So you have been shaving for a while and want to get hold of a really nice brush to elevate the good experience of wet shaving the traditional way? How do you choose which brush to buy for your shaving?
I have been using all known methods of choosing: chaos (buy anything mentioned positively on B&B), buy the legends (known good brushes), try known custom brushes until you find the one for you (aka. the Shavemac line) and buy from an artisan of reputation (Rudy Vey and Lee Sabini). I can happily report that all methods do work, but they do vary in cost.
I will try to comment on some of the brushes that are the results of my efforts. I will not follow my usual method of reviews but rather comment on each brush at a time. This will of course be highly personal. Since I am very particular about the quality of my lather this will be a crucial factor for me when choosing brushes.
My background
I have been DE shaving for 8+ years and part time since 1980.
My way of shaving consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (XTG + ATG), cold water rinse and an AS. I pick up the soap from a puck or a stick directly to my face. I apply extra moisturizer once a week or daily during cold/dry season. I shave every day and all my shaves for the last five years have been BBS in the strictest definition.
For a brush to qualify into my den I have to consider it my desert island brush and furthermore it has to add something unique to the existing mix. No scritch allowed in my den at all!
Limitations of brush reviews
As I see it there are two major drawbacks with brush reviews. Is the brush you are reading about actually available? Is it possible to draw conclusions from other peoples experiences with a brush?
The availability problem, especially with brushes made in small quantities, has to do with the badger hair itself. A manufacturer of brushes either buys the knot pre-built or builds it himself. If he builds it himself he has better control over the consistency of the quality of the knot. If he buys it from a manufacturer there is no way to make certain that the quality remains the same in between batches. Even if he builds the knot himself he has to rely on the quality of the hair from his supplier. Examples of this problem is the Simpsons knot in best badger. It is notorious for its inconsistency over the years, especially compared to Shavemacs extremely consistent knot quality. Both of these manufacturers make their own knots from badger hair that they buy from China. With this in mind it is almost impossible to determine if the brush bought today has the same knot as the one bought last year.
The problem with trying to extrapolate from others experiences regarding brushes lies in the fact that it doesnt work. It does fuel some fierce debates here on B&B but there is really no way that you can translate others experiences to your shaving. Your shaving is unique to you. Furthermore brush reviews seldom contain any info at all about of the shave method used or how experienced the reviewer is. Even if learning from others experiences did work what would be the fun in not finding out for yourself? Would you really be happy with a brush because somebody recommended it?
My main aspects of brushes
After a lot of ad hoc comparisons I focus on these properties in this order when judging a brush. Your method of evaluating will have a different order of course.
Face feeling of the brush on my face is the most important property to me. I dont want any scritch, prickliness or unpleasantness at all! The face feeling of the brush is a determined by its knot, loft (hi low), profile (fan bulb), bristles (synth/horse/boar/badger 2/3 banding), backbone and density. The density is the most elusive characteristic of the knot and commonly not specified in any consistent way from manufacturers and vendors.
Lathering. For me the lather building and release are the second most important characteristics of a brush. The size, loft, material and density of the knot are important properties in this respect. I demand absolute control over the lather creation and the consistency of the lather.
Backbone is dependent on what material the knot is made of and how the loft is set, in height and density. The backbone of a brush is important in assisting to pick up the soap from the puck and spreading it on the face. A weak backbone will result in unintended splaying and potential harming of the brush while building lather.
Knot is responsible for the bloom, and for the amount of water and soap a brush holds.
Handle aesthetics and comfort is a very personal choice. I use all my brushes for face lathering and this usage calls for a rather compact handle. The total height of the brush should not be too tall or it will be uncomfortable to hold to the face.
As you notice I do not consider the price of a brush at all. Suffice to say that most of my brushes are impossible to intellectually defend regarding the price. Most are outrageously expensive and I presume that the readers are aware of this.
The legends
Da Vinci 293 the only to me known brush that can actually do it all. Puck, stick or cream on face or in a bowl, it really does handle it all. Perfect for the undetermined gent. Face feeling is much bigger than the 22 mm knot would suggest. Very nice backbone and firm knot in spite of the high loft. This knot is said to be of Anatolian badger, but who knows?
Kent BK8 the legendary model of softness. The softness is partly because of the tips and partly because of the loft and sparseness of the knot. This is by no means my softest brush and I think the handle is downright uncomfortable. Face feeling is that of a pillow and the lather making and release are splendid. Classic silvertip feeling in this one.
Simpsons Chubby 2 in best badger. This specimen of the Simpsons icon is really soft. It took me seven years to acquire this brush and its from recent production batches. I have no idea if this quality of the knot is available now. The Chubby2 in best is different on the face than any other brush I have used. This brush is scrubby without any trace of scritch. Its not my densest brush and it does hog lather. It picks up soap and builds lather very well. The handle is not very comfortable.
The Shavemac line
Please note that the finest to the right is still wet, the others are dry!
There are three ways to buy Shavemac brushes. You can buy preconfigured brushes (http://www.shavemac.com/Shaving-Brushes ), configurable brushes (http://www.shavemac.com/selfmade.html ) or custom made ones (http://www.shavemac.com/products/Experts/Shaving-Brush-EXPERTS-SELECT.html ).
Use the expertise of Bernd Blos wisely start with the preconfigured to get to the ballpark concerning the measurements. Also note that the configurator gives the most useable measurements for the knots. Use it also wisely. The custom brushes are for very experienced shavers only.
I intentionally leave out the measurements for my Shavemac customs. My shave is not your shave and I dont want to pretend to know what you like. The brushes are divided into two groups, the good (finest, silvertip and 2 band silvertip) and the extreme (both D01 brushes). Do not rush into the latter group!
Finest the entry model. This knot has a blend of silvertip and pure hairs. The face feeling is exquisite in its softness and control of the bulb. This humble entry point into Shavemacs blows all my legendary brushes away. The lather making is second to none of my brushes while maintaining the control over wetness of the lather. The release is extreme for a 3 bander. The handle form is one of my two favorites from Shavemac.
Silvertip the most comfortable brush I own. This is the highlight of the silvertips I have ever used. The brush is also sold in the US as a Savile Row. This specimen replaces my Thäter 3 bander with a more stable bulb and more backbone due to more density in the knot. This brush is perfect for me, as you would expect from the third try The ability to control the lather making in this knot is only surpassed by my Paladin knot. The release of lather is just a little bit more hesitant than in the finest.
2 band silvertip very different compared to the 3 band silvertip above. The measurements for this knot is 24/47 mm and the handle is by Rudy Vey. This is the latest Shavemac knot and a perfect face lathering machine. The lather building is well controlled but needs adjustment compared to the 3 banders above. The release is magnificent even for a 2 bander and the knot presents a pillowy face feeling without losing control. The backbone is marked and will easily pick up even dry triple milled soap.
Silvertip D01 the wall of badger. This brush is everything the Chubby2 is hyped for. It is my densest brush by far, distinctly so. Its also my biggest brush by the face feel. The backbone is marked but relies mainly on the density, not the hairs. The face feeling is that of a wall of badger and the extreme fan holds together very well thus creating the feeling of an indefinite loft. The brush eats soap and releases most of it, the release is of course nothing like the 2 bander above. The knot holds extreme amounts of water but is very easily controlled in regards to lather making. The handle is my favorite from Shavemac, the same octagonal that I had in my Thäters. Please note that the blue marble color is solid on the back side of this handle. This can be seen on the right side of the handle in the picture above.
2 band D01 the most extreme brush I own. The face feeling is markedly scrubby but without any hint of scritch. The backbone is well, somewhere between remarkable and hysterical. Please understand that this brush is not for everybody. This is the most acquired taste you can have in a shaving brush. The measurements are 26/52 mm and the handle is called Bamboo and made by Rudy Vey. If you consider one of these please do not deviate from the 1:2 ratio or you will have a lethal weapon. The brush is pleasurable to use for face lathering and the handle is really comfortable. The control of the lather building is very good and the release is magnificent, even for a 2 bander.
Artisan brushes
The artisan brushes are bought without any user customization at all. Its a blind buy in some sense and has the potential of going terribly wrong. My artisan brushes from Rudy Vey or Dark Holler/M&F are the brushes that made me reconsider my method of buying brushes. These artisans have an ocean of experience with their brushes use this to your advantage. There is no need to complicate shaving! Of course these brushes are also good examples of acquired taste. You can live without them but I would not want to.
Chief by Morris & Forndran. My most loved brush of them all. This is a Group Buy from 2013 organized by ChiefBroom (Ken of Dark Holler). The brush is made by Lee Sabini and is not obtainable any more. The knot is somewhat sparser than an ordinary M&F knot. The face feeling is very soft yet remarkably controlled, probably because of the semi bulb knot.
Paladin PK-47 the heir to the one above. The knot is compact and the handle is the most comfortable I have ever used. Face feeling is extremely controlled and the tips are very soft. The control of lather building is very easy and the release is almost on par with the Chief. This one just might become my new favorite.
Chaos brushes
These are brushes I use for my secret vice in shaving sticks and the 3 piece Gillette vintage classics. I chose them on recommendation on B&B during the last seven years.
Plisson by Cade very soft lather machine with synthetic knot. The high loft works unexpectedly well. Needs a different lathering technique compared to badgers.
Vie-Long horse hair brush with custom knot set to 50 mm loft. Amazingly soft, by far the softest horse hair brush I have tried. Nice backbone and totally scritchfree.
Mühle silvertip the little wonder. Every time this blast from the past comes up in my rotation I ask myself why I bother with my other brushes. The 21 mm knot is very efficient and doesnt waste any lather in the knot. Very sparse knot as they used to be back in the days
Mühle silvertip fibre the 23 mm version of the best fibres available in any synthetic knot. Lathers my travel stick ( LEA) anywhere in the world with any water at any time. The perfect travel brush that took the leap into my den, to my amazement!
Conclusion
There are a number of ways to get hold of nice shaving brushes. These are my different paths into comfortable and effortless shaves. I hope the reader of this post can somehow benefit of my trials.
The important thing to remember is to enjoy your shaves I do enjoy mine a lot!
I have been using all known methods of choosing: chaos (buy anything mentioned positively on B&B), buy the legends (known good brushes), try known custom brushes until you find the one for you (aka. the Shavemac line) and buy from an artisan of reputation (Rudy Vey and Lee Sabini). I can happily report that all methods do work, but they do vary in cost.
I will try to comment on some of the brushes that are the results of my efforts. I will not follow my usual method of reviews but rather comment on each brush at a time. This will of course be highly personal. Since I am very particular about the quality of my lather this will be a crucial factor for me when choosing brushes.
My background
I have been DE shaving for 8+ years and part time since 1980.
My way of shaving consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (XTG + ATG), cold water rinse and an AS. I pick up the soap from a puck or a stick directly to my face. I apply extra moisturizer once a week or daily during cold/dry season. I shave every day and all my shaves for the last five years have been BBS in the strictest definition.
For a brush to qualify into my den I have to consider it my desert island brush and furthermore it has to add something unique to the existing mix. No scritch allowed in my den at all!
Limitations of brush reviews
As I see it there are two major drawbacks with brush reviews. Is the brush you are reading about actually available? Is it possible to draw conclusions from other peoples experiences with a brush?
The availability problem, especially with brushes made in small quantities, has to do with the badger hair itself. A manufacturer of brushes either buys the knot pre-built or builds it himself. If he builds it himself he has better control over the consistency of the quality of the knot. If he buys it from a manufacturer there is no way to make certain that the quality remains the same in between batches. Even if he builds the knot himself he has to rely on the quality of the hair from his supplier. Examples of this problem is the Simpsons knot in best badger. It is notorious for its inconsistency over the years, especially compared to Shavemacs extremely consistent knot quality. Both of these manufacturers make their own knots from badger hair that they buy from China. With this in mind it is almost impossible to determine if the brush bought today has the same knot as the one bought last year.
The problem with trying to extrapolate from others experiences regarding brushes lies in the fact that it doesnt work. It does fuel some fierce debates here on B&B but there is really no way that you can translate others experiences to your shaving. Your shaving is unique to you. Furthermore brush reviews seldom contain any info at all about of the shave method used or how experienced the reviewer is. Even if learning from others experiences did work what would be the fun in not finding out for yourself? Would you really be happy with a brush because somebody recommended it?
My main aspects of brushes
After a lot of ad hoc comparisons I focus on these properties in this order when judging a brush. Your method of evaluating will have a different order of course.
Face feeling of the brush on my face is the most important property to me. I dont want any scritch, prickliness or unpleasantness at all! The face feeling of the brush is a determined by its knot, loft (hi low), profile (fan bulb), bristles (synth/horse/boar/badger 2/3 banding), backbone and density. The density is the most elusive characteristic of the knot and commonly not specified in any consistent way from manufacturers and vendors.
Lathering. For me the lather building and release are the second most important characteristics of a brush. The size, loft, material and density of the knot are important properties in this respect. I demand absolute control over the lather creation and the consistency of the lather.
Backbone is dependent on what material the knot is made of and how the loft is set, in height and density. The backbone of a brush is important in assisting to pick up the soap from the puck and spreading it on the face. A weak backbone will result in unintended splaying and potential harming of the brush while building lather.
Knot is responsible for the bloom, and for the amount of water and soap a brush holds.
Handle aesthetics and comfort is a very personal choice. I use all my brushes for face lathering and this usage calls for a rather compact handle. The total height of the brush should not be too tall or it will be uncomfortable to hold to the face.
As you notice I do not consider the price of a brush at all. Suffice to say that most of my brushes are impossible to intellectually defend regarding the price. Most are outrageously expensive and I presume that the readers are aware of this.
The legends
Da Vinci 293 the only to me known brush that can actually do it all. Puck, stick or cream on face or in a bowl, it really does handle it all. Perfect for the undetermined gent. Face feeling is much bigger than the 22 mm knot would suggest. Very nice backbone and firm knot in spite of the high loft. This knot is said to be of Anatolian badger, but who knows?
Kent BK8 the legendary model of softness. The softness is partly because of the tips and partly because of the loft and sparseness of the knot. This is by no means my softest brush and I think the handle is downright uncomfortable. Face feeling is that of a pillow and the lather making and release are splendid. Classic silvertip feeling in this one.
Simpsons Chubby 2 in best badger. This specimen of the Simpsons icon is really soft. It took me seven years to acquire this brush and its from recent production batches. I have no idea if this quality of the knot is available now. The Chubby2 in best is different on the face than any other brush I have used. This brush is scrubby without any trace of scritch. Its not my densest brush and it does hog lather. It picks up soap and builds lather very well. The handle is not very comfortable.
The Shavemac line
Please note that the finest to the right is still wet, the others are dry!
There are three ways to buy Shavemac brushes. You can buy preconfigured brushes (http://www.shavemac.com/Shaving-Brushes ), configurable brushes (http://www.shavemac.com/selfmade.html ) or custom made ones (http://www.shavemac.com/products/Experts/Shaving-Brush-EXPERTS-SELECT.html ).
Use the expertise of Bernd Blos wisely start with the preconfigured to get to the ballpark concerning the measurements. Also note that the configurator gives the most useable measurements for the knots. Use it also wisely. The custom brushes are for very experienced shavers only.
I intentionally leave out the measurements for my Shavemac customs. My shave is not your shave and I dont want to pretend to know what you like. The brushes are divided into two groups, the good (finest, silvertip and 2 band silvertip) and the extreme (both D01 brushes). Do not rush into the latter group!
Silvertip the most comfortable brush I own. This is the highlight of the silvertips I have ever used. The brush is also sold in the US as a Savile Row. This specimen replaces my Thäter 3 bander with a more stable bulb and more backbone due to more density in the knot. This brush is perfect for me, as you would expect from the third try The ability to control the lather making in this knot is only surpassed by my Paladin knot. The release of lather is just a little bit more hesitant than in the finest.
2 band silvertip very different compared to the 3 band silvertip above. The measurements for this knot is 24/47 mm and the handle is by Rudy Vey. This is the latest Shavemac knot and a perfect face lathering machine. The lather building is well controlled but needs adjustment compared to the 3 banders above. The release is magnificent even for a 2 bander and the knot presents a pillowy face feeling without losing control. The backbone is marked and will easily pick up even dry triple milled soap.
Silvertip D01 the wall of badger. This brush is everything the Chubby2 is hyped for. It is my densest brush by far, distinctly so. Its also my biggest brush by the face feel. The backbone is marked but relies mainly on the density, not the hairs. The face feeling is that of a wall of badger and the extreme fan holds together very well thus creating the feeling of an indefinite loft. The brush eats soap and releases most of it, the release is of course nothing like the 2 bander above. The knot holds extreme amounts of water but is very easily controlled in regards to lather making. The handle is my favorite from Shavemac, the same octagonal that I had in my Thäters. Please note that the blue marble color is solid on the back side of this handle. This can be seen on the right side of the handle in the picture above.
2 band D01 the most extreme brush I own. The face feeling is markedly scrubby but without any hint of scritch. The backbone is well, somewhere between remarkable and hysterical. Please understand that this brush is not for everybody. This is the most acquired taste you can have in a shaving brush. The measurements are 26/52 mm and the handle is called Bamboo and made by Rudy Vey. If you consider one of these please do not deviate from the 1:2 ratio or you will have a lethal weapon. The brush is pleasurable to use for face lathering and the handle is really comfortable. The control of the lather building is very good and the release is magnificent, even for a 2 bander.
Artisan brushes
The artisan brushes are bought without any user customization at all. Its a blind buy in some sense and has the potential of going terribly wrong. My artisan brushes from Rudy Vey or Dark Holler/M&F are the brushes that made me reconsider my method of buying brushes. These artisans have an ocean of experience with their brushes use this to your advantage. There is no need to complicate shaving! Of course these brushes are also good examples of acquired taste. You can live without them but I would not want to.
Chief by Morris & Forndran. My most loved brush of them all. This is a Group Buy from 2013 organized by ChiefBroom (Ken of Dark Holler). The brush is made by Lee Sabini and is not obtainable any more. The knot is somewhat sparser than an ordinary M&F knot. The face feeling is very soft yet remarkably controlled, probably because of the semi bulb knot.
Paladin PK-47 the heir to the one above. The knot is compact and the handle is the most comfortable I have ever used. Face feeling is extremely controlled and the tips are very soft. The control of lather building is very easy and the release is almost on par with the Chief. This one just might become my new favorite.
Chaos brushes
These are brushes I use for my secret vice in shaving sticks and the 3 piece Gillette vintage classics. I chose them on recommendation on B&B during the last seven years.
Plisson by Cade very soft lather machine with synthetic knot. The high loft works unexpectedly well. Needs a different lathering technique compared to badgers.
Vie-Long horse hair brush with custom knot set to 50 mm loft. Amazingly soft, by far the softest horse hair brush I have tried. Nice backbone and totally scritchfree.
Mühle silvertip the little wonder. Every time this blast from the past comes up in my rotation I ask myself why I bother with my other brushes. The 21 mm knot is very efficient and doesnt waste any lather in the knot. Very sparse knot as they used to be back in the days
Mühle silvertip fibre the 23 mm version of the best fibres available in any synthetic knot. Lathers my travel stick ( LEA) anywhere in the world with any water at any time. The perfect travel brush that took the leap into my den, to my amazement!
Conclusion
There are a number of ways to get hold of nice shaving brushes. These are my different paths into comfortable and effortless shaves. I hope the reader of this post can somehow benefit of my trials.
The important thing to remember is to enjoy your shaves I do enjoy mine a lot!
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And for those who need a wake-up call in the morning you can always get something like this from one of the artisans. 
