Damn Comfortable Shave

[Raven Koenes]

Looking at some pictures earlier on another thread it looked to me like the only structural | functional difference between the Gentile and the Fatip OC razors (which should include the Schöne?) is the
closed comb vs the open comb. The top cap, the rigidity, the gap, and the blade exposure (?) look to be the same.

Someone said that the Gentile because it is smooth is mistaken for a mild razor.

Any thoughts on that?

They are the same the only differences are nine combs instead of eleven on the Schone, and nine combs on the solid bar of the Gentile. Rigidity, gap (none) and blade exposure, are all the same. However, the Gentile is a lot milder than both the Schone and the Grande. Fatip even says as much and that it is designed for sensitive skin that may require more passes than the Fatip OC's. That being said it is not exactly mild and a bit deceiving in that regard because of blade rigidity. Like you said it has a lot of blade feel, and I find no problem finding blade angle. I would put it at an upper mid range aggressiveness compared to Fatip Open Combs which are straight up aggressive. I don't know why the bar alone should make such a difference. They are all very efficient and smooth shaving razors once you get the swing of them.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Oops.

It's Special Reserve.

Aftershaves are very much YMMV because whether we like a scent is, as far as know, once we get outside of things which stink, and once we get into the world of scents for sale, entirely subjective.

Special Reserve has some very earthy (that's me being charitable) undertones, but they are far from overpowering, and mostly fade. What lingers is pleasant to me. I have no idea how to describe the scent. It's not flowery, or sweet. Maybe it is vaguely similar to bay rhum, but only vaguely.

Anyway, I like it fine, and I wear it once or twice a week. I would not want to wear Special Reserve every day.

I currently buy only very inexpensive aftershaves. My fairly expensive Royale Bay Rhum and Royale Lyme will last for many more years. Clubman products are generally cheap enough to try and discard or PIF if you find them terrible.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

They are the same the only differences are nine combs instead of eleven on the Schone, and nine combs on the solid bar of the Gentile. Rigidity, gap (none) and blade exposure, are all the same. However, the Gentile is a lot milder than both the Schone and the Grande. Fatip even says as much and that it is designed for sensitive skin that may require more passes than the Fatip OC's. That being said it is not exactly mild and a bit deceiving in that regard because of blade rigidity. Like you said it has a lot of blade feel, and I find no problem finding blade angle. I would put it at an upper mid range aggressiveness compared to Fatip Open Combs which are straight up aggressive. I don't know why the bar alone should make such a difference. They are all very efficient and smooth shaving razors once you get the swing of them.

Thanks, Rave.

I hope this clears up the issue which is thinking the Gentile is much like the RazoRock Baby Smooth.

They probably look similar, but are their gaps the same? Their blade rigidity? Their blade exposure? The angle of the blade? I don't know the answers to all of these questions, but the questions need answers when comparing razor which look similar.

 

[Esox]

This morning I used my NEW SC with a new Russian Gillette Green blade.

I have not mastered entirely the shaving on the cap | head method with this razor, but sometimes I'm hitting the spot. Still, it's a nice shave.

I'm curious how you find these other razors compared to your AS-D2?

Have you found any as comfortable, more comfortable, more passes needed or less, blade choices and differences among them? If you had to pick a single razor and blade combination as far as comfort went, which would it be and why?

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I'm curious how you find these other razors compared to your AS-D2?

Not enough data yet to answer well.

Most of the razors I've tried have been imperfect. More imperfect than the NEW SC. In terms of closeness of shave, smoothness of shave, and comfort, the SC blows everything away. Particularly, comfort.

However, that may be my increased experience. I need to return to, or revisit the Feather AS-D2. My main issue with the Feather razor was I couldn't get a comfortable ATG shave on my neck; I can get that with the NEW SC.

Have to also revisit the Gentile and the Type O clone.

Comfort is #1 on my list. Always. Forever.

Hence, Damn Comfortable Shave. A quest. An adventure. A goal. Nothing else ranks.

Have you found any as comfortable, more comfortable, more passes needed or less, blade choices and differences among them?

All require a bunch of passes, but the NEW SC passes deliver - closeness and comfort - not perfect, but better than any other razor I've tried.

Again, I blame user error and inexperience, and not the tools. Well, sometimes it is the tools and not the workman, but here the workman is inexperienced, etc.

See below.

If you had to pick a single razor and blade combination as far as comfort went, which would it be and why?

NEW SC. Blade pending (not enough data yet.

Answer is subject to revision. I have several blades and razors to try out, some of which are in transit.

Also, I haven't really learned the Gentile yet.

I love the Ikon X3 except for its lack of blade rigidity. It shaves great. Maybe the PAA Bakelite will shave great + be rigid?

I suspect one of the SE razors will be at the top of my list once I get the shaving technique down. The Type O clone with the TWIN blade shaves amazingly well, but I've not figured out the NO PRESSURE + angle stuff quite well enough.

No experience yet with Colonial General SS; in transit, both razor and blades from Japan.

No experience with GEM razors, but own several; GEM G Bar, the mildest, in transit. Have blades in hand. ER 1924, very aggressive, in transit.

So, NEW SC so far. I have a plan to try all the other razors, but have not chiseled the plan in stone.

 

[Esox]

In terms of closeness of shave, smoothness of shave, and comfort, the SC blows everything away. Particularly, comfort.

Sounds like a clear winner. I can see rabidus smiling lol.

I am surprised that you find it an easier shave ATG than your AS-D2. Perhaps you're finding the same as I did, that a little more efficiency than my Tech offers is a good thing.

Maybe you should try a post war Tech. I find mine gives a feeling of.....I'm not sure how to say it, but it feels like its more rigid than my NEW SC and somehow has a more solid feel to it. I cant explain why, maybe its the lesser gap it has.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

My new (replacement for a returned defective) Schöne arrived today. It looks great, and seems fine.

Already loaded a Russian Gillette Green blade with only very minor alignment problems; that's a huge change from the returned razor in which I couldn't align the blade. Mr. Schöne is a likely starter for the game tomorrow.

Do razors have a gender?

I went with the Green on the theory that it's a blade I know and like. Relative to some blades it's mild. The razor is aggressive, so pairing it with a smooth, and not terribly sharp blade sounds like a good plan to me. No, I don't consider the Green to lack sharpness, and testing data shows it's as sharp as some blades generally considered sharper. Still, it isn't a Feather, nor a Nacet (not that I have any of the Nacet blades), nor a Russian Gillette Yellow.

It will be interesting to be able to compare the Schöne with my Gentile.

The PAA Bakelite was out for delivery today, too, but I must have had the office door locked when the delivery guy came by, and it would be too much for him to knock on the door. One razor a day is plenty, but I was hoping to try the slant first. Ah, well, the best laid plans...

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

My new (replacement for a returned defective) Schöne arrived today. It looks great, and seems fine.

Already loaded a Russian Gillette Green blade with only very minor alignment problems; that's a huge change from the returned razor in which I couldn't align the blade. Mr. Schöne is a likely starter for the game tomorrow.

Do razors have a gender?

I went with the Green on the theory that it's a blade I know and like. Relative to some blades it's mild. The razor is aggressive, so pairing it with a smooth, and not terribly sharp blade sounds like a good plan to me. No, I don't consider the Green to lack sharpness, and testing data shows it's as sharp as some blades generally considered sharper. Still, it isn't a Feather, nor a Nacet (not that I have any of the Nacet blades), nor a Russian Gillette Yellow.

It will be interesting to be able to compare the Schöne with my Gentile.

The PAA Bakelite was out for delivery today, too, but I must have had the office door locked when the delivery guy came by, and it would be too much for him to knock on the door. One razor a day is plenty, but I was hoping to try the slant first. Ah, well, the best laid plans...

Happy shaves,

Jim

I'm not sure about a gender, but my Grande is like Mr.T in his prime winning the "America's Toughest Bouncer" in the early 80's. Stubble. I pity the fool. lol

I look forward to reading your thoughts on the Schone.

Regarding plans, "Announcing your plans is a good way to hear God laugh." - Al Swearengen

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I'm not sure about a gender, but my Grande is like Mr.T in his prime winning the "America's Toughest Bouncer" in the early 80's. Stubble. I pity the fool. lol

I look forward to reading your thoughts on the Schone.

Regarding plans, "Announcing your plans is a good way to hear God laugh." - Al Swearengen

View attachment 829596

My plans also oftentimes include, although I don't know it, changing my mind.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

The new Schöne is loaded and waiting on the launching pad.

If I understand all that I've read, the Schöne will be a significant step up in aggressiveness for me in terms of DE razors. I've used the Feather AS-D2, the Fatip Gentile, the Ikon X3 slant, and the vintage Gillette NEW SC. I've also used the ebarbershop Type O clone, but it's a SE injector, and a different animal.

I have no idea what the Schöne is going to feel like except I sort of think it should be similar to the Gentile.

I am much more of a shallow shaver than a steep shaver. No SASA membership for me!

So, I will start with the razor on its head (cap) and work down until I know whiskers are being cut, trying to avoid much blade feel. I am not particularly bothered by blade feel, but I am bothered by razor burn.

This is much the same method I've been trying to perfect with the NEW SC.

I am hoping the more aggressive or more efficient Schöne will cut down on the number of passes needed, etc.

With most new razors I have considerable apprehension and trepidation before my first shave with them. The Schöne is no exception.

I will try to take it slow.

Of course, all that assumes I won't chicken out by morning.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

The new Schöne is loaded and waiting on the launching pad.

If I understand all that I've read, the Schöne will be a significant step up in aggressiveness for me in terms of DE razors. I've used the Feather AS-D2, the Fatip Gentile, the Ikon X3 slant, and the vintage Gillette NEW SC. I've also used the ebarbershop Type O clone, but it's a SE injector, and a different animal.

I have no idea what the Schöne is going to feel like except I sort of think it should be similar to the Gentile.

I am much more of a shallow shaver than a steep shaver. No SASA membership for me!

So, I will start with the razor on its head (cap) and work down until I know whiskers are being cut, trying to avoid much blade feel. I am not particularly bothered by blade feel, but I am bothered by razor burn.

This is much the same method I've been trying to perfect with the NEW SC.

I am hoping the more aggressive or more efficient Schöne will cut down on the number of passes needed, etc.

With most new razors I have considerable apprehension and trepidation before my first shave with them. The Schöne is no exception.

I will try to take it slow.

Of course, all that assumes I won't chicken out by morning.

Happy shaves,

Jim

I felt the same about my Fatip, but as soon as the razor moved on my skin, all of that worry went away. I think you'll experience much the same.

Which blade are you using?

I might just reload the Yellow and have at er again tomorrow myself. The Kai didnt get so close...

Edit: Gillette Green lol, dont mind me

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

On first impressions the Schöne is a terrific razor, but keep reading.

Usually I do three passes on my face. Occasionally, four.

On my neck, I usually do at least four passes. Usually, five or seven, or whatever it takes, with touch ups.

My shave today was as usual. Meaning I washed my face last night with olive oil bar soap, and applied Nivea SS Balm afterwards. This morning I lathered with Noxzema by hand, and left it on until I showered when I washed it off with olive oil bar soap.

I consider both of these steps prep work for the morning's shave.

After showering, I rinsed my beard with cold tap water, and applied the first lather. Then, I did the usual cold soaked towel over my lather for a couple or so minutes while I reclined in the recliner next door to the bathroom, in my tv den.

Every lather followed a cold water rinse.


My soap was Stone Cottage. My brush, Semogue SOC boar. I face lathered. Witch hazel. Osage rub. Skin food. Pinaud Clubman.

Have I mentioned how valuable Trumper's Skin Food is? Someone said it was expensive. They don't give it away, but it is so good I'd pay more if I had to. Great stuff. The very best. Smells great on top of my Osage rub, too, which is a tall order. Buy it. Love it. It really feeds your skin!

Once I began shaving my fear of the aggressive razor disappeared immediately. It is not a scary razor!

There is considerable blade feel, but it is not objectionable. The Russian Gillette Green blade felt smooth and sharp, but not too sharp.

I did three passes on my face, and four on my neck, including ATG.

After two passes it was apparent two passes were not enough. I had hoped otherwise, but reality is what it is.

My initial impression was I got a fairly close shave, but I think it was no closer than I've been getting with my other razors. I did not do any touch ups, and didn't try to find spots needing more attention, but there were a good many of them, going by what I feel on my face now, a couple of hours after shaving.

I am not going to badmouth a razor after one shave, but my initial impression was that this razor is very nice, and shaves fine, but it is not as efficient as I'd both hoped and expected. I may improve my skills with it in which case I'll like it better.

Compared to the ebarbershop Type O clone with the TWIN blade the Schöne is inefficient I think. Subject to more experience with the razor.

However, my shave was quite comfortable. Not a Damn Comfortable Shave but pretty close so far. I will reassess that later, as well as the longevity of the shave.

This is a razor I will certainly use again. I liked the Russian Gillette Green in the razor. I liked the combination better than the combination of the Green with the NEW SC; not that the SC-Russian combo was bad, but it wasn't as close and long lasting as the SC-Blue Diamond combo.

So, it's a fine razor, but not as wonderful as I'd hoped. Not yet, anyway.

Yes, if it were my only razor, I'd be a happy man. I want though to be a happy man with consistently close, long lasting, BBS, DC Shaves.

Happy shaves,
'
Jim

 

[Esox]

Once I began shaving my fear of the aggressive razor disappeared immediately. It is not a scary razor!

Not scary at all and oddly smooth. It is intimidating but once you feel it in use, that goes away completely. Different blades do give quite different feels though, more so in my Grande than my other razors.

You may have a more effective shave with a sharper blade, and quite likely a closer one as well. With a blade at the sharpness level of the Gillette Green I'd need a much steeper angle. If I had used the Green and the GSB at a very steep angle I doubt I would have had the issues with them I did. Rave and 1Cal are both steep angle shavers, and they both enjoy the GSB.

If you continue using the Green, try adjusting the angle slightly, but the better option would be to move to a Blue Diamond, or even try a Derby Extra. Then buy a tuck of Gillette Yellows

It seems you're also shaving ATG again consistently and not having the issues you were. Thoughts on why?

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

It seems you're also shaving ATG again consistently and not having the issues you were. Thoughts on why?

Just lucky?

Seriously, I do not know. Different razors? Could be.
Better technique? I am not aware of my technique having improved by a quantum leap or anything of that sort, but maybe enough gradual improvements have taken effect.

My guess? Different razors. However, to prove that I'd have to go back to previous razors, particularly the Feather AS-D2. Problem is: Too Many Razors. Other problem is: Can only shave once a day.

I received two razors today.



The first is a GEM B Bar. From ebay. I knew it was nice and clean, but I had no idea. It wasn't terribly cheap, but reasonable for a very nice razor. It is way better than the pictures. Vastly nice. The razor looks brand new.

This is the GEM I've been wanting to try first. Supposed to be the mildest (or one of the mildest) of the GEMs. It is a flat out beauty. Oh, my, is it nice. Almost can't shave with it. Almost, but I will shave with it at least once.



The second new razor today is the Phoenix Bakelite Open Comb Slant DE razor. I got the Storm Trooper. It weighs about as much as a whispered sweet nothing in a sixteen year old girl's ear. I believe it will hold the blade in a very rigid manner; it looks to me like it will be about as rigid as the NEW SC. Of course, I've not tested that observation yet. If it is as good as it looks to be I will be exceedingly pleased, and order the other color(s), too.

There are one or two other razors in transit, but they are not ones I plan to shave with any time soon. One is the very aggressive ER 1924 in, I believe, fabulous shape.

I can't wait to shave again. (How weird is that?)



Over time all will be revealed, and I will have answered your question more fully I hope.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

I think your technique is slowly evolving at its own pace along with changes in your skin since starting with DE razors. Different razors may be helping too, but as I've said before, its an evolution and things happen on their own in their own time.

There is a solution to the too many razors problem. Pick one and learn it. Try different blades and find the one that works the best in it. Then work on getting the best shave you can from it. Once you think you're reached that plateau, remember the combination and start again with another razor.

Eventually you'll find what works best for you with all, but I admit you do have a lot of razors so that may take some time haha.

I cant help with the "only being able to shave once a day" problem, but look at it like this, you get to twice as often as i do lol.

Nirvana awaits!

 

[Raven Koenes]

Fyi, I've found Fatips and Schones love a steeper angle, maybe not as steep as I may shave but steeper, and I'm not just saying this because I'm SASA. At least with your Schone the blade is not hard to find.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Fyi, I've found Fatips and Schones love a steeper angle, maybe not as steep as I may shave but steeper, and I'm not just saying this because I'm SASA. At least with your Schone the blade is not hard to find.

You are fully SASA and fully BOSC. Maybe BOSCOS.

You're right. The Schöne blade is front and center. Can't miss it. I will play with angles, but I am not SASA.

Tomorrow I will shave for sure with the Phoeniz Bakelite OC Slant!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I think your technique is slowly evolving at its own pace along with changes in your skin since starting with DE razors. Different razors may be helping too, but as I've said before, its an evolution and things happen on their own in their own time.

There is a solution to the too many razors problem. Pick one and learn it. Try different blades and find the one that works the best in it. Then work on getting the best shave you can from it. Once you think you're reached that plateau, remember the combination and start again with another razor.

Eventually you'll find what works best for you with all, but I admit you do have a lot of razors so that may take some time haha.

I cant help with the "only being able to shave once a day" problem, but look at it like this, you get to twice as often as i do lol.

Nirvana awaits!

The BOSC way: Learn them all. Change everyday to a different razor and a different blade. Push the envelope.



But, take notes!

 

[Esox]

In regards to angle used. I've found a steeper angle will make a blade more effective, but my skin cant usually tolerate it for long. A shallower angle needs a sharper blade in my experience. How sharp, only the person using it can say.

Milder blades, like a Derby Extra in my NEW SC give me a much more effective shave with a steep angle. My usual shave with the NEW SC and a Derby Extra would give me a 4-5 hour BBS. Last I used that combination, with a steep angle, gave me a 10 hour BBS.

My 23 hour BBS shave with the Regent and a Polsilver was also a steep angle, but it wasnt as comfortable as I like. Keeping it even between the SB and cap with a Perma Sharp is complete nirvana, but around an 8-9 hour BBS shave.

 

[Esox]

But, take notes!

Oh yes! LOL

When I started back to DE's in April, I made a custom template in Excel and used those spreadsheets tracking blades, soaps and razors graded by colour so I knew what worked best.