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Button Down Collar Shirts with a Suit

What did I "ask" exactly?

My original post was not intended to be an inquiry so much as a comment on the fact that it has been often said, on this forum and elsewhere, that it is essentially a faux pas--a misstep, an error in business-wear conventions, if you will--to wear a button-down collared shirt with a suit. Yet--again per my original post in this thread--as demonstrated by the clothing choices of two prominent government officials (or former official, in one case, I suppose), who were at the time of my first post, often in the news, including on TV, this is not so.

I do not disagree that the subject has no small number of nuances, and I find those nuances interesting and clearly worthy of discussion.

I care a lot about what people think--particularly, as Doc4 says, what folks on this forum think--and I also care what folks here on B&B "are told." I think it is a legitimate and valuable purpose of this Haberdashery subforum to help B&B members to make informed choices in how to dress. It is not always an easy task to figure out what one should wear. I am guessing that many B&B members come to this subforum seeking that advice or at least a broadening of their knowledge of the area to help them make these choices.

Among other things, as Miss Manners is fond of saying in various contexts "clothing serves as a symbolic way of conveying information." I think most of us, at least those of us thoughtful enough to be B&B members, want to be careful as to what we are saying symbolically. I think it was John Malloy of Dress for Success who said that if someone dresses inappropriately, they will not be thought of as intentionally doing so--even if in fact they “know the rule" and are intentionally violating it—but will be thought of as not knowing any better. I think most folks, at least participants in B&B, strive to appear to "know what they are doing." I do not think that those wishing to convey a nonchalant/causal impression, much less those wanting to be a little provocative, would be happy to find out the impression they are actually conveying is something else entirely. (Still, I think there is something to be said for the concept that one can violate “rules” so long as one is doing so intentionally. I am not advocating zealous conformity!)

Thus, I think blanket statements that button down collar should not be worn with a suit deserve to be discussed and, to my mind, rebutted. At the same time I recognize that there are some who would defend that blanket statement on various grounds, such as personal opinions that button down collar shirts do not look at good as other collar types with a suit or are too casual. Or, frankly more interesting to me, that some may think one is putting on the airs of a “prestigious upbringing,” perhaps more prestigious than one actually has, and among those who might resent such an upbringing (which kind of cuts against the too casual contention to me, but so be it).

For that matter, ironically perhaps, I think the fact that lots of folks seem to think a button down collar shirt with a suit is improper, is a reason to think about whether or not to wear one. And, I certainly think that it is something to take into account that someone you are meeting with might take offense at your attire because he thinks you are putting on airs. And it appears that geographic matters may still be a factor to be aware of. So perhaps you need to be cautious Chan Eli Whiskers!

But I also think that it is uninformed to see a photo of a top CEO or government official wearing a button down collar shirt with a suit--or Frank Sinatra--and to think “that person does not know or care how to dress, how foolish of him.”

That is my opinion and I am sticking with it! YMMV.

A scholar and a gentleman! Well said.
 
Kind of you to say, Trey. I do try.

On the other hand, it could be argued that I wrote an overly didactic screed. One could also question whether a gentleman engages in a public discussion of proper attire at all! :)
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
I think it is a legitimate and valuable purpose of this Haberdashery subforum to help B&B members to make informed choices in how to dress. It is not always an easy task to figure out what one should wear. I am guessing that many B&B members come to this subforum seeking that advice or at least a broadening of their knowledge of the area to help them make these choices.

Indeed.

I like to think that we all come to B&B out of a desire to make ourselves better. We gain knowledge, improve our daily habits, and pick up a few tips here and there along the way. Is a man morally inferior because he willingly shaves with a can of foam and cartridge razor from Gillette ... er, from Schick? Of course not. Will he get a better shave with an old-timey DE and soap-and-brush? Most likely. Even better with a vintage straight razor well-honed? Yeah. It's just one little way he can make is life a little better and more enjoyable. And if it's not for him and he wants to go back to the cart and goo ... no problem.

I've learned lots here about shaving, and upped my game a lot. I've learned about Japanese kitchen knives and have some great ones. I've got lots of great advice about fountain pens and ink. Ditto lots of other gentlemanly pursuits. Ditto clothing.

I usually find myself most admiring the B&B members who come to the forum with the attitude of "I want to learn something from my visit to B&B today, and hopefully I can help other guys learn too ... let's all be smarter from our interactions here today".

I think it was John Malloy of Dress for Success who said that if someone dresses inappropriately, they will not be thought of as intentionally doing so--even if in fact they “know the rule" and are intentionally violating it—but will be thought of as not knowing any better. I think most folks, at least participants in B&B, strive to appear to "know what they are doing."


Skip ahead to 15'15" right near the end for the key message. We need each other; we've got to learn to respect each other. And through manners, dress and good breath we allow people to receive our best energy by showing up in a way that is digestible to them.

For that matter, ironically perhaps, I think the fact that lots of folks seem to think a button down collar shirt with a suit is improper, is a reason to think about whether or not to wear one.

I like to wear brown shoes with a suit.

Most suits, I'd prefer to wear brown (or tan or oxblood) shoes rather than black. I think it looks better. BUT ... I realise that there are some people out there who hold to an idea that black shoes are more appropriate and more formal.

So I don't wear those brown shoes in certain circumstances ... like interviews for example.

But I also think that it is uninformed to see a photo of a top CEO or government official wearing a button down collar shirt with a suit--or Frank Sinatra--and to think “that person does not know or care how to dress, how foolish of him.”

Equally, it can be overly reductive to see a photo of Sinatra or whomever and say "oh, he's wearing that so it MUST be stylish."

That is my opinion and I am sticking with it!

My great-uncle would say "that's my opinion and I'm stuck with it".

One could also question whether a gentleman engages in a public discussion of proper attire at all!
 
All very well said and I agree.

I like to wear brown shoes with a suit.

That is, of course, because you were born, raised, and live in Italy. Or is it that your Boston Brahmin background?

BUT ... I realise that there are some people out there[--like The Knize and Frank Zappa :)--] who hold to an idea that black shoes are more appropriate and more formal.

That is, of course, because Frank Zappa and I are British and hold tightly to traditional British sartorial conventions. And the rule is black in the city, brown in the country, the latter being necessarily less formal.

You, I, and FZ are, of course, none of those things. I admit that for a long time, I thought black shoes were more appropriate and more formal and should be worn with a suit, at least with a blue or gray suit. And I thought this was something of an established convention in the States. But my current analysis would be the same as yours. However, another reason for me not to wear brown shoes to an important meeting in Boston might be that I would not want anyone thinking I was pretending to have Boston upper class roots. Although I do not think I would be taking much of a chance there!

Fun stuff.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
However, another reason for me not to wear brown shoes to an important meeting in Boston might be that I would not want anyone thinking I was pretending to have Boston upper class roots. Although I do not think I would be taking much of a chance there!

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It is hard to tell from the on-line photos but it looks to me as if, for public appearances, both Barr and Mueller wear plain, never striped, suits in various shades of gray or navy. I suspect this is thought out and intentional and the thought being this is "what we want [/expect] from people doing his job(s)."

Many years ago, I was stationed in Quantico, VA. One of my old lieutenants had gotten out of the Marines and had joined the FBI. On free weekends at the academy, he'd come over and have dinner with us. I remember that they had a class about what kinds of suits to wear, and I think they were encouraged to head off to Brooks Brothers (which had yet to become a shopping mall staple) and buy from a pretty limited set of conservative colors. Also, their instructors served as a kind of model for what was appropriate, and he said that they were virtually interchangeable with one another. Basically, they look like suits to us, but they were uniforms to them.

I also remember heading to Brooks Brothers in DC when I was a newly-minted lieutenant, to fill out my list of necessary civilian clothes. I went up with a friend of mine from an old Southern family, who had just been commissioned out of VMI. He was aghast at the very conservative, Mueller-like things that I picked. After bemoaning the poor taste in clothing of the average Yankee, he got me to add things like pink and yellow shirts to my shopping bag. I'm not sure what I'd call that--dashing conservative? Even so, it strikes me as strange when officials get too casual. The current green ties in vogue among politicians look awful.

Finally, it's nice to remember the days of the fashionable double breasted suit. I had a couple of sharp ones in the 80s. Of course, youth have no respect for such things. Whenever one of my kids comes across a photo where I'm wearing one, they ask me if I was a back-up singer for Bowie's "Let's Dance" tour.
 
After bemoaning the poor taste in clothing of the average Yankee, he got me to add things like pink and yellow shirts to my shopping bag. I'm not sure what I'd call that--dashing conservative?

That sounds preppy to me, and would fit for party on Martha's Vineyard or at the Greenbrier. Not uniquely Southern. I am not confident on when and where a pink or a yellow shirt was okay with a shirt with a business suit. Seems like I used to wear both and now rarely wear either, although pink looks good to me. Now, a seersucker suit and some white bucks might be more specifically Southern. Interesting stuff to hear about, though.

The current green ties in vogue among politicians look awful.

I had not noticed. I need to keep up better. Remember in the late 70s early 80s when everyone started wearing yellow ties?

When Obama was running for President, he and lots of other candidates seemed to like light blue ties. I do not see those as often these days.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
One of my old lieutenants had gotten out of the Marines and had joined the FBI. On free weekends at the academy, he'd come over and have dinner with us. I remember that they had a class about what kinds of suits to wear, and I think they were encouraged to head off to Brooks Brothers (which had yet to become a shopping mall staple) and buy from a pretty limited set of conservative colors. Also, their instructors served as a kind of model for what was appropriate, and he said that they were virtually interchangeable with one another. Basically, they look like suits to us, but they were uniforms to them.

 
That would actually be "The Serious Moonlight" tour, but a very impressive cultural reference for someone not even born in 1980, I assume!

"Put on your red shoes and dance the blues"
 
@The Nid Hog : your kids sound like my son! The smart Alec.

Yeah, they are not impressed by my wit.

That would actually be "The Serious Moonlight" tour, but a very impressive cultural reference for someone not even born in 1980, I assume!

"Put on your red shoes and dance the blues"

You're right! The Serious Moonlight Tour.

At a certain point, my daughters commandeered my old vinyl. It's kind of strange that they listen to things that I bought new as if they're doing an archaeology project, but they're serious fans. They've repaid the favor by making me stay current about what they're listening to and reading.
 
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