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Electric -> kamisori : Shave Journal of an utter newbie

I'm an electric shaver who has recently been chafing under the annoying constraints and crap shaves conferred by that method. I put up some background and info on my blog (which is pretty new, and mostly targeted at my own family and friends)

but suffice to say I'm going to try to learn wet shaving with a kamisori, starting from nothing.

Thanks to generous forum members here, I've got a Lavender Mama Bear's soap, another partial puck of Mitchell's Wool Fat, and a horsehair brush. Through other members, I've gotten set up very reasonably with a kamisori and gotten it honed and shave ready. Nice!

The blade arrived yesterday to my work, and I took the chance to look at it under the metallurgical optical microscope we have here. Impressively sharp! I was thinking of putting it in the SEM, but the handle makes it too big to fit in the chamber with the blade still in the observation area. The attached images are taken with a 50x long working distance objective, bright field lighting, and at typical screen resolution will work out to an overall magnification of about 1500x. The newton ring/rainbowy stuff is oil on the surface.

I've got a strop (well, a strip of leather anyway) on the way, and a trip to the drug store yesterday evening got me a styptic pencil, witch hazel, and a tube of aloe gel.

So last night I tried my first tentative bit of shaving. Exciting!

Prep-
Hot water face wash
Practice lather, let sit for a few minutes
Hot water rinse

Lather-
For now I am attempting bowl lather with the Mama Bear soap. First I soaked the brush and put a bit of water on the soap to soak for a few minutes, then dumped the water off the soap into a cup, shook the brush off, then worked the brush on the soap. Next the brush went into the cup and started whisking. Quickly realized I didn't have enough room to maneuver in the tin cup I had, so transferred to a kids bath toy scoop which was sitting nearby, also not really big enough. I'll try a kitchen bowl next time. Had to work a surprisingly long time with the brush to get reasonable looking lather; my wrist was getting tired! Even then it seemed anemic. Have to try harder next time. Worked it in and mounded it on my face with the brush.

Shave-
Most of one with the grain pass in the sideburn, cheek, down to jaw areas. Wow, holding the blade is extremely awkward. I spent a lot of time doing contortions in front of the mirror, stretching the skin out, trying different hands and angles, etc. For now, I'm trying to keep omote side down, which of course adds a whole extra layer of awkwardness. But I figure eventually it will seem natural. I can see its going to take a while!

The blade really seemed to catch on my whiskers. Seemed like I needed more pressure to keep the blade down and cutting, but my main goal for now is not to cut myself so I tried to keep a feather touch. Tried to not go over one spot too much or get hung up about the fact that there were big spots where I was not really cutting the whiskers. Made some tentative strokes down closer to the chin and upper lip area, but the whiskers are thicker there and the blade needed much more oomph to push, so I sissied out and left that alone. Also made some mock strokes in the underjaw/neck area but realized its going to be difficult down there to go with the grain, which goes from chin towards ear area there.

Post-shave-
Hot water rinse
Cold water rinse
Witch hazel splash
A bit of aloe gel rubbed on
After that dried out, a bit of avalon organics unscented aloe lotion

So to recap, holding and working the blade was extraordinarily awkward and I spent a lot of time concentrating madly while holding my arms and face in funny, strained positions and peering intently at the mirror through all the limbs and equipment. All in all it took about 45 minutes, and I don't think I cut all that many hairs. But following the advice in the tutorials, I'm focussing in the first few attempts at not cutting up my face and starting to learn technique for all the operations. On the plus side, no bleeding, and in fact today my face feels great. Probably its getting more product and treatment than it is used to. My electric shave this morning seems a lot closer than normal, which is weird.

For next time, I'm pretty sure my beard was not sufficiently softened and my lather was not adequate. Hopefully my blade will be ok with not getting stropped the first few shaves; after all its not doing a whole lot of work. My current thinking is to keep up this sort of dipping my toe in type of shave for a while until I feel more confident about prep, lather, and cutting. A week maybe? We'll see. I'll update with progress.
 

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Welcome

The blade really seemed to catch on my whiskers. Seemed like I needed more pressure to keep the blade down and cutting, but my main goal for now is not to cut myself so I tried to keep a feather touch. Tried to not go over one spot too much or get hung up about the fact that there were big spots where I was not really cutting the whiskers. Made some tentative strokes down closer to the chin and upper lip area, but the whiskers are thicker there and the blade needed much more oomph to push, so I sissied out and left that alone. Also made some mock strokes in the underjaw/neck area but realized its going to be difficult down there to go with the grain, which goes from chin towards ear area there.

I remember that happening with my first shave. You need to put pressure from your hand onto the razor. What you do not want is pressure from the razor onto your face. The pressure should basically be along your face and not against it. Is that clear? It is how I think about it, and it helped. That and just being more comfortable with the razor.
 
Good thing the razor didn't fit in the SEM, it's all covered in cammella oil, and would have totally contaminated the chamber!
 
Last night I gave it another go.

Delta from the previous try:

Prep-
Washed face with hot water and Dr. B's
Wrapped with hot water soaked tea towel for one minute
This may have been a little better than last time, but I think next time I'll try a shower before to see what that does for me

Lather-
Used the Wool Fat soap instead of the Mama Bear's, which seemed a bit easier to lather, but who knows. Scent is a bit powerful for me though. I know, I know, not supposed to be switching products at this point...
Lathered in a stainless pot from my kids' play kitchen, which was a big improvement on the tin cup and bath toy of the previous attempt. Still had to work for quite a while with the brush to get the lather dense, probably still not enough density.

Shave-
Tried to be a bit more bold with the razor, kept in mind the advice of drgnlord to have a stronger connection between hand and razor, while still being gentle on razor to face. But I used more pressure and tried to keep the razor moving and not let it get hung up on whiskers as easily. This worked much better, and I did a little bit in the chin/upper lip zone and in the under jaw area. So I cut a lot more hair, and had better feeling for blade holds and positioning.

Afterwards I did have a few little red spots with a tiny bit of blood and some minor irritation. Seems ok this morning, and I noticed there was much less hair than usual when using the electric so I think the blade actually accomplished some significant work.

So things are going pretty well so far. I wonder how many shaves I can attempt without stropping? Probably not more than one more. Hopefully that piece of leather will show up soon.

Thanks for all the help everyone!
 
Shaves #3 and 4 were ok, and things are improving like my lathering technique and handling of the blade. Around shave #5, I got some really bad irritation and break out in the lower lip to chin area, so I started skipping that. Last night I did #6 and everywhere I shaved seemed like it was not liking it, despite what I though was improving technique with the knife. I began to wonder about sharpness of the blade.

When it arrived fresh from the honemeister, I tried the hanging hair test just because I thought it would be cool. The hair popped off nicely, though due to inexperience I wouldn't attempt to put a number on it. Last night I tried it after shaving and it wouldn't cut either my wife's hair or one that came from my horsehair brush. To get the hair to cut, I had to be holding it on either side of the blade and put a fair bit of pressure between hair and blade. So I'm going to conclude the blade needs work. I'm guessing I may have messed it up with my bad stropping ways. I started using an old copy of the Economist laying on the edge of the bathtub. Yesterday I brought home a piece of 2" wide cotton webbing from work and used that, hanging from a towel bar. I was trying to go very slow and keep the blade facing the right direction, paying particular attention to the flipping at the end of a stroke. But of course I have no idea what I'm doing, beyond having watched a bunch of youtube videos. I do have a piece of leather coming from Zack White to use for a strop, but it has not arrived yet.

The sensible thing at this point would be to send the blade back to the honemeister. But I would eventually like to hone my own, so maybe this is a chance to try to touch it up. From woodworking tool sharpening I've already got Norton waterstones in 600/1200/4k/8k and a Shapton 12k ceramic stone. I have 1um diamond paste, which for plane blades and stuff I usually put on a piece of maple, but could be applied to my cotton webbing (I've got extra). I also have red and green rouge sticks for buffing, which I'm assuming are FeOx and CrOx. I was sort of thinking about putting some green rouge on the cotton strap and seeing if that improved things. I could always send it back to the honemeister if that doesn't work out in any case.

So what do you guys think? Seems like its dull. Should I try to freshen it up? If so, recommendations? Or maybe I should just not fool with it at this point and send it back.

Thanks for the advice,
-Holly
 

Kentos

B&B's Dr. Doolittle.
Staff member
Hey, just found this journal in a round about sort of way! I'll read up on it and see if I can't drop my 2 cents of innane advice on to ya :smile:!!

Ditto on getting this into the straight shaving forums...maybe ask a Mod to move it for you since most of the straight shavers don't venture much into these here parts.
 
On something like shave #15 now. Its going fairly well, but its a slow slog up the learning curve. I sent my razor out for a touch up, just got it back on monday and it is definitely easier shaving than when I sent it out. My current routine is to shave with the razor at night before bed. I do the cheeks/sideburns, jaw and underjaw, upper lip, and sneaking towards the chin. Cheeks/sideburns are pretty good, other areas are still quite challenging. I've still got to completely stay away from below the lower lip to chin and the area where underjaw meets neck, or I get wicked irritation. I've still got razor burn, little nicks, itchy spots, etc. on the areas I do shave with the razor, but its at a manageable level, and so far no horrified looks at work! I do the areas I skipped with the razor, plus cleanup of razored areas, with the electric in the morning when I get up. I'd guess I'm doing maybe 3/4 of the work with the razor now.

Aftershave is a splash on of straight witch hazel. When that dries I apply a little clear aloe gel. When that is dry I put on a bit of unscented avalon organics aloe lotion (what we have around the house for general use).

Its hard to find a pressure and angle at which hairs are being cut well, but I'm not damaging my face. By all accounts I can expect this to improve with practice. Its already WAY better than my first shave in any case. Starting to get used to the contortions and handedness needed to keep the omote on my face for all areas, but I still am figuring out the best directions to cut in different areas and with which hand, since its not always practical to go WTG.

I've settled into using the tube of Tom's of Maine peppermint shave cream I was PIF'd by a generous B&B member. I try to count to 100 slowly while making lather with my horsehair brush, and I feel the lather is coming out nicely.

I'm mostly trying cold water shave, though occasionally I can't face the bracing cold water and think hot should work too. I think I may be noticing better results with cold water, though it could be my imagination.

I figure I should be getting somewhere by shave #100!

-Holly
 
On about #25, and steadily improving. I can do my whole face WTG, usually without nicks and with only light irritation (except in the two hollow spots to either side of my esophagous where neck meets underjaw, those are still pretty unhappy). Over the weekend I stopped touching up with the electric in the morning and relied only on the nightly straight shave. It made me realize what a poor job I'm doing at getting a close shave. Its nice to be able to go over my whole face one way, but I've clearly got a ways to go in terms of shave quality.

Since I've gotten faster and better, I've lately gone to a second pass which I try to aim at XTG. Can't really consistently do the entire face with an exact orientation since the omote down thing makes some places impossible to do with a certain direction. Quality is ok, but not super. Especially in the chin area and the underjaw/neck, many hairs remain imprecisely cut and too long.

I've started trying an ATG pass in the areas that are not too irritated or bloody at the end. But the ATG is a bloodbath! The razor just really wants to dig in and cut too deep. Cheeks and stuff are ok, but where the hair is thick (chin) or skin is sensitive (neck/underjaw), its a real mess. It seems better to use a very low angle, significantly lower than I need to use in a WTG pass to get reasonable cutting to happen.

Any tips on making ATG easier to tackle?

Thanks,
- Holly
 
Good stuff! Welcome to blade shaving!

On the ATG where the upper lips and sides of the mouth are concerned, I hold the blade with both hands when doing my upper lip. I then first stretch my lip over my teeth and make a face like I am yawning, and then I go at the whiskers. Works for me every time. With the lower kneck, I stretch the skin down right below the adam's apple like I am choking myself (no, I don't really choke myself! :lol: ) and have at the whiskers. The jaw line I have been stretching the skin up from my cheeks. I am surprised by how much area I can get at by doing that stretch!
 
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