What is the difference between the two? I'm new to the world of power tools, sorry in advance for the dumb questions coming your way guys
Jig saw vs reciprocating saw
- Thread starter SlyMoose
- Start date
Jig saw, reciprocating saw, saber saw are all pretty much interchangeable terms. Today a recip is usually a heavy duty saw for demo and construction work
While a jigsaw, or saber saw, typically refers to:
Or a jigsaw (or scroll saw) refers to:
Confused? Welcome to my world.
While a jigsaw, or saber saw, typically refers to:
Or a jigsaw (or scroll saw) refers to:
Confused? Welcome to my world.
Jig Saw - Use to cut pieces in a up and down motion, some bases will give adjustment to angle and some blades can be thin enough to cut large curves. Cuts are generally not entirely straight unless you use a guide. Even then, the blade sometimes moves if the saw is pushed.
Reciprocating Saw - used free hand and is usually for cutting where raw, non-straight cuts are not a problem. Blade length can vary and the saw is usually used for demolition.
Reciprocating Saw - used free hand and is usually for cutting where raw, non-straight cuts are not a problem. Blade length can vary and the saw is usually used for demolition.
Jig saws use smaller blades, require the foot to contact the surface of the material being cut(most of the time), have less blade reciprocating distance, and generally used for cutting odd shapes or cutting into corners where two cuts meet where a circular saw won't reach. Generally a "finish" tool.
Sabre/Tiger/Sawzall use much longer/larger blades, do not need to contact the material being cut, have 3/4" or more of blade travel, has enough torque to power the blade through thicker tougher material, and generally used as a demo/rough tool
Both are different enough where I need both for my work, but if you all you do is demo or frame all day you would have no need for a jig saw. If you were a finish carpenter, you would find a jigsaw more useful, however you would probably have a Sawzall as well.
Sabre/Tiger/Sawzall use much longer/larger blades, do not need to contact the material being cut, have 3/4" or more of blade travel, has enough torque to power the blade through thicker tougher material, and generally used as a demo/rough tool
Both are different enough where I need both for my work, but if you all you do is demo or frame all day you would have no need for a jig saw. If you were a finish carpenter, you would find a jigsaw more useful, however you would probably have a Sawzall as well.
- Thread starter
- #5
thanks very much guys!
I'm kicking around the idea of building my daughter a playhouse in the back yard and was trying to decide what I need, and wasn't 100% sure what the difference was
I'm kicking around the idea of building my daughter a playhouse in the back yard and was trying to decide what I need, and wasn't 100% sure what the difference was
These are great projects to hone your skills. You get to see what does and doesn't work and why, and she gets a project that dad made, and which, in her eyes will always be perfect.
- Thread starter
- #8
Tons of hand tools. As far as power tools just a drill at the moment, I think I'll need a circular saw, and/or a jig saw or sawzall
I recommend a circular saw and the jigsaw. You should be able to do without the sawzall for a playhouse unless you have some metl pipe to cut that cannot be done on a jigsaw. Of course a hacksaw will do also if you have hand tools, it'll just take longer.
I know of at least one professional carpenter who avoids using a circular saw as much as he possibly can, preferring to use a jigsaw. I also know a few carpenters missing finger tips and fingers. All table saw accidents.
I've seen lots of fellas careless ... got to respect that blade. Always use a piece to push a piece, never your hand.
Losing a finger is always a possibility that with circular saws. If you are going to be cutting a lot of 2x stock you will need something with more power than a jigsaw especially if you want square cuts. Maybe a cheap chop saw?
A chop saw would probably be best, add a table saw and that would handle all stright cuts. A jig saw is for curves, it can cut stright but is a lot slower than other choices.
When i built my all wood shed, although i have a jig saw and a Sawzall, all cuts were done with the circular saw and handsaws.
dave
dave
There are some tools that you need and others that are nice to have.
For a playhouse I'd think you'd need a circular saw (corded version, skip the cordless ones as they don't have enough power and kill batteries quickly) for cutting sheets of plywood and 2x4's and maybe a jigsaw for more precise tasks like cutting out a window.
For example, if you want to make a wooden Santa Clause and paint it up for the front yard that's the kind of cuts a jigsaw can make. I wouldn't want to cut a straight cut through a piece of plywood with one as they cut very slowly.
You'd also need a good drill, some drill bits, and a bit set that allows you to screw in screws with your drill. I generally avoid cordless tools except for the drill. I usually buy Ridgid because of the Lifetime warranty (just register it online within 30 days).
If you want to use this as an excuse to buy tools then add a nice compound miter saw for trim work and cutting the 2/4's (definitely makes that easier and more precise) as well as a compressor and nail gun(s). Because they are fun and do save you some time.
I've used a sawzall about 100 times and I have yet to make a straight cut (I've tried) with one I find them best for demo work. The blade moves around as you cut so they aren't made to cut straight. They are nice to have around but not for any type of finish work. You'll know when you need one but I'm having a hard time thinking of something you'd need it for in building a playhouse. Great for cutting pipes, bolts, putting rough holes in walls, etc.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I love a circular saw for general carpentry... framing, cutting straight lines in plywood, etc. A miter box and back saw is nice for precise straight or angle cuts. For fancy joinery, you want a table saw, but you wont need it for this project. Jigsaws are slow, but for tight curves and scrollwork, it sure beats a coping saw. I like to have two drills on hand. One is for drilling screw holes and the other is for driving screws. Get some all-in-one bits for drilling and countersinking in one shot. A set of hole saws can be handy when you need to make a large, neat hole. They chuck right into your drill. Perfect for installing a knobset in a door.
You will want a few specialized hand tools. A set of nailsets. These look like very fine round punches but the tip is cupped to engage the head of a finishing nail so you can set the nailhead below flush. Chisels, for installing door hinges, if nothing else. A triangular "speed square" or rafter square is very handy once you learn all the tricks you can do with it. A keyhole saw for cutouts in drywall, if you will be installing drywall. A 12oz claw hammer works great for small projects like that. No need for a 16oz or 20oz unless you are doing some serious framing, such as for a full size house. The 12oz is easy to control and you can in a pinch use the same hammer for drywall. For a general purpose hand saw, you cant beat a Stanley Sharptooth for value. For a modestly priced saw they are a joy to use. Get a full size, not one of the midget size ones. You will be glad you did. Get some sawhorse brackets, enough to make 3 or 4 sawhorses. The brackets make the task much easier and gives you a very sturdy sawhorse without a lot of extra wood. Just two sawhorses is a PITA if you dont have a helper. You might want a straightedge/level to help keep everything honest.
You will want a few specialized hand tools. A set of nailsets. These look like very fine round punches but the tip is cupped to engage the head of a finishing nail so you can set the nailhead below flush. Chisels, for installing door hinges, if nothing else. A triangular "speed square" or rafter square is very handy once you learn all the tricks you can do with it. A keyhole saw for cutouts in drywall, if you will be installing drywall. A 12oz claw hammer works great for small projects like that. No need for a 16oz or 20oz unless you are doing some serious framing, such as for a full size house. The 12oz is easy to control and you can in a pinch use the same hammer for drywall. For a general purpose hand saw, you cant beat a Stanley Sharptooth for value. For a modestly priced saw they are a joy to use. Get a full size, not one of the midget size ones. You will be glad you did. Get some sawhorse brackets, enough to make 3 or 4 sawhorses. The brackets make the task much easier and gives you a very sturdy sawhorse without a lot of extra wood. Just two sawhorses is a PITA if you dont have a helper. You might want a straightedge/level to help keep everything honest.
For handsaws enough can't be said for the workhorse Japanese saws sold by Lee Valley, fantastic!
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32923&cat=42884,42924&ap=1
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32925&cat=42884,42924&ap=1
dave
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32923&cat=42884,42924&ap=1
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32925&cat=42884,42924&ap=1
dave
Jig/saber saws and Skil/circular saws are analogous to a typical gas powered walk behind lawn mower to cut your lawn. They are the utility players that get the job done in a workmanlike manner. The jig/saber saw does curves whereas the circular saw just cuts straight lines.
Sawzall/reciprocating saws are analogous to having chain saws to clear brush. It pretty much hacks and slashes through anything if you have the appropriate blades.
For a children's playhouse I would foresee using needing a circular saw to break down sheet goods for flooring, subroofing, and possibly siding.
If all you need to cut is framing lumber and clapboard siding you might be able to get by with a powered miter saw. Simple ones are going to have a length of cut just a bit less than the diameter of the blade. Some of the newer ones have a sliding configuration which extends the cut. They are great for getting straight, angled, and beveled cuts on dimensional lumber but you can't break down sheet goods with them.
A jig/saber saw could come in handy if you need to cut curves, especially if you are doing ginger bread trim.
Save the sawzall/reciprocating saw until your daughter starts using the playhouse as a secret spot to meet boys. It can also be used for dismantling the structure.
Sawzall/reciprocating saws are analogous to having chain saws to clear brush. It pretty much hacks and slashes through anything if you have the appropriate blades.
For a children's playhouse I would foresee using needing a circular saw to break down sheet goods for flooring, subroofing, and possibly siding.
If all you need to cut is framing lumber and clapboard siding you might be able to get by with a powered miter saw. Simple ones are going to have a length of cut just a bit less than the diameter of the blade. Some of the newer ones have a sliding configuration which extends the cut. They are great for getting straight, angled, and beveled cuts on dimensional lumber but you can't break down sheet goods with them.
A jig/saber saw could come in handy if you need to cut curves, especially if you are doing ginger bread trim.
Save the sawzall/reciprocating saw until your daughter starts using the playhouse as a secret spot to meet boys. It can also be used for dismantling the structure.
