Knickerbockers - did technology or fashion displace them?

[StillShaving]

I am no historian but I believe roughly a century ago knickers were commonly worn by most men. Besides fashion changes what were the reasons for their demise? Was it mainly due technological change like automobiles replacing horses, paved roads and hard surfaces replacing muddy walkways? So that shoes could be worn much more often than boots (and hence the inseam safely lowered)? Or was it a primarily just a fashion/style change?

Knickers survive today as a fashionable item on the golf course (retro trendy?) and sort of reflected in baseball uniforms which were born in the same era. I have never worn knickers but wonder what happened to them. As they seem like a functional item in many ways. Though if I were a bit more critical I might point that that some guys wear their cargo shorts so long as to effectively be modern day knickers. So maybe the style did not totally disappear. Any thoughts?

 

[TADIII]

I cannot answer your question about their history, I can tell you I DO wear them. Knickers (knickerbockers, plus-fours, pedal pushers, clam diggers, etc.). I have bought some in hemp, as well as microfiber, in the bicycle community, a pair of nylon cargo pants with an interior tab and an exterior button to be used to fasten the rolled up cuff (similar to some sports shirt sleeves). I have also had a couple of pairs of nice, old linen slacks re-tailored as knickers, using a couple of my old silk ties as the gusset material at the cuff button.

My observations after many years of usage:
Sometimes the cuff will ride up and get stuck at the knee, not returning to its plus-four drape
Sometimes over-the-calf hose do not remain over the calf, an unfortunate look
Sometimes a sockless look is even more unfortunate
My cleaners (plural) seem incapable of pressing them correctly
I still love them (they are not ubiquitous!)

Tom

 

[dws]

The only functionality - that I see - in knickerbockers, is that they were probably useful in the times when bicycles were more commonplace. Aside from fashion trends changing over time, I don't think there is any other reason that they went the way of the dodo bird. Not crazy to see on the golf course, however, rare. I believe those who still wear them (true knickerbockers) might be being a bit nostalgic in their choice. And there's nothing wrong with that at all.

 

[Rory1262]

Here's a piece that explains a lot.

History of plus fours

Payne Stewart, the PGA golfer who put plus-fours back in the public eye, has been dead for nearly 20 years.

 

[BigJ]

Here's a piece that explains a lot.

History of plus fours

Payne Stewart, the PGA golfer who put plus-fours back in the public eye, has been dead for nearly 20 years.

Great article!! Thanks. (From a guy who has no desire to wear plus-fours.)

 

[Climb14er]

I still have a pair of Woolrich Climbing Knickers that I wore in the mid seventies. Plus, still have knicker socks as well. The combo worked very well in the winter on mixed alpine rock and ice routes.

 

[ouch]

I wish someone would come along and displace the New York Knickerbockers.

 

[RhoCurly]

Knickers were also standard wear for grade school age boys from the early 20th century into the 1930s. It was a turning point in a boy’s life when he switched to long pants, much like my generation switching from briefs to boxers when we hit our teens (at least among my peers in the early 1980s)

 

[Rushman2112]

As is often said, Brits and Yanks divided by a common language - knickers are what ladies buy from Marks and Sparks' lingerie section(!) The only men wearing them would be pantomime dames!

 

[davent]

I thought they just called them capris or pedal pushers now.
dave

 

[TexLaw]

As has been alluded to, already, we just went to shorts once they became more accepted (and actually made for grown men).

 

[Raissermesser]

Just style. They're uncommon now for the same reason seersucker suits and men's hats dress hats are uncommon.

 

[ackvil]

Knickers were also standard wear for grade school age boys from the early 20th century into the 1930s. It was a turning point in a boy’s life when he switched to long pants, much like my generation switching from briefs to boxers when we hit our teens (at least among my peers in the early 1980s)

When I entered grade school in the late 1940s some of the boys still wore knickers. In the NYC school I went to none of the boys liked them and, in fact, were teased about wearing them. Within a few years, they were gone.

 

[Doc4]

"Breeches" ... knee-length leg garments ... were standard wear for centuries. But they tended to be far more "slim fitting" than their 20th-century plus-4 descendants.

The latter may have been practical for outdoors activities requiring both freedom of movement and the need to keep pants out of the mud and underbrush but ... the look is decidedly "functional" rather than "attractive". Most modern options tend to trim down the bulk ...

... but ... IMHO the damage has been done.

 

[Andy77]

Not since Patrick Ewing retired.

 

[Tanuki]

I still have a pair of Woolrich Climbing Knickers that I wore in the mid seventies. Plus, still have knicker socks as well. The combo worked very well in the winter on mixed alpine rock and ice routes.

Woolrich climbing knickers - also good for backcountry skiing back in the 70s.

These days it is ‘manpris’ for me, plus a couple pairs of cropped blue jeans. I run all my local errands on a bike...

 

[Badgerstate36]

I believe they simply went out of style. Personally, when I was in my early 20s, I was a huge fan of Payne Stewart and copied his style.
The only problem was is when youre 20 years old, not very good at golf, not very confident and people expect that youre a golf God simply because of the clothes you wear. I dont wear them anymore simply because I dont want the attention but I still love the style.

 

[Lord Fatboy]

Elastic has changed everything.

 

[StillShaving]

Many interesting responses. I am in agreement that the bagginess of knickers as compared to the slimmer 'plus 2' or 'plus 4' is not so attractive.

But with the recent flooding of hurricane Florence I was thinking about firemen, policemen, construction workers, etc and how many wear taller boots. That it seemed like a practical garment to wear in many circumstances. As compared to those flood water suits that Thom Browne designs. So the concept of shorter pants seemed like it might have some innate appeal to mankind and I was wondering what happened to that basic format.

 

[StillShaving]

As has been alluded to, already, we just went to shorts once they became more accepted (and actually made for grown men).

Is it really that simple? Not disputing you personally, but if short pants were a fashion no-no in the days before air conditioning then certainly that garment would go a long way towards displacing anything that is not full length trousers today.