Not sure if that's what it is or not. If it gets wet at all it will get ugly. So best to get rid of it and replace it with some epoxy.

 

[neatokino]

Good thing I bought that dremel a couple months back! That plaster is soon going to be history...

 

[catherix]

Good thing I bought that dremel a couple months back! That plaster is soon going to be history...

It's a very handy tool. I've used the little wire brush like attachment in the past on the 'plaster' with good results.

 

[neatokino]

So, I ordered a 20mm silvertip from Whipped Dog Larry, filled the hollow handle of the brush with epoxy and 4 pennies, set a 48mm loft, and there you have it. Brush looks terrific (nice and simple), has substantial weight (at first I thought it might be too heavy, but it balances nicely when I lather), and does a great job. How could I not be happy? Thanks, everyone, for your help. I will definitely be restoring more.

 

[alpster]

Great work! Welcome to the B.R.A.D. (Brush Restoration Addiction Disorder).

Ronnie

 

[neatokino]

I've already got a serious case of B.R.A.D.!!!