Mountain Biking noob

[Vlad]

Yesterday I took my 4th swing at my local MTB trail and got my butt kicked again. I'm a fat guy on a bike that's at least 10 years out of date, and athletic 25 year olds are cruising past me on sexy 29ers. I'm not discouraged, though! On my 3rd and 4th run, I actually finished the trail, which tells me my endurance is improving. And this time I was actually on my bike a lot more than the first two times, though I still walked a number of obstacles, so my skills and confidence are also improving.

Here's my bike. I don't have the money to upgrade to a new bike, but it's ok, because currently it is embarrassed by me rather than the other way around.

 

[Wingnut]

Hey Vlad, GOOD FOR YOU!! There's no shame in being a bigger guy out on a MTB--the only shame is being big and NOT getting out there!

Despite what all those 25 year olds think, it AIN'T A RACE (and if it were, most of them would get chewed up and spit out in the first mile anyway.) Remember: there's only ONE best in any endeavor--but when you keep at it and improve, you will be guaranteed to be the best YOU can be.

Besides, all those jokers are missing all the wonderful scenery! Enjoy that bike and your rides--that's what it all about.

 

[morganjg]

Vlad,

Keep at it. It's not a race, as John stated, it's a time to enjoy yourself and reflect on the beauty you've been given. There is nothing wrong with that bike, I'd willingly hit the trails with it and not think twice. A vintage mountain bike properly tuned is a thing of beauty, and a classic hard tail like that Specialized will last longer than many of those 29ers out there. You will build the strength, endurance and skill to master those trails. Just keep pedaling.

 

[Rockminer]

Nice bike, everyone has to start somewhere. Keep at it and enjoy it for what it is, a fun way to get in shape and enjoy nature.

 

[Vlad]

Vlad,

Keep at it. It's not a race, as John stated, it's a time to enjoy yourself and reflect on the beauty you've been given. There is nothing wrong with that bike, I'd willingly hit the trails with it and not think twice. A vintage mountain bike properly tuned is a thing of beauty, and a classic hard tail like that Specialized will last longer than many of those 29ers out there. You will build the strength, endurance and skill to master those trails. Just keep pedaling.

I should mention it's got an (old) XT rear derailleur and STX front derailleur. My local bike shop hooked me up with a shorter stem, so it's easier to maneuver.

 

[Wingnut]

Nothing wrong with either of those derailleurs at all, Vlad. My one and only MTB is a 1980's steel unsprung Univega with Deore XT throughout, and it's done just fine for the last 30 or so years!

 

[Sir Lurkalot]

The Rockhopper is a very versatile MTB platform. There is no shame in that bike. That particular Specialized has won many races. Keep at it. You will improve. I had a Raleigh M800 from 1999 and it took me all over the mountains of Colorado and I used it here in Texas. It had become a very tired steed however and it was replaced with a Giant.


a "sexy" 29er as you called it!

 

[Vlad]

Nothing wrong with either of those derailleurs at all, Vlad. My one and only MTB is a 1980's steel unsprung Univega with Deore XT throughout, and it's done just fine for the last 30 or so years!

That's hard-core!

The Rockhopper is a very versatile MTB platform. There is no shame in that bike. That particular Specialized has won many races. Keep at it. You will improve. I had a Raleigh M800 from 1999 and it took me all over the mountains of Colorado and I used it here in Texas. It had become a very tired steed however and it was replaced with a Giant.


a "sexy" 29er as you called it!

Nice. That's definitely too pretty for me, I couldn't bear to get a bike like that dirty, or crash with it as often as I do.

 

[ChefJohnBoy-ardee]

a MTB without scratches is just posing Get out there, take comfortable chances, get dirty but stay safe. I have a Trek 4500 from 2003 that still keeps on ticking. Old components, 27" tires and all!

 

[RondeB]

Keep it going! My specialized FSR XC is 7 years old now. I've dumped some $$ into it for repairs but it still chews up the miles. I plan on upgrading at some point. The only reason to do it though is because I want to, not because I need to. Enjoy the trails!

 

[brucered]

Good show Vlad...

the Rockhopper as you have it decked out, is a great bike. I started out on a Rockhopper way back and then upgraded to other bikes along the way. Those bikes are very well built and can do anything the new bikes can do, no need to upgrade unless you really want to make a big change to a new frame or Hydraulic Breaks (which are very sweet by the way)

i used to ride MTB a lot, race a few times, cycle clubs, go on trips to the Rockies and watch and run the pro courses, it's was a blast. Then I got married, house, kids etc so put it off for a few years.

i sold of my beloved Kona Kula with Spynergy rims and all decked out a few years ago and picked up a sweet commuter and now ride to work on a semi regular basis. Keeping my same diet and getting on a bike a few days a week, say 700-1000k a year, I can shed 10-20 lbs of winter weight with ease.

biking is a ton of fun and cheap once you have the bike. It's a great way to start the day, no rush hour, no horns, no radio. I'm lucky to live in a city that allows me to ride paths and go thru a park the majority of the way so get to see some nice views in the summer if you know what I mean.

id love to get back int MTB, but my family is too young right now and I don't want to spend time out on the trails.

here is a shot of my bike, an MEC Hold Steady...what I like most is the 8 gear internal hub, so no shifting chains, mis gearing and I can change gears on a stand still and start off in whatever gear so like. while I can't hit up the single track and go full out MTBing, I do hit the dirt trails on the way home for a bit of fun.

My biggest piece of advise for any cyclist (I see you do Vlad) is get some CLIPLESS PEDALS and proper Cycling Shoes. it makes a world of difference and is the single biggest upgrade you can do to any bike.

Live to Ride. Ride to Live.

 

[Wingnut]

That's hard-core

Well, an unsprung bike means SOME part of my anatomy needs to be hard. ...Just not sure it's my core!


Seriously, I grew up on steel and no suspension. Whenever I hear somebody talking about "needing" suspension (especially here in the East), all I can think is "Hey, that's why you've got knees and elbows--just use 'em!"

 

[ReAndyMator]

As others have said - nothing wrong with a rockhopper.

My Trek's 20 years old, must have 15,000 miles on it, but keeps on going. Although my daughter's nicked it now....

 

[fast14riot]

Dude, seriously capable bike, no need to "up grade" from that. Besides, 8 speed is my prefered system due to the wider chain and mud/dirt shedding ability of the cassette. I no longer have any geared mtb's, I ride a "mechanics special" single speed mtb I built. I just recently switched from an aluminum frame back to steel because I prefer how it handles. My bike, perfectly yuned and perfectly fit will ride faster and handle better than some kid with an off th shelf bike and an energy drink.

I say forget the idea of a new bike and consider upgrading components on your bike. Shifters, brakes, wheels, fork, in that order. I like the XTR V-brakes for power and modulation. Also, consider upgrading the cable housing if you do the brakes and shifters, th Nokon link housing makes a huge dfference in shifting. Tuning the bike your comfortable on is the best option.

Now get out there and ride!

Btw, I remember watching this guy in his 50's riding a fully rigid steel frame with toe cages and cut-off jean shorts destroy the sportsman-pro class a few years back, nothing beats experience and knowing how to ride. He finished over a minute ahead of the next guy!



-Xander

 

[fast14riot]

Double tap

 

[Vlad]

Dude, seriously capable bike, no need to "up grade" from that. Besides, 8 speed is my prefered system due to the wider chain and mud/dirt shedding ability of the cassette. I no longer have any geared mtb's, I ride a "mechanics special" single speed mtb I built. I just recently switched from an aluminum frame back to steel because I prefer how it handles. My bike, perfectly yuned and perfectly fit will ride faster and handle better than some kid with an off th shelf bike and an energy drink.

I say forget the idea of a new bike and consider upgrading components on your bike. Shifters, brakes, wheels, fork, in that order. I like the XTR V-brakes for power and modulation. Also, consider upgrading the cable housing if you do the brakes and shifters, th Nokon link housing makes a huge dfference in shifting. Tuning the bike your comfortable on is the best option.

Now get out there and ride!

Btw, I remember watching this guy in his 50's riding a fully rigid steel frame with toe cages and cut-off jean shorts destroy the sportsman-pro class a few years back, nothing beats experience and knowing how to ride. He finished over a minute ahead of the next guy!



-Xander

The only thing I feel I'm missing right now is some more powerful brakes. I like having one finger on the lever, but I really need two...I feel like I lack control over the bike when I use the second finger.

 

[paco664]

great for you Vlad.... keep it up....

i am 44 and ride a single speed 29er... i was full rigid but i put a suspension fork when my elbows started hurting.....

don't worry about getting passed...

 

[fast14riot]

The only thing I feel I'm missing right now is some more powerful brakes. I like having one finger on the lever, but I really need two...I feel like I lack control over the bike when I use the second finger.

Ok, a couple of things to go over on your existing bakes before just buying new ones. First off, one finger on older style levers puts the force very close to the fulcrum point of the lever giving you less advantage. Shorty levers are designed for one or two finger control and place the comfortabl rip area further from the fulcrum, maintaining power.

Things to check, your brake cable housing. If it is in poor shape and missing ferrules on the ends it will rob power. Poor leads of the cable housing or kinks, will rob power, the leads on your bike look good. Bake pads adjusted properly. If you have the long pads (looks like it, but can't tell) and they are toe'd out too much your flexing the pad rather than applying more pressure. Same goes for all directions the pad can move in. Make sure the brake pads are clean, not dried out and hard, and the rim is clean as well. Take an emory board or coarse sandpaper to the pad if they have hardened, use alcohol to clean the rim and pads, a scotch brite pad works well on the rim.

If your brakes need an upgrade: check the brake arms, if they flex under normal breaking pressure, that robs power. If the levers flex, it robs power. If the frame flexes, it robs power. Frame flex (rear brake) is much more common than most people think, look into a brake booster (looks like a horse shoe) they really improve braking power in the rear. Fork flex is less common and generally not a good sign at all. I have a custom made brake booster I use on my SS MTB.

I suggest you look into moving your brake levers in towards the stem so you use the one finger further from the fulcrum, and lube your cables. Then go over the whole system looking at the points I outlined above before upgrading.


-Xander

 

[Vlad]

I suggest you look into moving your brake levers in towards the stem so you use the one finger further from the fulcrum, and lube your cables. Then go over the whole system looking at the points I outlined above before upgrading.


-Xander

Why did I not think of this? How obvious. It might be worth taking the brakes apart, cleaning them up, and putting them back together tight. Great tips!

 

[fast14riot]

Just don't clamp them real tight to the bar, leave them loose enough that a medium hit with your fist will move them. This will save you from buying new lever from a simple crash, they will just rotate around the bar. I do the same for my trigger shifters. Fyi, I mount my brake levers 3/4" from the end of the grips on single speed and a little further in on geared bikes.


-X