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Officina Artigiana Milano - Review

Bought these from Maggard Razors.

Soap Maker: Officina Artigiana Milano
Country of Origin: Italy
Available scents:
  • Stay Traditional
  • Maremoto
  • Oli del benessere
  • Najran

Presentation

Beautiful and large thick/heavy glass jars with aluminum lid in thick paper box. Every cream/soap maker charging $25 and above should take notice (I am looking at you Santa Maria Novella). Each soap comes with a small pamphlet elaborating on the five oils used in the soaps. Only 2 of the 4 boxes had one in this case.

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The maker uses a special nozzle to create an abstract flower design with 5 petals (one for each of the oil used) when they're filled but since it's a combination of manual and mechanical labor, not all jar have it. In this case, 3 out of the 4 jars did. Picture taken day of delivery:

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Texture/Color/Ingredients

Semi-dense crops. Color varies white, off-white/light cream, off-white/cream to yellow.

The list of ingredients is short, with plus or minus couple differences, and all include the soap maker's 5 oils (Argan, Almond, Joboba, Castor and Grape seed).

Scents

Stay Traditional


The "olfactory pyramid" description on the box lists:

Top notes: Pompelmo (Grapefruit), Limone (Lemon), Fragola (Strawberry), Aldeidica (Aldehyde), Pesca (Peach), Verde (Green)
Core notes: Ozonica (Ozonic), Salina (Saline)
Base notes: Muschio (Moss)

My observation: There is nothing "traditional" about it, at least not in a barbershop type of way. This could lead to confusion if one is not familiar with the soap and/or has not done some research before buying. If the information I read in a Youtube comment is accurate, the name "Stay Traditional" is the name of an Italian wet shaving Youtube channel and the soap maker made a collaboration with them. The box also says “A special thank you to mr. Andrea Faggiani of Stay Traditional" on one side. I checked Youtube and such channel does exist.

The scent is a grapefruit citrus bomb. If you love grapefruit scent, this is for you. Unfortunately, it's not my cup of tea (solely based on smell) and it was returned to the seller untouched. Having not tried it, there could be, likely is, more to the scent than just grapefruit - this soap maker is known to produce complex scents. People who used and reviewed this soap online do mention, at least, lemon and strawberry in the scent when it's lathered. I see this being a Summer favorite for those who love citrus in their soaps. If you love citrus, this is for you.


Maremoto

There is no "olfactory pyramid" description on the box but the seller's listing states:

Top notes: Aquatic
Middle notes: Ozonated
Base notes: Green

My observation: Cologne like. If my memory serves me right (going back almost two decades), that's what Armani Acqua di Gio smells like. A poster on Reddit said it's "inspired by Megamare by Orto Parisi". Unfortunately, it's not a scent for me and it too went back to seller untouched. Here again, since I did not lather it, I could not conclude if there is more to it. I see it being a year-round soap. If you love ozonic scents, you'll like this.


Oli Del Benessere

The "olfactory pyramid" description on the box lists:

Top notes: Betulla (Birch), Pepe Nero (Black Pepper), Orchidea (Orchid)
Core notes: Avana (Havana), Whisky (Whisky), Zafferano (Saffron)
Base notes: Legni Preziosi (Precious Wood), Ambra (Amber),

My observation: This one is spectacular (based on smell and lathering/shaving). Mysterious. Refined/elegant. "Dark" (in a good way). Multi-layered and ultra complex. It reminds of an old monastery or cathedral where the smell of the stone and wood structure interlays with the natural essences of surrounding gardens. A scent where all three top, core and base notes can be detected. Light enough to be used year-round and not just in Fall/Winter. An absolute keeper. I would make this an occasional or seasonal soap just to value its uniqueness furthermore.

Narjan

There is no "olfactory pyramid" description on the box but the seller's listing states:

Top notes: Cistus
Heart notes: Tobacco, Violet
Base notes: Moss, Labdanum, Grey Amber, Cedar Wood, Sandalwood

My observation: Another fantastic, complex scent. Near-Eastern. An Oud-like scent came to mind at first. Elegant. Woody. Floral. Smoky. Masculine. Light yet complex. Another keeper


Performance

Lather, protection, glide, residual sleekness and post-shave rival and/or outperform the likes of Martin de Candre, Mike's Natural and other top tiers. I have not tried Saponificio Varesino but I read a member here stating that Officina Artigiana is "SV quality class soap". The 5 oils soften the skin for hours as if you applied an actual face cream. Scent lingers lightly for hours.

Additional

To the best of my knowledge, each scent has a matching aftershave. An EDP also exist for the Marmoto.

Oddly, the soap maker does not appear to have a website.

Conclusion

An overlooked soap maker that delivers exceptional soaps.
 
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It has a very high fragrance oil and alcohol content. I decanted some as EdT and use the rest as AS. I have quite robust skin so no issues besides a refreshing sting, might be too much if you have sensitivities.

Good to know, thank you. I'll adjust accordingly.

Have you tried the Narjan AS by any chance? It's another I am considering. Love the soap's scent.
 
I currently use the "Stay traditional" and I am not impressed by the complex scent. I got used to it by now and I would say it smels like citrusy laundry detergent, but not the cheap one though. I keep using it because it performs really well for shaving with a SR. It's also probably the only soap I tried which leaves my face with a hydrated/greasy feeling, so I don't use any after shave balm afterwards.

Also, if my memory serves me right, in the pamphlet it was advised not to store it for more than one year.
 
I currently use the "Stay traditional" and I am not impressed by the complex scent. I got used to it by now and I would say it smels like citrusy laundry detergent, but not the cheap one though. I keep using it because it performs really well for shaving with a SR. It's also probably the only soap I tried which leaves my face with a hydrated/greasy feeling, so I don't use any after shave balm afterwards.

Also, if my memory serves me right, in the pamphlet it was advised not to store it for more than one year.

I didn't like the Stay Traditional to be honest - the grapefruit scent was overpowering and smelled too candy-like (something I should have added in the review). I have no doubt it's as excellent as the other scents in terms of performance otherwise.

I can only imagine what a barbershop scent with the soap maker's magic twist would have been like. Can't agree more on post-shave - there is nothing like it.

I missed the note on shelf-life. Thanks for bringing it up.
 
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Wanted to say thank you for a great review. I am personally interested in more of the European artisans and this was a great overview!

Welcome, glad you liked it. Same here, I am more interested in artisan/niche soap makers. Fitjar Islands, Kaliflower and Laugar (all coincidentally from Scandinavia) are some others I am considering next.

Great review. Thanks for taking the time to put this up. I had not heard of this brand. The connection to a YouTube personality is odd or caught my attention
I wonder if @Marco will weigh in?

Thank you and welcome. I haven't looked into that connection but it could be something personal between the two parties. I thought the Stay Traditional scent would be more of a barbershop until I read it wasn't.

Great soaps for sure with very interesting scents, too. Saponificio Varesino quality? No, not that high for me.

Thanks for your input. Disclaimer once again: I haven't tried SV yet and went with what I read. That said and in your opinion, what makes SV better?
 
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Marco

B&B's Man in Italy
Thanks for your input. Disclaimer once again: I haven't tried SV yet and went with what I read. That said and in your opinion, what makes SV better?
Sir, SV is unique. Nothing I've encountered to date among Italian soaps is comparable: better lather, better slickness and much better post shave. Shave-wise it's Italy's #1 for me (and I have tested almost all of them).
 
Sir, SV is unique. Nothing I've encountered to date among Italian soaps is comparable: better lather, better slickness and much better post shave. Shave-wise it's Italy's #1 for me (and I have tested almost all of them).

Thanks for your input Marco, I look forward to trying SV at last - only kept postponing due to scent. I read some are alike or clones of known colognes (Aqua di Gio, Aventus, etc). I prefer either unique scents or scents derived from natural sources. But I won't know until I try.

And if it beats OAM's Oli del benessere all-day post-shave feel (something I never experienced before with any soap), then it's even better.
 
Thanks for your input Marco, I look forward to trying SV at last - only kept postponing due to scent. I read some are alike or clones of known colognes (Aqua di Gio, Aventus, etc). I prefer either unique scents or scents derived from natural sources. But I won't know until I try.

And if it beats OAM's Oli del benessere all-day post-shave feel (something I never experienced before with any soap), then it's even better.
Take this with a grain of salt, as I only own SV 70th and Dolomiti. Based on your preference description, Dolomiti might be a good choice to get your feet wet with SV. It’s a complex scent, but not cologne like. For me I get light tobacco notes. I love it
 
Take this with a grain of salt, as I only own SV 70th and Dolomiti. Based on your preference description, Dolomiti might be a good choice to get your feet wet with SV. It’s a complex scent, but not cologne like. For me I get light tobacco notes. I love it

Thank you. Coincidentally, Dolomiti is the one I was/am eyeing. Tundra Artica, Stella Alpina and Desert Vetiver are some others. I was a click away from ordering several but refrained myself after reading similarities to colognes with many of them.
 
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