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Quest for a competent straight shave.

The Snow White is an 8k but assuming you're talking about the 12k super stone (which is also white), it's a decent razor finisher as far as synths go.

Glad to hear today went better.
It's the 12k, so must be super. I tried in on the Golden Monkey at one point, but not on the Bohemia. Whatever I did didn't work that well. I should be good on honing for a bit with the two fresh GSG Dovos.
 
Glad your shave went better.

It's probably not a fluke, but you may regress a bit at times. No worries though, I'm sure you'll steadily get better now.

The key for me was long strokes down my cheeks and and neck. No fear, just let it ride and my shaves were much better. Of course going around the problem areas of chin and stash needed more attention, but in general I stopped being overly cautious and things got much better.
 
If you are struggling with an edge and getting weepers, it is usually an edge issue, very common with new straight shavers caused by stropping.

Stropping can take some time to master, and a single errant stroke can roll an edge.

Look straight down on the edge with magnification and a strong light behind you. If you see any shiny reflections, that is where the bevels are not meeting, a rolled edge or microchips, and you need to go back to the stones.

An 8 or 12k edge is not excessive, it is where many of us jump to a final finisher, higher grit synthetic, high grit natural, film or paste in the 30k range.

It is very possible that a vintage strop is contaminated with years of dust and grit. Green Stainless Chrome polishing compound is way too aggressive for a straight razor edge. Use pure Chromium Oxide, .50um CBN or Diamond.

1 ALMOST SET.jpg


Below is a look straight down on an edge, where the bevels are not meeting fully. This razor may shave, it will not be comfortable.
2  FULLY SET.jpg



The second photo the bevels are meeting fully note, no shiny reflections.
 
Welcome! Sounds like you are pointed in the right direction.

I remember having plenty of not-so-great shaves on the journey to consistent shaves. Dusting myself off, getting back up on the horse and trying to focus on basics helped me:

Making sure you have a good edge, which it sounds like you do
Nice wet lather
Smooth motion with little to no pressure
Playing with the angle till you find the sweet spot

I struggled with irritation. Pretty sure I was just using too much pressure. Everyone is different. You need to find what works for you.
 
I would echo what many of the pros have stated in that your angle sounds as if it’s too high. The butter toast sound that Wid called out is what you’re looking for. You’ll know it when you nail it. Also, I’d recommend, short consistent strokes on taught skin. My strokes are often only an inch or so at a time to help mow whiskers. This approach certainly isn’t for everyone but give it a try and see if it help your. You’ll feel when the blade angle is right. A small bit of downward pressure is okay but don’t force it and focus on your blade angle.

All this aside, your edge has to be in good shape in order for everything else to really even matter. You may have rolled your edge while stropping. I’d send a blade or two off to one of the forums pro honers and have them put a couple different edges on a few of your straights for you. Ask them to strop them as well and then when you get your straights back, don’t do a thing except shave with them. See if this improves your experience. Either way, you’ll know with these first shaves that your edge is on point.

Stick with it and don’t get discouraged! Your shaves will improve. It is a journey no question.
 
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I was advised that at about the 100 shave mark things should be consistently good, but there is always something to learn. It doesn't take that long, but to really know what you are doing, it does.

Too much pressure will cause irritation, which is hard to do with a straight razor unless the angle is wrong. Use very short strokes measured in mm and not cm.

Don't worry over much or be fearful (though a bit is healthy and safe). Instead, just enjoy the journey.
 
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This one left my skin in worse shape than I would like.

I suspect the edge at 87.6g adjusted cutting force is the problem. This is after stopping. It is still sharper than Tigers and Flying Eagle Carbons, but 98% of DE edges are sharper than this.
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Maybe I will put this one up and try the shave ready Dovo Bismarck on the next shave.
 
Look straight down on the edge with magnification and a strong light behind you. If you see any shiny reflections, that is where the bevels are not meeting, a rolled edge or microchips, and you need to go back to the stones.

How far back? 4k?...8k?...12k?

Serious inquiry.

I'm also very new at this and I'm guessing that the edge on the razor you pictured still maintains a good bevel, and only requires touch up on a fine-grit stone...correct?
 
The edge on post 23, could easily be cleaned up on an 8-12k stone, no slurry.

If I see an edge like that, I will lightly Joint the edge on the stone face and reset the edge on a 8-12k. Jointing, lightly dragging the razor across the stone face, use 1 inch from the top of the stone, (you will never hone the edge on the 1 inch of the top) to cut/grid off the very tip of the edge and make the edge straight.

Once the bevels are flat and in the proper bevel angle, they can be brought back to meeting fully in 3-10 laps.

Once you have jointed the edge, look straight down on the edge again, after jointing the whole edge will reflect light, if you see any dark spots, those now are micro-chips or where bevels are not meeting.

You can joint again or use the corner of the stone, again use the top 1 inch of the stone, (the corner is more aggressive of a jointing stroke as the pressure is concentrated at a single point on the edge at a time, when jointing on the stone face the whole edge is on the stone face, so if you use the same lite pressure, the corner will be more aggressive).

I typically do not do more that 2 strokes at a time, and find it better to joint, bring the bevels back to meeting in 3-10 laps and if needed joint again until the bevels are micro-chip free, no shiny reflections. This I feel makes a stronger edge, too many jointing strokes can fatigue the steel. Remember the actual edge is so thin we can only see it with SEM magnification.

I will typically take a razor to shave ready. Strop the razor, lightly joint on the stone face a single stroke, strop on flax linen fire hose, and reset the edge in about 3 laps on the same finish stone.

This just ensures a pristine edge of strong steel.
 
The edge on post 23, could easily be cleaned up on an 8-12k stone, no slurry.

If I see an edge like that, I will lightly Joint the edge on the stone face and reset the edge on a 8-12k. Jointing, lightly dragging the razor across the stone face, use 1 inch from the top of the stone, (you will never hone the edge on the 1 inch of the top) to cut/grid off the very tip of the edge and make the edge straight.

Once the bevels are flat and in the proper bevel angle, they can be brought back to meeting fully in 3-10 laps.

Once you have jointed the edge, look straight down on the edge again, after jointing the whole edge will reflect light, if you see any dark spots, those now are micro-chips or where bevels are not meeting.

You can joint again or use the corner of the stone, again use the top 1 inch of the stone, (the corner is more aggressive of a jointing stroke as the pressure is concentrated at a single point on the edge at a time, when jointing on the stone face the whole edge is on the stone face, so if you use the same lite pressure, the corner will be more aggressive).

I typically do not do more that 2 strokes at a time, and find it better to joint, bring the bevels back to meeting in 3-10 laps and if needed joint again until the bevels are micro-chip free, no shiny reflections. This I feel makes a stronger edge, too many jointing strokes can fatigue the steel. Remember the actual edge is so thin we can only see it with SEM magnification.

I will typically take a razor to shave ready. Strop the razor, lightly joint on the stone face a single stroke, strop on flax linen fire hose, and reset the edge in about 3 laps on the same finish stone.

This just ensures a pristine edge of strong steel.

Thank you 🙂👍
 
I broke this new GSG Renewed Dovo Bismarck today and got another decent shave. I am actually more worried about this edge than the other one. It was a little sharper (measured force) and smoother (microscope), but it had some dull spots and some jagged spots. I stropped it 50 times on linen and 100 times on leather, but this didn't change the cutting force or the microscopic appearance much.

In any case, it shaved better than my last shave with the Flowing, but not as well as my best shave with the Flowing.

I unwrapped it this morning. It is a beautiful thing. My photos don't capture how nice the gold on the bevel and scale is.

1000011491.jpg


Maybe it is time to touch up the Flowing.
 
So these GSG Dovos were taped.

Do I need to put tape to touch up the Flowing?

I have a black ark that is very slick and crystalline, a Chinese green stone, the white Naniwa pro 12k, some flitz and fresh denim, and some .25 micron diamond.

What should I use to joint and hone this Flowing that was honed just a few shaves back by Griffith?
 
So these GSG Dovos were taped.

Do I need to put tape to touch up the Flowing?

I have a black ark that is very slick and crystalline, a Chinese green stone, the white Naniwa pro 12k, some flitz and fresh denim, and some .25 micron diamond.

What should I use to joint and hone this Flowing that was honed just a few shaves back by Griffith?
I’d tape them both with electric tape. 3M Super 77 seems to be the gold standard but I use whatever generic black electric tape they had at the hardware store and it works fine.

I wouldn’t bother with jointing them for now since they’ve only got a few shaves on them and I think you’re pretty new at honing. Sometimes I get myself into trouble with jointing when I don’t bring the edges back to a proper apex.

Just tape ‘em up and hone with x-strokes on the Naniwa 12k, it’s as foolproof a stone as you’re going to get. They probably don’t need much work to bring the edge back. You can use a sharpie to make sure you’re hitting the whole edge from heel to toe, you may need to add some roll to your stroke depending on what the sharpie tells you.

I messed up a razor or two when I was starting out, I didn’t use tape and honed on coarse grits. The amount of hone wear I put on those razors is embarrassing and I ended up with a frowning edge. Better to start with a 12k to get some experience bringing a tired edge back to life.

Edit: you can’t go wrong with @Steve56 offer to hone one for you
 
When you start to learn to sharpen your own razors, I would recommend that you use lapping film. It is extremely cheap to buy and very effective and very consistent. You just lay a progression of the lapping film on top of a very smooth board, I use a piece of plexiglass. Spray with water and go to work. There are videos on YouTube that show this.
 
Can't t be learned by watching videos although a few basic things might come in handy.Like how to hold the blade.
It's s a " feel" thing.Just shave everyday and in a few weeks you're ll be shaving with your eyes closed.
My entire morning routine takes 8 minutes.Lathering up,letting it sit.Meanwhile I brush my teeth and strop the razor.Two pass shave.Two minutes each.
That's s it.
Anybody can do this.People have been doing it for decades.
Good luck.
 
@Steve56 I will send you one once I have one of them is at a point that I know it needs to go to stones. Thanks for offering.

I picked up a couple more Dovos from GSG, this time in 5/8, and shaved with one today.

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I think this was the dullest GSG honed shave ready straight I have tried, but it still could cut hair. I did 3 passes, and then cleaned up the remaining stubble with a Blackbird.

1000011715.jpg

I have seen a lot of advice not to change the razor, but it really didn't seem much different from the 6/8 ones. I am nit sure how much progress I made this time, but it is another notch in the belt.
 

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