More Razor Burn and a Question about Shaving Schedules

[susseddm]

I have been shaving with a DE for about a month or so now. I made some progress once I understood the angle and pressure technique a bit better. My preferred shave passes are now one N-S, one cross ways and the third is (as much as I try) a gentle against the grain (my shaves must be smooth for me to be happy).

This morning I shaved after a day off and I have pretty wicked burn right now.

It's frustrating because I just don't know why I keep getting razor burn (granted, I do have sensitive skin). My barber suggested pulling the skin tight before each pass, which I tried this morning, although I wasn't doing a very good job. He claims that is the key.

Before switching to a DE I had the best, smoothest shaves with a Mach 3. However, before you ask why I switched, I should state that I only shaved every third day (ex. Monday, Thursday, Sunday, Wednesday, Saturday, etc.) using the Mach 3 and Air Shave gel from Tend Skin (that stuff always stayed wet!). Shaving everyday is something I tried, but cut, in-grown hairs and burns were so bad that I had to stop (every second day was possible, but it still wasn't pretty). Luckily my work didn't require clean daily shaves.

After reading so much literature on wet-shaving, I thought - possibly - the DE was the answer to my desire to have clean, daily (or even every other day) shaves. Currently, I am using a Murkur HD and Murkur blades (I just ordered a sample pack), Taylor of old Bond/Proraso shaving creams and, now, Trumper Skin Food - although, I had to use some Tend Skin (despite the alcohol) to calm the razor burn this morning.

I am pretty much at a loss right now. I can't seem to understand why I get razor burn after all my practice and research. The only other thing I can think of is perhaps I need to have a more consistent shaving schedule (i.e. everyday or every second day). Or, perhaps skip the against the grain and simply shave but not completely smooth.

So I ask: What are your shaving schedules like? Do most shave everyday? I am wondering if I am trying to shave off too much hair by shaving every 2nd or 3rd day.

Or maybe I have to try a few more different blades? Maybe the Murkur's are just not for me. My sister bought me no-name brands from Target that, while not as sharp, were a bit more forgiving.

After two passes, I am still almost burn free, but my face is still not that smooth. I am the point now, where if I do that 3rd pass, it's wicked burn and no stubble. If I stick with the 2 passes, it looks like 5 o'clock shadow with not much burn.

I hold my razor in the tips of my fingers so that I go lightly. Perhaps I am still pressing too hard or maybe I am going to quickly (I go slow enough that by the time of my last few strokes my shaving cream is no longer moist).

If anyone has any suggestions, I would really appreciate hearing some. For now, I will stick with it and hopefully things will get better. I have improved over my first few horror shaves, so, who knows, myabe a couple more months of pain will straighten me out!

Yours,

A Face on Fire

 

[tim8557]

If you are used to shaving every third day, why are you so concerned with getting a real smooth shave now? Maybe you try the DE on the every 3rd day routine and stop at 2 passes.

After a couple of weeks, switch to every other day but stopping after 2 passes. After a couple of weeks, up it to 3 passes. Try a different blade. I like Feathers and find that they do not live up to their fearsome reputation here. Just go easy and slowly. I must say that I am totally underwhelmed by Merkur's as they just do not work well for me. I also get great shaves with the Israili Personnas but 2 shaves max then I throw away.

I find that 2 passes is generally good for me with a 3rd pass hitting trouble spots; principally a few spots on the neck and just under the the jawline. At no time do I ever increase pressure. The 3rd pass for me is generally "spot specific touch-up".

 

[susseddm]

If you are used to shaving every third day, why are you so concerned with getting a real smooth shave now?


I have always wanted smooth, daily shaves but my face could never take it. I have had a couple of very good shaves with the DE shaving every 3rd day. But shaving every 3rd days is not good enough. The second day of no shaving just doesn't look good - I look like a beast!

I do every 3rd day shaves as a matter of survival, not preference.

I just hoped the DE would be the solution, that's all.

Thanks for your quick post!

 

[vespergo]

most of us shave everyday. the majority skip one day a week. though there are some (myself included) that shave 7 days a week and rarely skip. i do think that the skin gets used to this after a while, but to me it sounds like you're using too much pressure if you're getting alot of razor burn after a three pass shave. lighten up on the grip.

 

[susseddm]

Well, it did take me a while to get the message through to my hands about pressure. My first shave was an absolute blood bath. Since then, I only get small knicks. Maybe I just need to go even lighter to stop the burn and shave regularly.

However, I have had a straight blade shave with an experienced barber. I went to the very best in my city and the shave was exceptional. But, even then he still cut me once, along with a nick. So, I know I have senstive skin and will just have to me more careful I suppose.

 

[susseddm]

Also, what does everyone here use for razor burn (if they even get it!)? I've been using Tend Skin (http://www.tendskin.com/) for years; it works, but it's not always pleasant and it certain doesn't smell very nice. I've been recommended Min New York Solution 2 (https://www.min.com/ProductDescription.asp?idProduct=82), I just haven't had a chance of trying it out.

Hours later and my razor burn has still not calmed down...

 

[tim8557]

Assuming that you are in the States, PM me your name and mailing address and I'll send you a block of alum to try. If you read enough threads, you'll find that many use it right after shaving and rinsing the lather. It is mildly antiseptic and feels cooling. It also is an astringent. I just don't have much use for it (I guess at age 59 I have a pretty thick hide.).

It's yours as a freebie if you'd like. I'll pay the postage.

We need to get that skin of yours toughened up a bit.

Remember, let the weight of the razor accomplish all. Pressure is NOT your frie3nd when it comes to DE shaving.

Good luck.

 

[mlebarron]

The only real advice I have is to keep going. Follow the advice that others have already given in this thread and just have patience. I had bad irritation for awhile, and then it went away, but I kept getting it on my neck when I went against the grain. Eventually I just said... screw it, I'm doing it. Then my skin seemed to get used to the against the grain and the irritation went away.

 

[BroJohn]

...and I have pretty wicked burn right now.

It's frustrating because I just don't know why I keep getting razor burn ...

These issues arise from some pretty common causes; in order: 1. too much pressure. 2. improper blade angle. 3. overshaving an area. 4. using a blade past it's prime.

Understand, there can be other causes, but I'll bet you that you're suffering from one or more of the above four. You just need to mentally review what you're doing and adjust if you are aware of transgressions of the above four. Make sure that your shaving strokes are unhurried and deliberate.

You'll do fine. Hang in there.

-- John Gehman

 

[catatonic]

Here's my regimen:

daily:

wash face clean of all oils, splash with hot water, then apply lather

1 n-s pass, 1 s-n pass, 1 e-w pass (left side of neck is w-e on bottom half due to grain variance)

shower

after shower, apply skin tonic, and aftershave of the day.

the reason I shave before the shower is that the shower helps clean up any cuts that may occur, and I found the bathroom is too humid and foggy to shave afterwards....so I do it before.

Some things you should consider:

Blades: try out that LetterK blade sampler you ordered, find the one that works for you. I found out that Feathers are the best for my beard, with Derby at second. For you , you may find some other blades that will give you the best shave.

Lather: is the lather right? I found out after a few months that my lather was actually too dry. Once I go0t that striaghtened out, the quality of my shaves went up trmendously. Different creams require different amounts of water to make the right lather....that's why you should stick with one cream until you are familiar with how it should be.

Finally.....frequency. Since you don't shave often, don't....at least not yet. Just shave like you did with a Mach3, but with a DE....get used to the way it feels. Then increase the frequency of shaves, or just the number of passes per shave, then eventually go for the daily BBS. Just jumping into it can be pretty painful if your skin is not used to it.

 

[susseddm]

This is great advice, thanks! About the lather: I think you are on to something here. I probably should have a wetter brush with Proraso, it seems to dry out quicker.

And your passes that you posted: are they in that order? E-W AFTER S-N?

As for shaving frequency, I am now convinced I should go back to every 3rd day until my face settles down and work on skill. I think I jumped the gun a bit.

Thanks again everyone for the advice, it's greatly appreciated!

 

[Scorpio]

and try another blade!! if you try the feathers with the pressure you are using right now...not good. Very little pressure, for some folks the skin takes a bit longer to get use to the new way of shaving. Change one factor at a time until you can pin point the cause of the irritation. New blades and less pressure should help.

Raf

 

[susseddm]

I've been thinking that I should just go back to my old routine, but with the DE. Tell me what you think of my old routine:

My first pass was N-S from ear to jaw line, mouth to chin and a S-N pass from neck to jaw line (this is all on a first pass). I would then re-lather and do one last pass, going S-N from jaw line to ear, chin to mouth. The neck would only get that one pass, the S-N, and no more.

And that's it. I would do that every 3rd day and I had consistent, great shaves.

I think I might give it a try and report back. Hopefully I won't mangle myself. I've heard so many people tell me N-S completely on a first pass.

 

[Amyn]

Here are a couple of ideas
1. Try different blades Merkurs may not be the best for your face. I would order letterk sampler pack and test them all out. Derbys and IPs are the safest bet. This may help alleviate the burn

2. Of course minimize amount of pressure

3. Keep practicing your technique and learn contours of your face. It gets better with time

4. I shave every day now that I have discovered Wet shaving. Prevents the hair from growing too much. The shaves are more pleasant, BBS almost everyday and no burn.

 

[Dansk]

Your problems with shaving sound exactly the same as mine. I've never been able to completely eliminate them, but I have improved my shaving drastically. I found that the Merkur blades simply don't work for me. Try a Derby, they're probably what you're looking for. They're the least agressive blade in a Merkur HD, and the only blade I've been able to get a nick-free shave with. I don't think I'll ever be able to shave every day, I just don't think it's possible with my skin.

 

[catatonic]

This is great advice, thanks! About the lather: I think you are on to something here. I probably should have a wetter brush with Proraso, it seems to dry out quicker.

And your passes that you posted: are they in that order? E-W AFTER S-N?

As for shaving frequency, I am now convinced I should go back to every 3rd day until my face settles down and work on skill. I think I jumped the gun a bit.

Thanks again everyone for the advice, it's greatly appreciated!

Yep, I go E-W after S-N....reason for that is my face's particular geography. This removes the bulk of the hair on the first two passes, and the third pass is primarily just to grab those odd hairs that are off at angles. I also use a slightly odd razor positioning when doing the neck during this pass (I angle the blade, so it does a slicing motion, although at a far milder angle than a slant-bar).

Thing is, there is no textbook for every person's face, nor one for any person's face....unless that person has written it themself. What we are doing is not just shaving, but learning our faces contours and grain as well.

 

[doctorsimon]

Firstly, welcome to B&B and to the great world of DE shaving. Hope you find help here, this place certainly taught me a few things.

I fear you have rushed into things. You should probably return to shaving every three days and start with one pass only. Don't aim for BBS (Baby Butt Smooth) for now. I've been here since September, and have been DE shaving since about April/May and I don't get BBS, I don't go ATG (against the grain), and I skip days frequently.

I am only just recovered from my last attempt to get BBS by going ATG. That was around December 10th. I have a few ingrowing hairs still refusing to DIE (that was emphasis not abbreviation!)

Do try some other blades when the Merkur blades run out. I like the Merkurs a lot but have more experience with the Derby's (cheap, forgiving) and Feathers (excellent but need a little care). I wouldn't label the Feather as something to avoid.

I believe we should all change blade frequently, either because it isn't performing well, is getting old and dirty, or just getting blunt. I change blade every 1-5 shaves, sometimes just because I want the sharpest blade possible -- a new one. Tomorrow I will dispose of a two day old feather just because I fear there is a little too much crud on it from yesterday's shave and don't want to use a dirty razor.

But I really fear you are trying too hard to get BBS. Some folk here say they get BBS daily, but they either have a less strict definition of BBS or damn tough skin. Men get hairy faces, let the hair show your manliness. I'd rather have healthy skin and some facial hair, than angry skin and no hair showing.

 

[catatonic]

There's a trick to getting daily BBS shaves....it's a mixture of proper pressure, proper blade, proper lubrication, and most importantly, knowing exactly how to get off the most hair with the least number of passes.

Every pass with that blade, and every minute amount of pressure, is bringing the skin just that much closer to razor burn. So if you want it everyday, you need to make every pass count.

Figuring out how to do that will take time...I'm still learning on how to get rid of two fine lines of stubborn hair on my neck. That area gets slightly irritated when shaving it, but has been steadily getting better as my skills improve.

 

[susseddm]

In theory I think I agree with everything that has been written in this thread thus far. Everyone has been very helpful and supportive. And it all makes theoretical sense. However, I think, in practice at least, we all differ. No two snow flakes and all that cal....

Anyway, with the help of Tend Skin (and no, I don't work for them or anything), my face has bounced back and my confidence will slowly be restored. I will continue to experiment and change things up once my variety blade package arrives.

I really agree with the last post. I have never, in my life, done 3 or 4 passes. So why am I doing so now? I think I read so much in preparation I forgot what worked for me in the past. I am pushing 30 and have been shaving for a while. Just because I switched to a DE doesn't mean everything I did before was wrong.

I used to make one pass only on my neck, against the grain, slowly and carefully, and it was usually top-notch. I think I will try this approach again Wednesday night (want to give myself an extra day to re-heal).

I had such trouble with angle at first, I'm just glad I am cutting any hair at all! So, maybe that needs some minor adjustments for certain areas. And maintaining proper pressure through out the shave is a real challenge. I think if I minimize my strokes, things will work much better. Mantic mentioned to think about "reducing" the amount of hair with each pass. But, with my sensitive skin, maybe it's better if I simply minimize the number of total strokes and, as the last post said, make each one count.

And, so, I shall proceed.....

 

[rikrdo]

all good advice......
When I really chop it up, a day off helps tremendously.
NO ATG PASSES until properly healed....(that time will vary).
Usually a WTG and a XTG pass will give me a pretty good shave.
BBS, for me, is the exception...not the norm.