- Thread starter
- #21
How to choose a nice brush
- Thread starter bosseb
- Start date
I tried this yesterday for my first lather with the Cade and it was a weird experience.
At first, I wasn't sure the brush was loading as there was very little proto-lather forming on the puck (I was using Tabac and I usually get pretty voluminous proto-lather even when loading with a pretty dry brush). When I picked up the brush it was definitely loaded though! It seemed like the lather consistency right off the bat with the Cade was about where it would normally be after a minute of face lathering with my WD silvertip. Very nice lather very quickly that was reasonably well-hydrated (despite a seemingly small amount of water used). A lot less volume on the first pass than I'm used to (eg. the physical depth of the lather was pretty thin), but the consistency was good and it shaved fine. The lather was even better on the second pass, suggesting that a slight increase in hydration would have improved the first pass (I do a cold water face splash between passes).
I must say, the face-feel of the brush was very very good. I was skeptical that it would actually be on par with a silvertip badger but it was definitely in that ballpark. Seemed to have a fair bit less splay, but that may have only been because I was using very little force.
- Thread starter
- #23
It is certainly nice but different to a badger and even more so to a top tier badger.
Also be aware that a synthetic brush doesn't handle warm lather.
If you like the Plisson I would recommend trying the Mühle STF. A nice brush with a similar feel is the all white horse from Vie-Long.
Very informative. Great write-up! This is why I read the forums!
- Thread starter
- #26
The new 24 mm Paladin Falstaff
This post was originally posted in the 'Paladin Shave Brushes thread on the 13th of March 2016. I will consolidate some of my brush reviews into this thread so that new members can find them more easily
Full disclosure
Both Falstafs are gifts from Ken (Chiefbroom) to me. The background is that about a year ago, after the delivery of the first batch of Paladin PK-47 Ken offered to gift me the 24 mm Ebonite handle with a Sabini knot. For various reasons the delivery was postponed until the Sabini knots were not available any more. Because of this delay Ken added the 28 mm Falstaff also as a gift for me as soon as the production knots from the new source were available. Needless to say I am deeply touched and very honored by this generosity from what I consider a friend brush geek. It is up to the reader to judge wether this background has affected my judgement about these brushes.
Limitations of brush reviews
As I see it there are two major drawbacks with brush reviews: is the brush you are reading about actually available and is it possible to draw conclusions from other people’s experiences with a brush?
The availability problem, especially with brushes made in small quantities, has to do with the badger hair itself. A manufacturer of brushes either buys the knot pre-built or builds it himself. If he builds it himself he has better control over the consistency of the quality of the knot. If he buys it from a manufacturer there is a lot of monitoring to be done to make certain that the quality remains the same in between batches. Even if he builds the knot himself he has to rely on the quality of the hair from his supplier. Examples of this problem is the Simpsons knot in best badger. It is notorious for its inconsistency over the years, especially compared to Shavemacs consistent knot quality. Both of these manufacturers make their own knots from badger hair that they buy from China. With this in mind it is almost impossible to determine if the brush bought today has the same quality as the one bought last year.
The problem with trying to extrapolate from others experiences regarding brushes lies in the fact that it doesn’t work. It does fuel some fierce debates on the forums but there is really no way that you can translate others experiences to your shaving. Your shaving is unique to you, because your technique is different. Furthermore brush reviews seldom contain any info at all about of the shave method used or how experienced the reviewer is. Even if learning from others experiences did work what would be the fun in not finding out for yourself? Would you really be happy with a brush because somebody recommended it?
Method and background
I have been DE shaving for 8+ years (and part time since 1980) and have evaluated quite a few brushes along the way, mostly ad hoc. I have finally arrived at this check list on brush properties. This is my strategy for brush comparisons and it is highly subjective. Your preferences and methods will vary.
My way of shaving consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (XTG + ATG), cold water rinse and an AS. I pick up the soap from a puck or a stick directly to my face. I apply extra moisturizer (my own mix of oils) once a week or daily during cold/dry season. I shave every day and all my shaves for the last five + years have been BBS in the strictest definition of the term. I also tend to use my blades to the fullest and my standard usage of my better blades is 100+ shaves per blade (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...ilkinson-blade ). I use a 15+ razor rotation consisting of vintage Gillettes (3 piece and TTOs) and a 20+ brush rotation consisting of mainly high end badger brushes.
For a brush to qualify into my den I have to consider it my desert island brush and furthermore it has to add something unique to the existing mix. I use my brush rotation because I feel that you should be forced to adapt your technique to different brushes frequently. By changing the brush and the razor once a week I believe I don't develop a dependency or laziness because of any particular piece of equipment and I keep my technique in good working order. I learned this lesson while hurting my technique by using only one razor for 18 months.
Paladin PK-47, Simpsons M6 Manchurian, Falstaff 24 mm and Shavemac 2 band silvertip in a Rudy Vey handle (currently available)
I have only used the smaller brush for face lathering from a stick of LEA soap with only one exception which was on a puck of Mystic Waters Windjammer. The LEA is my preferred stick for travel use and I know I can make perfect lather in a almost any conditions because I know this soap very well. I have used two razors: the NEW Deluxe head on a variety of handles and my soon-to-be-adopted-into-the-rotation Gillette G1000 TTO razor with a shortened handle. There is now 53 shaves on the red IP blade I use currently.
It is up to the reader to decide which features of a brush are the most important. Here are mine:
Shavemac 2 band D01 and Rudy Vey handle (available knot), da Vinci 293 (available), Falstaff 24 mm and the M&F Chief
of the brush on my face is the single most important property to me. I don’t want any scritch, prickliness or unpleasantness at all! The face feeling of the brush is a determined by its knot, loft (hi–low), profile (fan – bulb), bristles (synth/horse/boar/badger – 2/3 banding and the selected quality), backbone, glue bump and density. The density is the most elusive characteristic of the knot and commonly not specified in any consistent way from manufacturers and vendors.
The face feeling of the 24 mm Falstaff is surprisingly soft, even from the first shave. I have only once experienced such softness from a new 2 band knot and it was the Geoff Anderson custom brush which ended up becoming 3 band like soft after about a dozen or so shaves. The only comparable brush in the softness department is my all white Vie-Long horse hair brush (with the custom loft setting of 50 mm to avoid floppiness!). The second thing that strikes me with the 24 mm Falstaff is that the form of the knot is distinctly bulbish while I know Ken used to prefer a semi bulb earlier in the Sabini knots. The classic bulb shape is very well suited to this knot.
The combination of density, free loft (loft-glue bump), form and quality of bristles results in a degree of control over the usage of the knot that I have not experienced in a brush before. I am extremely impressed by this! The M&F Chief of 2013 had a much sparser Sabini knot (as per Kens plan) and although the Sabini knot of the Paladin PK-47 is denser it does not present this kind of control over the knot and the lather making. The Shavemac 2 band silvertip is not as dense and the fan shape of my specimen sacrifices the degree of control for the wider and softer presentation of the knot and it also lacks water retention capability. The M6 Manchurian Simpson is pricklier and not nearly as dense as the new Falstaff knot and doesn't hold water at all like the Falstaff does. In fact I had to resort to comparing the Falstaff knot to the 3 band one in my da Vinci 293 brush. The da Vinci has the same feeling as the Falstaff in spite of the different lofts, density and badger style (3 bander!).
All and all I can say that the new Paladin knot is unique in its feeling of control over the shaving process I use. In some sense the distinction between 2 and 3 banders seems to be uninteresting after trying this knot.
Somerset era (50's) Simpsons big Colonel with TGN finest knot , Falstaff 24 mm and the Vie-Long all white horse custom (available)
Lathering and release
For me the lather building and release are the second most important characteristics of a brush. The size, loft, material and density of the knot are important properties in this respect.
The lather building of this knot is marvelous if handled correctly. The process of making paste, proto lather , lather and the shiny goodness from a stick is second to none of my brushes. The handling of a stick on the face and the consistent building of the lather is very easy to control for me. The release of lather is very good as would be expected of a dense 2 bander but of course a sparser knot releases easier.
Backbone
is dependent on what material the knot is made of and how the loft is set, in height and density. The backbone of a brush is important in assisting to pick up the soap from the puck and spreading it on the face. A weak backbone will result in unintended splaying and potential harming of the brush while building lather.
The backbone of the Falstaff is noticeable and comes from both the material and the density in the knot. This combination is very hard to achieve in a knot and it's obvious that Kens experience and knowledge of what he wants plays a major part in achieving this result. Very impressive indeed. Compared to the backbone of the M6 Simpson or my butterscotch TGN finest Simpson the Falstaff is softer. The Shavemac D01 is still of course in a league of itself. The Falstaff is stronger in the backbone than the 2 band silvertip Shavemac, mainly because of the sparseness of the Shavemac knot but also because my Shavemac is a fan bulb.
Knot
is responsible for the bloom, and for the amount of water and soap a brush holds.
This was the property that changed most during the break in period of this brush. The water retention is also a sign of the quality of the material in the knot as I see it. Badger hair is a living material and will change during break in! The water retention capability of this brush is now absolutely on par with any of my 2 banders and close to some of the sparser 3 banders I use. This property is not as important for me in the stick usage scenario as when I build lather on a puck. It will indeed be very interesting to see how the big 28 mm Falstaff performs with my Mystic Water pucks.
Handle
aesthetics and comfort is a very personal choice. I use all my brushes for face lathering and this usage calls for a rather compact handle. The total height of the brush should not be too tall or it will be uncomfortable to hold to the face.
Regarding the handle I must confess to being partial. First of all this handle material (German Denim Ebonite) will not be available from Dark Holler or anybody else as it is not produced any more. Secondly I noticed when I handled the brush for the first time that this brush form is very close to the first brush I bought at the DR Harris Pharmacy just south of Piccadilly in London in 1980. The brush was a rebranded 24 mm Somerset era Simpsons Chubby1 and the flashback from this new Falstaff was instantaneous and strong. My intellect tells me that I still favor the octagonal Shavemac and the Paladin PK-47 handles but the stupid smile on my face tells another story...
Variation of the theme of Chubbies: chinese copy with STF2 synth bulb, Falstaff 28 mm and current model of Simpsons Chubby2
Conclusion
I do realize that the anticipation and long delivery time for this brush has driven up my expectations to unreasonable levels. With the brush in hand and after a dozen shaves these expectations however seem reasonable considering the fact that they have been fulfilled fully.
The greater question here is of course will these brushes be generally available? I think there is a good chance of this becoming a reality thru the coming Dark Holler website. I understand from Ken that the knots of the brushes I received are from the first batch of production knots from the new source and that Ken will be very closely monitoring the quality of the knots. If this all falls in place I do feel that the brush geeks are in for a treat.
I have tried to describe and compare the new Falstaff knot to some existing and some unobtainable brushes that I own and use, so that a wide audience has some relevant comparisons to relate to. I must however end this comparison with a statement of the obvious; the experience of using a brush is not readily exportable to somebody else's shaving. I have a long time ago (with a French redhaired girlfriend) learned that complex systems cannot really be understood by reasoning...
In the best of worlds Dark Holler will be producing brushes with the Sabini knots and the new knots at the same time. Even if Dark Holler only would produce brushes with knots of this kind it will be a very good thing for all brushlovers out there. This little brush has earned a place in my rotation on its own merits - I hope everyone reading this gets an opportunity to try a brush with this magnificent knot.
- Thread starter
- #27
This post was posted earlier in the Paladin thread. I will post more new reviews of brushes in this thread at a later stage
The new Paladin Falstaff 28 mm
Method and background
I have been DE shaving for 8+ years (and part time since 1980) and have evaluated quite a few brushes along the way, mostly ad hoc. I have finally arrived at this check list on brush properties. This is my strategy for brush comparisons and it is highly subjective. Your preferences and methods will vary.
My way of shaving consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (XTG/free style + ATG/freestyle), cold water rinse and an AS. I pick up the soap from a puck or a stick directly to my face. I apply extra moisturizer (my own mix of oils) once a week or daily during cold/dry season. I shave every day and all my shaves for the last five + years have been BBS in the strictest definition of the term. I also tend to use my blades to the fullest and my standard usage of my better blades is 100+ shaves per blade (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...ilkinson-blade ). I use a 15+ razor rotation consisting of vintage Gillettes (3 piece and TTOs) and a 20+ brush rotation consisting of mainly high end badger brushes.
For a brush to qualify into my den I have to consider it my desert island brush and furthermore it has to add something unique to the existing mix. I use my brush rotation because I feel that you should be forced to adapt your technique to different brushes frequently. By changing the brush and the razor once a week I believe I don't develop a dependency or laziness because of any particular piece of equipment and I keep my technique in good working order. I learned this lesson while hurting my technique by using only one razor for 18 months.
I have somewhat modified my usual procedure of comparing brushes for this 28 mm Falstaff. The brush exhibits properties and a self confidence that demand a comparison to my most luxurious and comfortable brushes, regardless of what kind of material the knot consists of. Besides that it is a fact that I do not own any 2 bander of this size. It also makes one contemplate what in a brush makes up the properties you want to experience while using a high end brush. Make no mistake; this is a high end brush independent of how you define the term. The smaller 24 mm Falstaff I reviewed earlier is of the same kind but the smaller size and my modest way of only using a stick with it made me miss this obvious point.
This is also a very big brush. The loft is almost 54 mm high and with a glue bump of about 10 mm the effective loft is near 44 mm. The quality of the knot is obvious and immediately noticeable in the combination of the badger selection affecting the performance and the face feeling of this brush. The knot exhibits the same degree of control over the lather making as the smaller brother has. The feeling of soft luxury is however very much more obvious as the brush is so much larger than the 24 mm is. This has forced me to really think about what I like so much in these soft big brushes. I have come to the conclusion that the main point for me is the overwhelming feeling of softness and ease of use and control over the lather making.
Simpsons Chubby 2, Falstaff 28mm, Frank shaving 30 mm prototype (not available) and Thäter 28 mm
I have now done 13 shaves (and 9 palm latherings) with the bigger Falstaff and I think the knot is about as opened up as it will be. I have only used this bigger brush for face lathering from a puck of Mystic Waters Windjammer. I have used two razors: the British Rocket HD and the Goodwill. There is now 65 shaves on the red IP blade I use currently.
It is up to the reader to decide which features of a brush are the most important. Here are mine:
Shavemac 3 band D01, Falstaff 28mm, Kent BK8 and the M&F Chief (not available)
Face feeling
The face feeling of the 28 mm Falstaff is delicately soft from the first shave. The feeling is not immediately easy to associate with a more rigid version of a 2 band knot with stiffer material in the knot.
The feeling is very different from the Chubby 2 because of the knot quality. My Chubby2 is in best but very soft and scritch free. The Chubby is not at all well stuffed in comparison and the scrub is very much more present in the Chubby. The backbone is very much more pronounced in the Falstaff.
In comparison with the (unavailable) Frank Shaving synthetic (STF2) 30 mm the Falstaff is scrubbier, as most brushes are. The backbone in the synth is also weaker and more undefined. The lather making capacity of the synth is however unparallelled in any brush I know of but so is also the lack of control over the process.
The 28 mm Thäter 4125/3 is somewhat softer and also distinctly bulbier and has a higher loft. Being a 3 bander it is different but very comparable in the softness - the knot is however sparser and the loft higher on the very high bulb.
My fan shaped Shavemac D01 is softer than the Falstaff, has a denser knot and a weaker backbone (in line of being a 3 bander of course!). This fan also has the face feeling of being my largest brush because of the way the fan type knot holds together and makes an impression of being endless. The face feeling of the large Falstaff is more concentrated as it's a bulb and the lather making capacity is higher and easier to control.
The big Kent is a legend in softness without being floppy and uncontrollable. I have no problem face lathering with this brush but the concentration and focus of the knot is simply not there compared to the Falstaff.
Of course I have to compare the Falstaff to the Sabini knots that I own. The M&F Chief is a semi bulb that is distinctly sparser and scrubbier than the Falstaff. The knot of the 25 mm Chief feels bigger than the knot of the 26 mm PK-47 but the PK-47 is more focused, due to the denser knot, quality of badger and setting in the handle. The "Super Badger" knot of the Truefitt & Hill in porcelain is supposed to originate from Lee, but I cannot confirm this. The knot is a sparse fan shaped high lofted 3 bander with a lot of scrub. The face feeling is vague as the density and character of the knot doesn't hold it together. The high loft also weakens the backbone.
At this point I have to totally break my usual pattern of comparing brushes of the same type; I have to compare the Falstaff to the most comfortable brushes I own.
But first: what makes a brush comfortable? For me comfortable is a soft face feeling combined with an excellent lather making capability in my preferred usage (face lathering from puck or stick). I accidentally stumbled on this kind of brush many years ago when I bought my 21 mm Mühle silvertip. To achieve the optimal brushes for this purpose I have since then ordered several brushes from the Shavemac custom line. After five tries I have landed in the present two in my den; a silvertip and a finest. The measurements for these are about 25 mm knot at top of the handle and 52 mm loft for the silvertip and 54 mm for the finest. Bernd of Shavemac specifies the knot as 23 mm at the bottom of the glue bump (which is where Bernd measures his brushes). These two brushes are by far the most comfortable brushes I own which is hardly surprising given the total customization to my exactly formulated specifications. I use these brushes for both pucks and sticks. The small sparser Mühle I only use for sticks. The Falstaff is very different from these brushes yet it delivers nearly the same sensation of comfort and effortlessness in my usage. I somehow managed to not see this property in the 24 mm Falstaff earlier but it is present also in that one! This only goes to show that some things in life are not easy to rationalize about...
Same brushes from above
Lathering and release
The lather building of this knot is marvelous if handled correctly, just like in its smaller brother I reviewed earlier. The process of making lather is effortless and very easy to control. The knot somehow resembles a 3 bander in this respect. The dense bulby knot handles the lather making very elegantly and the release is what is to be expected from a brush of this size. It doesn't hog but the release is nowhere near what a traditional sparser and slimmer 2 band knot delivers.
Backbone
The backbone of the Falstaff is noticeable and comes from both the material and the density in the knot. This combination is very hard to achieve in a knot and it's obvious that Kens experience and knowledge of what he wants plays a major part in achieving this result. The combination of knot setting, free loft and quality of material is second to none of the brushes in my den. The backbone makes picking up soap from the puck easy to control.
Knot
This was the property that changed most during the break in period of this brush, to an even higher degree than in the smaller Falstaff. The water retention is also a sign of the quality of the material in the knot as I see it. The water retention capability of this brush is now absolutely on par with any of my 2 banders and close to some of the sparser 3 banders I use. This property is very important for me when I build lather on a puck. This big Falstaff now handles my Mystic Water puck with ease and comfort. I have no problem at all to make the perfect lather every time.
Handle
aesthetics and comfort is a very personal choice. I use all my brushes for face lathering and this usage calls for a rather compact handle. The total height of the brush should not be too tall or it will be uncomfortable to hold to the face.
The handle form of the Somerset era Chubby is very pleasant to use and look at, much more so than the present Simpsons design. I have another brush with roughly the same form: the Frank Shaving 30 mm STF2 synthetic prototype (no longer available). The quality of the handle from Dark Holler is second to none I have experienced. I am very impressed by the attention Ken & co pays to these handles and the development of the lines of brushes produced.
Paladin PK-47 with Sabini knot (not available), T & F with supposed Sabini knot (not available), Falstaff 28 mm, Shavemac silvertip and Shavemac finest
Conclusion
I have been very lucky to be able to add these two new brushes from Dark Holler to my den. As the Paladin site now is online this is possible for the brush geeks in general. The Paladin line of brushes will be with us for the long run. This is good news indeed.
I have tried to compare the new Paladins to some of my known and generally available brushes to help the community to form an opinion of these brushes. Of course my opinion is "only one man's opinion of the moonshine" as Shakespeare would have put it. I do not for a moment think that rationalizing from other peoples impressions of brushes is a very reliable way to go on in this hobby. This is why I have tried to compare only the properties of the brushes and not my conclusions and preferences of these properties. There is really only one way to find out about these new Paladins...
I have on purpose not made much of a point to compare these new knots to the Sabini knots of the history of the Paladin brushes. Suffice to say that these new knots stand on their own regardless of the history in my humble opinion. Of course I would like to see the Sabini knots back in the Paladin line but it is my firm belief that the Paladin line stands very strong as they are now. Regarding the future nobody knows but rest assured that The Dark Holler team will keep up the quality of the brushes even if it means longer periods between the batches that are brought to market.
Thanks for the brushes Ken, my friend. May the Paladin line bring joy to the brush geeks for many years.
Method and background
I have been DE shaving for 8+ years (and part time since 1980) and have evaluated quite a few brushes along the way, mostly ad hoc. I have finally arrived at this check list on brush properties. This is my strategy for brush comparisons and it is highly subjective. Your preferences and methods will vary.
My way of shaving consists of a shower, face wash to exfoliate, brush soaking in cold water during shower, cold water shaving with 2 passes (XTG/free style + ATG/freestyle), cold water rinse and an AS. I pick up the soap from a puck or a stick directly to my face. I apply extra moisturizer (my own mix of oils) once a week or daily during cold/dry season. I shave every day and all my shaves for the last five + years have been BBS in the strictest definition of the term. I also tend to use my blades to the fullest and my standard usage of my better blades is 100+ shaves per blade (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthr...ilkinson-blade ). I use a 15+ razor rotation consisting of vintage Gillettes (3 piece and TTOs) and a 20+ brush rotation consisting of mainly high end badger brushes.
For a brush to qualify into my den I have to consider it my desert island brush and furthermore it has to add something unique to the existing mix. I use my brush rotation because I feel that you should be forced to adapt your technique to different brushes frequently. By changing the brush and the razor once a week I believe I don't develop a dependency or laziness because of any particular piece of equipment and I keep my technique in good working order. I learned this lesson while hurting my technique by using only one razor for 18 months.
I have somewhat modified my usual procedure of comparing brushes for this 28 mm Falstaff. The brush exhibits properties and a self confidence that demand a comparison to my most luxurious and comfortable brushes, regardless of what kind of material the knot consists of. Besides that it is a fact that I do not own any 2 bander of this size. It also makes one contemplate what in a brush makes up the properties you want to experience while using a high end brush. Make no mistake; this is a high end brush independent of how you define the term. The smaller 24 mm Falstaff I reviewed earlier is of the same kind but the smaller size and my modest way of only using a stick with it made me miss this obvious point.
This is also a very big brush. The loft is almost 54 mm high and with a glue bump of about 10 mm the effective loft is near 44 mm. The quality of the knot is obvious and immediately noticeable in the combination of the badger selection affecting the performance and the face feeling of this brush. The knot exhibits the same degree of control over the lather making as the smaller brother has. The feeling of soft luxury is however very much more obvious as the brush is so much larger than the 24 mm is. This has forced me to really think about what I like so much in these soft big brushes. I have come to the conclusion that the main point for me is the overwhelming feeling of softness and ease of use and control over the lather making.
Simpsons Chubby 2, Falstaff 28mm, Frank shaving 30 mm prototype (not available) and Thäter 28 mm
I have now done 13 shaves (and 9 palm latherings) with the bigger Falstaff and I think the knot is about as opened up as it will be. I have only used this bigger brush for face lathering from a puck of Mystic Waters Windjammer. I have used two razors: the British Rocket HD and the Goodwill. There is now 65 shaves on the red IP blade I use currently.
It is up to the reader to decide which features of a brush are the most important. Here are mine:
Shavemac 3 band D01, Falstaff 28mm, Kent BK8 and the M&F Chief (not available)
Face feeling
The face feeling of the 28 mm Falstaff is delicately soft from the first shave. The feeling is not immediately easy to associate with a more rigid version of a 2 band knot with stiffer material in the knot.
The feeling is very different from the Chubby 2 because of the knot quality. My Chubby2 is in best but very soft and scritch free. The Chubby is not at all well stuffed in comparison and the scrub is very much more present in the Chubby. The backbone is very much more pronounced in the Falstaff.
In comparison with the (unavailable) Frank Shaving synthetic (STF2) 30 mm the Falstaff is scrubbier, as most brushes are. The backbone in the synth is also weaker and more undefined. The lather making capacity of the synth is however unparallelled in any brush I know of but so is also the lack of control over the process.
The 28 mm Thäter 4125/3 is somewhat softer and also distinctly bulbier and has a higher loft. Being a 3 bander it is different but very comparable in the softness - the knot is however sparser and the loft higher on the very high bulb.
My fan shaped Shavemac D01 is softer than the Falstaff, has a denser knot and a weaker backbone (in line of being a 3 bander of course!). This fan also has the face feeling of being my largest brush because of the way the fan type knot holds together and makes an impression of being endless. The face feeling of the large Falstaff is more concentrated as it's a bulb and the lather making capacity is higher and easier to control.
The big Kent is a legend in softness without being floppy and uncontrollable. I have no problem face lathering with this brush but the concentration and focus of the knot is simply not there compared to the Falstaff.
Of course I have to compare the Falstaff to the Sabini knots that I own. The M&F Chief is a semi bulb that is distinctly sparser and scrubbier than the Falstaff. The knot of the 25 mm Chief feels bigger than the knot of the 26 mm PK-47 but the PK-47 is more focused, due to the denser knot, quality of badger and setting in the handle. The "Super Badger" knot of the Truefitt & Hill in porcelain is supposed to originate from Lee, but I cannot confirm this. The knot is a sparse fan shaped high lofted 3 bander with a lot of scrub. The face feeling is vague as the density and character of the knot doesn't hold it together. The high loft also weakens the backbone.
At this point I have to totally break my usual pattern of comparing brushes of the same type; I have to compare the Falstaff to the most comfortable brushes I own.
But first: what makes a brush comfortable? For me comfortable is a soft face feeling combined with an excellent lather making capability in my preferred usage (face lathering from puck or stick). I accidentally stumbled on this kind of brush many years ago when I bought my 21 mm Mühle silvertip. To achieve the optimal brushes for this purpose I have since then ordered several brushes from the Shavemac custom line. After five tries I have landed in the present two in my den; a silvertip and a finest. The measurements for these are about 25 mm knot at top of the handle and 52 mm loft for the silvertip and 54 mm for the finest. Bernd of Shavemac specifies the knot as 23 mm at the bottom of the glue bump (which is where Bernd measures his brushes). These two brushes are by far the most comfortable brushes I own which is hardly surprising given the total customization to my exactly formulated specifications. I use these brushes for both pucks and sticks. The small sparser Mühle I only use for sticks. The Falstaff is very different from these brushes yet it delivers nearly the same sensation of comfort and effortlessness in my usage. I somehow managed to not see this property in the 24 mm Falstaff earlier but it is present also in that one! This only goes to show that some things in life are not easy to rationalize about...
Same brushes from above
Lathering and release
The lather building of this knot is marvelous if handled correctly, just like in its smaller brother I reviewed earlier. The process of making lather is effortless and very easy to control. The knot somehow resembles a 3 bander in this respect. The dense bulby knot handles the lather making very elegantly and the release is what is to be expected from a brush of this size. It doesn't hog but the release is nowhere near what a traditional sparser and slimmer 2 band knot delivers.
Backbone
The backbone of the Falstaff is noticeable and comes from both the material and the density in the knot. This combination is very hard to achieve in a knot and it's obvious that Kens experience and knowledge of what he wants plays a major part in achieving this result. The combination of knot setting, free loft and quality of material is second to none of the brushes in my den. The backbone makes picking up soap from the puck easy to control.
Knot
This was the property that changed most during the break in period of this brush, to an even higher degree than in the smaller Falstaff. The water retention is also a sign of the quality of the material in the knot as I see it. The water retention capability of this brush is now absolutely on par with any of my 2 banders and close to some of the sparser 3 banders I use. This property is very important for me when I build lather on a puck. This big Falstaff now handles my Mystic Water puck with ease and comfort. I have no problem at all to make the perfect lather every time.
Handle
aesthetics and comfort is a very personal choice. I use all my brushes for face lathering and this usage calls for a rather compact handle. The total height of the brush should not be too tall or it will be uncomfortable to hold to the face.
The handle form of the Somerset era Chubby is very pleasant to use and look at, much more so than the present Simpsons design. I have another brush with roughly the same form: the Frank Shaving 30 mm STF2 synthetic prototype (no longer available). The quality of the handle from Dark Holler is second to none I have experienced. I am very impressed by the attention Ken & co pays to these handles and the development of the lines of brushes produced.
Paladin PK-47 with Sabini knot (not available), T & F with supposed Sabini knot (not available), Falstaff 28 mm, Shavemac silvertip and Shavemac finest
Conclusion
I have been very lucky to be able to add these two new brushes from Dark Holler to my den. As the Paladin site now is online this is possible for the brush geeks in general. The Paladin line of brushes will be with us for the long run. This is good news indeed.
I have tried to compare the new Paladins to some of my known and generally available brushes to help the community to form an opinion of these brushes. Of course my opinion is "only one man's opinion of the moonshine" as Shakespeare would have put it. I do not for a moment think that rationalizing from other peoples impressions of brushes is a very reliable way to go on in this hobby. This is why I have tried to compare only the properties of the brushes and not my conclusions and preferences of these properties. There is really only one way to find out about these new Paladins...
I have on purpose not made much of a point to compare these new knots to the Sabini knots of the history of the Paladin brushes. Suffice to say that these new knots stand on their own regardless of the history in my humble opinion. Of course I would like to see the Sabini knots back in the Paladin line but it is my firm belief that the Paladin line stands very strong as they are now. Regarding the future nobody knows but rest assured that The Dark Holler team will keep up the quality of the brushes even if it means longer periods between the batches that are brought to market.
Thanks for the brushes Ken, my friend. May the Paladin line bring joy to the brush geeks for many years.
- Thread starter
- #28
This is partly a comparison of two versions of the "Manchurian" style of badger knots; the Shavenook M6 2014 LE made by Simpsons and the Shavemac 2 band D01 knot in a Rudy Vey Golden Teak Burl handle in the M7 style. The latter brush is new to me, at the time of this writing I have completed 12 shaves with it. The 2 band D01 knots by Shavemac are not labeled anything else than D01 2 band, however the feeling of the knots is similar to Simpsons Manchurian knots, at least in the five cases I have handled myself. Both manufacturers import the raw material and make the knots themselves. The M6 knot was also limited to the 200 brushes made in 2014 from that special batch of badger. The Shavemac knot is readily available in all three loft styles and all sizes.
At the same time I will try to compare different loft shapes in roughly the same type of knot. The Simpsons has a fan shape and the wooden Shavemac has a flat top, my first and only one. To broaden the horizon I will also compare both brushes to the B&B 2014 LE brush by Rudy Vey with the same 2 band D01 knot from Shavemac. It has a distinct bulb shaped loft. In fact it has the pointiest bulb shape I own. So how much does the loft form contribute to the overall feeling of the knot?
First of all I need to point out that these brushes are very special indeed; they are an acquired taste at its most extreme. The difference to a soft silvertip can be overwhelming to the unprepared. I use these brushes strictly for face lathering, both from sticks and pucks. All three brushes will eat soft croaps and even triple milled soaps like monsters! The Manchurian knot can in a sense be compared to a glass of Lagavulin Single Malt; it is best enjoyed all by itself.
Face feeling
of the brush on my face is the most important property to me. I do not tolerate any scritch at all!
The M6 (by Simpsons) makes a very distinct impression on the face. It holds its form very well (and features the biggest glue bump I have in any brush!) even though it is a fan. The badger hair is very stiff and the tips are quite soft. The tips are much softer on a wet brush than on a dry one and it took quite a number of shaves to loosen up and get comfortable. It is very well suited to using sticks because of the control of the knot during lather making.
The M7 (Shavemac flat top) is surprisingly distinct for a flat top. The risk with flat tops is that you lose control over the lather making because of too much splaying of the knot. There is an amount of splaying but nothing that would jeopardize control over the knot. The tips are distinctly soft and a bit whiter than in the M6. This knot did not need a lot of shaves to open up and offer the correct amount of water retention and release of lather. I have only done three shaves from sticks but I don't expect any problems in handling the smaller amount of soap than this knots tears of my Martin de Candre Fougere puck!
The Bamboo handled B&B LE with the distinct bulb in a well filled bigger knot has of course no problems in keeping its form during usage. The picture above is of a dry brush, the bloomed knot is not quite that pointy! The tips are gloriously soft and the distinct backbone from the well filled knot is truly remarkable. The badger hair in this old brush is exactly the same as in the flat top above, given the fact that badger hair has some variance. The feeling of the knot is remarkably close to the flat top - even though they are two years apart. The consistency of the Shavemac knots is truly one of the wonders of the brush lines present today!
All three brushes are very easily controlled and comfortable to use on the face, even though one has to respect the fact that they will not be to everybody's liking because of the marked backbone, which some shavers find uncomfortable. The big bulb is certainly the one that should initially be avoided by unexperienced shavers.
Lathering
For me the lather building and release are the second most important characteristics of a brush. The size, loft, material and density of the knot are important properties in this respect.
This is where the biggest difference between these two knots lie. Even though it does not seem obvious the M6 is more hesitant in the lather making. I cannot understand why, but it might be that the free loft (loft height minus the glue bump) is a bit lower than that in the M7. I cannot feel any glue bump at all in the M7 and with a loft of 44 mm and more volume in the knot because of the flat top it simply seems to have an advantage in the lather making. My guess is however that this has to do with the quality of the badger hair itself.
Of course the bigger bulb knot in the Bamboo brush has a much easier task in making lather - and a harder task in releasing it.
The M6 excels in the release of the lather, not that the M7 is far behind. The bigger Bamboo knot has some small tendencies to hog lather, obviously because of the bigger knot. Of course the slight hogging is nowhere near a well packed silvertip, mind you...
All three brushes are well suited to face lathering and the M6 and the M7 are ideal for stick usage because of the very good release of the lather.
Backbone
is dependent on what material the knot is made of and how the loft is set, in height and density. Backbone is useful for picking up soap from a puck and exfoliating the stubble while making lather on the face.
Let me be very clear here: These brushes will eat any soap, including triple milled ones, quite forcefully. I tried to use the M7 with Marcos wet method on a Martin de Candre puck with a 20 second loading time. The result was enough lather to shave a moose with! So the backbone is really what sets these brushes apart from other 2 banders. Our own moderator Ouch once remarked that the backbone of the Shavemac D01 2 bander could be used to jack a car. I do have to agree on this! A large part of acquiring a taste for these brushes lies in getting along with this aspect of these knots.
The backbone of these knots are about equal, given the difference in size of the Shavemacs.
Knot
is responsible for the bloom, and for the amount of water and soap a brush holds.
The M6 has a knot of 22/50 mm, but because of the very big glue bump the free loft is reduced to about 39 mm. The knot looks to be a bit denser than the M7 but it is hardly noticeable. The knot holds and releases lather very well, for being a relatively small knot. The fan form of the knot is spot on for this usage - as you would expect from one of the big players in brushes. The knot feels rougher in the tips than the Shavemac, but this is barely noticeable in ordinary usage.
The M7 (22/44 mm) holds more water and soap than the M6, partly because of the larger volume and partly because of the badger quality. No noticeable tendencies to lather hogging however. This is my first flat top knot and I must confess that I am somewhat surprised the the knot does not splay more than it does. The backbone and springiness of each hair really comes int play here and I am sure that a flat top with the Simpsons knot would have splayed more thus giving less control over the lather making process. The tips are gloriously soft, maybe even to a greater degree than in the bigger knot of the Bamboo handle.
The Bamboo handled Shavemac knot (26/52 mm) of course holds far more water and soap than the smaller knots. The pointy bulb concentrates the loft very markedly making the lather making process very easily controllable. The mere size however makes the usage of sticks somewhat problematic, since there is a certain amount of lather hogging present. Some sticks (Arko!!) produce more soap to the face than others, so experimentation with sticks is advised.
Handle
aesthetics and comfort is a very personal choice.
I have not customized the handles in any way, they were ordered as is from Rudy Vey and Simpsons. The classic shape of the M6/M7 are very comfortable to hold, as one would expect from a proven design. Remarkably the comfort is the same in spite of the pronounced difference in size.
The Bamboo handle has a very odd form - I have never seen anything like it before. It is however surprisingly comfortable in my hand. It also has this semi translucent property that makes a lovely effect when backlit...
One thing that stands out in these three brushes is the wooden handle of the M7. Rudy Vey had come by a very nice piece of Golden Teak Burl which he stabilized with resin. I have not owned a wooden handled brush since I bought two from the legendary CoonCatBob, with the exception of my Plisson synth. The natural material of the handle is just magic for me, even though it needs a bit of maintenance like all natural materials, including horn. There is something intriguing and exciting about natural materials that I really like.
Conclusion
These knots are special indeed, even though 2 banders are fashionable in the shaving community since some years. The difference between one of these knots and an ordinary 2 band finest is very big. This difference in face feeling is something to get used to, these knots are definitely "an aquired taste" as Rudy Vey points out. Some shavers will never get to like them. For me these brushes are a very nice compliment to the very soft and cuddly brushes I generally favor, both in 2 and 3 band.
One remark about the price of these; yes - they are obscenely expensive and of course the cost cannot be justified. I am in the enviable position of owning them and being able to in front of my wife point at my neighbors collection of convertible German sports cars (in Sweden with 6 months of winter!!) and the other neighbors very young girlfriends designer clothes ...
Of course this comparison suffers from the traditional problem of comparing apples to oranges. The M6 from Simpsons is not available, but I do believe that the quality of the badger is very representative for the Simpsons Manchurian badger knots offered in their Limited Edition brushes. The Shavemac knots are readily available both from Shavemac and Rudy Vey.
One last thing:
I am trying to sneak in a message here, without attracting too much attention. This just might be the last brush I buy... There, I said it !
At the same time I will try to compare different loft shapes in roughly the same type of knot. The Simpsons has a fan shape and the wooden Shavemac has a flat top, my first and only one. To broaden the horizon I will also compare both brushes to the B&B 2014 LE brush by Rudy Vey with the same 2 band D01 knot from Shavemac. It has a distinct bulb shaped loft. In fact it has the pointiest bulb shape I own. So how much does the loft form contribute to the overall feeling of the knot?
First of all I need to point out that these brushes are very special indeed; they are an acquired taste at its most extreme. The difference to a soft silvertip can be overwhelming to the unprepared. I use these brushes strictly for face lathering, both from sticks and pucks. All three brushes will eat soft croaps and even triple milled soaps like monsters! The Manchurian knot can in a sense be compared to a glass of Lagavulin Single Malt; it is best enjoyed all by itself.
Face feeling
of the brush on my face is the most important property to me. I do not tolerate any scritch at all!
The M6 (by Simpsons) makes a very distinct impression on the face. It holds its form very well (and features the biggest glue bump I have in any brush!) even though it is a fan. The badger hair is very stiff and the tips are quite soft. The tips are much softer on a wet brush than on a dry one and it took quite a number of shaves to loosen up and get comfortable. It is very well suited to using sticks because of the control of the knot during lather making.
The M7 (Shavemac flat top) is surprisingly distinct for a flat top. The risk with flat tops is that you lose control over the lather making because of too much splaying of the knot. There is an amount of splaying but nothing that would jeopardize control over the knot. The tips are distinctly soft and a bit whiter than in the M6. This knot did not need a lot of shaves to open up and offer the correct amount of water retention and release of lather. I have only done three shaves from sticks but I don't expect any problems in handling the smaller amount of soap than this knots tears of my Martin de Candre Fougere puck!
The Bamboo handled B&B LE with the distinct bulb in a well filled bigger knot has of course no problems in keeping its form during usage. The picture above is of a dry brush, the bloomed knot is not quite that pointy! The tips are gloriously soft and the distinct backbone from the well filled knot is truly remarkable. The badger hair in this old brush is exactly the same as in the flat top above, given the fact that badger hair has some variance. The feeling of the knot is remarkably close to the flat top - even though they are two years apart. The consistency of the Shavemac knots is truly one of the wonders of the brush lines present today!
All three brushes are very easily controlled and comfortable to use on the face, even though one has to respect the fact that they will not be to everybody's liking because of the marked backbone, which some shavers find uncomfortable. The big bulb is certainly the one that should initially be avoided by unexperienced shavers.
Lathering
For me the lather building and release are the second most important characteristics of a brush. The size, loft, material and density of the knot are important properties in this respect.
This is where the biggest difference between these two knots lie. Even though it does not seem obvious the M6 is more hesitant in the lather making. I cannot understand why, but it might be that the free loft (loft height minus the glue bump) is a bit lower than that in the M7. I cannot feel any glue bump at all in the M7 and with a loft of 44 mm and more volume in the knot because of the flat top it simply seems to have an advantage in the lather making. My guess is however that this has to do with the quality of the badger hair itself.
Of course the bigger bulb knot in the Bamboo brush has a much easier task in making lather - and a harder task in releasing it.
The M6 excels in the release of the lather, not that the M7 is far behind. The bigger Bamboo knot has some small tendencies to hog lather, obviously because of the bigger knot. Of course the slight hogging is nowhere near a well packed silvertip, mind you...
All three brushes are well suited to face lathering and the M6 and the M7 are ideal for stick usage because of the very good release of the lather.
Backbone
is dependent on what material the knot is made of and how the loft is set, in height and density. Backbone is useful for picking up soap from a puck and exfoliating the stubble while making lather on the face.
Let me be very clear here: These brushes will eat any soap, including triple milled ones, quite forcefully. I tried to use the M7 with Marcos wet method on a Martin de Candre puck with a 20 second loading time. The result was enough lather to shave a moose with! So the backbone is really what sets these brushes apart from other 2 banders. Our own moderator Ouch once remarked that the backbone of the Shavemac D01 2 bander could be used to jack a car. I do have to agree on this! A large part of acquiring a taste for these brushes lies in getting along with this aspect of these knots.
The backbone of these knots are about equal, given the difference in size of the Shavemacs.
Knot
is responsible for the bloom, and for the amount of water and soap a brush holds.
The M6 has a knot of 22/50 mm, but because of the very big glue bump the free loft is reduced to about 39 mm. The knot looks to be a bit denser than the M7 but it is hardly noticeable. The knot holds and releases lather very well, for being a relatively small knot. The fan form of the knot is spot on for this usage - as you would expect from one of the big players in brushes. The knot feels rougher in the tips than the Shavemac, but this is barely noticeable in ordinary usage.
The M7 (22/44 mm) holds more water and soap than the M6, partly because of the larger volume and partly because of the badger quality. No noticeable tendencies to lather hogging however. This is my first flat top knot and I must confess that I am somewhat surprised the the knot does not splay more than it does. The backbone and springiness of each hair really comes int play here and I am sure that a flat top with the Simpsons knot would have splayed more thus giving less control over the lather making process. The tips are gloriously soft, maybe even to a greater degree than in the bigger knot of the Bamboo handle.
The Bamboo handled Shavemac knot (26/52 mm) of course holds far more water and soap than the smaller knots. The pointy bulb concentrates the loft very markedly making the lather making process very easily controllable. The mere size however makes the usage of sticks somewhat problematic, since there is a certain amount of lather hogging present. Some sticks (Arko!!) produce more soap to the face than others, so experimentation with sticks is advised.
Handle
aesthetics and comfort is a very personal choice.
I have not customized the handles in any way, they were ordered as is from Rudy Vey and Simpsons. The classic shape of the M6/M7 are very comfortable to hold, as one would expect from a proven design. Remarkably the comfort is the same in spite of the pronounced difference in size.
The Bamboo handle has a very odd form - I have never seen anything like it before. It is however surprisingly comfortable in my hand. It also has this semi translucent property that makes a lovely effect when backlit...
One thing that stands out in these three brushes is the wooden handle of the M7. Rudy Vey had come by a very nice piece of Golden Teak Burl which he stabilized with resin. I have not owned a wooden handled brush since I bought two from the legendary CoonCatBob, with the exception of my Plisson synth. The natural material of the handle is just magic for me, even though it needs a bit of maintenance like all natural materials, including horn. There is something intriguing and exciting about natural materials that I really like.
Conclusion
These knots are special indeed, even though 2 banders are fashionable in the shaving community since some years. The difference between one of these knots and an ordinary 2 band finest is very big. This difference in face feeling is something to get used to, these knots are definitely "an aquired taste" as Rudy Vey points out. Some shavers will never get to like them. For me these brushes are a very nice compliment to the very soft and cuddly brushes I generally favor, both in 2 and 3 band.
One remark about the price of these; yes - they are obscenely expensive and of course the cost cannot be justified. I am in the enviable position of owning them and being able to in front of my wife point at my neighbors collection of convertible German sports cars (in Sweden with 6 months of winter!!) and the other neighbors very young girlfriends designer clothes ...
Of course this comparison suffers from the traditional problem of comparing apples to oranges. The M6 from Simpsons is not available, but I do believe that the quality of the badger is very representative for the Simpsons Manchurian badger knots offered in their Limited Edition brushes. The Shavemac knots are readily available both from Shavemac and Rudy Vey.
One last thing:
I am trying to sneak in a message here, without attracting too much attention. This just might be the last brush I buy... There, I said it !
Great write up as usual Bosse!
I doubt that this was your last brush
I doubt that this was your last brush
- Thread starter
- #31
Wow. What an amazing post! Thanks for taking the time to write all of that up. Great perspective and fun to read. Nice photos of fun looking toys.
Im about 6 weeks into DE shaving and bowl lathering. Started with a Simpson Colonel badger, which has been a super brush for a starter. Also got a synthetic brush for quick drying when traveling, an Omega Hi Brush. It provides a different feel, so I have even tried it at home. Next up I am going to get a boar brush to try something very scrubby and stiff, to really work the lather into the whiskers. Likely a Semogue 1438 as the current contender. Maybe someday Ill go farther afield like you have done. You have given me some ideas for the future. Very nice to see. Thanks.
Im about 6 weeks into DE shaving and bowl lathering. Started with a Simpson Colonel badger, which has been a super brush for a starter. Also got a synthetic brush for quick drying when traveling, an Omega Hi Brush. It provides a different feel, so I have even tried it at home. Next up I am going to get a boar brush to try something very scrubby and stiff, to really work the lather into the whiskers. Likely a Semogue 1438 as the current contender. Maybe someday Ill go farther afield like you have done. You have given me some ideas for the future. Very nice to see. Thanks.
I just bought some nice looking knots from China off ebay and fired the lathe up. I'll post some pics when I get a chance, probably this weekend. 24 mm boar dyed knots, 22, 24.5, and 20 mm Silvertip and Best Badger knots. The small one is for the replacement knot in the Van der Hagen boar that fell apart in a couple weeks.
If you have the tools, you can make whatever you want!
Peter
If you have the tools, you can make whatever you want!
Peter
- Thread starter
- #34
Wish I'd have seen this before I mass ordered a bunch of brushes. Anyways, I'll have 9 soon and will write a review on them.
This is a great thread! Nice bump!
Lovely collection! Thanks for the comparisons!
- Thread starter
- #39
Thanks,but I prefer to think of it as a rotation since I actively rotate all the brushes on a weekly basis. At 20+ brushes my only complaint is that the years seem to be very short...
I also now see that my Thäters have not been introduced properly here, need to make a write up shortly!
4125 2 and 3 bander
Great bump. This is Wiki material.
