Is it possible? I have one that nicks the scales when closing if I'm not careful and I don't correct it. Is there any way to fix this?
Fixing a razor that doesn't close on center?
- Thread starter blackhhawk
- Start date
Depends on the cause of problem.
Creative use of washers at the pivot will usually get it re-aligned.
2 on the rear, one on the front, or whatever it takes to get the blade centered.
You can pull the blade and the wedge and then possibly un-warp the scales if that's the source of the problem.
Sometimes a new wedge with a fatter rear dimension can help too.
Really depends on the what is causing the issue though.
Creative use of washers at the pivot will usually get it re-aligned.
2 on the rear, one on the front, or whatever it takes to get the blade centered.
You can pull the blade and the wedge and then possibly un-warp the scales if that's the source of the problem.
Sometimes a new wedge with a fatter rear dimension can help too.
Really depends on the what is causing the issue though.
What are the scales made of?
You can steam plastic and horn and coax them in place
You can steam plastic and horn and coax them in place
I've noticed many vintage blades aren't actually square to their tang, and the straightest scales won't center the blade. Make sure your problem isn't the blade itself.
I'll see if I can explain this with the help of some pics I just took to guide you. Note this is if it's just sitting a bit off from the pinning and not because of warped scales or anything else.
So let say your razor is sitting to the left a bit like this ( I'm pushing it to look uncentered for pics only)
Be careful and open the razor lay it on it's right side against an anvil or as I use a hammer. Press down just behind the pin while lifting up on the underside of the scales with your other fingers. Forming bit of a smile with the scales.
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While doing this use a small (mine is a 2 oz) ball peen hammer ( if you do not have one you can use a heavy spoon ) and give it a good few taps. Not too hard but not as soft as to not do anything. Check it and repeat until centered.
[URL="http://s612.photobucket.com/user/themick85/media/null-15.jpg.html"]
If it's sitting the other way just reverse the process.
So let say your razor is sitting to the left a bit like this ( I'm pushing it to look uncentered for pics only)
Be careful and open the razor lay it on it's right side against an anvil or as I use a hammer. Press down just behind the pin while lifting up on the underside of the scales with your other fingers. Forming bit of a smile with the scales.
[/URLWhile doing this use a small (mine is a 2 oz) ball peen hammer ( if you do not have one you can use a heavy spoon ) and give it a good few taps. Not too hard but not as soft as to not do anything. Check it and repeat until centered.
[URL="http://s612.photobucket.com/user/themick85/media/null-15.jpg.html"]
If it's sitting the other way just reverse the process.
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- Thread starter
- #6
Mick what are you tapping on the pin or the tang or the scales?
Might try some of the other ideas but the cause, I think, is the blade being warped. It looks almost twisted.
Might try some of the other ideas but the cause, I think, is the blade being warped. It looks almost twisted.
Tapping on the pin and the only thing that should be touching the anvil, hammer or whatever metal you use should be the other side of the pin. Do not rest it on the scales.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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As Micks says, you are in essense trying to move the left and right scales in opposite parallel directions from each other, there by moving the pivot pin, thus centering the blade in the scales.
What Mick described is a good method but only really works if there is some play on the holes of the scales.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Another way that works if the tang is warped, like with the Gold Dollar #66 for instance, (I think the stamping of the shank puts a bend in it) is to modify the scales slightly. Unpin the razor. To do this, I wrap the scales with tape except for a little hole for the pin head and washer to stick out. Then stand a mill bastard file up on end. Place the pin head against the file and eyeball clearance between scale and file. Work the razor up and down the file. Move the razor, not the file, and keep your eye on it. When you have filed the head of the pin off down flush to the washer, stick a screwdriver between tang and scale and twist carefully. The scale on the filed end of the pin should pop off. With the flat of the screwdriver, push the pin down a little more so you can grab it with pliers on the other side, and pull/twist it out. If you can save the washers you are only needing some 1/16" brass or nickel/silver rod for a pin. Or a bolt from www.microfasteners.com.
On the scale that catches the toe of the blade, file a little bit on the inside of the scale at the pointy end, starting at the pin hole. Do not file any at all forward of the pin hole.
With severe cases you can add a dab of epoxy about 1/2" or 3/4" from the pivot hole and near the top edge of the scale to assist in pushing the blade toward the center. Smooth it down with a piece of Ziploc bag or something that the epoxy can't stick to.
On the other scale, File or sand a little, starting at the pin hole and working toward the big end for a distance of about 1-1/2". You just want to thin out the scale a little, making a bit of hollow so the shank can have room to swing that way just a smidgeon.
Reassemble the razor but don't peen the pins yet. Just pinch the ends of the scales against the tang of the razor to simulate the compression of the pin. Check to see if it centers properly. Keep filing if it doesn't. When you are satisfied, pin it up.
This method works really well with wood or other opaque scales. Not so good on translucent ones but for cosmetic reasons, not functional ones. If pretty isn't important, though, then by all means go for it.
You can of course also make custom scales, and drill the pivot hole at whatever angle is needed to square up the blade.
On the scale that catches the toe of the blade, file a little bit on the inside of the scale at the pointy end, starting at the pin hole. Do not file any at all forward of the pin hole.
With severe cases you can add a dab of epoxy about 1/2" or 3/4" from the pivot hole and near the top edge of the scale to assist in pushing the blade toward the center. Smooth it down with a piece of Ziploc bag or something that the epoxy can't stick to.
On the other scale, File or sand a little, starting at the pin hole and working toward the big end for a distance of about 1-1/2". You just want to thin out the scale a little, making a bit of hollow so the shank can have room to swing that way just a smidgeon.
Reassemble the razor but don't peen the pins yet. Just pinch the ends of the scales against the tang of the razor to simulate the compression of the pin. Check to see if it centers properly. Keep filing if it doesn't. When you are satisfied, pin it up.
This method works really well with wood or other opaque scales. Not so good on translucent ones but for cosmetic reasons, not functional ones. If pretty isn't important, though, then by all means go for it.
You can of course also make custom scales, and drill the pivot hole at whatever angle is needed to square up the blade.
- Thread starter
- #11
Did what the mick said and tapped on the pin while prying in the direction to center it and it worked. Thanks for the help guys
Glad it worked for you!
Hi everybody. I have a similar issue with a Sheffield blade with ivory scales. Tried The Mick's suggestion, but the problem is not in the pin, but the blade actually seems to be in an angle.
I have previously successfully fixed similar problems in horn scales by bending the scales with heat, but am hesitant to do so with ivory, as this is my first blade with ivory scales, and this razor is just too nice to experiment.
Here's a couple of pictures to show the bent blade, and few others just to show off this "like new" 20 antique shop find:
In both pictures above the pinheads are in contact with the table, and as you can see the blade is rather crooked.
From my experience i'd say that this razor has never been honed, and i'd hate to have to do anything drastic to it (like unpinnig it), so is there any way to get the blade to center correctly with these ivory scales, or is my only option to unpin it, put shims in place and re-pin?
I have unpinned razors before for fixing, but with this razor being so perfect, i'd like to keep it original. The problem is that the blade takes contact to the scales pretty much for the whole length of the edge, and i'm worried that it will chip either the blade or the scales if (or rather when) i close them and forget to force the blade to the center with my hands.
I have previously successfully fixed similar problems in horn scales by bending the scales with heat, but am hesitant to do so with ivory, as this is my first blade with ivory scales, and this razor is just too nice to experiment.
Here's a couple of pictures to show the bent blade, and few others just to show off this "like new" 20 antique shop find:
In both pictures above the pinheads are in contact with the table, and as you can see the blade is rather crooked.
From my experience i'd say that this razor has never been honed, and i'd hate to have to do anything drastic to it (like unpinnig it), so is there any way to get the blade to center correctly with these ivory scales, or is my only option to unpin it, put shims in place and re-pin?
I have unpinned razors before for fixing, but with this razor being so perfect, i'd like to keep it original. The problem is that the blade takes contact to the scales pretty much for the whole length of the edge, and i'm worried that it will chip either the blade or the scales if (or rather when) i close them and forget to force the blade to the center with my hands.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I think you should unpin it and fix it right. Just my .02. And file or sand as needed, to steer the blade between the scales where it belongs. Just be careful peening the new pin that you dont crack the scales.
I like a heavy spoon instead of a hammer.
I like a heavy spoon instead of a hammer.
I literally sweat every time I repin Ivory...
I'd say that you are right, and i ordered some NiAg rod earlier today, since i have only brass, and i'll try to keep it as original looking as possible. Just have to take my time and make sure not to make any mistakes with the whole process.
I have a 4oz chasing hammer that has worked wonders for pinning/tightening, like this;
Yup. I have re-pinned and tightened quite few razors, but never ivory, so i'm not that keen on "going to town" with this one, but the blade is just too off-centered to leave be.
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Depending on how farr off it is you might be able to slightly enlarge the wedge and pivot holes to allow some movement of the scales when re pinning, with this method you cna get about 1/4 inch movement of the blade at the toe, usually enough to fix the issue.
Pinning ivory is not that hard, un pinning is where the cracks happen. You absolutely, positively need to drill out the pin, flush cutters create pressure on the opposite side pin when cutting and can crack the scales, also tapping it out is a BIG no-no
Pinning ivory is not that hard, un pinning is where the cracks happen. You absolutely, positively need to drill out the pin, flush cutters create pressure on the opposite side pin when cutting and can crack the scales, also tapping it out is a BIG no-no
Thanks for the tip.
I'll have to confirm what exactly is the problem when i take them apart, and work from there. To my eye it seems like the blade is crooked, but another more experienced restorer said that it's probably a warped pin causing it (and i hope he's right, since that would be simpler to fix IMO).
Well fudge.
I have no possibility to drill the pin out (=no bench drill), and was going to do it like before; tape the scales and carefully take the pinhead off with a file and gently push the pin out.
Thanks for the tip.
I'll have to confirm what exactly is the problem when i take them apart, and work from there. To my eye it seems like the blade is crooked, but another more experienced restorer said that it's probably a warped pin causing it (and i hope he's right, since that would be simpler to fix IMO).
Looks like the blade is off center, might be the pin but I doubt it
Well fudge.
I have no possibility to drill the pin out (=no bench drill), and was going to do it like before; tape the scales and carefully take the pinhead off with a file and gently push the pin out.
You can try that just dont tap it out, if it comes out easily then fine
I actually drill most of my pins with a hand drill. Those pins are never straight, and it's harder for me to "steer" a drill press...
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