Intertwined Tests: Soap molecule size AND Fusion 5 vs. Mach 3

[ShaveTry]

Over the past several month I've run a series of tests of blades and soaps to try and find the ultimate combination for my shaving goals. Links to those tests are below.

One question I've been pondering has two intertwined parts:

Part One: Each soap has a different texture and viscosity, but those generally fall into 3 categories: 5) Very "thick and rich" (we'll call "creamy"); 1) Relatively thin and foamy (we'll call "soapy"); and 3) Something in between. Based on this scale, 1 would be quite thin, 5 very thick and rich, and 3 about average in the middle.

I know this is partly dependent on the amount of water added, but regardless of the amount of H2O, the fundamental molecular nature of each soap tends to come through despite the amount of H2O. Important note: for me it's not disparaging to say a soap is on the thinner "soapy" end. I've gotten tremendous protective shaves (and relatively poor shaves) from soaps in all 3 categories.

Part Two Intro: While I love the idea of DE shaving, I'm agnostic about the actual shave tool... I don't care what it is as long as it delivers a very close and very comfortable shave, and an overall "shave den" or "guy's spa" type experience. If if is less expensive (as DE hypothetically is, although I've found it not so cheap when all costs are considered), great. But cost is not a primary concern. Also I have to believe that major shaving companies have spent many hundreds of millions if not more to test and try to come up with more effective shaving systems, so I'm willing to try them.

Part Two Core Issue: Which leads to the Part Two question: The Mach 3-blade system seems to have a wider gap between blades than the Fusion 5-blade system. So, is it possible that some soaps are better suited for a wider 3-blade rig and some soaps better for a 5-blade rig? Specifically I'm wondering if the "Creamy Category" soaps have a larger basic molecule and thus would work best in a wider blade rig (i.e. Mach 3). Similarly, might a thinner "Soapy Category" product better take advantage of the benefits of two extra shaving surfaces in a 5-blade rig? I want to test this hypothesis over the next few weeks and would appreciate your thoughts on it.

Test #1: Mach 3 vs. Fusion 5, using Bull and Bell Bay Rum Soap, rated around 4-4.5/5. A 4 on the soapy vs. creamy spectrum is definitely "thick and rich", but not quite at the extreme end. This soap is described in some detail in the Western Bracket Competition below, and is one of my favorites to this point in my tests.

I had recently shaved my entire face with Fusion 5 using BBBRS and while I loved the overall experience, I was still left with a slight palpable stubble especially in the central cheek areas, and especially on the right side. BBBRS being a creamier soap I decided to shave again, using a Mach 3 on the right side vs. a Fusion 5 on the left side. Time was allowed for 3 passes each side and a final touch-up pass. The shave was done around 10am using BBBRS lathered with a boar brush in a warmed scuttle. Shave effort: Both sides shaved very comfortable. And there was a deceptive "slickness" which left me feeling I had shaved to the very base of the beard. However when that residue was splashed off I STILL had this annoying fainting palpable patch of stubble on both sides. GRRRRR. So, re-soaped those patches, shaved again (ATG), and finally arrived at two perfect sides with zero palpable stubble.

NOW, how long will this last... that's my proposed benchmark for whether soap molecule size really means anything. At 4.5 hours out, on light palpation ATG, the Mach 3 side had palpable stubble ATG rated "0 to 1", i.e. as so extremely faint as to have to re-stroke to confirm if anything is there. The Fusion 5 side was "1 to 2", i.e. unmistakably there, but extremely faint. At 4.5 hours on deep palpation ATG the score was 1-2 for Mach 3 vs. 2-3 for Fusion. There just wasn't any question there was some very faint stubble ATG, though you have to really make an effort, and it was slightly more palpable on the Fusion side. At 5.5 hours out the light palpation scores were basically the same, but deep palpation the stubble had progressed to 2 for Mach 3 and 2-3 for Fusion.

So, this is hardly a scientifically solid random controlled test, but it's a step in that direction. I was thrilled with the results, although not so thrilled I had to go back and target those central cheek areas one last time. But to the issues at hand, the Mach 3-blade system performed at least as well, and likely slightly better than the 5-blade system for this creamy-type soap.

The test will continue, and your thoughts on the matter are much appreciated.

Side-by-side tests of 10 "top rated" blades: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...-quot-Blades?p=8247792&highlight=#post8247792

Side-by-side soap trials, Western Bracket Competition: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...uot-Top-Rated-quot-Soaps-Western-Bracketology

Side-by-side soap trials, Eastern Bracket Competition: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...de-tests-of-quot-Top-Rated-quot-Shaving-Soaps

Side-by-side soap trials, Northern Bracket Competition: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...-rated-quot-shave-soaps-Northern-Bracketology

 

[TimothyClayton]

Great test! How many more do you think you'll do?

 

[SirChangalot]

Holy cow! Somebody is getting ready for their PhD on shaving

 

[ShaveTry]

SHAVING TEST

Type: One soap, two razors

Razors: Mach 3 vs. Fusion 5

Soap: Tabac Original, a finalist in the Eastern Bracket Soap Competition. Bloomed and initially lathered in it’s own dish, then dripped into a warmed scuttle and finished lathering from there.

Test method: Shave one side face with Mach 3 using Tabac Soap, the other side w/ Fusion 5 and Tabac. Basically a 3-pass shave plus minor touch-up. Looking for around 2 strokes per facial area per pass.

Scent: 4/5. I love this fragrance. Soap is in the mild-scent category, scent is very masculine and clean. Appropriate for any setting: office, date, etc.


Lather: 4-4.5/5 on the richness scale. Very creamy, applies evenly. Key is to bloom the puck with a few drops of H2O. Then lather in it’s own bowl with a moist but not wet brush. Result is very slick rich creamy-type lather. If you use more H2O you will have a foamier “soapier” type result. That also works but I find working this soap up somewhat richer yields more of it’s positive properties.


Glide: 3.5-4/5. In the richer-lather version Tabac is well above-average in glide.


Residual slickness: 4+/5. Lays down a thin slippery residue that permits multiple strokes without sensitizing the skin. Glide and slickness was approx. the same for M3 and F5 razors


Nicks: 3.5/5. A couple micro-nicks above upper lip for both M3 and F5. Closed rapidly.


Comfort: post-shave it was difficult to tell a meaningful difference between the M3 and F5 sides. There was no stinging, burning, numbness or dryness during the shave nor post-shave. Both sides passed the slap test just fine at 0 hours.


Closeness: The Tabac is an exceptionally efficient soap, requiring only a couple localized touch-ups to get the shave down to the skin surface. Despite this, post-shave the M3 side feels slightly closer. The F5 left a small area of palpable stubble ATG in the central cheek area. This is the same side of the face that the M3 shaved down to the skin using Bull and Bell Bay Rum in a prior test in this thread. Will continue to monitor closeness in the coming hours.


4.5 hours out: The M3 side stubble score is 0+ to light palpation and 1 to heavy palpation, i.e. light surface strokes reveal essentially zero palpable stubble. Of course, none visible. The F5 side scores 1+ on light palpation and 2 on heavy. Definitely palpable even to a light touch, but very barely so. Both sides have remained reasonably comfortable with no dryness or other sensitivity.


7.5 hours out: M3 side stubble score is 1-2 on light palpation and 3-4 on heavy palpation. F5 scores 2+ on light and 4-5 on deep, heavy palpation. No meaningful stubble is visible on the M3 side and only the barest patches on F5 side. No meaningful stubble is palpable WTG either side.


10 hours out: M3 side still has a visible stubble score of “zero to ½”. It is extremely clean-looking shave even at 10 hours. The F5 side has a visible score of 1-1.5, still quite presentable but realistically the F5 side yielded a shave duration of 1 to 2 hours less than M3 in this case. Reasonable comfort both sides throughout.


Beyond: the M3 side just continued to feel smooth down to the skin on light palpation for several more hours. Very minimal stubble visibility emerged in the 11-12 hour range, but still presentable.


Result: Tabac is an extremely effective and efficient soap with great glide, RS, and protectiveness. Great scent produces a real shave-den type experience. In it’s richer lather version, Tabac is a larger-molecule soap and shaved better with the Mach 3 in this case.

 

[Joncr]

Appreciate the effort your making to test your hypothesis. FWIW, difference I found with Mach VS Fusion Proglide opposite of yours, but maybe it is my soap. I use Williams Mug Shave Soap. My shave process the same for both Fusion and Mach 3. Cool water face wash. Rub soap puck over stubble. Face lather with brush first dipped in cool water. Takes less than a minute to create a thin layer of thick, creamy lather. First path XTG. Cool water rinse. Relather with soap left in brush. Second pass ATG. With Fusion no touch ups or light, quick under chin touch up. With Mach 3, exactly the same, but I seem to require more extensive touch up, jaw line, under chin, throat, almost becomes a third pass. Immediately after shave and throughout day more roughness and stubble with Mach 3. I always thought razor responsible, but your concept of lather and blade separation may be closer to actual reason for different results. Will be very curious to see if you try Williams and what your experience is. I know Williams gets little respect in the community, but I have found it works excellently for me with the Fusion Proglide.

 

[ShaveTry]

Great test! How many more do you think you'll do?

Actually a fair number... I'm thinking that I'll end up with 3 to 5 soaps in each of the "regional finals"... and then I'll take the majority ofno those on a spin using this M3 vs. F5 approach.

So far I've tried it with 2 relatively "thick and rich" soaps, those being Bull & Bell BRum and Tabac. In both cases, on opposite sides of my face, the M3 did noticeably better. But that's just two tests. If that trend persists for 10 or more tests, then I can be more confident of the results.

Meanwhile have to try some thinner soaps to see if those do as well or better in the F-5.

 

[ShaveTry]

Appreciate the effort your making to test your hypothesis. FWIW, difference I found with Mach VS Fusion Proglide opposite of yours, but maybe it is my soap. I use Williams Mug Shave Soap. My shave process the same for both Fusion and Mach 3. Cool water face wash. Rub soap puck over stubble. Face lather with brush first dipped in cool water. Takes less than a minute to create a thin layer of thick, creamy lather. First path XTG. Cool water rinse. Relather with soap left in brush. Second pass ATG. With Fusion no touch ups or light, quick under chin touch up. With Mach 3, exactly the same, but I seem to require more extensive touch up, jaw line, under chin, throat, almost becomes a third pass. Immediately after shave and throughout day more roughness and stubble with Mach 3. I always thought razor responsible, but your concept of lather and blade separation may be closer to actual reason for different results. Will be very curious to see if you try Williams and what your experience is. I know Williams gets little respect in the community, but I have found it works excellently for me with the Fusion Proglide.

Thanks alot Joncr for the feedback. First off I don't put that much stock in whether a soap gets respect or not... it's how it works for the individual shaver that really matters. I've been criticized for not giving much love to some "sacred cow" soaps, but they just didn't deliver for me. Re Williams I'm just guessing that it may deliver a more "soapy" type lather. If that's the case, and you find it shaves better with a 5-blade rig, then that might support the idea that the thinner lather can better exploit the benefits of 5 blades than can a lather that is more rich and creamy.

Another question, have you tried using the M3 and F5 side by side on the same shave, and lastly, it's important to have blades in similar condition. If you're using an M3 for the 10th time vs. a fresh F5 we would expect the F5 to do better, all else equal.

 

[Joncr]

ShaveTry....Like you I use what works for me, regardless of general opinion. I have used probably twenty or more soaps, creams, croats over the past several years. Some work better with a DE some with cart systems and some irritate my skin, some don't. I have not done a systematic comparison like you are doing. My judgement is purely day to day experience. Williams Mug I find the least irritating. As far as shave performance it does not seem to work as well for me with DE razors. Comparing Mach 3 to Fusion Proglide. It doesn't matter whether both are new or well used carts. The Fusion with Williams, pulls less and shaves noticable closer than the same setup with a Mach 3. Both give me minimal to zero razor irritation or razor burn. Would be very curious to hear if your experience with Williams and Fusion VS Mach 3 is the same, or if anyone else has tried a comparison of those two carts with Williams. Anyway thank you for your time and effort. You are adding to the body of knowledge which helps us all.

 

[ShaveTry]

Comparing Mach 3 to Fusion Proglide. It doesn't matter whether both are new or well used carts. The Fusion with Williams, pulls less and shaves noticable closer than the same setup with a Mach 3. Both give me minimal to zero razor irritation or razor burn. Would be very curious to hear if your experience with Williams and Fusion VS Mach 3 is the same, or if anyone else has tried a comparison of those two carts with Williams. Anyway thank you for your time and effort. You are adding to the body of knowledge which helps us all.

Jonc you will want to check out the following test using a thinner soap (Stirling) with the M3 vs. F5. I will definitely test with William when I get a puck of it.

 

[ShaveTry]

SHAVING TEST. Importantly, for purpose of molecule size issue, this is assumed to be a "smaller molecule" soap.

Type: One soap, two razors
Razors: Mach 3 vs. Fusion 5
Soap: Stirling Executive Man (SEM), a finalist in the Western Bracket Soap Competition. Lathered a warmed scuttle. Start time: 10am with 40+ hours beard.

Test method: Shave one side face with Mach 3 using Stirling Soap, the other side w/ Fusion 5 and Stirling. Basically a 3-pass shave plus minor touch-up. Looking for around 2 strokes per facial area per pass.

Scent: 4+/5. Love the scent of Executive Man. It’s masculine, moderate to strong intensity but not overly sexy. Can be worn in most professional environments.

Lather: 1.5-2 / 5 on the richness scale. i.e. this is a “thinner and soapier” type product, as opposed to “rich and creamy”. This has been a consistent finding in numerous SEM trials.

Glide: 3-3.5/5. Very good glide, unquestionably above average.

Residual slickness: 4+/5. Lays down a very thin slippery “coating” that permits multiple strokes without sensitizing the skin. Glide and slickness was approx. the same for both M3 and F5 razors

Nicks: with M3 4-4.5/5. One micro “red speck”, but no real leaker. With F5: 4/5. A couple very tiny micros on face, none on neck. Disappeared rapidly.

Sensitivity and comfort: 4/5 post-shave.A bit of tingling during the shave which dissipated. Passes slap test post-shave. The F5 side feels slightly more sensitive than the M3 side. Also wondering if SEM might feel slightly more drying than some of the other products due to the soapiness quality? Will monitor this in coming hours.

Closeness: Immediately post shave, despite multiple passes, the M3 side still has slight palpable stubble on deep palpation. The F5 side feels more closely shaven at zero hours. Will continue to monitor.

Zero hours, M3 side: Light palpation = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = distinct “1” stubble… i.e. is unquestionably palpable. Comfort: excellent

Zero hours, F5 side: Light palpation = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0 to 1 stubble. Really have to “stretch” your imagination to feel any residual stubble, but might be something here or there. Comfort: compared to M3, a bit more sensitive, perhaps “a bit closer shaved” in feeling, not really more sensitive?

2 hours out, M3 side: Light palpation = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 1+ stubble. Very comfortable.
2 hours out, F5 side: Light palpation = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = “1 scattered”. Slightly sensitive, but very tolerable

4 hours out, M3 side: Light palpation = 0-1 stubble (may feel something slight there, even on light stroke). Deep palpation: 2 stubble. Very comfortable.
4 hours out, F5 side: Light palpation = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 1+ scattered. Slight sensitivity or “greater closeness”, very tolerable.

5 hours out, M3 side: Light palpation = 0-1 stubble. Deep palpation = 2+ stubble. Some visible stubble patch beginning to emerge.
5 hours out, F5 side: Light palpation = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 1-2 stubble, particularly on lower jawline. No visible stubble

6.5 hours out, M3 side: Light palpation = 1 stubble, Deep = 2+ stubble. Continuing stubble visibility, no longer worth checking M3 at this point.

6.5 hours out, F5 side: Light palpation = 0 to 1 “faint”. Deep = 1-2 on lower jawline, now some on cheek

9 hours out, F5: Stubble still not materially visible. Just starting to poke out here and there. Clearly palpable

13 hours out, F5: Up close stubble is clearly if sporadically visible.

Estimated duration of “perfectly clean shaven” look: 10 to 11 hours with F5. Much less with M3.

Result: The SEM did reasonably good if not great with the F5 but not with the M3. The F5 side delivered a very clean feeling and looking shave for a solid 10+ hours, meaning you can shave at 730am and still make a 530-600pm dinner looking quite groomed. Also the SEM scent is killer, a very basic, masculine scent that seems “classic” as opposed to modern. Very appropriate any setting, any culture I would say. OTOH there was some faint sensitivity that was greater on the F5 side, and it did not do well with the M3. Overall I would use this soap again with the F5, but definitely not with an M3 and perhaps wouldn’t be my first selection for a DE either.

Soap molecular size issue: Note this is assumed to be a smaller soap molecule given it is not as "rich and creamy". While the rich and creamy tests have favored the M3 rig, this thinner soap clearly favored the F5 rig. This supports the idea that the thinner-molecule soap may better exploit the virtues of a 5 blade rig over a 3-blade rig. Time will tell if this relationship holds.

 

[Highspeedlane]

My first test with a Gillette Fusion (I received free from a promotional mailer) confirmed that the narrowly spaced blades of the Fusion clog with soap much more quickly than the Mach 3, to the point shaving my neck area was a major chore. Using a much thinner cream (Creamo) was an improvement, but not to the point I would ever want to use a Fusion on a regular basis. The head is just too big to wield effectively in tight areas.

 

[sbrush_noob]

While I'm not a soap expert, but I have some chemistry background, and most soaps use the same molecules: palmitic acid or stearic acid.

It sounds like you are describing the lather consistency.

The actual final product, the consistency of the lather, will depend on everything else that's inside the soap, the proportions, how much water you added, and how you lathered it up.

I like your point about the R&D cost of carts. Gillette carts are more expensive partly due to the R&D cost. I've read that Gillette spent 750 million on the development of the Mach 3. For me Gillette carts are the best I've tried. You could get cheaper carts, but they don't shave as well.

 

[ShaveTry]

Sbrush: I'm also not a soap chemistry expert by any means. However I think it goes well beyond mere addition of water.

Let's assume that the "soap base" is the same for all these products, say palmitic or stearic acid. Palmitic is C16H32O2, stearic is C18H36O2. Been awhile since I took a chem class but one is a 16-carbon chain, the other an 18, and their molecular binding points seem to be different. So unless they equally react with water and brush lathering, there could be some differences there, similar to differences in the properties of an omega 6 vs. an omega 3 oil.

But assuming those differences aren't significant, I think it's the "added ingredients" that can affect the thickness of these lathers: the tallow, lanolin, shea butter, kokum, clay, coconut oil, avocado oil, mango oil, "silk protein", etc. etc. And then the proportions of these additives vary from product to product.

For all of them I usually start out with very little water and just add enough to bring it up to what looks like the first or second step of a rich functional lather. For some products that is quite thick, and for others it appears thinner at any level of added water, so that's what I mean by the "nature" of the product... some just present as having that greater or lesser fundamental thickness.

Many thanks for your contribution to this issue.

 

[ShaveTry]

SHAVING TEST
Type: One soap, two razors
Razors: Mach 3 vs. Fusion 5

Soap: Antica Barbieria Colla (ABC a finalist in the Eastern Bracket Soap Competition here: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...de-tests-of-quot-Top-Rated-quot-Shaving-Soaps
The soap was lathered in a warmed scuttle. Start time: 6pm with 30+ hours beard.

Test method: Shave one side face with Mach 3 using ABC Soap, the other side w/ Fusion 5 and ABC. Basically a 3-pass shave plus minor touch-up. Looking for around 2 strokes per facial area per pass.

Scent: Very mild. This soap defines the “zero to mild” scent category

Lather: 3-3.5/5 on the richness scale. Not quite Tabac richness let alone Mike’s or CRSW, but well above average.

Glide: 4+/5. Really facilitates the blade strokes

Residual slickness: 4+/5. Very slippery, permitting additional strokes but also risking over-shaving because the slickness is so accommodating.

Nicks: both the M3 and F5 had a few more nicks than other soaps tested. F5 a bit more protective around 2.5-3/5 with 1 on chin, 2 on lip. M3 a bit more, around a 2-2.5/5. But no major gushers.

Sensitivity and comfort: Overall pretty good. Immediately post-shave the F5 side may have felt a bit more sensitive. Interestingly for purpose of this thread, I could really feel the M3 blades here… it was like I was aware there were 3 separate blades going across my face! As opposed to the F5 which felt closer to one contiguous shaving surface. That was more of an un-nerving feeling “what if one of these blades digs in” type of thing, but there was no tingle, numbness or other effect beyond the nicks noted.

Closeness: Immediately post shave the sides feel similar. I was able to get down to the skin on both as best I could and my initial impression was that no major stubble patches were palpable at zero hours. HOWEVER, when fully dried off, I did notice a slight patch on the F5 side that was “almost gone” but still there after multiple efforts. Will continue to monitor in the coming hours.

3 hours, M3 side: Light palpation = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = “1/2”, i.e. “I might be feeling something there, not exactly sure. Comfort: good, no complaints

3 hours, F5 side: Light palpation = 0-1 stubble. Deep palpation = 1 stubble. Very slight but unmistakable patch when rubbed ATG. My notes read: “The M3 side was definitely closer but still remember the feeling of those 3 blades while shaving not being as comfortable”.

7 hours out, M3 side: Light palpation = 0-1/2 stubble. Deep palpation = 1+ stubble. No comfort complaints.

7 hours out, F5 side: Light palpation = 1+ stubble. Deep palpation = 2-3 stubble. Comfort continues good.

12 hours out, M3 side: Light palpation = 0-1/2 stubble. Just barely detectable. Deep palpation: 1-2 stubble. Good comfort.

12 hours out, F5 side: Light palpation= 3 stubble. Deep palpation = 4+ stubble. Very obviously there.

At 12 hours the M3 had the very barest visible stubble… I would have to get my face right up to the mirror to see it, so this soap in the M3 delivers a very solid 11+ hour super-clean look and even a pretty good feel at only 0.5 stubble lightly and 1-2 stubble deeply ATG. And reasonable comfort throughout except that fearful feel of the 3 blades while shaving.

Result: This was a good to very good result for M3, but not for F5. Overall not my most memorable shave, but would definitely use this soap and blade combo again. ABC is also notable for having a very mild to essentially zero scent, which is rare these days and definitely deserves a place in a good shave soap rotation.

 

[ShaveTry]

SHAVING TEST
Type: One soap, two razors
Razors: Mach 3 vs. Fusion 5

Soap: WSP Mahogany (WSPM a finalist in the Eastern Bracket Soap Competition here: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...de-tests-of-quot-Top-Rated-quot-Shaving-Soaps

The soap was slightly bloomed, lathered in dish, and dripped into a warmed scuttle. Start time: 12pm with 40+ hours beard.

Test method: Shave one side face with Mach 3 using WSPM Soap, the other side w/ Fusion 5 and WSPM. Basically a 3-pass shave plus minor touch-up. Looking for around 2 strokes per facial area per pass.

Scent: 5/5. Just an insanely novel scent. I’ve “loved it from first sniff” and still find it amazing. It’s very similar to Fougere Santal by Reef Point if you like that. Definitely in the strongly-scented category and due to the sexiness is probably not appropriate for all professional settings.

Lather: 4-4.5/5. Quite rich and thick, somewhat moreso than Tabac and just short of a Mikes or CRSW. Whips up real fast after a little bloom and applies very evenly.

Glide: 3-3.5/5. Solidly above average, nothing super-exceptional.

Residual slickness: 3.5/5. Very interesting as this soap definitely permits some additional strokes, but it doesn’t lay down a “slick film” or “stringy, slippery goo” that some of the others do. It’s as though this soap gives you enough RS without being so slick that it can impede the blade contacting the skin at the base of the beard. We’ll see.

Nicks: The M3 was probably 4+/5, with one tiniest micro-dot on the chin and 1 or 2 on the upper lip. None on neck. No real bleeders. The F5 was as good or better on the face but yielded one micro on the neck. Somehow overall I think the nick score was better with the F5, probably closer to 4.5.

Sensitivity and comfort: With both blades I might have felt a transitory mild burn at some point in the shave. Post-shave not really noticeable. These were very close shaves so there might be some of that “extreme closeness” sensitivity. No immediate tingling, dryness, or numbness noted. Will continue to monitor.

Closeness: Immediately post shave the F5 side feels a bit closer. And there weren’t many touch up strokes there. This is novel as WSPM is a richer creamier soap, but it may be the first super-rich one that actually did better in the F5. Will continue to monitor in the coming hours.

Post-shave impressions: Scent is the best for a strong, unique and sexy scent you don’t come across everyday. Lather rich, RS interesting for sufficiency without slick residual goo. A small stubble patch seems detectable with deep palpation on M3 side, whereas the F5 side is smooth to the beard base. Interesting b/c this is a richer lather that seems to do as well or better on the F5 side, at least at zero hours.

3 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0-0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = Solid 1 stubble, unmistakable, especially central rt cheek despite several touch-up strokes. Extreme comfort, almost feels moisturized.

3 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0.5-1 stubble, sparse small fields, but palpable. Also moisturized feel, perhaps slightly sensitive relative to the M3 but very tolerable.

5.5 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0-0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = Solid 1+ stubble, unmistakable, especially central rt cheek despite several touch-up strokes. Neck area continues to feel well-shaven. Extreme “moisturized” comfort continues.

5.5 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 1 stubble, small contiguous field left lower central cheek. Very comfortable with moisturized feel.

8 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0.5-1 stubble. Deep palpation = 2+ stubble. Continues very comfortable. Barest visible specks of stubble here and there along lower jawline, otherwise still very clean-shaven look on M3 side.

8 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Still no meaningful whisps of stubble on light palpation with the F5. Deep palpation = 1-2 stubble. Continues very comfortable. No significant visible stubble on F5 side.

9 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0.5-1 stubble. Deep palpation = 2-3 stubble. Continues very comfortable. Still very clean-shaven with few stubble specks visible.

9 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 1.5-2 stubble. Has held that great “moisturized” feel throughout. Very clean shaven with barest stubble pre-specks visible only on close-up inspection. Otherwise continues great clean look at 9+ hours.

10 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 – 0.5 stubble, still nearly imperceptible. Deep palpation, 2 stubble. Comfort is great. Remains very clean shaven without even a pattern of stubble specks emerging at this point. M3 side: approaching it’s useful life for super clean-shaven. Still not much visible stubble, but just enough. Palpable at a solid 3 ATG at this point.

11 hours, F5: Still very acceptable no meaningful visibility of stubble.

15 hours, F5: Light palpation is still at 1+ stubble with very little visibility.

Summary: I frankly loved this shave. Scent is unbeatable for a loud, strong fragrance. Great lather consistency. Glide and RS without so much slippery and stringy residue. Interestingly both M3 and F5 delivered a good shave, and F5 a great shave. And it’s a rich cream that works great with the F5, a relatively rare combo in these experiments.

Result: This soap and razor combo will definitely move on to our Olympic Trials as a representative of the Eastern Bracket.

 

[ShaveTry]

SHAVING TEST
Type: One soap, two razors
Razors: Mach 3 vs. Fusion 5

Soap: Castle & Forbes Lavender (CFL a finalist in the Western Bracket Soap Competition here: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...ed-quot-Soaps-Western-Bracketology?highlight=
The soap was lathered in a warmed scuttle. Start time: 230pm with 40+ hours beard.

Test method: Shave one side face with Mach 3 using CFL Soap, the other side w/ Fusion 5 and CFL. Basically a 3-pass shave plus minor touch-up. Looking for around 2 strokes per facial area per pass.

Scent: Diff to score. This soap is in the mild to mild-moderate category. My wife walked in and said “that smells great”, so who am I to argue? To me it’s a bit delicate and inoffensive. Doesn’t really have a “signature” quality to it but nothing not to like. Appropriate for all settings and it’s nice to have one or more soaps you can wear anywhere.

Lather: also a bit difficult to score in the sense this soap is extremely titrable. I find the best shaving consistency for it is in the 3-3.5/5 range but it can be whipped up with less H2O into about any thickness you want. I find it quite “stiff” at those upper levels however. It seems to lack the “oils and creams” that other products add. That’s not a bad thing necessarily, just goes to the nature of the soap.

Glide: 3.5-4/5. Very solid with easy shave strokes, no tugs at all.

Residual slickness: 3.5-4/5. Also nicely slick without laying down a layer of slippery residue.

Nicks: Just exceptional. Literally zero nicks with the M3 (despite the queasy feeling of the blades), and just one micro above upper lip with the F5. So overall a solid 4.5/5.

Sensitivity and comfort: During shave no sensitivity at all from the soap. There was a squeamish feeling with the M3 because (as with some other soaps in these trials), I could literally feel the separate M3 blades (and the gaps between them) sliding across my face. Immediately post-shave there was no sensitivity. Passes slap test both sides, no apparent dryness. Interestingly, the F5 side is often a tad more sensitive, perhaps due to the extra blades, but that wasn’t the case with this soap.

Closeness: Immediately post shave the sides feel very similar with the M3 perhaps being slightly closer. Will continue to monitor in the coming hours.

Post-shave impressions: Delicate scent that the wife really likes, appropriate anywhere. Nice rich “adjustable” lather. Great glide and RS. Zero sensitivity. All of that is quite excellent, now to watch closeness and long-term comfort.

1 hour, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0 stubble. Very comfortable with no sensitivity. No dryness but no marked moisturization either.
1 hour, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0 - 0.5 stubble, with very sparse stubble field detected with deep palpation along upper sideburn axis. Similar comfort to M3.

2 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0.5-1 stubble, sparse patch left lower cheek. Great comfort, neither dry nor moisturized.
2 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0.5-1 stubble, very similar perhaps slightly more apparent than M3. Great comfort as with M3. If anything the F5 side may be slightly more comfortable.

5 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 to 0.5 stubble, negligible. Deep palpation = 1+ stubble. Super comfortable
5 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 to 0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = 1-2 stubble, slightly more than M3. Great comfort as with M3.

8 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0.5 to 1 stubble. Deep palpation = 2 stubble. Super comfort
8 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0.5 to 1 stubble. Deep palpation = 2-3 stubble.

9 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0.5 to 1 stubble. Deep palpation = 2-2+ stubble. Super comfort. Very minor visible stubble specks, still overall quite clean-shaven look.
9 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0.5 to 1 stubble. Deep palpation = 2-3 stubble. Few more visible stubble specks, probably approaching the limit of clean shaven look with F5 in the 9-10 hour range.

12 hours out: Visible stubble has erased clean-shaven look both sides. M3 had useful life of about 10-11 hours, F5 had around 9-10 hours.

Summary: Memorable for delicate scent, rich lather, glide and RS without slime, and perhaps most of all outstanding nick protection. Comfort also solid, perhaps not as “moisturizing” a feel as some. Duration of clean-shave was a solid 10 hours+ with the M3. Given the zero nicks with the M3 it would be my go-to instrument for this soap.

Notable: This shave was in many ways similar to the recent test of Antica Barbieria Colla in the Eastern bracket: mild scent, queasy feel of the M3. Difference: the CFL was much more protective vs. the nicks with ABC. I need a low to low-moderate scented soap, and CFL is an easy victor over ABC, another reason to retain it from the Western Bracket and drop ABC from the Eastern bracket.

Result: This soap and razor combo will remain in the running in the Finals of the Western bracket for possible inclusion in the Olympic finals.

 

[ShaveTry]

SHAVING TEST
Type: One soap, two razors
Razors: Mach 3 vs. Fusion 5

Soap: CRSW Bois Floraux (CRSWBF a finalist in the Western Bracket Soap Competition here: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...ed-quot-Soaps-Western-Bracketology?highlight=
The soap was lathered in a warmed scuttle. Start time: 6pm with 36+ hours beard.

Test method: Shave one side face with Mach 3 using CRSW Soap, the other side w/ Fusion 5 and CRSW. Basically a 3-pass shave plus minor touch-up. Looking for around 2 strokes per facial area per pass.

Scent: I’ved used this soap multiple times and while I find the scent “interesting” I just don’t love it. Finally figured out there’s this annoying “smoky” backnote that doesn’t fit (for my preferences) with the floral front notes. Is that vetiver or frankincense? Just something a hint smoky. That said, a lot of people rave about this. It’s immaterial b/c today we’re testing the soap not the fragrance and the CRSW has a lot of options. Bottom line: don’t hate the scent and would definitely use it, but wouldn’t be the first one I reach for.

Lather: 4.75-5/5. Just about as close to a benchmark rich creamy lather as there is. I notice the ingredients are similar, probably not identical to Mike’s Naturals and some others: “tallow, lanolin, Kokum and Shea”. And they all tend to produce MOL this type lather.

Glide: 2.5-3/5. A solid average or slightly above. Actually seems to have more residual slickness than initial glide. A bit more glide with the M3 (3ish) than the F5 (2.5ish), as the F5 actually tugged a bit on the initial strokes

Residual slickness: 3.5-4/5. Real solid, lays down a sheen of slippery lightly stringy goo that supports multiple additional shave strokes after the initial lather is shaved off.

Nicks: 4.75-5/5. As good as it gets. Zero nicks, and I hunted up and down to find even the tiniest micro… zilch. Doesn’t get any better, and this held for both M3 and F5. The drawback sometimes is “the more protection, the less closeness”, we’ll see.

Sensitivity and comfort: M3: During shave basically no sensitivity and with this richer soap I didn’t feel the separate M3 blades the way I sometimes have with other soaps. F5 also very comfortable. Somehow the M3 side may have been slightly more comfortable of the two. That has often been the case which I attribute to having 2 fewer blades scraping your beard off. Not that the F5 is absolutely uncomfortable in itself by any means, just that here the M3 felt a bit more comfortable.

Closeness: Immediately post shave it’s not worth distinguishing. Basically feels equal. Curiously, sometimes the F5 feels closer without actually being closer (i.e. not having any more or less actual stubble). Again attributable to having more blades across your skin. At zero hours there may be a slight “moisturized” feel to this.

Post-shave impressions: Ridiculous perfect lather. Zero nicks, near-perfect comfort. Easy residual slickness. Just a lot of positive high-scoring impressions.

3 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0.5 stubble. Comfort great. Neither particularly moisturizing or dry feel.
3 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation 0.5-1 stubble. Good comfort, perhaps not quite as much as M3.

4 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0.5+ stubble
4 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0.5-1 stubble, continues very comfortable, perhaps M3 slightly more so.

5 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 1 stubble.
5 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 1 stubble

8 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 to 0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = 2 stubble. 0 stubble visibility, very clean look
8 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 to 0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = 2 stubble. 0 visibility

9.5 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 to 0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = 2 stubble. Remains very clean look. Notably, the M3 neck is still ½ to 1 to palpation, excellent closeness in difficult area.
9.5 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = 2+-3 stubble. Minor stubble specks you have to strain to see.

11 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 to 0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = 2-3 stubble.
11 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 to 0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = 2+-3 stubble.

14 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 1+ stubble.
14 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 1 stubble.

Summary: The F5 side has small micro-puffs of visible stubble vs. nearly none at 11 hours. So a useful super-clean look on this soap and razor combo is probably in the 11-12 hour range. The M3 side perhaps 1 hour more visible stubble, so useful life at least 10-11 hours. The M3 side was slightly more comfortable (less sensitive) throughout. Both sides superior nick protection.

Result: Excellent overall shave with CRSWBF using both blades. This soap and razor combo will remain in the running in the Finals of the Western bracket for possible inclusion in the Olympic finals.

 

[ShaveTry]

SHAVING TEST
Type: One soap, two razors
Razors: Mach 3 vs. Fusion 5

Soap: Body Shop Maca Root (BSMR a finalist in the Western Bracket Soap Competition here: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...ed-quot-Soaps-Western-Bracketology?highlight=
The soap was lathered in a warmed scuttle. Start time: 1130am with 40+ hours beard.

Test method: Shave one side face with Mach 3 using BSMR Soap, the other side w/ Fusion 5 and BSMR. Basically a 3-pass shave plus minor touch-up. Looking for around 2 strokes per facial area per pass.

Scent: Very mild scent. Don’t love or hate it. Wear anywhere.

Lather: 3.5-4/5. Rich but lacks the “milky-creaminess” quality of the soaps at the far end of the spectrum.

Glide: 4/5. Really facilitates initial shave strokes, no tugging even with thick beard growth.

Residual slickness: 3.5-4/5. Slick without laying down a film of stringy goo.

Nicks: 4.75-5/5 with the F-5, literally no nicks. 3.5/5 with the M3 for a micro-nick on the chin and a small neck scrape.

Sensitivity and comfort: No sensitivity, burning, tingling, or numbness noted during shave, even with the F-5 which often will turn in slightly more sensitive results just due to the extra 2 blades.

Closeness: See hourly tracking below

Post-shave impressions: Mild scent which can be worn anywhere. Slick without slippery goo strings. No sensitivity during shave. Great nick protection with the F5, not so much with the M3.

1.5 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0-0.5 stubble.
1.5 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0 stubble. At 1.5 hours the F5 side feels slightly more comfortable and the M3 has a very mild lingering sensitivity. Neither drying or moisturizing.

5.5 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep = 2 stubble
5.5 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep = 1-2 stubble. F5 seems slightly closer and slightly more comfortable.

8.5 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0- 0.5 stubble. Deep = 2-3 stubble.
8.5 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0- 0.5 stubble. Deep = 2-3 stubble. No significant stubble visibility either side at this point.

10 hours, M3: Lt palpation = 0.5 stubble, deep = 2+-3.
10 hours, F5: Lt palpation = 0.5 stubble, deep also 2+-3

11 hours. Sides continue very similar, light palpation = 1, deep = 2+-3. Closeness essentially equal. Misc. stubble beginning to appear and the shave is reaching useful life. The clean shaven duration for this soap is around 10-11 hours for both blades.

Summary: Both blade systems were very comfortable and closeness is MOL a tie at around 11 hours useful duration for clean shaven look. Overall the F5 probably performed a bit better given the better nick score. This soap is in the very mild scent category and will probably compete in the Olympics alongside other unscented to mildly scented products such as Tabac and Castle and Forbes Lavender.

Result: This soap and razor combo will definitely move on to our Olympic Trials as a representative of the Western Bracket.

 

[paintflinger]

I think the big problem I have with your test is that it assumes that certain soaps are thicker when lathered than others.

The lather is how you make it. I can lather up the thickest lather you've ever seen or I can run the thinnest lather possible...all with the same soap.

Otherwise I think the test is fine and you're basically testing whether a thinner or thicker lather affects cart shaves. That test could be done with one soap.

 

[ShaveTry]

SHAVING TEST
Type: One soap, two razors
Razors: Mach 3 vs. Fusion 5

Soap: Mystic Water Poggio dei Pini (MWPP a competitor in the Northern Bracket Soap Competition here: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...-rated-quot-shave-soaps-Northern-Bracketology

The soap was lathered in a warmed scuttle. Start time: 1230pm with 30+ hours beard.
Test method: Shave one side face with Mach 3 using MWPP Soap, the other side w/ Fusion 5 and MWPP. Basically a 3-pass shave plus minor touch-up. Looking for around 2 strokes per facial area per pass.

Scent: 5/5. For me this fragrance has everything: gentlemanly, “barbery”, sexy and unique. In every way a “signature” scent, classic yet modern. The only drawback it’s on the fence as far as wearing in a professional setting; may be just slightly too loud or sexy. At the least, could be worn to the office occasionally.

Lather: 2.5/5. Right on the fence between “sudsy” and “rich and creamy”. If anything leaning to sudsy. And this is regardless of the mix of soap and water. Applies somewhat unevenly and tends to dissipate in the scuttle over time. None of this is critical to me if it delivers a close, comfortable shave, we’ll see. The key for this “molecular” test is that this soap is unquestionably a “thinner consistency” product.

Glide: 2.5/5. Right around average. Might have been slight initial tugs with the M3, a bit more glide with the F5, but nothing exceptional one way or the other.

Residual slickness: 3/5. Average or slightly above RS, without stringy goo.

Nicks: 4/5 with the M3 which yielded 2 micros above upper lip, none on chin or neck. Also didn’t “broadcast” the feel of the separate M3 blades as some soaps have, which is a plus. At least as good with the F5 (one micro on lip, none elsewhere), so I’d boost that to 4.5-ish, perhaps 4-4.25/ 5 overall.

Sensitivity and comfort: There was a slight bit of tingling on application but in hindsight that was probably the suds bubbles popping. Otherwise no significant stinging, numbness, or dryness during the shave.

Closeness: Immediately post-shave the F5 feels slightly closer, as in down to the stubble root and skin. See hourly tracking below

Post-shave impressions: Killer scent. If there was ever a soap I would consider putting through on fragrance alone, this would be a contender. Thinnish “sudsy” style lather, very good nick protection. F5 seems slightly closer.

2 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0.5-1 stubble on right lower central cheek and jawline, despite multiple passes.
2 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0- 0.5 stubble. Decidedly closer than the M3 with similar comfort. Face feels neither dry or particularly moisturized, perhaps slightly to the moisturized side.

4 hours, M3 side: Light palpation ATG = 0-0.5 stubble. Deep palpation = 1+-2 stubble despite multiple passes. M3 is really hopeless after only 4 hours!
4 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 0.5 stubble, scattered. Very smooth and reasonably well-moisturized feel.

7 hours, F5 side: Light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep palpation = 1 stubble, scattered. Very smooth feel, super-clean with no visible stubble.

8 hours, F5 side: ditto 7 hours. Zero visible stubble, super-clean look and comfortable feel.

9 hours, F5 side: light palpation ATG = 0 stubble. Deep = 1-2 stubble. Still zero visibility.

11 hours. Minor visibility of scattered stubble starting to appear. Useful duration of clean shaven look with the F5 is 10-11 hours.
Summary: This soap is easily in my pantheon of great soap fragrances and as such really makes for a spa-like experience. I’d be very comfortable with this as a personal signature scent. Only functional in the F5 as the M3 results were disappointing. Given the thinner, sudsy texture this is consistent with the idea that thinner soap lathers will do better in the 5-blade F5, although we’ve seen some exceptions to that idea in these tests.

Result: This soap with the F5 razor will advance as a possible finalist in the Northern Bracket