Getting ready to go to the store(Lowe's) and I need some idea of what I need to restore a couple brushes. It's my first restore... like what sandpaper,drill bits, polish, glue for knot?? Anything else..here's what I'm working on:View attachment 291220View attachment 291221
Gonna do a restore,first one, What supplies do I need?
- Thread starter wscottb7862
- Start date
First it appears that the top of the handle is scarred up a bit. If that happened when removing the knot, you will find that using several layers of masking tape before removing the knot helps to reduce this dramatically when you do the next one.
You should wet sand the top down with some 800 grit then 1000 grit then 1500 grit sandpaper found at most auto parts stores.
By keeping the handle in flowing water while sanding you will help to prevent more scratches.
One the top is cleaned up, then have some good polish (Flitz) to polish the handles.
Flitz is great for metals and plastics.
Then have a good two part epoxy that is waterproof. I use JB Weld but there are other great epoxies.
Good fortune.
You should wet sand the top down with some 800 grit then 1000 grit then 1500 grit sandpaper found at most auto parts stores.
By keeping the handle in flowing water while sanding you will help to prevent more scratches.
One the top is cleaned up, then have some good polish (Flitz) to polish the handles.
Flitz is great for metals and plastics.
Then have a good two part epoxy that is waterproof. I use JB Weld but there are other great epoxies.
Good fortune.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks!! Went looking for Flitz, but not at the local ACE hardware store.. Got the sandpaper.. No idea where those marks came from..unless the owners before me tried to get a knot out..It was very loose, it just pulled out, with a little effort..guess I'll order the Flitz online and get to sanding.. Thanks for the help!!
If the rest of the handle is in good shape only sand the top and go very gently with flowing water and start with the 800 and rub it as you would the top of a bottle always in the same direction. Then move to 1000 grit then 1500 grit. Be sure to rub it with a clean soft cloth from time to time to make sure that all the grit is off (especially when changing grit sizes). What should happen is each higher grit will sand at a smaller level and not leave as much sanding scratch as well as the water to reduce friction and clean the handle.
Good fortune.
- Thread starter
- #5
Running water,like under a kitchen faucet? And should I knock out the partial shelf left inside? Or leave it?
Once again thanks
Yes to running water since that will wash away grit and particles to keep from gouging even further.
As to the shelf, if you are o.k. with the loft where the shelf is at, then leave it. If you punch it through you may have buildup to create a new shelf. That is up to you, but put the knot in temporarily if you can and measure the loft from the end of the handle to the end of the hairs with a ruler that has mm or cm (multiply cm by 10 to mm). What is that number? 47 - 54 mm depending upon whether you want to set it up with more backbone 47 mm or less backbone 54 mm is a good range.
Good fortune.
- Thread starter
- #7
Used the "Steam Method" to remove the knot from the Klenzo. Put the brush in 2 bowls stacked on top of each other in the water. Just a precaution so the handle didn't receive too much heat..Worked great!!! Looks like a a large mass of "glue" or whatever was used to secure the knot inside is leftover. Looks like a "dome". I guess from the "concaveness" from the bottom of the knot. On to the next phase with this one!!
Can't wait to see the finished product. These will be beautiful.
- Thread starter
- #9
The wet sanding is starting to get into the white of the butterscotch... is this normal will the color come back?? Should I keep going or stop??
Stop, that is about the best you will be able to do and the color will not self restore quickly. One way to deal with a handle in this shape is to find a knot that will "bloom" large and reduce the visual image of the scratches. Another way is to a knot that has a cup. A final way is to enlarge the hole with a Dremel sanding wheel and reduce the effects of the scratches by taking away that surface area and replacing it with a larger knot.
What size is the diameter of hole as it is now in millimeters (mm)?
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- #11
It's around 19 or 19.5 mm. I can drop a penny in it.
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- #12
All shined up and waiting for the knots...
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- Thread starter
- #13
Okey Doke almost done!! Set a TGN 20mm Super Silvertip in this one, with a 45mm loft. Set it on top of 2 pennies with Permatex Clear RTV Silicone. Waiting for it to set up and then a little more polishing and a couple shampoo's and couple test lather's and then it's shave time. I'll post bloom pictures when it's bloomed!! Thanks for all the input fellas, I couldn't have done it without you...
Excellent work! Looks great!
It turned out very nice. Great work!
That looks amazing! Very nice job!
I am looking forward to your thoughts on the Super Silvertip. It looks like it's going to be a winner.
I am looking forward to your thoughts on the Super Silvertip. It looks like it's going to be a winner.
This is what I was referring to in your other thread about them both being "real" butterscotch. Both of those handles started out as a ivory color, and over the years the combination of UV rays and a chemical reaction tuners it that nice butterscotch color. And as you were sanding you where getting back to the original color. That one looks awesome, make sure you give the RTV a good long time to set up. Nice work man.
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- #18
Thanks Matt and Gary.. Thanks for all the help also!! Hard to hold back from getting it wet... what's the cure time? 24hrs?
Those butterscotch's are just amazing with all that goes on with them, almost like a living organism they way they change...pretty cool. The Klenzo is up next... Think I might be hooked!
Those butterscotch's are just amazing with all that goes on with them, almost like a living organism they way they change...pretty cool. The Klenzo is up next... Think I might be hooked!
Thanks Matt and Gary.. Thanks for all the help also!! Hard to hold back from getting it wet... what's the cure time? 24hrs?
Those butterscotch's are just amazing with all that goes on with them, almost like a living organism they way they change...pretty cool. The Klenzo is up next... Think I might be hooked!
24 hours generally is a good cure time. If I work with wood I will let those cure a little longer maybe 36 to 48 hours.
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- #20
Waited the allotted 24hrs before shampooing and lathering the Aristocrat up.. It feels like it soaks a gallon of water up. Still feels a bit more prickly when dry compared to the Whipped Dog 24mm Silvertip... Took some comparison pics next to the 24mm silvertip..
