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Help identifying this gillette razor?

Hey guys.

So last weekend I went to a local antique store and picked up a 62 slim adjustable which has become my go-to shaver since as I relearn some technique so it doesn't tear my face off ATG, but while I was there I talked to a lady that worked there and she said she would look at home for more razors, she only found one and she seemed to like me so given the state it was in, she gave it to me for free along with a half used package of gilette stainless blades, and here it is.

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This baby has seen some SERIOUS mileage, the soap buildup was massive as you can see in the pictures, and the plating hasn't come off the handle, that's crud and skin oil that has built up over years and years of use. The question is: what is it? Once I got all the soap off, I could read on the back of the head is says in order on each corner:

REG US PAT OFF.
Gillette logo Made in USA

Here are 3 more pics with more detail

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I have little use for this razor unless I could somehow take the head off of this one which is in slightly better condition than the one on my slim and put it on there. Is it possible to do this kind of transplant? If not this razor will end up as a PIF.
 
oh yeah I did forget to ask, how do I clean all that crap off?! what kind of product will power thru all that crap and not harm the finish? Also, is it normal to have to unscrew the bottom and then push up on the bottom to make the doors open up? screwing it only loosens the bottom and the silo doors do not open until you push it up from the very bottom end.
 
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40s Super Speed I would think.
I dont think heads are interchangeable, and certainly not with an adjustable head
(now I post and wait to be corrected :) )
 
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oh yeah I did forget to ask, how do I clean all that crap off?! what kind of product will power thru all that crap and not harm the finish? Also, is it normal to have to unscrew the bottom and then push up on the bottom to make the doors open up? screwing it only loosens the bottom and the silo doors do not open until you push it up from the very bottom end.

Unless it's a rocket, which it doesn't look like it is, pushing up on the bottom means it is broken! Shouldn't affect the shave though. My grandfather still uses a ~1949 super speed that is broken in the same manner. :001_smile
 

luvmysuper

My elbows leak
Staff member
Long soaks in Scrubbing Bubbles, and toothbrushes

Yep. And maybe some toothpicks for the stuff that won't come out of the grooves.

40's Superspeed. Looks like the end caps are there, just all gunked over.

There may or may not be a date code (letter and number) near the other writing but you can't tell until it's clean.

If you get a shot of the inside where the blade goes so we can see the center bar, it's possible to narrow it down to a date range.

There's a fix for that loose handle. I'll try to find the thread.

You'll be surprised how good it looks when it's cleaned up.
 
re: end caps
d'oh. the white gunk confused me. I plead the 5th.

Amazing how 40 years of dirty finger oil can end up looking a bit like a black painted SA or flare tip.
or rather, yuck......
 
Put the razor in a ceramic or pyrex dish with some Dawn dish soap, and pour boiling water on it and let it soak. Lather, rinse, repeat. Scrub with an old toothbrush. Use nothing stronger than dish soap and time. A toothpick will help dig the crud out of the handle knurls.

Looks like the end caps are there. Also sounds like the crimp in the lower handle that retains the TTO knob needs to be tightened by rolling the razor over the edge of a countertop using the backside of a butter knife. Easy fix, and the doors will open like new.

These old Super Speeds shave like a dream, were well-constructed, and once cleaned will shine brightly once polished with MAAS or Simichrome.

If you don't feel inclined to restore it yourself, I'd do it for you for a modest fee . . . PM me if you are interested!
 
If the opening mechanism is fixable (and maybe you'll find it's just super gunked up?), I would consider such a free razor to be an excellent candidate for replating.
 
Nailed it down to a 1947 SS since the bar isn't notched, cleaned up pretty nice and I'll post some post cleaning pics later when I get the time
 
oh yeah I did forget to ask, how do I clean all that crap off?! what kind of product will power thru all that crap and not harm the finish? Also, is it normal to have to unscrew the bottom and then push up on the bottom to make the doors open up? screwing it only loosens the bottom and the silo doors do not open until you push it up from the very bottom end.

i say let it soak in hot soapy tap water for maybe an hour then scrub with a tooth brush. then give it a good soaking in scrubbing bubbles (but not too long) maybe 10 mins. that scrub it down again.

as far as the tto know having to be pushed in to open the doors after u unscrew it, its not supposed to do that. it needs to be scrimped again so that the tto doesnt fall when u open it. people have mentioned using a pipe cutter and maybe using a cloth as a barrier so u dont actually cut the razor. i havent tried it tho so i just assume thats how they do it.
 
Nailed it down to a 1947 SS since the bar isn't notched, cleaned up pretty nice and I'll post some post cleaning pics later when I get the time

it looks notched to me which would put it in the 48-49 time frame. can u take a picture of the top part with the butterfly doors open? this is what the 47 looks like and from the pic u posted it doesnt look like that.

http://mr-razor.com/Rasierer/One-Piece%20solid%20guard%20bar/1947%20Super-Speed%20with%20Speedpak.JPG
 
It doesn't look like a '47 to me either, but it's hard to be certain with those photos. Also, that half of the case that you found it in would be correct starting in '49, and I can't imagine someone would have bothered to try to match that razor in its condition up with a style-appropriate case -- although it's certainly possible.

I think you'll be surprised at how much of that stuff will just fall off after a good, long hot water soak. You may even find a date code under all that cruft after all.
 
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