What's new

Made my first strop

Hello all.

Today I used Pete's leather and made my first strop. I have posted about Pete before. He's a saddlemaker here on the big island of hawaii.

I cut it down to 2 3/4 by 24 inches. It is very thick leather, a quarter inch.

It's so thick that I took a piece of another thinner leather as the foldover to hold the D ring. I had a thin strop that i had sliced with the razor so I sacrificed four inches of that.

The D ring was 2 1/2 inches across, slightly smaller than the strop leather. But I like 2 3/4 inches on my strop, and I can't find D rings larger than 2 1/2. So I just used my quarter inch punch to punch holes at each side and allow the D ring to fit just fine. It actually made everything a more snug and secure fit.

Then I punched three holes in all pieces of the leather.

The chicago screws are one quarter inch in diameter.

The female side of the chicago screw has four sharp barbs that sink into the leather and prevent it from spinning.

Although I had plenty of spare leather and spare D rings, I chose to leave the bottom bare. A barber end. The reason for this is that I like some convexity in my strops. I always slide my cupped hand down the strop once before shaving. As well as giving a slight touch of oil it maintains a very slight convexity. On store bought strops I use my grip just above the bottom hardware to maintain a slight convexity. I was never gripping the bottom hardware anyway.

I chose not to bother with a swivel. The D ring lines up on the wall hook naturally by itself and I like the simplicity of that. In fact, when I stropped with it, this system lined up better than my old strop with a swivel. The swivel just allowed the top of the strop to swivel away from the angle I was holding at the bottom ,inducing a twist. With just the D ring, that twist was gone and it turned straight to follow my hand. Much better.

The store bought strop that I sacrificed for this project, was one that I sliced. At the upper right. And it was the one with the swivel. I suspect that slice was because the swivel allowed the top half to twist away from me. At least I choose to blame the swivel, not my inattention.

I don't like swivels and I don't like bottom hardware. So that makes strop making pretty simple. Just a 2 1/2 inch d ring and three of the quarter inch chicago screws.

If I happen to slice this baby with my razor, I'll just swap the hardware to the other end and move the slice to the bottom outside.

Anyway, I stropped and shaved with it and it went well. It was flat, taught, fit my Bismark razor perfectly, and did the job just fine. A very happy morning.

Photos below. Have a look.







20181227_110422.jpg
20181227_110647.jpg
20181227_111246.jpg
20181227_111741.jpg
20181227_112721.jpg
20181227_113617.jpg
20181227_114529.jpg
20181227_114533.jpg
20181227_114539.jpg
20181227_114745.jpg
 
Nice job!
Since I live in Chicagoland, however, I will suggest that you replace the bolts and nuts with Chicago screws. That is what many stropmakers use. If you ask for "Chicago screws", however, many people will not have any idea what you are talking about. The common terminology for the item today is "binder post screws" or "binding posts and screws". They come in a variety of lengths, so it is good to have a few sizes. You can probably find them in the scrap-booking section of your local craft/hobby store. The size you require depends on the thickness of the leather and the number of layers you have to sandwich.
 
Hi RayClem.

Thanks for the tip, but those are chicago screws in the picture. The female inside threaded tube that goes through the leather and receives the male bolt.

It just looks different on the bottom of the female side as it has corners turned up into four sharp points. The sharp points dig into the leather (or the wood) to stop the tube from spinning as the bolt is tightened down into it.
 
Hi RayClem.

Thanks for the tip, but those are chicago screws in the picture. The female inside threaded tube that goes through the leather and receives the male bolt.

It just looks different on the bottom of the female side as it has corners turned up into four sharp points. The sharp points dig into the leather (or the wood) to stop the tube from spinning as the bolt is tightened down into it.

Thanks for the education. The Chicago screws (binding post screws) I have normally seen are like pan head screws. I have never seen Chicago screws with a bolt head; maybe they are called Chicago bolts.
 
I think these have a bolt head because the female side has the "digging in" spikes. You put a torque driver on the bolt head and the high torque along the threads will "pull" the female side up, burying the spikes into the leather or wood, and locking it firmly in place.

They are a bit more expensive, but I needed the spike versions to lock down floor boards on my boat. I had leftovers.
 
I think these have a bolt head because the female side has the "digging in" spikes. You put a torque driver on the bolt head and the high torque along the threads will "pull" the female side up, burying the spikes into the leather or wood, and locking it firmly in place.

They are a bit more expensive, but I needed the spike versions to lock down floor boards on my boat. I had leftovers.

Making stuff for shaving using things you have on hand is a common trait around here. You fit in perfectly.
 
Top Bottom