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Flight of the Ferns

Hey everyone, I kind of fell in love with "fern scents" and I love the idea of an imaginary scent for a real plant. I got Fern Concerto from Wholly Kaw, but I didn't know what other fougere scents were good or what they were like, so I ordered a bunch of samples from a retailer to try out the scents and post my findings. First, I need to admit my own cognitive bias on the topic of Fougeres. My mental image of a fern grove is one in a very damp, mossy, temperate rain forest. Something that may have a few notes of the swamps of Florida where I went to college, but more reminiscent of the deep forests of Washington in the training areas of Fort Lewis near Seattle. Loam, a little petrichor, brush, dirt, moss are all notes I would associate with a fern grove and therefore what harkens to my mind for a fougere scent. So when I take in the scents, my bias will be toward the ones with the most green, dark, damp, and earthy notes with some woodsy tones. That being said, my favorite of these fougeres was not the greenest and woodsiest scents.

Green and Herbal:

Declaration Grooming TSM Fougere: this was certainly the greenest scent amongst these fougeres. It's all at once warm, damp, mossy, verdant, herbal, and smashes fresh vetiver right into my nose and makes me like it! Earthy, grassy, this is a scent of the forest in a concentrated form and it to me is the archetypal fern scent. It smells to me like the perfumer here was really trying to create the scent of a fern grove deep in the shady heart of a forest surrounded by mossy trees, verdant foliage, and some fragrant herbs. Lathering this scent changes its spirit little to me, toning down the sage slightly while keeping the mossy, grassy, loamy aromas.

Sterling Varen: Just a step behind TSM Fougere, Varen brings its own green force, but with hints of floral (maybe jasmine or even some lavender?) along with some... cucumber? Yep, I smell it! It sounds a little crazy, but all of this does mingle very nicely with base notes that are mossy and earthy to make a slightly more playful and bright fougere than TSM Fougere. Lathering brings out further the heavy end of the green foliage and earth notes in this crowd. Again, this to me evokes an image of a shady and damp temperate forest in summer with a grove of ferns nestled into damp loam surrounded by moss, trees, and vegetation.

B&M Reserve Fern: This is my runner-up favorite of the whole bunch. Clean and fresh floral essence over a damp green base. It tells you immediately that this is a forest-y fougere, but doesn't quite grind your nose into the mossy loam of the two greener scents. The prominent notes of vetiver and moss are balanced by lavender. As it lathers, the oak moss becomes even more pronounced and gave me a greater sense of foliage and loam. Well-balanced, but unapologetically fern-inspired, this is a great fougere scent and definitely one that I want to come back to repeatedly!
 
The next three fougeres in the group are starting to become more floral than the first three very green, herbal, and mossy scents.

LA Shave Soap Co Topanga Fougere: I really like this fougere. It is all at once deep, definitely green based, bright, floral, and herbal. It smells to me like the perfumer was going for a grove of fragrant flowers and ferns deep in the forest under the shade of multiple mossy trees with just a bit of warm sunlight shining through. Too poetic? Okay, it balances deep earthy notes of vetiver and herbal sage with the brighter hues of flowers such as lavender without it getting "powdery" or artificial smelling. Lathering the soap brings the oak moss forward to expand the green base of this fougere. Not my favorite, but still a very nice fougere IMO.

LASSC Blackfern: This is a very interesting take on ferns. Don't let the name fool you, this is more floral than Topanga, and has a lot more imaginative elements built in. To my nose, this is a fern growing amongst mint and anise herbs with some lavenders there too, all in the shade of a mossy tree at the edge of a forest. It still retains a green base with vetiver notes but they are surrounded by mint, anise (a trick for my nose as there is no anise oil in the mix!), and lavender. This is certainly a creative combo, but far less of a raw fougere than scents above. Lather from this soap brings out the vetiver more and suppresses the orange, mint, and geranium slightly, enhancing the fern portion of this scent. This is really the dividing line to me as the soaps that follow are very different from the green-hearted forresty fougeres.

Wholly Kaw Fern Concerto: And this is still my favorite of these fougeres! I will admit that I fail my own purity test here! But as they say, the nose wants what the nose wants... To me, this is a bouquet of flowers with geraniums, lavender, and a couple fern branches all in a vase, in a powdery-smelling boutique or shop... Next to a bowl of oranges. Yep, this fougere has left the forrest! The bergamot up front gives it that powdery or even cologne-esqe feel while the numerous florals notes make it actually difficult to find the base of oak moss responsible for any fern-ness I would identify at first sniff. It's almost like it is a fern+floral+barbershop effort until lathered when the oak moss and sandalwood in the base come barreling forward. And I do love it. The total effect is clean, a little synthetic (as some have rightly called out Wholly Kaw on), citrusy, bright, uplifting, and with just a touch of earthy green goodness at the end of all the cheer. It is a fun ride if one commits themselves to interrogating the scent, but a great fresh and bright scent balances the mossy and woodsy aromas deep in the concerto. The synthetic menthol takes the shave to that much higher of a level too!
 
Starting with the WK FC and continuing below, these scents are becoming far more subtle in their homage to green plants and bear far more commonality with more cologne-type scents with top notes that are sweeter, more floral, and more fruity.

Wholly Kaw Fougere Bouquet: Honestly, I’m not really sure whether this scent is more or less “damp-earth-fern” than WK MR above, so I’ll just go with this ordering. With that said, I definitely like FB better than MR, and I’m not even sure why! First scent of this fragrant soap is the sweet and floral lavender mixed with bergamot and sandalwood for a slightly powdery smell seemingly surrounded by mossy undertones belying its true identity. This is obviously a lighter/brighter/sweeter take on the concept, like a fern plant, in a pot, inside a flower shop at first smell. Putting wet brush to this soap brings out far more of the mossy base, but the lavender, bergamot, and a hint of spice continue to balance out the grassy and mossy base, keeping this fougere far more light, interesting, and bright than many others here.

Australian Private Reserve Fougere Trois: Alright, this one straight baffled my nose. There is a deeper fern base that is not immediately apparent to my sniffer, but is instead masked by the accords of rose, geranium, lavender, and bergamot. True to the other fougeres here, the oak moss and foliage accords come out more after lathering, but in keeping with these more floral-oriented fougeres it is counterbalanced by these floral notes. In fact, this one to me had the greatest preponderance of floral notes after lather of any of these.

Wholly Kaw Monaco Royale: I’m not sure where, but I distinctly remember reading that this scent was considered by the artisan as a “fern” scent, but I’m having trouble finding that description now. Either way, I’ll throw this into the mix. With the traditional oak moss, musk, and assorted fougere components sprinkled throughout the scent notes, this scent lends itself to the category. My nose detects the lavender and neroli immediately over a much more subdued bed of oak moss, sandalwood, and guaiac wood. After lathering, this soap brings out the base of mossy woods, but not quite as grassy or verdant as other fougeres on this list making this soap still a dark horse amongst the group.


So this was my flight of fern scents for consideration! Honestly, I liked every soap on this list, albeit with some more than others. Annoyingly, I didn’t get a chance to take a swing at Fougere Gothique or Angelique coming from Barrister and Mann as they were not at Maggards yet. Additionally, literally one week after I ordered these, Maggards got Martin de Candre’s Fougere soap samples as well and I missed them for this! Sigh… Still, if any have tried any of those or any other fougeres, lets add them to the list, discuss these fun imaginative takes on the fake scent of a real plant, and hopefully this can help anyone who wants to try out this genre but is not sure where to start!
 
Outstanding overview of one of my favorite styles! And I'm glad that you tried the Declaration Grooming TSM Fougere. I live in the Pacific Northwest, just south of Fort Lewis, and I totally agree that Chatillon Lux did an incredible job with creating something that truly evokes walking through a temperate rainforest. I really love TSM Fougere! That being said, Barrister & Mann's Fern is an almost perfect take on the original, Fougere Royale, so I might have to put this one in my top position. But it's close... Big thumbs up to LASSC Topanga, as well.
Thanks again for the reviews.
 
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Nice helpful descriptions. I gotta get some Varen soon.

That being said, Barrister & Mann's Fern is an almost perfect take on the original, Fougere Royale, so I might have to put this one in my top position.

Will from B&M has said that Fern is based on the Diparco ("H Pour Hommes") version of Fougere Royale from the 1960s, not the original
 
Nice helpful descriptions. I gotta get some Varen soon.



Will from B&M has said that Fern is based on the Diparco ("H Pour Hommes") version of Fougere Royale from the 1960s, not the original
You mean this version? Yeah, I'm familiar.
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Since none of us were around when the Houbigant Fougere Royale was first released, I'll have to take the historians' word that the original version was significantly different than the 60s version. The point remains that Barrister & Mann Fern is based on Houbigant Fougere Royale. And Houbigant Fougere Royale was the first Fougere.
 
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Hannah's Dad

I Can See Better Than Bigfoot.
What a stellar review. I only have the B&M version; but it’s incredible, IMO. And the matching aftershave is, too.
 
What a nice series of reviews! Out of all of these, the only soap I possess and have tried is the Declaration Grooming TSM Fougere. It is as you describe, green and, when I use it, I enjoy the scent greatly. The perfumer is Shawn Maher from Chatillon Lux; he demonstrates a real mastery of the craft.
 
Nice helpful descriptions. I gotta get some Varen soon.



Will from B&M has said that Fern is based on the Diparco ("H Pour Hommes") version of Fougere Royale from the 1960s, not the original

Great catch! This is true, based on the accords used to build the scents, Australian Private Reserve probably did the most intentional nod to Houbigant's Fougere Royale, not B&M Reserve Fern. I'm already loving the discussions though, and Varen is a great scent and soap, I don't think you will be disappointed.
 
Thanks to you all for the kind words and discussion! All of these may technically be in the same category, but can all be wildly different. The LASSC scents were very creative takes on the original fougere intent and I'm sorely tempted to keep coming back to those along with the WK, B&M, Sterling... Oh man, I'm gonna be buying a lot of soap!
 
Fougere has always been my favorite scent. Living in western Washington my whole life. My favorite scent is going out in the forest and breathing in that natural forest air.

The Fern fougere soap I have is Saponifico Veresino Felce. I guess it's considered a cologne fougere. As it's based on Houbagant Fougere Royal.

Will have to add some more of these to my rotation. So I'm glad you posted the scent reviews.

Just out of curiosity. Which of these would you say smells closest to a western Washington forest?

I'm gonna guess it's DG TSM fougere
 
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