Knife Sharpening Thread

[JPO]

I've never had an Atoma 1200 tbh, only 140 and 400. And I wouldn't put a knife on them (a second time ), just because of how they chew up steel. Though a 1200 is obviously going to be quite different, and there's no reason it shouldn't work grand.

I know someone who's a very highly respected knifemaker and sharpener, who now does all of his sharpening on two slightly worn, cheap Chinese diamond plates (he doesn't know the 'grit') followed by a SG4k... so you're not in bad company!

I would never put any knife on my atoma 400 again, but the 1200 works surprisingly well. I think the trick is just to not overdue it. In principle you are removing the same amount of steel, just at a faster rate.

For thinning knifes a traditional stone like the GS 500 is probably the way to go.

 

[Dnallehekaj]

I'm sold on the SG500, Shapton should pay you if you keep this up

 

[ChefJohnBoy-ardee]

As my 10 year old Naniwa 400 is now about 3/8" thick and seems to be dishing quicker, the GS500 sounds like a good replacement and will pair with the GS1,4 and 8k stones... Definite food for thought as a new golf and wedding season is about to start and I said I would sharpen the 2 dozen knives in my knife roll 4 months ago.

Really all but the meat knives just need a touch up. The suji, yani, deba and boning knife went through an unknown tonnage of salmon, halibut, filet of beef and Strip loins last season. I think I touched them up twice through last season... Crazy how there is salmon sharp and filet sharp...

Now to stay late one night and do it. Once someone sees stones on a table, the number of knives double. Lazy buggers!

 

[Legion]

As my 10 year old Naniwa 400 is now about 3/8" thick and seems to be dishing quicker, the GS500 sounds like a good replacement and will pair with the GS1,4 and 8k stones... Definite food for thought as a new golf and wedding season is about to start and I said I would sharpen the 2 dozen knives in my knife roll 4 months ago.

Really all but the meat knives just need a touch up. The suji, yani, deba and boning knife went through an unknown tonnage of salmon, halibut, filet of beef and Strip loins last season. I think I touched them up twice through last season... Crazy how there is salmon sharp and filet sharp...

Now to stay late one night and do it. Once someone sees stones on a table, the number of knives double. Lazy buggers!

You need to start a dating agency, where people who cook for a living can meet people who hone for fun.

 

[ChefJohnBoy-ardee]

You need to start a dating agency, where people who cook for a living can meet people who hone for fun.

I may do one for them if they've been putting the work in. More than that costs them. If i wasn't salaried I would stay on the clock with the boss' permission and not charge them but pipe tobacco and cigars won't pay for themselves!

 

[cotedupy]

As my 10 year old Naniwa 400 is now about 3/8" thick and seems to be dishing quicker, the GS500 sounds like a good replacement and will pair with the GS1,4 and 8k stones... Definite food for thought as a new golf and wedding season is about to start and I said I would sharpen the 2 dozen knives in my knife roll 4 months ago.

Really all but the meat knives just need a touch up. The suji, yani, deba and boning knife went through an unknown tonnage of salmon, halibut, filet of beef and Strip loins last season. I think I touched them up twice through last season... Crazy how there is salmon sharp and filet sharp...

Now to stay late one night and do it. Once someone sees stones on a table, the number of knives double. Lazy buggers!

You'll love it. Especially being a chef; the convenience, portability, versatility, and just general efficacy and brilliance of the SG500 is staggering.

 

[ChefJohnBoy-ardee]

You'll love it. Especially being a chef; the convenience, portability, versatility, and just general efficacy and brilliance of the SG500 is staggering.

Yeah it'll take up half the space in my tool box.
If it works as efficiently as efficiently as the chosera 400 I'll be happy. I know I will be.

Only complaint about the GS line and it's just nitpicking is how shiny the finish is. If the blade has a Kasumi finish I have to go back with some jnat dust and "scuff it up." If I'm being picky and paid.

 

[cotedupy]

Yeah it'll take up half the space in my tool box.
If it works as efficiently as efficiently as the chosera 400 I'll be happy. I know I will be.

Only complaint about the GS line and it's just nitpicking is how shiny the finish is. If the blade has a Kasumi finish I have to go back with some jnat dust and "scuff it up." If I'm being picky and paid.

I've not tried any of the finer GS for bevel stuff like that tbh. The 500 though seems to avoid it, probably because it kicks up a load of swarf very quickly. It's actually quite a good stone in a kasumi progression (there's a video somewhere that shows Shigefusa use it for their knives), as the scratches are quite light. Again - I've no idea how Shapton have managed this as the stone is fast.

Here's what the finish looks like:

Some noticeable 500 grit type scratch marks but not too bad. A minute or so on BBW overr the top however, and it now looks like this:

If you have one - Belgian Blue Whetstone is a brilliant polishing stone. Better than many jnats, and certainly the best non-Japanese stone I know for it.

 

[*stefan*]

How do you find the sharpening angle?

I cut out a 15 degree paper cardboard and used this, then cut out some more and glued them
together. Liked this method so much that I then made one in aluminium.

I now found out there are several of these "angle bricks" possible to buy on the internet but didn't know before.

Otherwise the tip is to do a edge leading honing stroke in a to low angle while raising the angle until the edge starts to bite. Or start with a higher angle and lower until the edge stops biting.
But the angle block works better for me, especially when doing a touch up from about 2000#.

 

[JPO]

How do you find the sharpening angle?

I cut out a 15 degree paper cardboard and used this, then cut out some more and glued them
together. Liked this method so much that I then made one in aluminium.

I now found out there are several of these "angle bricks" possible to buy on the internet but didn't know before.

Otherwise the tip is to do a edge leading honing stroke in a to low angle while raising the angle until the edge starts to bite. Or start with a higher angle and lower until the edge stops biting.
But the angle block works better for me, especially when doing a touch up from about 2000#.

I think this could be useful when/if you need to cut in a new primary bevel on a coarse stone. However, finding a combination of stones and technique that enables you to read the tactile and audio feedback from the bevel on the stone is key in my opinion.
I also think this concept of trying to find a accurate angle is more a western approach to knife honing/sharpening. With practice you will find a suitable angle that will be specific to you within a range for different knifes.
If i used the same guide as you, i would probably end up with a different angle, and a different bevel profile. It is nice to have a stable guide as a reference.

The shadow of your knife from an overhead light source will also tell you allot about your angle, and how it changes.

It is all personnel preference.

 

[*stefan*]

I think this could be useful when/if you need to cut in a new primary bevel on a coarse stone. However, finding a combination of stones and technique that enables you to read the tactile and audio feedback from the bevel on the stone is key in my opinion.
I also think this concept of trying to find a accurate angle is more a western approach to knife honing/sharpening. With practice you will find a suitable angle that will be specific to you within a range for different knifes.
If i used the same guide as you, i would probably end up with a different angle, and a different bevel profile. It is nice to have a stable guide as a reference.

The shadow of your knife from an overhead light source will also tell you allot about your angle, and how it changes.

It is all personnel preference.

So you use tactile and audio feedback to find the previous sharpening angle.

Have you ever tried to "set the angle" with a "block guide" for some sharpening sessions to see if it saves time and/or improves the result?

"The shadow of your knife from an overhead light source will also tell you allot about your angle, and how it changes".
-Do you make some arrangements with lighting?

I have so far never sharpened both primary and secondary bevel. Have thought about testing it for the purpose of thinning out a blade in the lower area though, perhaps 5-10 degrees and then the usual 15.

 

[JPO]

So you use tactile and audio feedback to find the previous sharpening angle.

Have you ever tried to "set the angle" with a "block guide" for some sharpening sessions to see if it saves time and/or improves the result?

"The shadow of your knife from an overhead light source will also tell you allot about your angle, and how it changes".
-Do you make some arrangements with lighting?

I have so far never sharpened both primary and secondary bevel. Have thought about testing it for the purpose of thinning out a blade in the lower area though, perhaps 5-10 degrees and then the usual 15.

So you use tactile and audio feedback to find the previous sharpening angle.
Yes.
Have you ever tried to "set the angle" with a "block guide" for some sharpening sessions to see if it saves time and/or improves the result?
Yes. As i said, it works well for heavier work. I used to use a wooden wedge with a groove in to fix it in position on the end of the stone with a rubber band. It did help, but i do not need it any more. I still think it can be a good tool. I use both my hands, so having the wedge on one end of the stone works fine.

Do you make some arrangements with lighting?
No, but the light over my sink is enough. For me looking at the shadow from my blade was more useful then the wedge i used. I usually sharpen my kitchen knifes slightly asymmetric, so working with allot of different angle guides made the process less enjoyable.

I have so far never sharpened both primary and secondary bevel. Have thought about testing it for the purpose of thinning out a blade in the lower area though, perhaps 5-10 degrees and then the usual 15.
It will probably work good for that purpose. It might also be useful for creating a more accurate micro bevel. You would then need more wedges with different angles.

 

[*stefan*]

So you use tactile and audio feedback to find the previous sharpening angle.
Yes.
Have you ever tried to "set the angle" with a "block guide" for some sharpening sessions to see if it saves time and/or improves the result?
Yes. As i said, it works well for heavier work. I used to use a wooden wedge with a groove in to fix it in position on the end of the stone with a rubber band. It did help, but i do not need it any more. I still think it can be a good tool. I use both my hands, so having the wedge on one end of the stone works fine.

Do you make some arrangements with lighting?
No, but the light over my sink is enough. For me looking at the shadow from my blade was more useful then the wedge i used. I usually sharpen my kitchen knifes slightly asymmetric, so working with allot of different angle guides made the process less enjoyable.

I have so far never sharpened both primary and secondary bevel. Have thought about testing it for the purpose of thinning out a blade in the lower area though, perhaps 5-10 degrees and then the usual 15.
It will probably work good for that purpose. It might also be useful for creating a more accurate micro bevel. You would then need more wedges with different angles.

I use the "angle block" only to memorize how the angle between the blade and stone looks before starting to hone. It helps me, especially when doing touch ups.

I then remove the block and don't use it during sharpening. Did you use the block during sharpening?

 

[JPO]

I use the "angle block" only to memorize how the angle between the blade and stone looks before starting to hone. It helps me, especially when doing touch ups.

I then remove the block and don't use it during sharpening. Did you use the block during sharpening?

This was the basic setup i used. Since i use both hands i just aligned the blade at the far end of the stone to find the angle.

 

[ChefJohnBoy-ardee]

Angle Guides are great while learning!

You also get used to the feel of a knife on the stones to know when the angle is correct and when you have done enough passes before feeling or looking for a burr.

I can look at the edge and see the scratch pattern change and see where the edge/bevel has hit the stones. If it doesn't reach the edge my angle was wrong or my hands were lying to me on the right amount of passes. At lower grits you can sometimes see the burr.

I also don't want to know how many knives I've sharpened to know this. I know its been enough to wear out some stones.

 

[Dnallehekaj]

I keep my knives on a magnetic rack. The magnets are recessed into a piece of cherry wood from the back side, and there's only wood touching the blades.

My Chinese cleaver lines up very well with two of the magnet points, and tends to really SMACK when I hang it. Yesterday, I noticed a couple chips in the edge, so today I got to sharpen it again.

I got the chips mostly out just using a King 1000. I thought I got them all out, but bad eyesight is bad. But I apparently got a lot better at sharpening Chinese cleavers between last time and this time!

I also sharpened my chef knife. I didn't think it NEEDED sharpening, but after I finished, I changed my mind. It's much better now.

What a great hobby

 

[JPO]

I keep my knives on a magnetic rack. The magnets are recessed into a piece of cherry wood from the back side, and there's only wood touching the blades.

My Chinese cleaver lines up very well with two of the magnet points, and tends to really SMACK when I hang it. Yesterday, I noticed a couple chips in the edge, so today I got to sharpen it again.

I got the chips mostly out just using a King 1000. I thought I got them all out, but bad eyesight is bad. But I apparently got a lot better at sharpening Chinese cleavers between last time and this time!

I also sharpened my chef knife. I didn't think it NEEDED sharpening, but after I finished, I changed my mind. It's much better now.

What a great hobby

I am not sure if it makes a difference, but you are magnetizing the steel when you use magnets. Metal swarf might stick to the edge while you are sharpening.
There is a really simple way to neutralize them.
Again am not sure if it makes any difference.

 

[Shavingeveryday]

I use Globals and Kai knives. For sharpening, I use a Minosharp (you add water to the bath)
or Sabatier 3 stage. For a quick sharpening, a one or 2 pass with a cheap one stage…gotta be careful with that as if you have soft steel, it takes little bits of the edge off…..

Once a year, I give them to a local butcher who sharpens them on a wheel for me…. You can shave your face with the edge when he’s finished…he says to use a steel to keep the edge, but I can’t get the proper experience with it…..

Had the knives for years, and will last me a lifetime.

 

[Dnallehekaj]

I am not sure if it makes a difference, but you are magnetizing the steel when you use magnets. Metal swarf might stick to the edge while you are sharpening.

I definitely noticed this in the tip of my chef knife. I thought it was just sticky this time, and dismissed it.

I'll look into demagnetization before next sharpen, thank you!

 

[JPO]

I definitely noticed this in the tip of my chef knife. I thought it was just sticky this time, and dismissed it.

I'll look into demagnetization before next sharpen, thank you!

You just need something like a rubber coated magned you pass along the length of the blade. You just need to experiment a little with the pole direction.

Dovo Inox is a magnet

My Dovo Inox razor is not magnetic, but actually a magnet. Is this normal? I had a hard time honing it. The edge just seemed to chip. I can understand this if the swarf sticks to the edge as it abrades off. You can actually lift the weight of a razor with it, not just a se blade.

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