- Thread starter
- #21
I'm curious if that works for old canvas and not just new canvas. I guess I will have to try and find out.
Canvas strop question
- Thread starter Suhrim21
- Start date
Yes, this is the more reasoned approach. Lighter fluid is the last thing I would use, but to each their own....
- Thread starter
- #23
I wouldn't use anything that will likely destroy it. Thank you for ur help
This is priceless info, thank you for posting it up. I have a new Kanayama 77 inbound...
No problem, I have heard that this can cause the canvas to shrink abit, just to keep that in mind.
Good to know!
Yes if you soak the canvas you have to dry it with some weights and hanging otherwise it will shrink. I have seen up to an inch of difference.
Talking about the canvas. What I have noticed is the new kanayamas have a very stiff canvas component but the vintage ones are nice and supple. NOS of course not used.
I wonder why is that, maybe something changed in the production?
Talking about the canvas. What I have noticed is the new kanayamas have a very stiff canvas component but the vintage ones are nice and supple. NOS of course not used.
I wonder why is that, maybe something changed in the production?
Ok, thank you for the info. I can clip some weight to it while it dries. I think I’ll wash the canvas in the machine a few times before applying the methodology outlined by @MO1, then let it hang while weighted for a couple of days. A fair bit of work, considering how much it costs though!
You are welcome. I usually soak the canvas in a plastic bin with some liquid washing machine soap. Then I go to water with white vinegar to make sure all the soap is gone. Then dry. Some come out soft as a sock others not so much but definitely softer than before.
Hope this one ends up at an appropriate texture... I ordered the Kanayama because it seemed highly regarded...
The leather is superb. No question about that. The new canvas needs some fiddling but you won't be disappointed with the leather.
It is what it is! I'll follow the advice given, and will hopefully end up with a linen side that's as good as the leather... And hey, what's fun without a little work beforehand?!
Luke
Luke
So, I know this is an old thread, but I’m going to throw in my two cents…
What I do with a vintage, dirty canvas/linen strop is this:
1) After disassembling and separating from the leather portion, cover the linen with a layer of thick shaving lather. I’m currently using Marvy’s, but I think Cello would work just as well.
2) Work the lather over the surface of the strop with the palm of the hand, tooth brush, or a pumice stone. Whichever seems appropriate depending on the condition of the strop.
3) Using a pair of hair cutting shears (scissors), use the backside (not the cutting edge) of one of the blades of the open shears placed firmly as against the surface of the strop and scrape down the strop from top to bottom. The shears blade should span across the width of the strop. You should be able to scrape off a thick layer of the lather with crud.
What I do with a vintage, dirty canvas/linen strop is this:
1) After disassembling and separating from the leather portion, cover the linen with a layer of thick shaving lather. I’m currently using Marvy’s, but I think Cello would work just as well.
2) Work the lather over the surface of the strop with the palm of the hand, tooth brush, or a pumice stone. Whichever seems appropriate depending on the condition of the strop.
3) Using a pair of hair cutting shears (scissors), use the backside (not the cutting edge) of one of the blades of the open shears placed firmly as against the surface of the strop and scrape down the strop from top to bottom. The shears blade should span across the width of the strop. You should be able to scrape off a thick layer of the lather with crud.
Sorry, was interrupted....
Continuing from #3: you are using the back of the shears as a squeegee. You may repeat this process as many times as you wish, or until you are satisfied that you have removed as much dirt as possible.
4) Wipe down the strop surface with a damp rag and then a dry rag to remove excess moisture.
5) Moisten a cotton pad with isopropyl alcohol and wipe down the surface of the strop. This will remove even more dirt. Do this several times.
So far the purpose of all of this is to remove as much surface dirt as possible without soaking and expanding the fibers of the canvas/linen. I’ll post a before and after of a Red Imp that I just cleaned.
5) Once you are satisfied with the strop, you can finish with a glass bottle then let the strop dry completely on a flat surface. If you are still concerned about potential “bugs” remaining, a light application of disinfectant spray should be sufficient.
Continuing from #3: you are using the back of the shears as a squeegee. You may repeat this process as many times as you wish, or until you are satisfied that you have removed as much dirt as possible.
4) Wipe down the strop surface with a damp rag and then a dry rag to remove excess moisture.
5) Moisten a cotton pad with isopropyl alcohol and wipe down the surface of the strop. This will remove even more dirt. Do this several times.
So far the purpose of all of this is to remove as much surface dirt as possible without soaking and expanding the fibers of the canvas/linen. I’ll post a before and after of a Red Imp that I just cleaned.
5) Once you are satisfied with the strop, you can finish with a glass bottle then let the strop dry completely on a flat surface. If you are still concerned about potential “bugs” remaining, a light application of disinfectant spray should be sufficient.
This is a Red Imp that I worked on. It’s probably the filthiest strop I’ve ever dealt with as it was heavily soiled. I applied the above technique and removed a majority of the grime. Unfortunately it seems that whatever was used to print on the strop was slightly dissolved in the process. I tried my best to preserve the logo. Also, the linen seems to have had a red tint applied to it (it's on both sides, as well as under the swivel) which darkened somewhat during the cleaning process. Overall I'm pleased with the results. It may further improve with additional cleanings.
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Any cleaning of a vintage line will improve its performance.
I have washed/cleaned many old linen and flax firehose. The trick is to soak the linen overnight in a mild soapy solution.
I use Woolite and water in a 5-gallon bucket. Use a mild soap, nothing harsh, no beach or chemicals like Oxi Clean. Wash as if it were a linen garment.
If the strop is Flax linen, be careful handling it because flax will swell, and the strop become hard. You can crack the fibers if you are not careful.
It usually takes 3-4 cleaning and soaking cycles to get a vintage strop clean, because dirt and shaving soap become embedded in the fibers and the weave. After soaking scrub with a stiff brush, I use a fingernail brush.
Then soak in clean water with ½ cup of vinegar to remove the soap, all day or overnight. It is important to soak in clean water to remove as much soap and dirt as possible.
Pick up a rolling pin from the dollar store or thrift store, hang the pin from above with paracord and gently roll the strop after it has been removed from the washing or rinsing solution. Flax will soften up after 15-20 minutes. Flax will be rock hard when it first comes out of the water.
Go easy when rolling slowly bending the strop on the rolling pin, bend a little more each time. If you feel the fibers cracking /breaking, ease up on the bending and do more rolling. Eventually you will be able to bend the strop in a U around the roller in both directions.
Rolling the linen will relax the fibers and allow the dirt and soap to be released from the fibers. It will take repeated soaking, washing, and rinsing cycles to get a strop completely clean. It is clean when your rinse soaking water is clear.
Rolling will make your strop soft and smooth and will minimize shrinking. It is a lot of work but worth the effort. Stropping on linen is very under rated, as is stropping on clean linen and leather.
I see many razors come in for honing with edge chipped and deep random stria from stropping on dirty strops. Airborne dust is much larger that the finest paste.
There are a couple posts on how I clean and roll linen with photos of my roller set up. I have 2 hooks attached to my garage door that I hang my pin from when the door is open.
Rolling will make your strop soft and smooth and will minimize shrinking. It is a lot of work but worth the effort. Stropping on linen is very under rated, as is stropping on clean linen and clean hydrated leather.
I have washed/cleaned many old linen and flax firehose. The trick is to soak the linen overnight in a mild soapy solution.
I use Woolite and water in a 5-gallon bucket. Use a mild soap, nothing harsh, no beach or chemicals like Oxi Clean. Wash as if it were a linen garment.
If the strop is Flax linen, be careful handling it because flax will swell, and the strop become hard. You can crack the fibers if you are not careful.
It usually takes 3-4 cleaning and soaking cycles to get a vintage strop clean, because dirt and shaving soap become embedded in the fibers and the weave. After soaking scrub with a stiff brush, I use a fingernail brush.
Then soak in clean water with ½ cup of vinegar to remove the soap, all day or overnight. It is important to soak in clean water to remove as much soap and dirt as possible.
Pick up a rolling pin from the dollar store or thrift store, hang the pin from above with paracord and gently roll the strop after it has been removed from the washing or rinsing solution. Flax will soften up after 15-20 minutes. Flax will be rock hard when it first comes out of the water.
Go easy when rolling slowly bending the strop on the rolling pin, bend a little more each time. If you feel the fibers cracking /breaking, ease up on the bending and do more rolling. Eventually you will be able to bend the strop in a U around the roller in both directions.
Rolling the linen will relax the fibers and allow the dirt and soap to be released from the fibers. It will take repeated soaking, washing, and rinsing cycles to get a strop completely clean. It is clean when your rinse soaking water is clear.
Rolling will make your strop soft and smooth and will minimize shrinking. It is a lot of work but worth the effort. Stropping on linen is very under rated, as is stropping on clean linen and leather.
I see many razors come in for honing with edge chipped and deep random stria from stropping on dirty strops. Airborne dust is much larger that the finest paste.
There are a couple posts on how I clean and roll linen with photos of my roller set up. I have 2 hooks attached to my garage door that I hang my pin from when the door is open.
Rolling will make your strop soft and smooth and will minimize shrinking. It is a lot of work but worth the effort. Stropping on linen is very under rated, as is stropping on clean linen and clean hydrated leather.
I read in A. B. Moler’s barber manual that it was important to not allow water to soak into the linen strop as this would swell the fibers and ruin the finish. I’ve also noted that many vintage linens are coated in wax. Could this be to protect against excess moisture? The method I use to clean linen strops is mostly derived from Moler. While I’m sure soaking the strop will render a more aesthetically pleasing strop, I wonder if that process also changes the way the linen strop was meant to function.
Also notice that Moler is only concerned with grit that is on the surface of the strop, and not dirt deep in the fibers of the linen.
Iwasaki's pamphlet doesn't specify submersion, but he does say to let it dry for two days after cleaning. So I think he expected the linen would be saturated.
I think as long as you are careful not to break the fibers while it's wet it shouldn't matter.
I think as long as you are careful not to break the fibers while it's wet it shouldn't matter.
