Merkur Progress won’t hold adjustment

[Gun Nerd]

I’ve had my Progress for a few years and love it except that from Day 1, the adjustment knob won’t stay put.

I have a moderately heavy beard and shave every day. I usually shave on 2, or on 1 either for a second pass or to give my face a break on a day off. I’ve only gone to 3 a couple of times after being sick or something. I typically hold the razor right at the end of the handle. I like the way the Progress’s weight does the work with Feather blades.

At first, the adjustment knob would slip just a little from my fingers touching it, especially when I turn the razor to use the other edge. Over time, it seemed to tighten up. But in the last couple of months, it seems to have loosened up a lot. If I crank it down to 1, it’s tight. But on 2, it slips constantly.

Any advice for a fix? Or if it’s a design flaw, any recommendations for a razor with similar weight and balance but with adjustments that stay put?

 

[Iridian]

The Progress shouldn't do that. It is defective, no idea how to fix that mechanism.

Options:
Buying another one, they are not overly expensive
Yaqi Final Cut, adjustable razor based on the Gibbs design that also the Rex Ambassador uses (the cheaper option)
Merkur Futur or Futur clone from China, more aggressive in general compared to the Progress.

 

[StewB]

To add to the list of potential replacements: The Parker Variant, which is pretty much a copy of the long handle Progress. (Disclaimer: I have never used a Progress but I do like the Variant)

 

[tomas1870]

I don't know if it is real but online are many very good reviews of Merkur company support. They even send replacement parts worldwide. I would write and ask directly to Germany. Some people said they received it also for free. Nothing to lose if just ask. Company is very old good established and Germany what was always for me same as trustworthy and good quality.

 

[Invicta]

At first, the adjustment knob would slip just a little from my fingers touching it, especially when I turn the razor to use the other edge. Over time, it seemed to tighten up. But in the last couple of months, it seems to have loosened up a lot. If I crank it down to 1, it’s tight. But on 2, it slips constantly.

It sounds like the threads are worn or corroded, if I am reading your post correctly. The adjustment cannot slip as it changes on turning the adjustment knob. You may get away with just a new cap but check the threads; a photo of the cap threading would be helpful.

 

[Gun Nerd]

The threads look fine.

After disassembling it a couple of times, my attempt at a fix is to pry the friction ring open a little and slide some strips of thin plastic under it. We’ll see how long that lasts.

What it really needs is a click detent. Does the Variant have that?

 

[cpcohen1945]

I have two thoughts on what's wrong:

There's no dedicated "friction mechanism" in a Progress. What holds the knob fixed in position, is the force on the top-cap's threads, needed to bend the blade in the head.

So I have two suspicions (one or both could be happening):

(a) You have the top-cap on the razor in the opposite orientation that it's supposed to be in. The mark on the side of the top-cap should be on the same side as the mark on the side of the baseplate.

(b) You are twisting the knob until the blade _starts_ to bend, and friction develops. On my Progress, it will turn (and _should_ be turned) another 2 1/2 turns, _until the blade bottoms-out_. At that level, there's plenty of friction to hold the knob steady. If the top-cap is oriented correctly, and the razor when the blade bottoms-out, the dot on the handle should match "1" on the knob.

And -- lest you say that _my_ threads might have lots of friction, and yours don't -- my threads are covered in Vaseline, to avoid corrosion.

There is one trick with a Progress (for sure with the "old molds", maybe with the "new molds"):

. . . As you start to tighten the knob, look down from the top of the razor,
. . . . and make sure that the scalloped bars have the same exposure, on both edges.

If they don't, you'll have one edge with "mild" character, and another with "aggressive" character.

Tell us what you decide, and what works . . .

 

[Gun Nerd]

I have two thoughts on what's wrong:

There's no dedicated "friction mechanism" in a Progress. What holds the knob fixed in position, is the force on the top-cap's threads, needed to bend the blade in the head.

So I have two suspicions (one or both could be happening):

(a) You have the top-cap on the razor in the opposite orientation that it's supposed to be in. The mark on the side of the top-cap should be on the same side as the mark on the side of the baseplate.

(b) You are twisting the knob until the blade _starts_ to bend, and friction develops. On my Progress, it will turn (and _should_ be turned) another 2 1/2 turns, _until the blade bottoms-out_. At that level, there's plenty of friction to hold the knob steady. If the top-cap is oriented correctly, and the razor when the blade bottoms-out, the dot on the handle should match "1" on the knob.

And -- lest you say that _my_ threads might have lots of friction, and yours don't -- my threads are covered in Vaseline, to avoid corrosion.

There is one trick with a Progress (for sure with the "old molds", maybe with the "new molds"):

. . . As you start to tighten the knob, look down from the top of the razor,
. . . . and make sure that the scalloped bars have the same exposure, on both edges.

If they don't, you'll have one edge with "mild" character, and another with "aggressive" character.

Tell us what you decide, and what works . . .

I’ve always lined up the marks correctly.

The adjustment knob stays tight when it’s bottomed out. That used to be at a little less than 1. But if I loosened it to 2, it might or might not stay put.

With the shims I added today, the knob bottoms out exactly at 1. I’ll know soon if it holds its adjustments at higher settings.

 

[cpcohen1945]

OK -- if the knob isn't reasonably tight for one full turn looser than "bottomed-out", I'll switch to the "faulty razor" camp.

If the threaded rod on the top-cap is the wrong length, or the threading is the wrong length, you could get the behavior you describe. I really like the Progress, IMHO it'll be worth getting it fixed, one way or another.

 

[Gun Nerd]

OK -- if the knob isn't reasonably tight for one full turn looser than "bottomed-out", I'll switch to the "faulty razor" camp.

If the threaded rod on the top-cap is the wrong length, or the threading is the wrong length, you could get the behavior you describe. I really like the Progress, IMHO it'll be worth getting it fixed, one way or another.

Interesting, thanks. I could try cutting the rod a little. It definitely has enough thread.

If that doesn’t work, it’s not like it’s irreplaceable or I’m even wedded to an adjustable. I also like my 34C but it’s not as aggressive. With the Progress set on 2 I can get an acceptable everyday shave in one pass.