first dud on ebay :

[pmaster]

I had ordered this a while ago:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harmonie-20...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

From "lingen" in Germany. I was actually quite glad it seemed like a very decent deal, but it showed up today and the blade has a ~2-3mm slice in it
I doubt there's anyway I can "hone it out" eh? Unless I end-up with a 4/8 blade...
The scales are bone I think, they'd probably turn out nice once all shined-up... :-/ Just trying to justify losing 15$ on it.


The seller did say it wasn't in mint condition...I guess I shoud've asked how was the edge. Lesson learned.

 

[Kentos]

eBay is always a gamble

 

[Midoio]

I won a shoulderless Le Grelot and it has a 2-3mm chip near the tip. It makes me sick when I look at it, I feel pain right in my stomach every time I take it out of the box.

 

[Kentos]

I won a shoulderless Le Grelot and it has a 2-3mm chip near the tip. It makes me sick when I look at it, I feel pain right in my stomach every time I take it out of the box.

Pics? A chil can be ground out.

 

[Lexbomb]

a 2-3mm chip at the tip is probably the best place to have it. I bought a dorko once and as soon as a bought it I wondered why no photos showed the blade open 100% it's cause the blade had a 3-4cm chip in it! Lesson learnt never buy a razor with whole blade photos and never jump on board with 5 seconds left on the auction!

 

[Midoio]

Here it is

 

[pmaster]

Hmm that Grelot doesn't seem too bad, unless i'm not seeing the chip right? It seems like it would hone away fairly well? Then again it kinda sucks because the rest of the blade sure looks nice, and I'm sure it cost you more than I.

For my part I will go ahead and flatbread the darn thing until there's no more hair fracture in the blade. I will probably have to remove like 3mm, so it'll end up like a 4/8 blade, but who knows, maybe that'll salvage it, and if not, lesson learned!

 

[buca3152]

I recently bought a wostenholm washington works 6/8 hollow ground for 60 dollars in what looked like vg condition. It had a crack in the blade. It wasnot visible to the eye but when I wiped it with a cloth it hung up on the crack. This blade was forged between 1848 and 1880. Hardly any hone wear. My guess as these razors might look like they are in good shape because they were cracked early on and sat in a drawer for 100 years or more. Lots of patina but thats easy to clean up. The seller offered a return policy as well as a discount if I wanted to keep it. I sent it back. I also bought a w&b that had a crack. Returned that one also. Now I ask, and if the buyer says he doesnt know, or wont bother to check, I let it go unless they have a good feedback and a return policy.

 

[paco664]

The legrelot is a easy fix... And will be beautiful when done....

The OP's razor needs a bit of bread knifing.... Concentrate more on the heel and you won't lose a terrible amount of metal...

 

[pmaster]

Yeah I checked his return policy, I'd get a refund but still need to pay for shipping, which would cost me more than the actually refund on the razor (razor was 5$, shipping was 10$).

I recently bought a wostenholm washington works 6/8 hollow ground for 60 dollars in what looked like vg condition. It had a crack in the blade. It wasnot visible to the eye but when I wiped it with a cloth it hung up on the crack. This blade was forged between 1848 and 1880. Hardly any hone wear. My guess as these razors might look like they are in good shape because they were cracked early on and sat in a drawer for 100 years or more. Lots of patina but thats easy to clean up. The seller offered a return policy as well as a discount if I wanted to keep it. I sent it back. I also bought a w&b that had a crack. Returned that one also. Now I ask, and if the buyer says he doesnt know, or wont bother to check, I let it go unless they have a good feedback and a return policy.

 

[pmaster]

I tried quickly to have a go at it before leaving for work. Turns out its not that easy to bread knife a full hollow on 1000grit sandpaper?? It was slicing through, and if it didn't slice through, barely any metal was removed...I moved down to 400 grit, it helped a bit more but not much. I did some round-motions at a 45deg angle and it seemed a bit better, but then I noticed another small hairline further up the blade (although not as big as the first one), and was afraid that I actually made that one...

The legrelot is a easy fix... And will be beautiful when done....

The OP's razor needs a bit of bread knifing.... Concentrate more on the heel and you won't lose a terrible amount of metal...

 

[buca3152]

I use my 325 dmt at a 45 degree angle. I dont breadknife anymore. I have and used a hand powered grinding wheel from the 1920s. Very slow turn and I use the side of the wheel. Before I used itI smoothed it out with my dmt so its true. While Im turning it, I have my son spraying some water with a windex bottle with just water in it. I would guess its about 600 grit. After having messed around with too many of these bad blades, I try to be a little more selective in what I would buy now. I bought a mj constantino solingen 5/8 barbers notch for 7 bucks. Seemed like a deal, I spent about 4 hours cleaning it up. It came out greatand shaves great, but now I might have a shave ready $25 blade. 4 hours at $18 dollar profit maybe? Not worth it. And not anymore for me anyway. I guess I wanted to do it a couple times.

 

[pmaster]

Good to know, it didn't seem like I was going anywhere breadknifing. Anyway it might be salvageable either, I will see how it goes. I'll probably waste 2-3 more $ on sandpaper!

However I'm definitely not doing this to save money, i've already figured out that it would be cheaper to get shave-ready razors from Larry at WD (which I will probably do when I run out of projects). Its just fun to try and breathe life in these old things. Plus I work all day in front of a computer and its nice/relaxing to actually use my hands a little when I get home.

I guess I will get some more 4-600 grit and go down on it some more! I'll post some of my progress later.

I use my 325 dmt at a 45 degree angle. I dont breadknife anymore. I have and used a hand powered grinding wheel from the 1920s. Very slow turn and I use the side of the wheel. Before I used itI smoothed it out with my dmt so its true. While Im turning it, I have my son spraying some water with a windex bottle with just water in it. I would guess its about 600 grit. After having messed around with too many of these bad blades, I try to be a little more selective in what I would buy now. I bought a mj constantino solingen 5/8 barbers notch for 7 bucks. Seemed like a deal, I spent about 4 hours cleaning it up. It came out greatand shaves great, but now I might have a shave ready $25 blade. 4 hours at $18 dollar profit maybe? Not worth it. And not anymore for me anyway. I guess I wanted to do it a couple times.

 

[buca3152]

Good to know, it didn't seem like I was going anywhere breadknifing. Anyway it might be salvageable either, I will see how it goes. I'll probably waste 2-3 more $ on sandpaper!

However I'm definitely not doing this to save money, i've already figured out that it would be cheaper to get shave-ready razors from Larry at WD (which I will probably do when I run out of projects). Its just fun to try and breathe life in these old things. Plus I work all day in front of a computer and its nice/relaxing to actually use my hands a little when I get home.

I guess I will get some more 4-600 grit and go down on it some more! I'll post some of my progress later.

I hear ya! I can and was only speaking for myself. Its not about the money only I know. As long as your enjoying yourself, dont mind my rants.

 

[pmaster]

Well, I sanded the whole thing away!! Looks like I might actually make it usable. However, I simply can't seem to be able to set the bevel on that thing...Could it be indeed because I removed too much steel?

 

[buca3152]

I would black permanent marker the bevel. make 5 lapa on you finest hone,for me a 12k. then look at the black left, thats how much metal you have to remove to set the the bevel. if its alot, then i would go to my 1200 dmt, set the bevel and up from there.i usually end up with a couple small chips from the sanding. in that case i would use my 325 dmt then 600 dmt then 1200 and up. good luck!

 

[pmaster]

Well I definitely hit a wall with this one....I tried the 1000grit sandpaper for quite a while, then hte 3k naniwa for a long while, but the bastard simply won't shave my arm hair

 

[pmaster]

Actually you know what, I juuuuuuuuuuuust tried to shave my arm hair wet, and the TIP and Bottom of the razor actually shave!!! But the middle, completely nothing! ....

I will try your trick with the marker if I can find one around

 

[pmaster]

Pure awesomeness!!!!! It cuts armhair midway!!!!

This is sooooooooooooooo cool :-D I thought it wasn't coming back, but then I just honed on and on and on! I know fully understand the "you need a 1k to set bevel" thing! :-D Really setting the bevel from scratch on the 3k meant honing like crazy, but its finally set!!

Now I can finish it and with some cr0x and strop I'm sure it'll be perfect! Definitely the choosen one for the shave tomorrow


Oh and...I have no more arm hair...

 

[buca3152]

The magic marker will tell you alot very quickly. you can even mark the spine and see if its crooked by the ink left on the blade. The only time ive ever used sandpaper to hone was 100 grit in a near wedge that had a bevel that was way off. Good luck with that and let us know how you made out.