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My first re-knotting... Oops!

I've just done my very first brush re-knotting. I didn't want to practice on an irreplaceable antique... So, my first project was to turn the VdH handle into a nice badger brush to be proud of.

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Here is the VdH handle with its new knot. It has been sanded with 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper to remove the casting line, and I sanded off and smoothed out the hard-cornered ring at the top. Next, I rubbed it with Haggerty metal polish (coarse), Noxon metal polish (medium), Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish (fine), and finally Meguiars PlastX (super fine). It wasn't as much work as it sounds, and...

This finish on this thing absolutely GLOWS now, and doesn't look or feel cheap at all (to me).

Thankfully I masked the handle prior to glueing, but I used waaay too much epoxy, and got it in the base of the hair as it oozed out. Dang it! Lesson learned.
 
Looks great. Now let the AD commence as you start buying up every used handle as you feed your need to return them all to their former glory.
 
I wouldn't worry about the epoxy. It's hard to even notice and you know the knot is not going to come loose. Nice job!
 
Beautiful job, I've done a few restores myself and found it was very easy to use excessive amounts of epoxy...with the first one I did, I ended up with the same situation...epoxy creep up the filaments and a hard plug past the end-point of the handle...mine was a write-off so you've fared well with a useable brush...the rest of my restores only got a 'dab' of epoxy, it's amazing how little you actually need to keep that knot in there!!! I figured the worst case scenario, the knot would come out and it's easy enough to dab epoxy and put it back eh?! And this was a long time ago and from the two brushes that are still in the 'family' so to speak are going strong...one of them is my uncles one and only daily driver and gets quite a work-out...the knot hasn't moved!
 
I've just done my very first brush re-knotting. I didn't want to practice on an irreplaceable antique... So, my first project was to turn the VdH handle into a nice badger brush to be proud of.

proxy.php


Here is the VdH handle with its new knot. It has been sanded with 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper to remove the casting line, and I sanded off and smoothed out the hard-cornered ring at the top. Next, I rubbed it with Haggerty metal polish (coarse), Noxon metal polish (medium), Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish (fine), and finally Meguiars PlastX (super fine). It wasn't as much work as it sounds, and...


This finish on this thing absolutely GLOWS now, and doesn't look or feel cheap at all (to me).
Thankfully I masked the handle prior to glueing, but I used waaay too much epoxy, and got it in the base of the hair as it oozed out. Dang it! Lesson learned.

So what looks good and you said it was the first time............Does it lather ok?????
 
If the epoxy is still fresh you may be able to soak the the knot and use your fingernail or like item and scrape the epoxy away from the hair somewhat easily. Its a slim shot but i have had some success.
 
I overdo the epoxy often. Just wipe the excess off and then brush the hair with a toothbrush dipped in white vinegar. Turn the knot upside down, dip the brush in a little bowl of vinegar often to rinse off the resin and stroke away from the base. The vinegar will denature the resins and solubilize them. After the epoxy has set just wash the whole thing in shaving soap to remove the vinegar and unreacted epoxy. Takes a lot of the tension out of the gluing phase.

Edited to add: I didn't make it clear that the vinegar must be used before the epoxy sets. Once it sets there is no recourse. But as the epoxy is reacting it works like a charm.
 
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It doesn't look so bad to me and you helped shorten the loft a bit.

Quick question. How did you get that arrowhead pointer into your picture ?
 
It doesn't look so bad to me and you helped shorten the loft a bit.

Quick question. How did you get that arrowhead pointer into your picture ?

Well, if you really want to know... I copied and pasted the picture into MS Word, then selected "Behind Text" * from the "Layout Menu" by double-clicking on the picture. Then I went to the "Shapes and Banners" menu and selected block arrow. Once I had the arrow properly sized and in the right place,I right-clicked on it and selected "add text." With the text highlightedI changed the color to white with the menu at the top, after which I double-clicked on the arrow and changed the color of the arrow to black. After I was satisfied, I clicked on the selection menu at the bottom (big white arrow pointing SouthEast) which allows you to highlight any series of images set to "in front of text" or "behind text" (which was the reason for the * step) Having selected both the picture and the arrow, I then right clicked and selected "copy." I then opened MS Paint, and from the "Edit" menu selected] "Paste." With the image now in MS Paint, I was able to go to the file menu and select "Save as," after which I named the file, selected "JPEG" format, and clicked "OK."

I switch between MS Word and MS Paint at work constantly while designing brochures, flyers, and ADs at work... so taking 18 steps to make an arrow appear on a picture is a perfectly normal part of the day. BTW, I also write long-winded computer procedures and directions for our staff!:001_tt2:
 
Thanks a bunch, everyone! I'm really feeling better about my work, now.

I might still get another beige VdH and do a perfect version in the future.

:w00t:Anyone know where I can get a "Simpson's" sticker?:w00t:
 
I didn't even notice the extra glue the first couple times looking at the picture....

Same here. And I was totally expecting something different as I scrolled from the knot (Yeah, that looks great, but there is a lowly VDH handle under it!), to the handle. Great outcome! Are we sure that isn't one of spindlecone's ivory creations? I'm going to have to get after my handle with some paper and polish...
 
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