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For The Tool Bag & Hardhat Crowd - Multimeters

Gents, I wanted to pass along a point that was reinforced in a big way to me this very day. Before we go further there is no horror story here. Only an attempt to make the weekend warriors and DIY'ers understand something.

Digital multimeters are one of the greatest inventions of the 20th century. That is no exaggeration. It really isn't. Digital display diagnostic and test equipment revolutionised the service industry. What used to involve nearly hand made and very EXPENSIVE array of various analogue test equipment is now accomplished in a handheld package costing from $100-500. Much more for more specialised equipment but the latter figure will buy you a Fluke 87-V and a couple of extra test clips. I use one daily at my work and it is WELL worth the money. I also use a lighter weight stick meter type Fluke. The T-5 1000. A handier service tool you won't find.

I was troubleshooting the trigger group of a power mitre saw today when the junky meter I use for this lost its connection to one of the test probes. I am off work this week and don't have my Flukes to hand. So off to the Home Depot I go to secure another cheap, junk drawer meter. I got it home, inserted batteries, and turned the dial to continuity. Nothing. I removed and replaced the leads and fiddled around and finally got a good 'beep' when the leads were shorted together. And it worked for all of five minutes. When I started to prove the switch I was not getting any continuity between any terminals. What the...? Hmmm. Some of these newer tools have micro sized circuit boards in them with limiter capacitors and/or high limit fuse/switch devises. When they fail, many times they will not let the saw operate at all. The only recourse is a new switch. This one did not appear to be of that variety. The meter was displaying the continuity symbol on the screen. So I shorted the leads together and...nothing. What a piece of junk. And it is clearly marked CAT III 600v on the front. It has to be alright, yeah?

Here's the long and short of it. These cheap meters are nothing short of dangerous. As you may have noted, I was using this for continuity testing. I never use this junk for mains voltage testing or troubleshooting. If it cannot manage a 3 volt circuit to make an electronic beeper sound do you feel comfortable testing 240 or 480 volts with it? Just.Don't.Do.It. They most certainly can explode in your hands if they are not assembled correctly. I worked with a gent who had exactly such a thing happen when he stuck his leads on 480v street lighting circuit. The meter exploded in his hands. It's a small miracle he was not badly burned.

I understand a four or five hundred dollar Fluke is not always the answer(oh the hell it's not. most just cannot honestly justify the expense) but there are plenty of good, serviceable meters out there for well under $200. Fluke, Greenlee, and Brymen all make meters in that range. The latter is hard to get in the USA but many Greenlees are rebadged versions but with significantly higher pricing. You are most certainly paying for insurance and warranty with a major name like Greenlee on it. Ideal also has some meters out there but I do not know who they source them from. Klein has made a big push in the electrical test instrument market but I know nothing of their supplier or reputation in the field. I am speaking only to the meters with that last comment. Europeans are probably looking at Brymen or Gossen-Metrawatt. I have not handled the latter but they have a superb reputation. I don't know about pricing though. I think they tend more toward high end.

The piece of you know what is going back to HD tomorrow. And I am now plotting my indignant retort to the wife when she asks me why I am spending a few hundred dollars on a multimeter.
 
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Oh, the switch is fine. It was a mechanical issue that is now sorted. Sorry for the long rant but stay safe. Besides, I have an excuse to buy a new Fluke for myself.
 
I have an old, inexpensive analog display meter that I use occasionally, mainly to check batteries and wiring continuity. But I think your advice is good. I saw that Harbor Freight is currently giving away a Cen-Tech 7-Function Digital Multimeter for free with any purchase. Which made me question how accurate or reliable could it be for that price.
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I have always used Fluke DMM's for work as a heating engineer, I had a cheap one once and it was a little out with it's ac/dc readings and way out with it's resistance readings which isn't good when your trying to measure across the windings of a pump or fan to see what's blowing fuses in a boiler!
A good DMM is invaluable to me as they are needed for my job but I can see why a diy'er wouldn't want to fork out for one for the odd task, but my experience matches yours Todd, you do get what you pay for in this case.
 
You can save a lot of money buying the cheaper meters but you wont be able to take that money with you when they fail.
 
We've use Fluke at work, usually the kind with clamp-on amp coil. On one I used, the jack broke off where it attached to the circuit board. I soldered it and used it as a back-up, but never trusted it again. Another had a recall due to some not showing voltage even when present. They changed mine out the day after I used it to verify a large three-phase 277/480 v transformer was de-energized by checking the secondary voltage (the 277/480 v part). Nice.

I've also had a Radio Shack fail sitting in my desk drawer. No blown fuse or rhyme or reason. It just failed. And, of course, I've had cheap multimeters to fail, not including cases of operator error.

My point? Anything made by man is subject to fail. Always verify a multimeter is operating correctly before using. At home I even use a neon voltage tester, just in case.

In my tool bag I have a cheap electro-mechanical multimeter with a swing needle, that I use in the office at times for voltages under 240v. Bought it at a hardware store, and have used it to double check much more expensive digital multimeters. It's cheap, but it works.
 
I wouldn't recommend the ideal. I bought one after somebody stole my Fluke some years ago. It worked ok for a few months, but then it started giving me readings that were just silly and made no sense. (It would read something like 170v when it was actually 120v) Since then, it's been nothing but Fluke for me. Unless you need a super sensitive meter, the $100 Fluke is perfectly fine.
 
We've use Fluke at work, usually the kind with clamp-on amp coil. On one I used, the jack broke off where it attached to the circuit board. I soldered it and used it as a back-up, but never trusted it again. Another had a recall due to some not showing voltage even when present. They changed mine out the day after I used it to verify a large three-phase 277/480 v transformer was de-energized by checking the secondary voltage (the 277/480 v part). Nice.

I've also had a Radio Shack fail sitting in my desk drawer. No blown fuse or rhyme or reason. It just failed. And, of course, I've had cheap multimeters to fail, not including cases of operator error.

My point? Anything made by man is subject to fail. Always verify a multimeter is operating correctly before using. At home I even use a neon voltage tester, just in case.

In my tool bag I have a cheap electro-mechanical multimeter with a swing needle, that I use in the office at times for voltages under 240v. Bought it at a hardware store, and have used it to double check much more expensive digital multimeters. It's cheap, but it works.

And this gentlemen sums it up nicely. You should always test your meter against a known source voltage before touching the leads to anything else. Thanks Raissermesser
 
Anything made by man is subject to fail.

Something I tell people all the time at my workplace.
It's funny how people can't understand how something can go from working to not working in a fraction of a second.

On topic, we use Fluke tools at work. I use my own service kit instead of most of the tools I am provided because the boss doesn't spend the money to buy the good stuff.
 
On topic, we use Fluke tools at work. I use my own service kit instead of most of the tools I am provided because the boss doesn't spend the money to buy the good stuff.

We used to use cheaper brands until we had one that was so subject to failure and inaccuracy that some linemen expressed their displeasure by discarding into the nearest deep body of water. Ever since, they buy us Flukes. Nothing quite like being asked if you want a Fluke, and having one handed to you.
 
I am hoping to hear from our brother European badgers about what kind of meters they like to use. The name we hear most often in the States is Gossen-Metrawatt but I have never actually been able to handle one. Heck, other than the internet I have never seen one.

Also, for some very in depth review and tear down of various multimeters check out Dave Jones' EEVBLOG. Dave is an experienced electronics engineer from what I gather. He has several videos on things like best meter for $50. And one for $100. You get the drift. He has several in depth videos just on reviews. Many are very long in length so note that. Very knowledgeable and a hoot to listen to. Very funny guy.

Edited to add Dave's YouTube site. That is where I found his material.
 
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You get what you pay for with DMM's, so like most products, figure out what you need before paying :001_smile

When asked, I suggest Amprobe DMM's as a starting point. I have multimeters from several manufacturers, but no Amprobe, however, I go by their reputation (I have their HV probe and a current clamp though). They are solid and reasonably priced - they are not cheap, but they are not as expensive as Fluke or Gossen.

It comes down to it's intended use. I think safety and reliability are of top concern, but if all you will be doing is some mains checks around the house, or working on your car, the $500 Fluke will be overkill. But, I do not trust the cheap home center type DMM's one bit.
 
I did a look at the top rated voltmeters, and, of course, Fluke was there. But I was surprised to see a list with an inexpensive one I bought some years ago from the automotive section in Wallyworld: An Innova. I wanted another digital when a cheap one failed, and picked this up in the automotive section. Of course, this was to measure residential voltage, DC batteries, and ohms and continuity, so we're not talking precision work here.

Would really like to have a clamp-on multimeter. Those at work have me spoiled.
 
Gents, while this is thread is concerned with multimeters and their safety or rather lack of such in some models, I managed to somehow wind up on a rabbit trail of oscilloscopes. These new DSO scopes have revolutionised the industry. You can buy a Rigol 2 channel, 100Mhz for around $400 from several sources including Amazon. I am sure they are not exactly forensic quality but considering not too many years ago a new Tektronix 20Mhz two channel analogue scope would set you back around ten times that much, it is nothing short of amazing. Again, I found out some information about it over at Dave Jones' EEVblog. Great resource.

Indeed, the $100 meter segment is not what it used to be. And thank goodness for that! There were some VERY cheesy meters being put out in that price point even just a few years ago. Some of the Amprobes are good depending upon who they source them from. Check the web and YouTube for tear down videos. Amprobe is essentially just a name now. They are part of the Danaher group. As mentioned some of the Greenlees are rebadged Brymen and that is also a good thing albeit their pricing is much higher. Still, there is no absolute need to shell out over four hundred dollars to get a fairly accurate, safe to use meter. This makes shopping a lot more fun though I still lean toward Fluke.
 
Gents, if you can stand one more post on this, check out a joe smith channel on YouTube. He does a torture test of something like 18 under $50 multimeters. The results were interesting to say the least. First, the quality of this sort of meter has come way up in the last few years. And the overall winner? The Fluke 101. Don't look for this near pocket sized meter at the U.S. site. It is aimed at emerging markets in Asia. India, China, Malaysia, etc. However, you can still get the little bugger on Amazon for between 50-60 dollars U.S. I may grab one for the simple fact it is cute and very portable. No, it is not RMS nor is it mV or uV capable. But it is Category III rated to 600v and the guy couldn't kill it no matter the transient voltages he put through it. I mean torture testing beyond any normal common usage. This would be great for basic voltage measurements and continuity testing.

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As a navy electrician I approve of this post. We always use live checks before and after verifying something dead. That we can ensure whatever we are working on is actually dead before sticking bare hands in.

I love flukes. The 289 is a beast.


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As a navy electrician I approve of this post. We always use live checks before and after verifying something dead. That we can ensure whatever we are working on is actually dead before sticking bare hands in.

I love flukes. The 289 is a beast.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jeremy, those are good, sound practices. We follow essentially the same routine. Unless there is a VERY important reason to do so, no live work. And only then with calorie rated gear on. And I would dearly love to get my hands on a 289! While this should not be a big decision I am making it so. I am torn between a good, mid range multi use meter and a top shelf Fluke. Either a 87 V, 289, or maybe something similar in the line. I don't really need the extreme duty cycle of either but sometimes it just comes down to wanting it. We'll see. There is always the payment plan!
 
As a navy electrician I approve of this post. We always use live checks before and after verifying something dead. That we can ensure whatever we are working on is actually dead before sticking bare hands in.

I love flukes. The 289 is a beast.


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Is it true that the military uses a different frequency for your power? I seem to remember a story from electrical school where the guy used his meter or tic tracer on a high-frequency circuit in a military base. The story goes that meter didn't read the voltage and the guy got belted pretty good. Whether or not it's true, I suppose it still serves as a reminder to always know what you're checking when you check it.
 
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