Damn Comfortable Shave

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Today's shave was a sign of something.



Today I used both a brand new razor and a blade brand new to me. It was my first use of either.

The razor was the Phoenix Bakelite Open Comb Slant. The blade, a Derby Extra.

Cold water. Stone Cottage. Stirling badger. Face lather. Three face passes. Probably six neck passes, or so. Witch hazel. Osage rub. Skin Food.

This razor has a huge amount of front and center, in your face blade feel. That is not to say the blade feel is a bad thing, but the blade is definitely there.

I tried to shave on the cap as much as I could. Too much on the cap and it won't shave. I am not sure I hit the sweet spot exactly, but I'll work with the razor to find the spot if it can be found, and why wouldn't that be possible for me?

I believe I used very little pressure.

The shave was not uncomfortable during the shave itself. I have a bit of discomfort on my lower neck now (an hour after the shave). Not horrible, but far from meeting my objective of achieving a Damn Comfortable Shave.

I was disappointed in this first use of the Phoenix Bakelite OC slant. It was not nearly as efficient as I had hoped. Compared to my first shave with the Ikon X3 (which, to be fair, is extremely without blade rigidity) the PAA BOCS was inefficient. Compared to my first shave with the NEW SC my first shave with the PAA BOCS was inefficient and uncomfortable.

I believe my discomfort with the PAA BOCS was because it required so many passes with so much blade exposure. I doubt it was my technique (but it could have been, of course). I doubt it was a function of gap as the razor has very little (less than the NEW SC). I doubt it was a function of a lack of rigidity as the razor is quite rigid tightened completely.

Obviously, this is a very different razor, and it would be unfair for me to conclude after one shave that I don't like it, or that it is not a great razor. From what others have reported this razor has, for some people, a learning curve.

The razor was easy enough to use (although maybe I used it improperly). It seems well made, and it looks very interesting. It rinses easily. I had to put the blade in two or three times to achieve good alignment (and yes, I followed the instructions to the letter).

I would rate my shave as BBS on my face (or very close to that), and DFS on my neck in spite of more passes than I would like to make with such a prominent blade.

In spite of what might be a fairly negative review you should understand that I think this razor has promise. I would suggest to you that you might like it a lot. It has very little gap. It is (properly tightened) very rigid. It is well made. It is cute. So, don't blame me if you buy one to try it out for a very low price.



Still, just going by how my neck feels I will use this razor again, but not tomorrow.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Ron R]

Today's shave was a sign of something.

View attachment 830113

Today I used both a brand new razor and a blade brand new to me. It was my first use of either.

The razor was the Phoenix Bakelite Open Comb Slant. The blade, a Derby Extra.

Cold water. Stone Cottage. Stirling badger. Face lather. Three face passes. Probably six neck passes, or so. Witch hazel. Osage rub. Skin Food.

This razor has a huge amount of front and center, in your face blade feel. That is not to say the blade feel is a bad thing, but the blade is definitely there.

I tried to shave on the cap as much as I could. Too much on the cap and it won't shave. I am not sure I hit the sweet spot exactly, but I'll work with the razor to find the spot if it can be found, and why wouldn't that be possible for me?

I believe I used very little pressure.

The shave was not uncomfortable during the shave itself. I have a bit of discomfort on my lower neck now (an hour after the shave). Not horrible, but far from meeting my objective of achieving a Damn Comfortable Shave.

I was disappointed in this first use of the Phoenix Bakelite OC slant. It was not nearly as efficient as I had hoped. Compared to my first shave with the Ikon X3 (which, to be fair, is extremely without blade rigidity) the PAA BOCS was inefficient. Compared to my first shave with the NEW SC my first shave with the PAA BOCS was inefficient and uncomfortable.

I believe my discomfort with the PAA BOCS was because it required so many passes with so much blade exposure. I doubt it was my technique (but it could have been, of course). I doubt it was a function of gap as the razor has very little (less than the NEW SC). I doubt it was a function of a lack of rigidity as the razor is quite rigid tightened completely.

Obviously, this is a very different razor, and it would be unfair for me to conclude after one shave that I don't like it, or that it is not a great razor. From what others have reported this razor has, for some people, a learning curve.

The razor was easy enough to use (although maybe I used it improperly). It seems well made, and it looks very interesting. It rinses easily. I had to put the blade in two or three times to achieve good alignment (and yes, I followed the instructions to the letter).

I would rate my shave as BBS on my face (or very close to that), and DFS on my neck in spite of more passes than I would like to make with such a prominent blade.

In spite of what might be a fairly negative review you should understand that I think this razor has promise. I would suggest to you that you might like it a lot. It has very little gap. It is (properly tightened) very rigid. It is well made. It is cute. So, don't blame me if you buy one to try it out for a very low price.

View attachment 830123

Still, just going by how my neck feels I will use this razor again, but not tomorrow.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Nice review Jim, very good detail and look forward to the next time you decide to give it a test. (usally the first shave can be a tell a lot for us I believe, if you know the blade then the razor is telling you some little issues that might need some addressing or it is not for your technique style}to aggressive ?)

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I've been reading the Timeless website. They seem to be saying their razor with a larger gap (95) is aggressive (and they clearly mean efficient if you read what they say). They say, in contrast, their razor with a smaller gap (65) is mild (less efficient).

Quoting them:

"0.95mm blade gap MEDIUM AGGRESSIVE: Gets very close very quickly without irritation

"0.68mm blade gap MILD: Nice and mild but takes more passes to get BBS"

I find interesting what I see as a very widely held opinion which strongly correlates a larger gap with efficiency and a smaller gap with inefficiency.

I am far to much of a newbie to have any expertise in this matter, but it does not seem to be accurate. For example, the Fatip Grande is widely regarded as very aggressive (I assume that means efficient), but it has perhaps the lowest gap of any DE razor.

If so, gap isn't the essential, across the board variable. However, it may be the only variable change between the 68 and 95 Timeless razors, in which case gap would be the factor.

I don't understand everything going into what makes a razor efficient or aggressive. I do not understand exactly what the term aggressive means either. I believe it is used in an imprecise manner. But, what do I know? Not much.

Surely, there are many other factors going into razor efficiency. Gap is one (maybe), but not always. Blade exposure. Blade angle. Razor angles of all sorts (internal to design, and relative to the skin). I'm not sure if anyone has clearly and convincingly ascertained and elucidated the factors.

I doubt blade rigidity is much (or any) factor in efficiency, but it is, as I see it, a factor in comfort, and in whether weepers are likely.

It is also interesting that the Timeless folks describe their aggressive (95) razor as one which "gets very close very quickly without irritation." I assume they are addressing the rigidity of their razor which looks to me to be very high. Why would anyone want one of their mild razors if the 95 is both very efficient and without irritation?

Don't worry. I am just wondering here, but I would like a very efficient razor which doesn't irritate my skin at all. The NEW SC comes the closest so far, but it is not as efficient as I'd like.

 

[Cal]

I tried to shave on the cap as much as I could.

I would suggest that that was what caused all the problems Jim. For me, and just about everyone else I know that use the PBOCS it's STEEP! Ride that guard! Handle parallel to the face!

The first shave I had with mine was BBS in two passes, not to mention the quickest DE shave that I'd had. Angle, and the correct PRESSURE, is everything (barring slick lather) IMO.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I would suggest that that was what caused all the problems Jim. For me, and just about everyone else I know that use the PBOCS it's STEEP! Ride that guard! Handle parallel to the face!

The first shave I had with mine was BBS in two passes, not to mention the quickest DE shave that I'd had. Angle, and the correct PRESSURE, is everything (barring slick lather) IMO.

It goes against all my instincts and against the grain, but I trust my betters, and I will do as you suggest.

It wasn't like I got a horrible shave, but I want what you're getting rather than what I got.

 

[Cal]

I trust my betters ...

Dunno 'bout that.

BUT:
There are several YouTube videos which have people shaving with (including trying out for the first time) this magic razor. Give them a view and see what you think.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

This video is worth a minute just to hear the cool song at the beginning. Plus, it is a good review.

In the videos, I see a lot of SASA guys

I'd watched some videos before buying the razor, but they're worth watching more than once.

 

[Esox]

Today's shave was a sign of something.

View attachment 830113

Today I used both a brand new razor and a blade brand new to me. It was my first use of either.

The razor was the Phoenix Bakelite Open Comb Slant. The blade, a Derby Extra.

Cold water. Stone Cottage. Stirling badger. Face lather. Three face passes. Probably six neck passes, or so. Witch hazel. Osage rub. Skin Food.

This razor has a huge amount of front and center, in your face blade feel. That is not to say the blade feel is a bad thing, but the blade is definitely there.

I tried to shave on the cap as much as I could. Too much on the cap and it won't shave. I am not sure I hit the sweet spot exactly, but I'll work with the razor to find the spot if it can be found, and why wouldn't that be possible for me?

I believe I used very little pressure.

The shave was not uncomfortable during the shave itself. I have a bit of discomfort on my lower neck now (an hour after the shave). Not horrible, but far from meeting my objective of achieving a Damn Comfortable Shave.

I was disappointed in this first use of the Phoenix Bakelite OC slant. It was not nearly as efficient as I had hoped. Compared to my first shave with the Ikon X3 (which, to be fair, is extremely without blade rigidity) the PAA BOCS was inefficient. Compared to my first shave with the NEW SC my first shave with the PAA BOCS was inefficient and uncomfortable.

I believe my discomfort with the PAA BOCS was because it required so many passes with so much blade exposure. I doubt it was my technique (but it could have been, of course). I doubt it was a function of gap as the razor has very little (less than the NEW SC). I doubt it was a function of a lack of rigidity as the razor is quite rigid tightened completely.

Obviously, this is a very different razor, and it would be unfair for me to conclude after one shave that I don't like it, or that it is not a great razor. From what others have reported this razor has, for some people, a learning curve.

The razor was easy enough to use (although maybe I used it improperly). It seems well made, and it looks very interesting. It rinses easily. I had to put the blade in two or three times to achieve good alignment (and yes, I followed the instructions to the letter).

I would rate my shave as BBS on my face (or very close to that), and DFS on my neck in spite of more passes than I would like to make with such a prominent blade.

In spite of what might be a fairly negative review you should understand that I think this razor has promise. I would suggest to you that you might like it a lot. It has very little gap. It is (properly tightened) very rigid. It is well made. It is cute. So, don't blame me if you buy one to try it out for a very low price.

View attachment 830123

Still, just going by how my neck feels I will use this razor again, but not tomorrow.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Not a bad word to be read about Derby Extra .

I'm also with Cal on using steeper angle, but especially with that blade. Flip it and go again, but steeper.

If you still find that razor inefficient, try it with a Blue Diamond.

In my NEW SC with a Derby Extra, shallow gave me a consistent 4-5 hour BBS. Steep, gave me 10 hours.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Not a bad word to be read about Derby Extra .

I'm also with Cal on using steeper angle, but especially with that blade. Flip it and go again, but steeper.

If you still find that razor inefficient, try it with a Blue Diamond.

In my NEW SC with a Derby Extra, shallow gave me a consistent 4-5 hour BBS. Steep, gave me 10 hours.

I'll flip it, and try again.

My neck is only a little hot. I applied aloe gel + an aftershave (Clubman Special Reserve) a half hour ago, and it did not burn at all. So, no big deal.

Will flip the blade now.

I thought you were using the NEW SC with the extreme shallow on the cap method you'd read about and posted about. Interesting.

I've been reading about the ATT Slant. Pretty. Pretty big gap. Can't find pictures showing blade rigidity.

 

[Esox]

You didnt find it rough and/or harsh? No tugging?

I'm wondering whats causing the irritation, the blade itself, or the exposure. Compensating for the light weight with pressure?

Or maybe this.

Probably six neck passes, or so

With that much exposure, 6 passes, or so would likely do it. Steeper angle, 1 or 2 passes should do it.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

From what guys are saying, the PAA BOCS requires a right steep angle. I can do that.

Also, the blade alignment is not supposed to look right, I think.

I put in a Blue Diamond.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

A Blade Gap Comparison Chart. Interesting stuff.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

You didnt find it rough and/or harsh? No tugging?

I'm wondering whats causing the irritation, the blade itself, or the exposure. Compensating for the light weight with pressure?

Or maybe this.



With that much exposure, 6 passes, or so would likely do it. Steeper angle, 1 or 2 passes should do it.

Oops, I missed a question.

No, I didn't find the PAA BOCS rough or harsh. Not really. Not saying it was particularly smooth. The main feeling - certainly the most noticeable feeling, perhaps a feeling strong enough to overpower anything else - was the blade feeling. Very front and center, very in your face. Not bad, just very prominent.

As blade feeling goes it was exactly what some people might like. Mentioning no names.



It does appear a steep angle is called for.



I think my neck will have recovered enough in the morning to try the razor again. If not, I have good options.

Easy enough to try one on for size.

 

[Esox]

From what guys are saying, the PAA BOCS requires a right steep angle. I can do that.

I'm only guessing about the razor, but that blade I find likes a steeper angle. Think 60/40 favouring the cap.

As blade feeling goes it was exactly what some people might like. Mentioning no names.

lol

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

This morning's shave, my second, with the Phoenix Bakelite OC Slant was great. It is a fabulous razor.



I used a new Blue Diamond blade. Ice water everything. Stone Cottage soap. Stirling badger brush. Witch hazel. Osage rub. Skin Food. Special Reserve splash.

Three face passes. Three neck passes. No touch ups.

Face is BBS. Neck is DFS. I didn't go for neck baby.

I took the advice to shave at a very steep angle. It was the right advice.

The shave was comfortable. There was plenty of blade feel, but it was not a bother.



You need this razor!

I will further assess things later, but this is one fine razor.

I am a happy camper.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Gaetano]

I really want to try a slant, but every time I look at the Phoenix Bakelite it makes me think of a Bic disposable! Your review is making it tempting, though.

I'll say it again--this thread has been incredibly informative! I am still road-testing a bunch of blades I received and now have some others I need to try. Jim and Esox, you have inspired me to start documenting my daily results.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I really want to try a slant, but every time I look at the Phoenix Bakelite it makes me think of a Bic disposable! Your review is making it tempting, though.

I'll say it again--this thread has been incredibly informative! I am still road-testing a bunch of blades I received and now have some others I need to try. Jim and Esox, you have inspired me to start documenting my daily results.

Thanks for the kind words. It is so great to know my adventure towards a consistent Damn Comfortable Shave is of help to someone besides me.

 

[Capisco Capisce]

In looking at that picture I could imagine that blade flexing slightly either up or down depending on a shallow or steep angle.

Adding a shim under the blade would give it an extra .004" gap, along with some added rigidity. Adding shims on top wont add gap, but it will change the blade angle to slightly shallower, more so again if you use 2 shims, and it will greatly increase the rigidity of the edge I believe.

If I was using that razor, I'd add 2 shims between the blade and cap and expect a very smooth shave. Just remember, when you do make the shims, use a rigid pair of scissors that will let you cut the smallest bit of edge off as possible. You want the shim as wide as it can be so only cut the honed edge off and try not to warp the blade as you cut it. Or I suppose you could put the blade in a vise and file the edge down.

For what it's worth, there was a guy here that claimed he got good results out of cutting his shim out of an old credit card. I've also seen a thread by a guy that used the lid of a sour cream container.

So there's plenty of interesting stock out there to experiment, if we want. But then we've got to not just size the shim, but punch some holes.

I'm thinking the old credit card may work, due to it's relative stiffness. It sure would open up the blade gap, if that's what one wants!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

My new Stirling badger arrived today. It has the fan shape, a shape new to me. I'll review it soon. I noticed zero bad smell to the brush.

The Stirling order included a boar brush which looks, on first glance, like it will be a great brush. I'll begin the break in process today, but the brush looks and feels like it could be used without any break in process. The brush doesn't smell bad either.

(I've not gotten this boar or the badger wet yet though.)

The delivery guys also brought my beautiful, very heavy, extremely heavy, fine looking, very nice, new SS Colonial General razor, but I have no blades yet.

But, wait, that's not all...

There were two vegan shaving soaps from an artisan soap maker in England. I will review one soon.

Plus, a vintage Gillette NEW SC is in hand. My first SC, the one I shave with, is very nice, but this new one, at the same price, really is quite spectacular by comparison. It may live in the office cabinet behind glass.

What a haul!

This stuff wasn't ordered all at the same time, but decided to show up en masse.

I have only a few items in transit, and there is very little I am even considering buying for a while. I have plenty to keep me off the streets, and better quit spending or I'll be on the street (or in the doghouse).

Part of the above paragraph is subject to change. Part is not. Guess which is which for an entry into my Santa Claus's Beard Naming Contest.

My wife is aware of some, maybe all, of my razors, and my quest to find the perfect razor. She mentioned that when I do, I can sell everything else on ebay.

It wasn't a command.

She did figure out one day, years ago, the difference between one gun and another, and asked me to write down a list of every gun I owned. It's not like I have a huge collection either. I complied, and I was afraid to buy another gun for several years. Now, of course, I have two or three new shotguns. You know, for home defense!

How would she know if I've reached razor nirvana? Razors aren't as big, or expensive, as guns, too, so there's that. Still...

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Cal]

What a haul!

But no pics!

Remember the old saying... "Pics or it didn't happen!"