Ever-Ready 69- Help?

[cpool222]

I bought this in an antique shop and wanted to restore it, but I can't remove the dingy, whitish stuff on the exterior of the handle. I found a thread of someone unsuccessfully trying to do so... mine is in better shape than his, but it's worthless to me in its present ugly presentation Here's the link to what didn't work, anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

Please help save my Ever-Ready 69

I’ve never restored a brush before, but picked this up for a few bucks and wanted to give it a try. I had a browse of the forum and have read about others’ restorations, but I haven’t seen any that looked this far gone to start... (looks a bit like the former owner used it as a toothbrush for a...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[Alex Jr]

For a brief moment I thought you were asking if we were ever ready for a 69.

Unfortunately for the brush I’m not ready to offer any input. I’m sure experts will chime in.

 

[cpool222]

For a brief moment I thought you were asking if we were ever ready for a 69.

Unfortunately for the brush I’m not ready to offer any input. I’m sure experts will chime in.

Unfortunately, I couldn't get my phone to finish the thread by adding the text, so I had to just send pictures and add the text here Hope someone can help.

 

[Frito Ray]

For a brief moment I thought you were asking if we were ever ready for a 69.

Unfortunately for the brush I’m not ready to offer any input. I’m sure experts will chime in.

 

[GAW9576]

@FreddieP318ti do you have any words of wisdom here.

 

[FreddieP318ti]

On some of these, it can be a pretty difficult process. I have an orange one that ive never been able to fully clean up. Best method I've found is a wet sand progression from around 1500 to 12000 grit if a desk top polisher is unable to remove with a compound progression. Just be sure to avoid the lettering. If you want, hit me up and I may be able to help further.

 

[Borderboss]

It's hard to tell from the photo if the whitish haze is staining on the black or is it the result of the black discoloring. If it's the former, I would try either Flitz as previously noted, or Pre-Lim Surface Cleaner, which is made by the same people that do Renaissance Wax. The Pre-Lim is slightly abrasive but not too much, so it should be able to remove the haze. Assuming that works, I would be inclined to seal it with a coating of poly sprayed on.

 

[luvmysuper]

I would suggest maybe some automotive rubbing compound that's designed for clear coat paint jobs.
It's a very high grit abrasive designed not to scratch clearcoat.
It means a little more work, but it's pretty safe generally.
If you have access to a bench grinder with a cotton wheel, that can help.
A word of caution if you use a wheel:
1. Hold on tight like your life depends on it or you'll launch it across the room.
2. Don't bear down, just lightly make contact and let the compound do the work.
3. Keep it moving CONSTANTLY. If you go over the same area or stay in the same area without letting heat dissipate, you'll melt it.
4. Be extra gentle around the lettering, or just do that area by hand.

 

[cpool222]

On some of these, it can be a pretty difficult process. I have an orange one that ive never been able to fully clean up. Best method I've found is a wet sand progression from around 1500 to 12000 grit if a desk top polisher is unable to remove with a compound progression. Just be sure to avoid the lettering. If you want, hit me up and I may be able to help further.

Thanks, I will

 

[cpool222]

It's hard to tell from the photo if the whitish haze is staining on the black or is it the result of the black discoloring. If it's the former, I would try either Flitz as previously noted, or Pre-Lim Surface Cleaner, which is made by the same people that do Renaissance Wax. The Pre-Lim is slightly abrasive but not too much, so it should be able to remove the haze. Assuming that works, I would be inclined to seal it with a coating of poly sprayed on.

Thanks for the good suggestions! Unfortunately, I can't tell if it's staining on the black or the black discoloring. If I had to guess, I'd guess that it's oxidation from age, but that would just be a guess.

 

[cpool222]

I would suggest maybe some automotive rubbing compound that's designed for clear coat paint jobs.
It's a very high grit abrasive designed not to scratch clearcoat.
It means a little more work, but it's pretty safe generally.
If you have access to a bench grinder with a cotton wheel, that can help.
A word of caution if you use a wheel:
1. Hold on tight like your life depends on it or you'll launch it across the room.
2. Don't bear down, just lightly make contact and let the compound do the work.
3. Keep it moving CONSTANTLY. If you go over the same area or stay in the same area without letting heat dissipate, you'll melt it.
4. Be extra gentle around the lettering, or just do that area by hand.

Thanks for the great suggestions. Since I'm guessing it's oxidation, I'm thinking maybe that the rubbing compound might be a good first attempt since I don't think it could possibly hurt it. If that doesn't do it, I'll try the other suggestions. Thanks to everyone for the info and suggestions!
Cleave

 

[Borderboss]

Thanks for the good suggestions! Unfortunately, I can't tell if it's staining on the black or the black discoloring. If I had to guess, I'd guess that it's oxidation from age, but that would just be a guess.

Is the material black hard rubber? Rub it with your thumb and see if it smells like burnt rubber. If it is, there are a couple of vintage fountain pen vendors that sell a liquid designed to reblacken black hard rubber. Let me know and I can find a link to one for you.

 

[cpool222]

Thanks for all the great suggestions, I really appreciate it! I tried a little bit of everything, but for this handle it seems that the things that helped the most was the fine grit sandpaper followed by this 3-step plastic restorer kit (NOVUS) that I have and have used it on old plastic or Bakelite handles. I figured I’d try it on this hard rubber handle and was pleased with the finishing touch it did after the sandpaper took off the oxidation. It’s not perfect, but much better than I thought it would ever look… it was pretty rough. Again everyone, thanks for taking the time to help!

 

[Legion]

Late to the party and the jobs done, but when I did them in the past it was with sandpaper and then Brasso works nicely to polish plastics.