I'm thinking about giving striaghts a try. I've read through the Interactive Straight Sticky. Looks like there's not only a lot of skills to master, but each skill has a steep learning curve. Not knowing if I'll even like a straight (but willing to give it a go), my question is, if I get a shave ready straight, how long should I expect it to last until it needs to be re-honed? I see most straight shavers recommend focusing on the shave first and honing only after you decide to stay straight. With that in mind, how easy is it to get a razor honed? I see lots of honemeister resources. I guess a better question is, how long does it take from the time you send it in to the time you get it back? Is it feasable to shave straight for a long period of time before learning how to hone (i.e. always having a honemeister do your honing)?
How long between hones?
- Thread starter mbrossar
- Start date
Yes, not the easiest thing to master, but once you do, nothing will be the same. Period.
As a beginner, it will last you about a month to three AT BEST. Why? Because you are bad at stropping.
Once you master stropping and get yourself the better strop (after destroying your practice strop) the razor *can* last up to 6-12 months between honings. You have to be good at stropping and follow the recommended # of laps. Which is a lot.
Honing is simple, but ridiculously hard to master. Plus the stones are not exactly inexpensive.
I take about a day to three to hone a razor and get it out in the mail. I hear others are backlogged. Cannot speak for their turn around time. But I'm not a business, honing is something I do more for fun and to help out the community. And if I get to check out some really cool razors too...
The longest time is actually time in transit. Stupid post office hasn't discovered "beam me up Scotty" technology yet.
when youve got a shave ready straight that just become a little dull from regular use, you can maintain it yourself using a barbers hone/high grit hone.
Thats easy, because theres no problems to fix, no need to make sure the bevel is right before you move on etc. Its just a case of doing some laps (hone dependant) test shaving, and then maybe doing some more.
Honing (IMHO) gets tricky only when youre moving on to ebay babies, or ones that have problems (chips, warps etc) - thats when you call in the professionals
Thats easy, because theres no problems to fix, no need to make sure the bevel is right before you move on etc. Its just a case of doing some laps (hone dependant) test shaving, and then maybe doing some more.
Honing (IMHO) gets tricky only when youre moving on to ebay babies, or ones that have problems (chips, warps etc) - thats when you call in the professionals
Take my ideas with a grain of salt, but...
Make your first razor some kind of straight-spined, straight-edged blade. (In other words, no smiling blades). This kind is much easier to touch-up on a hone, paddle, whatever, because it lays perfectly flat every step of the way. (A cheap barber hone should do the trick.)
Now, most of these are going to be hollow ground, but I'm sure you can find a few wedges, which are more forgiving, and when you're starting out, you want as much forgiveness as you can get. (How about the american-made Red Imp, Bowdin, or Spike wedges? I recently fell in love with one. Granted, they are usually spike points, but I'm sure someone has a muted point they can sell you.)
But really, a straight-spined, round-pointed wedge with a good and inexpensive barber hone sounds like the ultimate starter package to me. (At least get the wedge and the round point.) IMHO, it doesn't get much easier/forgiving/newbie-friendly than that.
But that's me...
Me =)
Make your first razor some kind of straight-spined, straight-edged blade. (In other words, no smiling blades). This kind is much easier to touch-up on a hone, paddle, whatever, because it lays perfectly flat every step of the way. (A cheap barber hone should do the trick.)
Now, most of these are going to be hollow ground, but I'm sure you can find a few wedges, which are more forgiving, and when you're starting out, you want as much forgiveness as you can get. (How about the american-made Red Imp, Bowdin, or Spike wedges? I recently fell in love with one. Granted, they are usually spike points, but I'm sure someone has a muted point they can sell you.)
But really, a straight-spined, round-pointed wedge with a good and inexpensive barber hone sounds like the ultimate starter package to me. (At least get the wedge and the round point.) IMHO, it doesn't get much easier/forgiving/newbie-friendly than that.
But that's me...
Me =)
Varies from person to person and blade to blade, from what I know. I've heard about some guys getting several months out of a blade before having to touch it up; others get a week or two worth of shaves.
Here is what I tell people and it pretty much stands true, there are of course exceptions YMMV and all that..
When you get your first razor everything sucks
your stropping sucks, your technique sucks, your prep sucks, you get the picture...
You struggle through...
Your first honing MIGHT last 1 month...
Second time through things get slightly better, as in you, get slightly better same edge mind you...
You should increase from your last "time to honing", so 1-3 months...
Third time through you are now starting to get the hang of this stuff
Stropping and everything else is making sense, so you should increase time between honing again 3-6 months...
Keep in mind the razor and the edge haven't changed
you have !!!!!
When you get your first razor everything sucks
your stropping sucks, your technique sucks, your prep sucks, you get the picture...You struggle through...
Your first honing MIGHT last 1 month...
Second time through things get slightly better, as in you, get slightly better
same edge mind you...You should increase from your last "time to honing", so 1-3 months...
Third time through you are now starting to get the hang of this stuff
Stropping and everything else is making sense, so you should increase time between honing again 3-6 months...Keep in mind the razor and the edge haven't changed
you have !!!!!
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When you get your first razor everything sucks
Brilliant. =)
Me
Here is what I tell people and it pretty much stands true, there are of course exceptions YMMV and all that..
When you get your first razor everything sucks
You struggle through...
Your first honing MIGHT last 1 month...
Second time through things get slightly better, as in you, get slightly better
You should increase your last time to honing, so 1-3 months...
Third time through you are now starting to get the hang of this stuff
Keep in mind the razor and the edge haven't changed
This is probably the best description I have ever read concerning a beginning straight razor shaver.
Great Post!!!!!!!
Ray
Here is what I tell people and it pretty much stands true, there are of course exceptions YMMV and all that..
When you get your first razor everything sucks
You struggle through...
Your first honing MIGHT last 1 month...
Second time through things get slightly better, as in you, get slightly better
You should increase your last time to honing, so 1-3 months...
Third time through you are now starting to get the hang of this stuff
Keep in mind the razor and the edge haven't changed
Thanks Glen,
A great post --- you have captured the learning curve of straight razors.
I've printed it off and posted a copy next to the mirror where I shave.
Regards: john
I found honing quite an easy skill to learn - just follow the guides and start slowly and gently. Stropping, on the other hand, is difficult to do well and can really be what makes an edge last or go dull quickly.
A hone is expensive but is also a good investment as even a soft Norton stone will last a while and it's very difficult to do any permanent damage. Worst case, your razor gets sent off to a pro to be fixed. Best case, you realise that honing isn't that hard and you earn the smug pleasure of shaving with an edge you made yourself and telling everyone about it.
A hone is expensive but is also a good investment as even a soft Norton stone will last a while and it's very difficult to do any permanent damage. Worst case, your razor gets sent off to a pro to be fixed. Best case, you realise that honing isn't that hard and you earn the smug pleasure of shaving with an edge you made yourself and telling everyone about it.
For a beginner i would recomend a large paddle strop. This will help you strop better and make the blade last longer plust a two sided one can have paste on one side for keeping the edge up. I think paste strop and regular strop are both absolutely equally necessary. with those two i can go a year without a hone. and i do hone. The only time i really need to hone is if the blade touches something or if i just feel like redoing the blade for fun if it hasnt been done in months. i would recomend the DMT 8000 grit diamond stone. can't mess it up! Stays perfectly flat and just sprinkle some water on it. hardest part is knowing which side has the grit since it's so smooth and rubber feet aren't stuck on yet when you get it! and diamond cuts faster and it is fine grit enough. its about 80 or 90 dollars. About the grit, more accurate measure is the actual micron size and i forget but i think it's 3 micron. anyway, it is fine grit enough to go to a paste or strop after.
The reason for the paddle strop is it eliminates having to keep the strop very taught which is something that beginner's would tend to loosen the pull on. Secondly the leather can't curve in because it is flat on a board so you dont round off the edge of the blade and that will keep it sharper. Beginner's will put more pressure on the blade when stropping and that should be avoided but the leather wont deform as much on a paddle, again, making a sharper edge. Overall i find a large paddle more enjoyable since i dont have to use all that energy to keep the strop tight. i can focus on the blade pressure and technique more.
About the grind, the wedge will take longer to sharpen but will distort less if pressure is used when stropping. it will flex less and not follow the shape of the face as much either. I'm not sure about the edge angle but i would imagine that they dont get as sharp as a full hollow grind blade. i would want the sharpest blade in the beginning since it will cut easier and the biggest problem for me was that in the beginning it was hard to get the blade to high sharpness. a semi sharp wedge may not be as sharp or shave as well as a semi sharp full hollow.
For sharpness reference, i want the blade to cut the hairs that stick out of my hand in the air: about half way up them, not at the skin, easily. when it's really sharp all parts of the blade can do this and even split the hair as it cuts it. Keep in mind i dont have a fancy blade either, just a shave ready i bought off ebay for $45 so that i knew it wasn't a damaged edge.
Total price $90 for DMT and $50 for a shave ready straight and $30 for a paddle strop and your good to go for years. Much better than spending the same money on a new blade only.
The reason for the paddle strop is it eliminates having to keep the strop very taught which is something that beginner's would tend to loosen the pull on. Secondly the leather can't curve in because it is flat on a board so you dont round off the edge of the blade and that will keep it sharper. Beginner's will put more pressure on the blade when stropping and that should be avoided but the leather wont deform as much on a paddle, again, making a sharper edge. Overall i find a large paddle more enjoyable since i dont have to use all that energy to keep the strop tight. i can focus on the blade pressure and technique more.
About the grind, the wedge will take longer to sharpen but will distort less if pressure is used when stropping. it will flex less and not follow the shape of the face as much either. I'm not sure about the edge angle but i would imagine that they dont get as sharp as a full hollow grind blade. i would want the sharpest blade in the beginning since it will cut easier and the biggest problem for me was that in the beginning it was hard to get the blade to high sharpness. a semi sharp wedge may not be as sharp or shave as well as a semi sharp full hollow.
For sharpness reference, i want the blade to cut the hairs that stick out of my hand in the air: about half way up them, not at the skin, easily. when it's really sharp all parts of the blade can do this and even split the hair as it cuts it. Keep in mind i dont have a fancy blade either, just a shave ready i bought off ebay for $45 so that i knew it wasn't a damaged edge.
Total price $90 for DMT and $50 for a shave ready straight and $30 for a paddle strop and your good to go for years. Much better than spending the same money on a new blade only.
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