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Is Neatsfoot the Only Oil Suitable for a Strop?

duke762

Rose to the occasion
Is there a reason mineral oil or mink oil won't work? I'm working on an old Scotch Dent #5. The leather is so hard I may just put an edge on in and chop weeds in the yard. It's in real nice condition other that being board stiff. I just realized my Neatsfoot is 45 years old and smells pretty funky.
 

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
I think you would be fine with any of those if your strop is ready dry or hard. Mink Oil is commonly used on leather so should not be an issue but some are sold for boot conditioning/waterproofing and may contain silicone making it a bit slippery. Mineral oil is not usually a leather oil but does not go bad so should not be an issue either. I use it for my pocket knives as a lubricant and a coating to protect the blade and wood or bone scales. Nice stuff, cheap and easy to get.
 
I used it on a old dried out strop. Did a few light coats then waited for it to fully absorb before applying the next coat. It did quite well. At least in my opinion it did well. It was a cheep mac strop off of amazon. After a few layers the strop seemed to work a lot better than it did before adding it. But again that is my opinion. I also did a light layer on my red imp strop when I got it and it felt a lot better. It didnt seem to change the draw much at all. As I hear people say neetsfoot oil changes the draw. I am wanting to try neetfoot oil so i can compair the two side by side.
 

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
I used it on a old dried out strop. Did a few light coats then waited for it to fully absorb before applying the next coat. It did quite well. At least in my opinion it did well. It was a cheep mac strop off of amazon. After a few layers the strop seemed to work a lot better than it did before adding it. But again that is my opinion. I also did a light layer on my red imp strop when I got it and it felt a lot better. It didnt seem to change the draw much at all. As I hear people say neetsfoot oil changes the draw. I am wanting to try neetfoot oil so i can compair the two side by side.

Almost any oil can change the draw, especially if too much is used and many people fall into the "if a little is good, more is even better" category. When I oil (and it is seldom) I apply a tiny bit to the palm of my hand, rub my hands together, then rub the strop. If you are as old as I am (63) you might remember your dad rubbing Brylcreem in his hair the same way :001_smile

I try to follow the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school of thought and only oil a strop if it feels like something is missing.
 

duke762

Rose to the occasion
Brylcreem! A little dab will do ya'! I like the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" quote but I also subscribe to the "it ain't broke til I can't fix it" school of thought. Most folks would have thrown this thing out. Horribly mildewed, stinky, heavily used, dirty but not a nick anywhere. Must have belonged to someone skilled in it's use. If I can bring it back from the dead, cool. If not, it will be repurposed. Thanks for the advise! Fresh neatsfoot just arrived!
 
When it comes to adding oil to a strop, I always start with the smallest amount possible. You can always add more if things are going in the right direction.
 
When I have worked on older strops I normally lightly clean with saddle soap and soft cotton cloth and lightly scrub out the grime then after it’s dried several days laying flat I hang it with other strops and just give it a heft palm rub every time I go thru the room and do this for maybe a week or so and then make the determination if it needs any conditioning and if it does I use Venetian shoe cream as this is what Horween recommends for there leather.

I don’t apply the neutral cream with a cloth, what I do is put 2-3 drops in the palm of my hands and rub my hands together then rub the strop like I’m warming it for use and then I wait a few days and continue to rub all the time, yes this is a slow process but remember once you put to much conditioning products into the leather it’s there and you can’t take it back so it’s best to go slow.
 
I use what HORWEEN Leathers says is best , and I've been using it since the 1960's, VENETIAN shoe cream, it's the best....comes in many sizes..
ven.JPG
 

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
I’ve only used mink. Just rub a small bit on the heel of my hand and run the strop. Every year or two. My strop is over 70 years old an I do cherish it.
 
Has anybody tried huberd's shoe grease or redwing oil. Huberd's has worked great on other leather I own. Redwing worked well, just not as long before needing another treatment on my bike leather.
 

duke762

Rose to the occasion
Welcome to the forum! Wasn't aware either one existed. Do either have silicone in them. Just found out above that it's not good for strops. Back in my hooligan days I'd loving rub my black leather jacket with mink oil. Smelled a little funny but the leather felt like butter.
 
For redwing and huberd's it seems pine tar is the main waterproofing ingredient, not silicone. I'll have to do a little research. Both I have used for years and I enjoy the smell of huberd's. It has the consistency that is lighter than actual grease. When you use your hands to rub it in, it turns to a consistency almost like water and rubs into leather real well.
 
I'm surprised no one has suggested or tried Lexol it's what I use on my Biker leather. Keeps it very supple. I may try it sparingly on the strop I just re made.
 
Ive used these all successfully.

Tanner’s Preserve car seat leather cleaner and conditioner
Jojoba oil
Coconut oil (one of main ing. in some solingen strop paste)
Shea butter
Fluid Film (lanolin base)
 
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