I have a CV Heljestrand faux frame back with a barber's notch that has been sitting in the drawer for several months. I decided to hone it and it is shaping up well with a perfectly even bevel. I've been running it lightly with a bit of forward torque for about 40 minutes on a Shapton glass 1k. And it is nowhere near a bevel. It glides on a tomato without coming anywhere near cutting it. There is just a faint gray of swarf on the blade. With any other blade, I would have been pushing black swarf by now. I'm thinking it is Swedish stainless, but not sure. And it must be super hard. I wonder if anyone knows the Rockwell C rating for this steel? And any tips on honing it?
Honing Swedish steel
- Thread starter Eastcoast30
- Start date
I believe this is what the steel would be Sandvik 12C27™ knife steel — Sandvik Materials Technology - https://www.materials.sandvik/en/products/strip-steel/strip-products/knife-steel/sandvik-knife-steels/sandvik-12c27/ I haven't honed any SS yet.
It’s just hard, and hones like stainless if you have experience with them. I haven’t done a frameback, but I have a few full hollows. They just go slower.
try a 600/800 wet/dry sandpaper to speed things up maybe. Just watch for removing more metal from the bolsters than the edge if you aren’t using tape.
try a 600/800 wet/dry sandpaper to speed things up maybe. Just watch for removing more metal from the bolsters than the edge if you aren’t using tape.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
It’s just hard as said above. You’ll get there, don’t push too hard, hone for a longer time. You’ll be rewarded with a fine edge that lasts a long time.
Great steel. My Swedes are really fond of a Jnat finish (who isn’t).
Hard to believe that there’s any razor left after 40 minutes on a 1k Shapton! A/O film cuts them pretty well too.
Hard to believe that there’s any razor left after 40 minutes on a 1k Shapton! A/O film cuts them pretty well too.
Exactly as Steve wrote. I've honed a few Swedish razors.
I had a similar experience finishing two TI C135 razors a few weeks back. In my case, I spent a bunch of time not making any progress and not generating any swarf, and then I started using what Keith calls half strokes at around 16:50 in this video:
Chip Removal and Bevel Setting on a Washita - YouTube
And finally I started to generate a little swarf and the edge gained sharpness. I only used light to moderate pressure, and I followed up with circles and x-strokes. But what I will simply describe as working the edge with different motions made the difference.
I was finishing a full hollow razor, not setting the bevel on a frameback. And both razors are now really sharp and provide close comfortable shaves.
Chip Removal and Bevel Setting on a Washita - YouTube
And finally I started to generate a little swarf and the edge gained sharpness. I only used light to moderate pressure, and I followed up with circles and x-strokes. But what I will simply describe as working the edge with different motions made the difference.
I was finishing a full hollow razor, not setting the bevel on a frameback. And both razors are now really sharp and provide close comfortable shaves.
What is a frameback?
a style that saves on good steel by wrapping/fixing a lesser quality steel/brass tubing onto it as a spine.
Image:Straight_Razor_Frameback_Grind.jpg - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Image:Straight_Razor_Frameback_Grind_jpg
Are you taping the spine? Only ask because you might be wearing that out faster than the edge and you will never get a bevel.
If you are, make sure you change the tape often and stick to it
If you are, make sure you change the tape often and stick to it
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks, yes. I am using 1 mil kapton (2.5 mil w/adhesive). I saw it start to wear through and I am replacing it now. Fortunately, I saw it wear before incurring any significant spine wear. It is still quite a bit of work to get to a bevel; at first only the heel was cutting tomato. The bevel is finally beginning to move towards the toe. I suspect I will be at it for a while. I'm thinking of switching to 33+ tape.
This, period.
I also have found that rolling x strokes are the way to go with these razors. Most Swedish razors especially the frame backs have a slight smile to them and seem to come together quickly with their use. Early on in my honing journey, I remember destroying the looks of a Klas Tornblom by flat honing it on a King 1K for hours. I bet I flattened the king 4 times during the process…. It shaves amazingly, but I learned too late the benefits of this skill.
Best wishes!
Best wishes!
- Thread starter
- #15
Thanks, I have switched to a thicker tape and I have noticed that the rolling x stroke seems to work best with this razor. I have all but the toe now. I had ordered a Shapton 500 to help with chip removal. That should be in any day and will hopefully save me some time.
@estcoast30, just read it's a faux frameback. I missed that the first time. once you get it set, I'd go back and get it set without tape and work the progression from there if the steel is homogeneous. I've got a Joseph Rogers Rattler and I love it. a CVH should make an excellent version once you get it there.
- Thread starter
- #17
"I'd go back and get it set without tape", that's an interesting idea. I have thought about that from time to time, but had my concerns.
