Knife Sharpening...
- Thread starter WetShavinSailor
- Start date
+1
I just got a Japanese ceramic rod for the metal ones and a diamond file for the ceramic ones
Funny this popped up. I just went back to Bench stones. I have the three spyderco ones, along with an atoma 400 and strops and paste. I sharped differently now, and only sharpen to the expected use level. I will strop a pocket knife to tree topping sharp since I like them, but the kitchen knives only to shaving sharp since I want a more stable edge. The last time I took them too fine they wound up with chips in the edge of some of the VG 10 ones - I blame the wife!
Lol, I blame my mother and her home helpers for chips in my knives -- I've caught Mom using my VG-10 gyuto to cut pills in half (!?) and the helpers dump all the knives in the sink and jam them into the silverware to dry.
I sharpen chef's knives and gyutos to 2 or 3k these days, and only the slicer knives get the 6k treatment. Slicing meat, raw or cooked, needs a bit of tooth I think.
We have always used stones to sharpen knives -- Pop used Arkansas stones, I use waterstones.
Very hard to keep knives properly sharp when other people use them, eh?
I sharpen chef's knives and gyutos to 2 or 3k these days, and only the slicer knives get the 6k treatment. Slicing meat, raw or cooked, needs a bit of tooth I think.
We have always used stones to sharpen knives -- Pop used Arkansas stones, I use waterstones.
Very hard to keep knives properly sharp when other people use them, eh?
kelbro
Alfred Spatchcock
I keep sacrificial knives in the drawer for 'those people'. Mine are stashed away in a less than obvious place.
My good ones are all in the knife block.
Oh wow, I'd be furious if that happened to my knives. At least you were spared from one of the worst knife-care sins, putting them in the dishwasher...*shudder*
Yes, softer forged German stainless steel that can take a beating is great for this. It's high quality enough that people will notice/appreciate the step-up in performance from the standard cheap stamped steel, hollow-ground, partial-tang mainstream department store knives...but low maintenance enough that people who won't care for/maintain knives properly can still use them and get a lot out of them.
There is something to be said for the softer steels
I just wish I could get something like CPM154 or s35vn or m390 without paying $500 for the knife.
Ron R
I survived a lathey foreman
Just got done sharpening my 4 Victorinox knifes that I try and keep away from the wife but that is a lost cause
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The Lansky system is Ok for small straight edged knifes but when I received my Lansky through Ebay after checking angles I concluded that they were drilled at mostly 25 Degrees that gives a included angle of 50 degrees that is not a great angle for the kitchen use(I modified the Lansky wooden case also). Victorinox uses a 15 degree so I had to improvise and make some jigs out of a 2X4 to capture the correct angle I needed (cut certain gauges to confirm correct angles). With the Victorinox thin spined knifes I Taylor sharpen once a week if I remember, the primary angle at 15 degrees and three swipes per side at the standard 20 degrees gives me the best results for our kitchen needs.
The large ceramic wooden holder was modified from a arm of a (baby stool?) the wife had from a garage sale that she forgot were it came from.
.The Lansky system is Ok for small straight edged knifes but when I received my Lansky through Ebay after checking angles I concluded that they were drilled at mostly 25 Degrees that gives a included angle of 50 degrees that is not a great angle for the kitchen use(I modified the Lansky wooden case also). Victorinox uses a 15 degree so I had to improvise and make some jigs out of a 2X4 to capture the correct angle I needed (cut certain gauges to confirm correct angles). With the Victorinox thin spined knifes I Taylor sharpen once a week if I remember, the primary angle at 15 degrees and three swipes per side at the standard 20 degrees gives me the best results for our kitchen needs.
The large ceramic wooden holder was modified from a arm of a (baby stool?) the wife had from a garage sale that she forgot were it came from.
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I have a 1000/6000 stone. I'm fairly new to knife sharpening. Started carrying a pocket knife about 3 years ago when I got divorced (hmm..... lol)
I was stuck at Mom's place for 2 years. I got to practice sharpening on all her kitchen knives. She had only used a cheap kitchen sharpener that you pull the knife through. Main problem was it was probably 20 years old. She's way too cheap to spend $5 on a new one.
Most of her Chicago Cutlery knives were rounded off. I didn't have money while paying for all the divorce stuff, thus didn't go out and do much so I spent many hours on her knives. Put an edge back on them with the 1000 grit.
I didn't with the kitchen knives, but any knife I sharpen, I don't just shave some hairs off my arm. I will use it for a first pass shaving just for fun. First pocket knife was a Gerber Paraframe. Spent probably 3 hours sharpening it when I bought it and it was the first time shaving my face with a pocket knife. It was fun.
I lost that knife on the GAP trail climbing up to the continental divide riding Pittsburgh to DC. The CRKT was my 2nd knife which I also spent about 3 hours sharpening. Taking my daughter with my exwife to school for a presentation on financial aid, I said, "whoops, better remove all my weapons" and left it in the door of her car. Forgot about it and it's never been found.
3rd knife that I shaved with is my Mora Companion fixed blade bushcraft knife. That was straight out of the box though. Just got it in the summer and I have yet to sharpen it. It was razor sharp out of the package.
I would like to get a 400 grit stone to make it a LOT easier to redo the edge. I don't think I could do it with the 1000 grit. I did it with the kitchen knives, but the edge wasn't really bad.
I was stuck at Mom's place for 2 years. I got to practice sharpening on all her kitchen knives. She had only used a cheap kitchen sharpener that you pull the knife through. Main problem was it was probably 20 years old. She's way too cheap to spend $5 on a new one.
Most of her Chicago Cutlery knives were rounded off. I didn't have money while paying for all the divorce stuff, thus didn't go out and do much so I spent many hours on her knives. Put an edge back on them with the 1000 grit.
I didn't with the kitchen knives, but any knife I sharpen, I don't just shave some hairs off my arm. I will use it for a first pass shaving just for fun. First pocket knife was a Gerber Paraframe. Spent probably 3 hours sharpening it when I bought it and it was the first time shaving my face with a pocket knife. It was fun.
I lost that knife on the GAP trail climbing up to the continental divide riding Pittsburgh to DC. The CRKT was my 2nd knife which I also spent about 3 hours sharpening. Taking my daughter with my exwife to school for a presentation on financial aid, I said, "whoops, better remove all my weapons" and left it in the door of her car. Forgot about it and it's never been found.
3rd knife that I shaved with is my Mora Companion fixed blade bushcraft knife. That was straight out of the box though. Just got it in the summer and I have yet to sharpen it. It was razor sharp out of the package.
I would like to get a 400 grit stone to make it a LOT easier to redo the edge. I don't think I could do it with the 1000 grit. I did it with the kitchen knives, but the edge wasn't really bad.
My main stone is a King 1k/6k combo that I've been using for years - also to set bevels on straights. I think for general maintenance it's a fine stone, though a 400 stone would come in handy for more "restoration" type work (or for field knives).
I do wish grit was consistent across stones and brands, but it's not. So, here is a nice spreadsheet with translations into microns, for your sharpening pleasure
GRITCHART
GRITCHART
The Lansky system would do for delicate kitchen knives, or the Wen 4270 if you’re to handle larger knives - I saw it reviewed on Healthy Kitchen 101 the other day and I’m convinced it hand can handle heavy duty, but you’ll have to buy quite a few more dressing stones.
I keep the Sharpmakee out for regular sharpening and touch ups, added the diamond Rods for when I have to reprofile. This works on all of my regular knives.
With Japanese convex Hitachi carbon steel knives, I use Shapton 1000 water stone and finish with 6000 stone.
ALL knives are then finished using the inside, soft leather of an old belt to get a really fine, sharp finish. Sharpening process goes smoothly, keeping the blades sharp all the time takes no time at all.
With Japanese convex Hitachi carbon steel knives, I use Shapton 1000 water stone and finish with 6000 stone.
ALL knives are then finished using the inside, soft leather of an old belt to get a really fine, sharp finish. Sharpening process goes smoothly, keeping the blades sharp all the time takes no time at all.
Google: "knife sharpening service near me." Trust me, it's a time saver and worth the money. Usually once every 12 to 18 months.
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