What's new

How I hone

I was asked how I hone in a thread, so here it is.

I set my bevels on a Norton 1k. I like it cause it's pretty fast/aggressive, and this is good for me cause I have a soft spot for wedges. If I could go back and do it again, I would probably get a Naniwa Chosera 1k, but that's not to say I'm unhappy with my Norton. Anyway, if I have a lot of work to do (chips/small frown), I'll drop down to my Naniwa 400. I prefer this over the Norton 220 because I find the Norton 220 releases grits very quickly, and these scratch the razor above the bevel and below the spine wear.

Once I have my bevel set, I move up to my Naniwa 5k. Sounds like a big jump, right? It's not. The Naniwa 3k and 5k can be used more or less interchangeably, but I prefer the 5k. I like the end result marginally more than with the 3k in it's place. Here is where it gets a bit "advanced." I start out with circles with "pressure," then circles with no pressure, and finish with 10-15 X strokes. In order for this to work, you have to be able to be able to apply pressure evenly across the whole razor, match the pressure when you switch to the other side of the razor, and know how much to use and when to back off either by checking the edge (makes the process very slow) or by feeling the feedback. I can't really provide numbers, because it depends on how firm you are. It's something you have to have the confidence to play around with, and I don't recommend it to new guys. It's very easy to end up with severe uneven wear on a razor.

From there I move up to the Naniwa 8k. All it takes is 10-20 X strokes, again depending on the honer. Oh, I guess there is also a dependence on the razor, because if the razor smiles, you need more strokes (smiling razor means each portion of the edge gets less hone time per stroke, so you need more strokes).

Next it's finisher time. I use my Asagi for the vast majority of razors that I hone now, but sometimes I use my vintage Thurry. I don't use my C12k or my coti anymore. C12k takes too long, and I get better shaving edges off my Asagi, Thurry, or C12k. Number depends on your individual hone, and naturals tend to be slower cutters than synthetics. Naniwa 12k will take 10-15 strokes. C12k will take at least 100. Most others fall somewhere in the middle.

Next is the strop. I still have the first strop I ever got, which is a second hand TM ... starter or apprentice or travel or something like that. Not fancy, only leather, no linen. 50 strokes, and then it's shave time.

Any questions?
 
Holli, a great write-up! Now, a couple of questions, if I may:

- Do you tape the spine?
- What stroke do you use when you set a bevel: X, circular, or regular?
- How and when do you get feedback for the sharpness?
- 100 strokes for C12K: The bare minimum or the maximum?
- Do you get that much-sought-after "smooth, buttery-like feeling" when you shave with the razors you honed?

The questions above refer only to non-smiling blades. Many thanks in advance!
 
I don't tape unless there is a special reason to, like a restored razor (even then, only sometimes), something fancy on the spine, or if someone asks me to.

I always use circles followed by 10-15 X's until I get up to the 8k. The circles remove the steel fast and the X's give be a uniform scratch pattern so I can TPT and see where the edge is.

You always get feedback from the hones. Each hone is different, so you need to really get familiar with your hones and know what to look for. It's one of those things you have to experience/learn on your own, no one can show you.

I found 100 strokes on the C12k was about what it too to reliably get edges where I wanted them to go, so it became my go-to number.

If I wasn't happy with my edges, I would not offer to hone anyone else's razors. I don't know how I would describe the feel, though.

The only thing that really changes with a smiling blade is you need to do something to ensure the whole edge gets time on the hones.
 
Holli, many thanks again! I had a hunch that my usual 40 strokes honing protocol on C12K was not cutting it, so to say! [I guess pun was intended.] I am trying to get the buttery-like smooth feeling on the edges. As Lynn describes it, "It is just really nice and smooth." My edges, as I would describe them, are nice and sharp. Gotta get them smooth!

I found 100 strokes on the C12k was about what it too to reliably get edges where I wanted them to go, so it became my go-to number.
 
I was asked how I hone in a thread, so here it is.

I set my bevels on a Norton 1k. I like it cause it's pretty fast/aggressive, and this is good for me cause I have a soft spot for wedges. If I could go back and do it again, I would probably get a Naniwa Chosera 1k, but that's not to say I'm unhappy with my Norton. Anyway, if I have a lot of work to do (chips/small frown), I'll drop down to my Naniwa 400. I prefer this over the Norton 220 because I find the Norton 220 releases grits very quickly, and these scratch the razor above the bevel and below the spine wear.

Once I have my bevel set, I move up to my Naniwa 5k. Sounds like a big jump, right? It's not. The Naniwa 3k and 5k can be used more or less interchangeably, but I prefer the 5k. I like the end result marginally more than with the 3k in it's place. Here is where it gets a bit "advanced." I start out with circles with "pressure," then circles with no pressure, and finish with 10-15 X strokes. In order for this to work, you have to be able to be able to apply pressure evenly across the whole razor, match the pressure when you switch to the other side of the razor, and know how much to use and when to back off either by checking the edge (makes the process very slow) or by feeling the feedback. I can't really provide numbers, because it depends on how firm you are. It's something you have to have the confidence to play around with, and I don't recommend it to new guys. It's very easy to end up with severe uneven wear on a razor.

From there I move up to the Naniwa 8k. All it takes is 10-20 X strokes, again depending on the honer. Oh, I guess there is also a dependence on the razor, because if the razor smiles, you need more strokes (smiling razor means each portion of the edge gets less hone time per stroke, so you need more strokes).

Next it's finisher time. I use my Asagi for the vast majority of razors that I hone now, but sometimes I use my vintage Thurry. I don't use my C12k or my coti anymore. C12k takes too long, and I get better shaving edges off my Asagi, Thurry, or C12k. Number depends on your individual hone, and naturals tend to be slower cutters than synthetics. Naniwa 12k will take 10-15 strokes. C12k will take at least 100. Most others fall somewhere in the middle.

Next is the strop. I still have the first strop I ever got, which is a second hand TM ... starter or apprentice or travel or something like that. Not fancy, only leather, no linen. 50 strokes, and then it's shave time.

Any questions?

That's a nice set-up you have there. I would be interested to know how much money you have tied up in hones and whether you would recommend this exact set-up to everyone who hones razors or would you make a distinction between those who are providing a honing service and those who are just honing their own razors. There are many different ways to get to the same end result and I would be interested in hearing the criteria you used to arrive at this particular set-up or did you just end up with the hones that you like best?
 
I came to my current setup in pieces. I used to use Spyderco medium and fine hones, but didn't like them. I had played with Nortons a little and didn't really like the feedback. I've also always been put off by Shaptons (I don't know why, I just am not wild about them), and I didn't know about Naniwas at the time, so I got a BBW/coti. Yup, for the most part, I leaned the basics of honing on a hone I would not recommend to beginners.

Not long after, I bought a King 1k to set bevels, because, given the cost of the King ($25-$25?), I didn't see any reason to spend all the time on my coti setting bevels. Then, a friend of mine let me try his razors off a C12k - cut much better than his off a coti or mine off a coti, so I got one of those.

I think the next change was getting the Norton 220/1k. The King wasn't a full 3 inches wide, so it wasn't as easy to use circles on it to set bevels. The Norton is also faster.

When the number of razors I was honing started to increase a bit, I wanted to reduce the amount of time to hone each and also increase the consistancy in my results. I got to try Naniwas when Lynn came to a meet here in WNY, and he even showed me how he uses them. I fell in love with these hones - the feedback, the cut speed, the consistancy - everything. I promptly picked up the Naniwa 5k and 8k.

Somewhere in there, definitely after the Norton 1k (and maybe after the Naniwas... I don't remember), I was given the Asagi as a gift. I never would have bought such an expensive stone for myself because the initial investmet is so large, but now that I have it, I actually think it is a very good buy, even if the cost is a couple hundred. It's fast, the edges are fantastic, the feedback makes it easy to use, and, considering the number of razors I do (I'd say at least 10 per week recently), the cost per razor (or think of it as cost per month/year, cause she'll last a lifetime) is not that high. The only thing is that you need to make sure you buy from a reputable seller. Mine came from oldschoolshaving.net, and I would highly recommend him.

The Thurry was a pretty recent buy. I got her in an ebay lot with two coti's. Given the cost of the lot and what the pieces were individually worth, it was an excellent buy. But, as with all things on ebay, you have to keep your eyes open and be patient.

Oh, and the Naniwa 400 was also given to me as a gift. I'm glad it was too, because I'm the type that will be stubborn with that I've got till I really get frustrated. This saved me that frustration.

And I lap with a DMT6C. I wish I'd got something bigger for initial lappings, but for subsequent lappings it's good.

Anyway, total cost for my current setup:
Naniwa 400 was a gift (retail is $27 at SRD)
Norton 220/1k - About $35 at Woodcraft (I have one locally)
Naniwa 5k - $49 at SRD
Naniwa 8k - $59 at SRD
Asagi was a gift. Can be up to a couple hundred dollars. This is why I recommend the Naniwa 12k for about $75. Excellent hone at a great price.
Thurry - Came in a lot, net cost was $0
DMT6C - $31 at Woodcraft

So it's not the cheapest setup, but, aside from the Asagi, I have no trouble recommending it, even at the cost.
 
Very nice write-up, thanks. I started with a barbers hone and ended with coticules and a Jnat via the Norton 4K/8K. As has been said before, there are many ways to sharp.
 
Thanks for all the clear and specific details, greatly appreciated.

Although I haven't touched a razor to hone yet I am absorbing a ton of information and it's really helping me plan out my first honing setup.
 
Very helpful thread. One more question for you - what technique / stroke / pressure do you use to correct a slight frown?
 
Very helpful thread. One more question for you - what technique / stroke / pressure do you use to correct a slight frown?

It really depends. Normally I start out on the Norton 1k with firm pressure and circles to see where that gets me. From there, it depends on what happens.

Removing frowns really starts you into restoration, not just normal honing, and I would suggest not trying it until you can consistently hone up blades that have no issues first.
 
Anyway, total cost for my current setup:
Naniwa 400 was a gift (retail is $27 at SRD)
Norton 220/1k - About $35 at Woodcraft (I have one locally)
Naniwa 5k - $49 at SRD
Naniwa 8k - $59 at SRD
Asagi was a gift. Can be up to a couple hundred dollars. This is why I recommend the Naniwa 12k for about $75. Excellent hone at a great price.
Thurry - Came in a lot, net cost was $0
DMT6C - $31 at Woodcraft

So it's not the cheapest setup, but, aside from the Asagi, I have no trouble recommending it, even at the cost.


Do you use a slurry with all/none/any of these stones?
 
Thanks for sharing how you hone. There are more than a few nuggets of wisdom with which I wholeheartedly agree: the Naniwas are great hones, the C12K is slow(!), I too learned how to hone with the BBW and Coticule and wouldn't recommend them to beginners, Asagis are worth the cost if you take the time to learn how to use them...
 
Thanks for sharing how you hone. There are more than a few nuggets of wisdom with which I wholeheartedly agree: the Naniwas are great hones, the C12K is slow(!), I too learned how to hone with the BBW and Coticule and wouldn't recommend them to beginners, Asagis are worth the cost if you take the time to learn how to use them...
I do recommend coticules to beginners. You just need the patience to experiment with them a little bit. Why would a coticule be more difficult, because of the slurry?
 
I do recommend coticules to beginners. You just need the patience to experiment with them a little bit. Why would a coticule be more difficult, because of the slurry?

As a n00b, it was rather challenging for me to get the most out of it. IMHO, there are easier hones to use which provide more consistent results. Of course, I'll admit to bias - I rarely use either my Coticule or Escher anymore.
 
Top Bottom