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Infinite-grit honing.doable?

OK, big boys-o-duh-club. Here are the ingredients:
  1. me, after sanding an ERN blade for a gazillionth time, wondering how to get the 2500-grit scratches out.
  2. having read the back of Flitz that says "no abrasives" added to the product.
  3. Trying Brasso (knew it wouldn't work), then Mothers Mag 3-4 times, then Flitz
  4. sitting back and calling it done, after using the dremel red paste, then mothers / flitz again.
  5. thinking about all these different honing methods and when it's considered polishing vs. finishing vs. whatever.

Well heck, people. So, I tried it.

  • Take 1 shave-ready-from-a-coti GD that pops hairs easy post-stropping.
  • stick the edge under 100x scope from radio shack...looks normal.
  • Add a large dose of "lets think out of the box"
  • spew a goodly dose of Flitz on a lapped, slurry-free wet coti (ok, did I just get banned from *here*? :lol: )
  • give it 20 laps on flitz-ified coti over a sink
  • realize you didn't think about needing to cleanup and flitz ain't water soluble, so liquid handsoap the razor and coti to get it all off
  • carefully dry off razor
  • stick it under the scope again

The scratch pattern is still there, but I swear the bevel is brighter now in the little scope. Of course it very well might just be the light angle, but it still pops hair nicely.

Step 2: the flitz bottle says that you don't need to rub it.....ok. So I just ran a bead of Flitz along the bevel (both sides), waited about 30 seconds, then washed it off with soap as before. Looks the same to me...didn't remove any scratches, but still plenty bright.

So, then I thought that if flitz works by chemically reacting with the sharp edges of minute scratches to help level them out and make them less visible, it might actually be reacting with the sharp edge of the razor as well as polishing the scratches on the bevel itself. I suppose it is a "race" between the two.

another thing the bottle says is that it leaves behind a protective film on the metal. This is definitely true, as post-flitzing, the steel is quite a bit more hydrophobic (water-hating). I wonder if that "coating" might work like a poor-man's coating on the edges of retail blades to improve the glide.

Shave test tomorrow, but I'd love to hear y'alls thoughts about doing chemistry on the edge of the razor *after* all is said and done on the hones.
 
Interesting! I've always had this thought in the back of my mind. If one effect of stropping is to remove oxidization from the edge, would Flitz or Maas do the same thing with some added protection?

I look forward to your shave test.
 
Wonder if the flitz is toxic if you cut yourself. Just something to think about.

true, certainly. Thus the washing with soap. and I think I'll wash it again before trying it to be on the safe side...which of course brings into question the whole point, since now you have to wonder if the soap has done anything to the edge. Maybe some mineral oil first, since it probably is soluble in that, in case of any traces are hanging around.

thanks for the extra warning!
 
If you search there is a couple threads probably 3 years old now or so on using Maas polish on different materials with some success but Flitz is useless.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Have you thought about trying a piece of aluminum or magnesium or some other soft metal, finished smooth, with very fine diamond or CBN slurry applied?

Wacky ideas about contaminating your coti won't get you banned from here, but spies from elsewhere are probably reporting you to their masters right now. :eek:(
 
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