Escher/Thuringian love. show of your rocks
- Thread starter raccoonandbrush
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timwcic
"Look what I found"
WOW, sure is bigger than the average bear. Give me something to look for. Congrats
Epic
Awesome you snagged that.
Got this one recently.
Not sure on the color. It’s lighter than the piece of bg that I have, but darker than the one that I call yg (not really sure that that’s what it is). It has blue streaks running through it and some blue smudges?
If I put it side to-side with a hellgrun (light green) the green seems the same but it doesn’t have any blue.
That’s the bg on bottom.
Looking at it now it looks a little darker than the lg. Also, I was under the impression that blue banding was predominantly a yg thing. Any help identifying?
Looking at it now it looks a little darker than the lg. Also, I was under the impression that blue banding was predominantly a yg thing. Any help identifying?
Hard to identify the color from the pictures. The stone is what we say wrong cut, means it was cut horizontal through two layers and not vertically. Doesn't mean it is less quality. Sometimes the two layers are very close in quality independent of the color. Layer changes appear through all colors, means a change from green to blue doesn't automatically identify the green layer as yellow-green. But that could well be looking at the photos.
You should keep in mind, that in the thuringian quarries more than 160 layers appear that were once identified and mined as hones. And more than a dozent have been qualified as yellow-green- with all shades of yellow to green....
Regards Peter
You should keep in mind, that in the thuringian quarries more than 160 layers appear that were once identified and mined as hones. And more than a dozent have been qualified as yellow-green- with all shades of yellow to green....
Regards Peter
Thank you! I’m having a hard time getting a good read on this rock. It’s much harder, almost glass like feeling, than the others. I’m not getting that hard but mellow feedback as consistently as I would like. Didn’t spend enough time with it yet. Is it possible that the size (9 1/4” x about 2”) was designed for tools rather than razors? Your expertise, Peter, is much appreciated.
Going off of what Peter said. I've owned a number of "wrong cut" that are usually y/g, lg, or (most often) cloudy grey/lb. And they tend to be much harder than most thuri's in my experience. I almost wonder if maybe there's some relation between the hardness of the material and their deciding to cut it that way. Yours falls between lg and that cloudy grey (at least on my monitor). I've had a TON of that material in 5x1" and a couple larger ones. It's nice, but doesn't have the supple feeling that a nice soft fuchs stone does. Still gives a great edge and not appreciably slower than the softer stuff (but agreed, harder to read by feel).
Hardest Thuri I can remember was a 4x1" y/g "wrong cut" I got from when Mueller sold that leftover material a decade ago.
Hardest Thuri I can remember was a 4x1" y/g "wrong cut" I got from when Mueller sold that leftover material a decade ago.
This makes a lot of sense now. I used to have a Droescher that I think was wrong cut and although I loved the look of it I never liked the hardness. Just figured is was a super hard stone never realized the cut could be part of it.
I got a "genuine thuringian water hone" today. It came in from UK. I have always said I don't like thuris because I bought an apex water hone and it wasn't anywhere near find enough for razors. It was like honing on a bumpy bbw. I decided to give it a second shot and bought this one. I'm pretty sure they are different stones. Three genuine thuringian is WAY softer and the slurry looks kinda grey/ green whereas the other was a charcoal/ medium grey color. Haven't honed on it yet but from flattening I can almost surely say this one is indeed a razor stone. I look forward to trying it out. This one was pretty easy to get out of the box, the glue was brittle. The other feels like it was put down with loktite and that box ain't coming off without shattering the stone.
I honed a union cutlery 3/4 round toe razor on it that had been previously honed and finished on la lune> dans black> old Nortons hard black>stropped firehose>flesh side bridle>latigo and was very, very sharp(and would bite with any pressure). I did about 25 laps on the thuri went firehose>Latigo and the shave was fantastic. Like a very fine coticule in the "can't cut you" feeling but much keener. I love this stone, any ideas on the color? It seems like a light green to me from pictures...
Looks like a wonderful rich green color to me! Congratulations! I'm glad you like it more than the Apex hone. I likely will never part with my Thurigan stones, nothing feels quite as good under a razor.
Hello guys,
I recently bought this stone for £ 40. It should be Thuringian slate from Germany, according to the seller. The dimensions of the stone are 203x47mm, the thickness is between 10 and 15mm. The stone is dark gray in color, definitely finer than Tsushima Nagura or BBW or MST Müller slate. One side is flat, the other used concave with scratches. On cut sides are specific saw marks.
I think this is a Thuringian hone from Faso, according to saw marks and size.
While searching, I found old Faso stone with same saw marks and dimensions of 20x4.5x1.8 cm.
What is your opinion? is it really Faso hone?
I'm wondering what to do with the concave side......leave it as is / flatten it / fill hollow with epoxy
What is your recommendation?
I recently bought this stone for £ 40. It should be Thuringian slate from Germany, according to the seller. The dimensions of the stone are 203x47mm, the thickness is between 10 and 15mm. The stone is dark gray in color, definitely finer than Tsushima Nagura or BBW or MST Müller slate. One side is flat, the other used concave with scratches. On cut sides are specific saw marks.
I think this is a Thuringian hone from Faso, according to saw marks and size.
While searching, I found old Faso stone with same saw marks and dimensions of 20x4.5x1.8 cm.
I'm wondering what to do with the concave side......leave it as is / flatten it / fill hollow with epoxy
What is your recommendation?
I agree, looks like FASO cuts to me too. I have a small FASO stone that I really like. It is faster than my thuringians and has a nice feel.
If your careful you could leave it as is. Without any defects 1cm should be thick enough. If concerned you could glue the concave side down to a board, I would probally carefully flatten it first before glueing.
Don't know why you think this is a FASO hone. Fassbinder Solingen aka FASO was only one small wholesaler for some years who sold Thuringian hones. Could also be an Escher - but without label it is only! a thuringian!
The sawmarks are typical regular for a circular saw. means the stone has been cut most probably in the 20th century. Earlier hones had been cut by hand, tha sawmarks are irregular, not perfect circular and with different distance between the single marks.
I would leave the concave side as it is, maybe lap a little the ends that the stone lays flat and stable on the table and lap the other side for honing.
Regards Peter
The sawmarks are typical regular for a circular saw. means the stone has been cut most probably in the 20th century. Earlier hones had been cut by hand, tha sawmarks are irregular, not perfect circular and with different distance between the single marks.
I would leave the concave side as it is, maybe lap a little the ends that the stone lays flat and stable on the table and lap the other side for honing.
Regards Peter
Dozen sounds right. The seller found the other 3 so now the set is complete.
These sawmarks are quite unique. Very fine, uniform pitch, and in closer look it's a few identical grooves on each other.
Sawmarks on my other stones, they are different. They are much coarser, the pitch is not so consistent and most importantly there is always one deeper groove with wider pitch constantly repeating.
I simply saw these sawmarks on Thuringian stone only on FASO.
Have you seen such sawmarks on Thuri from other companies? (the photo and company name would be great for further search)
Maybe it's just my wishful thinking.
What year production would you put this one I got recently? Saw Mark aren't uniform really.. what color would you call this? Grey-green? I really love this stone, I'm kinda amazed at how sharp it'll get a razor(or knife), I'm also surprised at how soft it is. It's probably one of my softest stone, including all of my coticules. I sharpened a razor on it 2 days ago and it was very sharp(about 15 laps) it felt like it had a little bite but no irritation. Same razor same stone for about 40 laps tested, much more aggressive. I threw it on the hard side of a les lat for about 20 laps and it smoothed out some but still very aggressive, more so than I've gotten from the stone. Tonight I did about 10 laps, then the it on my charnwood for about 30 laps after circles down and back 2x. My charnley usually give crazy smooth edges like a coticule. I can put pressure on it and it wipes off whiskers. I got somre irritation on my neck from my shave tonight. Not bad, I've had irritation about 3x since I started straight shaving and all about the same, very low key, red dots but they are gone in an hour or two. I can't believe how sharp and aggressive that combo made for that edge. I'll probably put a work knife on this combo because it would be amazing for it if I could repeat results. I'm scared to sharpen my knives on the thuri though because of how soft it is. I can scratch it with the tip with almost no pressure on a regular stroke. It's got me looking for another thuri but there are several UK hones and prospecting for a 5"- 6" lpb bout.
Yes, Circular Saw marks. Thus far the only labeled Thuri's I've seen those marks on are Faso's.... but Peter has surely seen more Thuri's than I have.
Personally, I'd probably lap it myself just because Thuri are easy to lap, but You could flip it, I'd just be sure the base you used supported the hollow of the bottom side.
Personally, I'd probably lap it myself just because Thuri are easy to lap, but You could flip it, I'd just be sure the base you used supported the hollow of the bottom side.
