How to start up a NOS Heljestrand

[kohalajohn]

First of all ,thanks to Arne for very helpful advice in buying my very first Swedish razor. Just ordered from Ebay.

I hear Swedish steel is quite hard. So am asking for advice on honing.

It is NOS, so I am assuming I don't have to worry about the lower ends of honing and can go straight to finishing.

I mean I don't plan to set the bevel or use 4k or 8k or even my Nani 12k. I plan to go straight to my pasted balsa, .5u, .25u, .1u. Probably a large number of laps the first time.

Thoughts and ideas appreciated.

 

[Doc226]

I always start form a bevel set, you need to start with a good foundation, otherwise it is just make up on a pig

4K should be good enough as long as the bevel on it is close, from there move up the progression.

 

[Matt O]

Ummmm...I would start with my Chosera 1k in order to ensure that the bevel is 100% set and right. If you don’t verify, then you don’t know. I would want to make sure it is spot on. Then I would progress to 4k, 8k, 12k, and a natural finisher.

I check the bevel near the edge with my 10x and 30x loupe at every step before moving to the next one.

Vr

Matt

 

[njtnjt]

What these guys said ^^^

 

[Christian1212]

I would first give it a very good stropping! After that is done see how it pop hairs, maybe it just needs a bit of 8k work and finishing or maybe a whole bevel reset

 

[Eastcoast30]

Make up on a pig - I like that! I've had that same question about NOS. Thanks. I'm thinking that if it does not pop hairs or slice a cherry tomato nicely, I will go with 1k. Otherwise 4k.

 

[JohnEzra]

I would first examine it closely under my microscope, and go from there depending on how it looks. I typically start NOS stuff on the 3k, but if the bevel is really bad I’ll just do a full progression starting with a 1k.

I’ve had a few that were pretty good, and I probably could have gotten away with starting on the 8k, but still started on the 3k because I want to know for sure that the bevel is properly set, and the foundation is solid.

 

[stone and strop]

Always start a new razor with a bevel set IMO.
Know what you are starting with.

 

[Tomo]

If you have to ask and it’s a rare NOS item, you should probably send it out to a trusted professional.

I recently received a NOS Filly that needed some work to get to shave ready. I’ve done a bit of honing but am still no expert. Getting a full bevel the length of the blade was a challenge. I got there but feel like I put a bit too much wear in the blade.

These are not the razors to learn on. Once they are set up, maintenance is easy. Getting them there is a different skills which most people don’t practice often.

 

[Tomo]

My biggest mistake was wanting to do as little as possible. Had I gotten in and corrected the smile from the beginning, I would have been better off. We live and learn. Some razors are best left to those that have already made their mistakes.

 

[kohalajohn]

Looks like the consensus is do the full job. I'll go with that.

And Tomo makes a good point about being more careful when it's a high end razor.

I've got the gear for a progression (atoma 1200 plate, norton 4k/8k and a Nani 12k) and have done it on plain razors, but in the past when I got a very special razor, I just forwarded it directly to Alfredo just to be sure.

Hell, I may even have the seller just send it to Alfredo in the first place. Save shipping.

 

[kohalajohn]

Alfredo, would that work for you? Right now it would go from Florida to me in the west coast of Canada and then back to you in RI.

It may be wise to save a step.

 

[KW Driver]

so yeah... when it's your turn, the steel is very hard, like some French and most stainless. you just need to spend a bit more time at each grit. do the work that needs doing, then move up. nothing magical, just slower.

 

[kohalajohn]

Ok, so I've ordered the razor and had it shipped straight to Alfredo. He will do his thing and forward it to me.

I enjoy bevel setting and honing my basic razors. And with my two years experience I do fine. But fancy vintage razors, they should go to someone with decades under their belt.

And eventually that will be me. But not yet.

 

[Polarbeard]

Ok, so I've ordered the razor and had it shipped straight to Alfredo. He will do his thing and forward it to me.

I enjoy bevel setting and honing my basic razors. And with my two years experience I do fine. But fancy vintage razors, they should go to someone with decades under their belt.

And eventually that will be me. But not yet.

Good decision

 

[global_dev]

I would have at least looked at it under a scope first. Some of my NOS CVHs needed nothing but a stropping.

 

[johnmrson]

Rule #1 of getting a shave ready razor is to make sure it has a well set bevel. If it was me I'd start on a 1k stone so you know that you're not trying to make a silk pure out of a sows ear.

 

[Polarbeard]

I would have at least looked at it under a scope first. Some of my NOS CVHs needed nothing but a stropping.

I've been lucky, both to have some Heljestrand razors that I've bought NOS and that all of them were shave ready, but if you aren't certain and haven't any previous experience in how to make a razor shave ready I wouldn't recommend starting with a NOS Heljestrand. With that exception I totally agree with you.

 

[steveclarkus]

I always start every razor, new or old, with bevel. Why waste time honing a razor that may not have a properly set nevel?

 

[Steve56]

John, your Shapton Glass stones will have no problem cutting the hardest Swedish steel, the HR series was designed to cut the Lie-Nielsen semi-stainless wear-resistant A2 plane steel. The HR will cut similar modern knife steels like SLD equally well.

If you have the 2k HR and 6k HC, you’re set to finish Swedish steel on a decent Jnat. If you have wimpy finishers, you might add the 8k HC ....