Gun cleaning 101 - Ruger Blackhawk revolver

[Toothpick]

I picked up this today to clean my fathers Ruger New Model Blackhawk .45 single action revolver. It needs a good cleaning before range time and after range time. I've never cleaned a weapon before so hoping for some insight.



I've read the directions and it seems simple enough. As I said I've never cleaned a gun before and as simple as it sounds I can't help but think...."this can't be all there is to it"

Any tips or tricks for cleaning?

Also the directions say to insert the cleaning rod from the breech and push out the muzzle first, then repeat the opposite way. Well to me that seems impossible with this gun. Looks like the only way to clean it is straight down the muzzle end.

here is the Ruger for reference.

 

[hillbilly pick]

Go ahead and learn how to dismantle it. It would be good to remove the cylinder. Since it has been a while and you want to learn the weapon, just get to it. I always take pictures of each step for myself, I take out a screw, take a picture, put the screw on a clean cloth, take a picture of the cloth. This way I am sure to get the screws in the same spot and if I have to take a break, I will have a step-by-step of how far I have come.

give it a through cleaning and oiling.

yes muzzle is the only way. I use jags with cloth pads so that it is one way. Push it through, place patch on muzzle again and jag it through. The jag is better than slot tip IMHO. Lessons the margin of error.

hoppe's 9 is my favorite solvent. Good kit, take your time, and I would add a silicone cloth for final wipe down.

 

[Toothpick]

Go ahead and learn how to dismantle it. It would be good to remove the cylinder. Since it has been a while and you want to learn the weapon, just get to it. I always take pictures of each step for myself, I take out a screw, take a picture, put the screw on a clean cloth, take a picture of the cloth. This way I am sure to get the screws in the same spot and if I have to take a break, I will have a step-by-step of how far I have come.

give it a through cleaning and oiling.

yes muzzle is the only way. I use jags with cloth pads so that it is one way. Push it through, place patch on muzzle again and jag it through. The jag is better than slot tip IMHO. Lessons the margin of error.

hoppe's 9 is my favorite solvent. Good kit, take your time, and I would add a silicone cloth for final wipe down.

I knew I should have got the gun cleaning pad! That's a good idea with the pictures and the silicone cloth.

I do want to learn this weapon as one day it will likely be mine. In a way it already is, but I've never gotten the official "you can have it" nod.

 

[hillbilly pick]

I understand. I would at least remove the cylinder. Good clean, not too much oil little goes a long way.

Take a white piece of paper and while cleaning hold that paper breach end and look down the muzzle. The white paper gives contrast and reflects light.

 

[Toothpick]

I understand. I would at least remove the cylinder. Good clean, not too much oil little goes a long way.

Take a white piece of paper and while cleaning hold that paper breach end and look down the muzzle. The white paper gives contrast and reflects light.

Wouldn't have thought to do that either. Tips like that are good to know! Thanks!

 

[OkieStubble]

Froglube

 

[bristlepuss]

The most important thing is point it in a safe direction and then check make sure it's unloaded. Then check it again... and then once more just to make sure.

After ensuring that it is unloaded, disassemble in this order: **** to half ****, open the loading gate, press the retaining button(the thing in front of cylinder in the frame) and then pull the cylinder pin out toward the muzzle. The cylinder will slide out on the loading gate side. You don't need a screw driver or any tools to do this, either. Once the cylinder is out, inspect the bore and cylinder for issues. Begin with a brass brush of the appropriate diameter and wet it with the cleaner before running it through the barrel and cylinder chambers a few times. Then, switch to patches and run a few wetted ones through followed by some dry ones to remove the fouling. Finish up by running a lightly oiled patch through to leave a film of oil in barrel. After reassembly, wipe the whole thing down with a lightly oiled rag.

Personally, I would only clean it after firing it (and probably not every time, either). Modern cartridges have no corrosive compounds so it does not damage anything to leave it with a dirty bore for a while as long as it is kept in a dry environment. That Ruger is one of the most reliable handguns ever made and it requires no fancy maintenance.

 

[Toothpick]

The most important thing is point it in a safe direction and then check make sure it's unloaded. Then check it again... and then once more just to make sure.

After ensuring that it is unloaded, disassemble in this order: **** to half ****, open the loading gate, press the retaining button(the thing in front of cylinder in the frame) and then pull the cylinder pin out toward the muzzle. The cylinder will slide out on the loading gate side. You don't need a screw driver or any tools to do this, either. Once the cylinder is out, inspect the bore and cylinder for issues. Begin with a brass brush of the appropriate diameter and wet it with the cleaner before running it through the barrel and cylinder chambers a few times. Then, switch to patches and run a few wetted ones through followed by some dry ones to remove the fouling. Finish up by running a lightly oiled patch through to leave a film of oil in barrel. After reassembly, wipe the whole thing down with a lightly oiled rag.

Personally, I would only clean it after firing it (and probably not every time, either). Modern cartridges have no corrosive compounds so it does not damage anything to leave it with a dirty bore for a while as long as it is kept in a dry environment. That Ruger is one of the most reliable handguns ever made and it requires no fancy maintenance.

Thanks for the step by step. Do I oil the bullet chambers as well?

The gun has been in a gun sock for about 10 years I'd say. Only taken out for the occasional "check this out". Which is why I want to give it a good cleaning before I fire it.

 

[N1CK]

Thanks for the step by step. Do I oil the bullet chambers as well? The gun has been in a gun sock for about 10 years I'd say. Only taken out for the occasional "check this out". Which is why I want to give it a good cleaning before I fire it.

No don't oil the chambers. Brass is essentially a gasket and it needs to grip the cylinder wall. Also, no half **** on a new model Blackhawk.

 

[Toothpick]

No don't oil the chambers. Brass is essentially a gasket and it needs to grip the cylinder wall. Also, no half **** on a new model Blackhawk.

ya know what...I never felt a half **** on it. But heck, I don't know much about firearms yet.

I never read anything that said to oil the chambers but again, there are lots of tips that don't get put in the directions.

 

[N1CK]

I always remove the cylinder when I clean mine. You'll find the hardest areas to clean will be the front of the cylinder face, the throat area of the chamber, and the forcing cone area. The cylinder throats can be a real pain because Ruger's tends to have undersized throats.

As you've noticed the only way to clean the barrel is from the front. Before cleaning, with the cylinder out, take a good look down the barrel and see what you see. Use a piece of white paper, or your thumb nail, to reflect light up the barrel. Get an idea of how it looks before. Who knows how dirty it is and it depends a lot on what kind of ammo, lead or jacketed, has been shot through the thing over the years.

My big tip is patience. Let the solvent do the work for you. If you have a brass .45 caliber brush use it. Put some solvent on it, and not by dipping the brush in the solvent, and run it down the barrel till it comes out the other end then pull it back through. Do this 15-20 times and then wait. Give it a good 10 minutes at least. Then move to solvent soaked patches. Don't go for super clean, rather go for clean enough.

As far as oil goes you don't need much. One oil soaked patch down the barrel followed by a dry patch after cleaning is enough. There are other areas where you could also put one drop of oil. **** the hammer and drop one, or two, drops of oil down in between the hammer and the transfer bar. Also put a drop on the pawl, cylinder latch, front of cylinder and rear of cylinder where the pawl engages the notches.

Don't forget to clean and oil the ejector rod. Have fun be safe.

 

[P Funk]

Very nice Ruger.
A revolver is much easier to clean then a semi-auto so this works out well for you to get your feet wet.
All great tips here. Don't be afraid to disassemble and clean the gun often. In addition to keeping it in great shape, you will figure out the best method/steps for cleaning this particular handgun. I'll disassemble and clean all of mine after each takes a trip to the range. It may be a bit of overkill but it helps me keep familiarity with the weapon.

+1 on the Froglube - works great and you won't feel like you worked on your car after the cleaning

Have fun!

 

[Toothpick]

does anyone have a picture, link, or some type of visual reference that will tell me what each part of the gun is called?

I don't what what the pawl is and transfer bar.

 

[Ronnie Aloha]

A tip on disassembling, make sure your screwdriver heads size match the heads of the screws and don't over tighten. You can strip heads and scratch your gun if these happen.

 

[N1CK]

You can get the manual, and other info like year manufactured, from Ruger's web site. The manual will have an exploded view. Sorry I assumed you had the manual laying around somewhere.

http://www.ruger.com/service/productHistory.html

Pretty sure the following pdf is what you need.

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/blackhawk.pdf

Don't know how sentimental this gun is being your fathers, but if you rarely shoot it I would highly recommend instead of using oil on the outside for protection before you put it away get yourself a RIG Rag. I got turned on to one of these over at Castboolits and they're great.

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ag-universal-grease-applicator-prod31843.aspx

Very nice Ruger.
A revolver is much easier to clean then a semi-auto so this works out well for you to get your feet wet.
All great tips here. Don't be afraid to disassemble and clean the gun often. In addition to keeping it in great shape, you will figure out the best method/steps for cleaning this particular handgun. I'll disassemble and clean all of mine after each takes a trip to the range. It may be a bit of overkill but it helps me keep familiarity with the weapon.

+1 on the Froglube - works great and you won't feel like you worked on your car after the cleaning

Have fun!

Me personally I would much rather clean a semi-auto than than a revolver. Frik'n seven holes to clean vs one.

 

[Commander Quan]

Froglube

Makes guns minty fresh.

 

[P Funk]

Me personally I would much rather clean a semi-auto than than a revolver. Frik'n seven holes to clean vs one.

I should have specified disassemble (or at least field strip) not clean. No slide, spring, barrel, etc to remove on a revolver to give it a good once over.

 

[ackvil]

Here is a fairly good video for you to look at.

 

[jkingrph]

Like most have said, remove cylinder to clean it and make cleaning barrel easier. Further disassembly to get to internal workings is rarely needed on a modern gun. Very little lubricant is needed in there, in fact one French maker of high grade sliding breech shotguns Darne,does not recommend disassembly of their breech, but simply dip in into diesel fuel, and let drip dry.

A similar procedure could be used on the firing mechanism of the Ruger, just remove grips, put a little lightweight oil in some mineral spirits, and dip or squirt into openings, then stand it up and let drip dry, leaving a very thin film of oil inside.. The company my dad once worked for had a typewriter repair shop and that is how they cleaned and lubed the old manual typewriters. Dad used to take some guns down there and clean like that. He did it for nearly 50 years and never had any problems, and I still have some of the guns, in good working order.


It's not rocket science like a lot of folks, especially those making cleaning supplies make it out to be. I have one of those guns and all I do is clean the barrel and cylinder. It's ok to oil inside of barrel and cylinder for storage, but it's best to wipe out before using, especially the cylinder, as others said the brass case needed to grip the chamber walls when firing. If too slick the cartridge case can actually slide back and exert more pressure on the frame behind the cylinder.

 

[oldbluelight]

One tip that is important on all firearms cleaned from the muzzle is to protect the rifling at the muzzle from abrasion by the cleaning rod or any abrasive materials that might become imbedded in it. Your rod appears to be aluminum and is therefore soft enough to easily imbed small particles of gritty material. With the type of rod you have use the thumb and forefinger of the hand holding the barrel to keep the rod from contacting the rifling. Over time wear on this area will destroy the accuracy of any firearm. Several companies manufacture cleaning rods that come with a separate, cone-shaped, center-bored muzzle guard that allows the rod to enter the bore centered in the guard eliminating all possibility of contact with the rifling.