In praise of: Aramis Devin

[margor64peroez]

As Autumn arrives I gravitate towards darker scents. One of my favourites is Aramis Devin - which they describe as a country cologne, whatever that may be. It's a Chypre fragrance by Bernard Chant that was first launched in 1977, it was popular for a while and indeed won an award but is now I suppose, like the Chevalier D'Orsay cologne about which I wrote here earlier this month, something of a niche fragrance.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Artemisia, Lemon
Middle Notes: Jasmin, Carnation, Pine, Thyme, Cinnamon
Base notes: Leather, Olibanum, Cedarwood, Amber, Musk, Moss, Patchouli, Labdanum



It starts very strongly, for the first few minutes it's actually a bit harsh and on some can smell bitter, but it very quickly becomes a well-rounded somewhat woodsy chypre with leather undertones which just gets smoother and smoother. For me (like all the Aramis scents) it's got good sillage and longevity, somewhere between 4 to 6 hours depending on temperature and what I'm doing, with the last hour or so being a very mellow leather. If you search around it's reasonably priced. If you liked Polo or Halston Z-14 you'll probably like this, to my mind it works better than either of them. I wouldn't wear it to work, but for autumn and winter weekends it's perfect. For some reason or another I seem to always wear it on Christmas Eve. It's a complex and well-balanced scent that after the first few minutes leaves many of its thinner, more expensive, and 'modern', successors gasping in the dust.

 

[ciderguy]

I've liked all of the Aramis scents I've tried so far. I haven't tried this one yet.

 

[Ajwien]

I just had this arrive in the mail this past Friday. Wore it once so far, enjoyed it. Plan to wear it again tomorrow for further assessment. Silage and longevity were average at best for the initial wearing, but then again, most things are on me. Scent is sharp and definitely suits the welcoming Autumn weather here in Michigan this week.

 

[margor64peroez]

I've liked all of the Aramis scents I've tried so far. I haven't tried this one yet.

I hope you'll like it. It stands out a bit from the other Aramis scents, its' definitely an Autumn/Winter scent for me. I'm equally happy wearing it during the day at weekends or at home in the evenings, or for a relaxed family dinner or a night out.

 

[margor64peroez]

I just had this arrive in the mail this past Friday. Wore it once so far, enjoyed it. Plan to wear it again tomorrow for further assessment. Silage and longevity were average at best for the initial wearing, but then again, most things are on me. Scent is sharp and definitely suits the welcoming Autumn weather here in Michigan this week.

Sillage and longevity are such personal variables - I agree with you about the sharpness, although it mellows considerably and very pleasingly both for me and for my son. I know what you mean about it suiting the Autumn weather - I think you'll like it even more as the Winter deepens.

 

[Ajwien]

Sillage and longevity are such personal variables - I agree with you about the sharpness, although it mellows considerably and very pleasingly both for me and for my son. I know what you mean about it suiting the Autumn weather - I think you'll like it even more as the Winter deepens.

That's what I was getting at about silage and longevity, YMMV for sure. I was responding while trying to get my 3 month old son to settle in so I left out that I meant to say it starts sharp and mellows rather quickly. I didn't quite get the leather or pine scent I was expecting. Much more subtle but pleasant none the less.

 

[margor64peroez]

I was responding while trying to get my 3 month old son to settle in

Congratulations on his arrival - I'm both a father to twins and a grandfather to twins so I do know the feeling of trying to get them settle! May he have a long life filled with goodness, good health, happiness, and contentment.

 

[Ajwien]

Congratulations on his arrival - I'm both a father to twins and a grandfather to twins so I do know the feeling of trying to get them settle! May he have a long life filled with goodness, good health, happiness, and contentment.

Thank you. He has been easier than my oldest son so far, who will be 2 in a few weeks. However, I have trained my oldest to enjoy all things shaving and fragrance - He inheritors my wife's Parker razor which she doesn't like. He pretend shaves with it.He also has his own mini bottle of Cool Water and Old Spice, which he wears under my supervision.

 

[Ad Astra]

Sounds like something I'd like- with those notes, is it anything like Bogart?

Aramis Havana certainly rocks; the only bay rum cologne I like. Also want to try Aramis Tuscany.


AA


EDIT: http://www.basenotes.net/ID26120450.html

It's got to be close to Polo Green ...

 

[guyakaguy]

Pretty much every Aramis product has been on my to-try list or my secret wish list. They mostly seem to be well constructed fragrances that have remained as true to original (as per reviews of those that know) as possible while accommodating for the IFRA standards, aka allergies (defeating nature's own backlash against overpopulation, IMO).

Although I like Polo and Z-14, and would probably enjoy the hell out of Devin, my wife probably would not. I got the opportunity to re-sample (after having not tried in about a decade) Polo from a coworker one afternoon last winter. When I got home, about 7 hours later, I was told that I stunk like a conference room at 9:00 AM that a bunch of middle-aged men wafted into.

I may just end up snatching up a bunch of these stronger chypre fragrances for winter use to see if they dry down to a grandmother's floral-y urine-y bathroom on my skin over the colder months, and maybe my wife will get used to them. Hopefully. So long as the florals are of the dry/herbal-y variety and the musk is the soapy kind and not the old-timey sweet stuff they stick in the stuff older women bathe in so you gag when you get in an elevator.

 

[margor64peroez]

Sounds like something I'd like- with those notes, is it anything like Bogart?

AA


EDIT: http://www.basenotes.net/ID26120450.html

It's got to be close to Polo Green ...

As I've never tried Bogart I can't help you with that. Yes, I've heard it compared to Polo Green, I can see what people mean when they say it. If you liked Polo Green then I think it highly probable you'll like this.

 

[margor64peroez]

Although I like Polo and Z-14, and would probably enjoy the hell out of Devin, my wife probably would not. I got the opportunity to re-sample (after having not tried in about a decade) Polo from a coworker one afternoon last winter. When I got home, about 7 hours later, I was told that I stunk like a conference room at 9:00 AM that a bunch of middle-aged men wafted into.

I may just end up snatching up a bunch of these stronger chypre fragrances for winter use to see if they dry down to a grandmother's floral-y urine-y bathroom on my skin over the colder months, and maybe my wife will get used to them. Hopefully. So long as the florals are of the dry/herbal-y variety and the musk is the soapy kind and not the old-timey sweet stuff they stick in the stuff older women bathe in so you gag when you get in an elevator.

If you want a really old-fashioned Chypre and I do mean really old-fashioned that doesn't last (alas) then you should try the Russian Cologne Novaya zarya Chypre. It was launched in 1889 (see what I mean about old-fashioned?). It's a real old cologne - in other words it's meant to refresh and brace the skin and then to go away the job having been done. So by modern standards both projection and the longevity are poor it won't last more than about 15 minutes on your skin. It dries down to a very powdery scent which some feel is somewhat feminine. I don't agree - it's a classic woodsy, greeny, cologne, formulated in a different era for a different sensibility. I use it a lot as a pleasant bracer after a shower and shave. If the did an EPD or even an EDT of it I would pay heavily and happily. As it is you'll get it very very cheaply on Ebay. My strong recommendation is that you buy only it. A lot of sellers offer it in combination with other more modern concoctions some of which are truly rank.

Try some of these searches:

Russian Chypre

Novaya Zarya Chypre

Шипр

and do some clicking - you should be able to pick up a bottle for anything from US$2 (yes really two dollars) upwards. Shipping for me to Denmark is anything from $US6 to US$10 so I expect that it wouldn't be much more for you.

I use this dealer: http://www.ebay.com/usr/vyatko?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 (note to moderator that's not an auction listing).
I find him very helpful, honest, and reliable and have bought from him repeatedly. I've said as much in his feedbck section (same user name as here). Aleksandr also packs well. Who ever you buy from (if you do) make sure on the listing that this is what the bottle looks like.
View attachment 692056



Hope some or all of that was helpful.

PS: Whatever you do don't buy the Polish version of this cologne. It manages to be simultaneously boring and unpleasant.

 

[margor64peroez]

Hmmm actually I think I'll turn that comment into a full review of Novaya Zarya Chypre ( Шипр ). It's one of those hidden gems.

 

[guyakaguy]

If you want a really old-fashioned Chypre and I do mean really old-fashioned that doesn't last (alas) then you should try the Russian Cologne Novaya zarya Chypre. It was launched in 1889 (see what I mean about old-fashioned?). It's a real old cologne - in other words it's meant to refresh and brace the skin and then to go away the job having been done. So by modern standards both projection and the longevity are poor it won't last more than about 15 minutes on your skin. It dries down to a very powdery scent which some feel is somewhat feminine. I don't agree - it's a classic woodsy, greeny, cologne, formulated in a different era for a different sensibility. I use it a lot as a pleasant bracer after a shower and shave. If the did an EPD or even an EDT of it I would pay heavily and happily. As it is you'll get it very very cheaply on Ebay. My strong recommendation is that you buy only it. A lot of sellers offer it in combination with other more modern concoctions some of which are truly rank.

Try some of these searches:

Russian Chypre

Novaya Zarya Chypre

Шипр

and do some clicking - you should be able to pick up a bottle for anything from US$2 (yes really two dollars) upwards. Shipping for me to Denmark is anything from $US6 to US$10 so I expect that it wouldn't be much more for you.

I use this dealer: http://www.ebay.com/usr/vyatko?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 (note to moderator that's not an auction listing).
I find him very helpful, honest, and reliable and have bought from him repeatedly. I've said as much in his feedbck section (same user name as here). Aleksandr also packs well. Who ever you buy from (if you do) make sure on the listing that this is what the bottle looks like.
View attachment 692056



Hope some or all of that was helpful.

PS: Whatever you do don't buy the Polish version of this cologne. It manages to be simultaneously boring and unpleasant.

Thanks, but no thanks. Powdery is a scent that may get along with others, but not me. I'm trying to avoid the Eau De Grandma's Bathroom powdery scents.

The chypres I enjoy have a wood-y scent when they dry down.