I have the hardest time unpinning Bakelite scales without breaking them. The pins seem to be so tight in them as if the material has shrunk. I've tried filing the tops and snipping with flush cutters adding a little oil ect. But every time I try to work the pin out no matter how careful I try to be they snap. Does anyone have a good trick for these?
Bakelite scale questions.
- Thread starter The Mick
- Start date
They are tough, I drill them out very slowly. The scales melt very easily.
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- #3
I don't have a proper drill press just the dremel drill press type set up. I've tried drilling pins with no success.
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- #4
I found some videos and they made x cuts with the dremel first. I don't know why I didn't think of that I was filing it flat on top and making an indentation with a punch. And was still having problems with the bit drifting because it just isn't deep enough.
Drilling out would be very difficult without a press.
I flatten out the pin with a file first then drill out
I flatten out the pin with a file first then drill out
Mick,
I have the exact same dremel drill press set up. I use about 4 heavy rubber bands to steady the dremel, but it's going to drift. Even using the doc's suggestion of flattening the pin won't stop all the drifting.
What has helped is the following:
Align the scales on the base so that the pin/scales are as flat as possible. You don't want the razor turning over as you apply pressure. Sometimes I use leftover pieces of wood or acrylic as a makeshift jig.
Go VERY slow. pressure...back off...pressure...back off. Keep repeating this.
Use a spray bottle. I keep wetting the pin and drill all through the procedure. this DRAMATICALLY reduces the heat generated.
Use painters tape around the pin in case the bit slides off. This can prevent some of the scratching that may occur.
Finally, at some point you'll be drilling a hole in the pin. This is where I used to inevitably screw up. Don't rush this part. Keep spraying water and be prepared to turn off the dremel if the pin pops out.
It can be done, but it would be lying to tell you I now have 100% success. More like 80 to 90%. That success is inversely related to the desirability of the scales.
I have the exact same dremel drill press set up. I use about 4 heavy rubber bands to steady the dremel, but it's going to drift. Even using the doc's suggestion of flattening the pin won't stop all the drifting.
What has helped is the following:
Align the scales on the base so that the pin/scales are as flat as possible. You don't want the razor turning over as you apply pressure. Sometimes I use leftover pieces of wood or acrylic as a makeshift jig.
Go VERY slow. pressure...back off...pressure...back off. Keep repeating this.
Use a spray bottle. I keep wetting the pin and drill all through the procedure. this DRAMATICALLY reduces the heat generated.
Use painters tape around the pin in case the bit slides off. This can prevent some of the scratching that may occur.
Finally, at some point you'll be drilling a hole in the pin. This is where I used to inevitably screw up. Don't rush this part. Keep spraying water and be prepared to turn off the dremel if the pin pops out.
It can be done, but it would be lying to tell you I now have 100% success. More like 80 to 90%. That success is inversely related to the desirability of the scales.
Forgot to add, to keep the wandering to a minimum chuck to bit to only about 1/4 inch is protruding.
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- #8
Thanks I'll give those suggestions a shot on my W. H. Morley & Sons that I have coming up next.
First do not push the pin through, lift each scale off the pin instead. It’s a crooked pin that breaks the scale when you push it through.
Make a mask with a piece of sheet metal the length of the scale and a bit wider. Drill a hole the size of the washer. Mask the scale with tape and place the mask over the pin. File flat as suggested and mark the center with a punch. Then drill as Doc suggested.
The mask may save you… when it slips.
Rest the razor on a piece of foam from a crafts store, 4mm works great to keep the razor from dancing on the drill press table and protects the scale.
Make a mask with a piece of sheet metal the length of the scale and a bit wider. Drill a hole the size of the washer. Mask the scale with tape and place the mask over the pin. File flat as suggested and mark the center with a punch. Then drill as Doc suggested.
The mask may save you… when it slips.
Rest the razor on a piece of foam from a crafts store, 4mm works great to keep the razor from dancing on the drill press table and protects the scale.
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- #10
The problem I having drilling is the drill bits don't seem to want to cut into the pin. I'm just using split tips from Lowe's. They are brand new and I'm going as slow as the Dremel will go which I know is still much faster than a drill press can slow down to. It just gets hot and very little cutting happens. Is there a better style of drill bit I should be getting? I should know this as I used to work with drill presses but we didn't do anything this small or precise. Though we drilled brass and bronze all the time.
It may be a steel pin. They are hard, file as much off aspossible using the metal mask and use the smallest bit possible choke up on thebit as suggested with only ¼ to ½ in. protruding. Use a center punch, go slowand use a drop of oil when drilling. I buy 1/6 in and smaller bits in 10 packs,toss em when the get dull.
You can do it with a hand drill better than a Dremel. CheckThrift stores and Swap meets for inexpensive still good tools. I bought somenice buffers for just a few dollars at swap meets.
You can do it with a hand drill better than a Dremel. CheckThrift stores and Swap meets for inexpensive still good tools. I bought somenice buffers for just a few dollars at swap meets.
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- #12
Thanks, I've tried it several times and they were all brass. Maybe HHS bits would work better. I have a nice hand drill I just never felt confident enough to do it without damaging the scales as I shake a bit. I did unpin a W.H. Morley & sons the other day and same thing but it wasn't tight or bent so it came out fine with flush cutters and a punch.
The crud can bind in the hole and freeze the pin.
The brass oxidizes and that surface will give the crud something to grab - like sanding a surface before gluing it.
Lastly - cutting flush can still de-form the pin out of round - cut 1/2 way in one direction and then move 90° to finish the cut - seems to help.
I usually cut both sides of the pin flush, then GENTLY wiggle them free with the business-end of a small screwdriver; pushing up from the pin flexes the scale less.
I've drilled them also - good bits are essential. Chucking them high to reduce wiggle is important too.
Another thing is that sometimes, there's an existing crack that's there before you even start. You may not see it, and it may give no matter what you do.
The brass oxidizes and that surface will give the crud something to grab - like sanding a surface before gluing it.
Lastly - cutting flush can still de-form the pin out of round - cut 1/2 way in one direction and then move 90° to finish the cut - seems to help.
I usually cut both sides of the pin flush, then GENTLY wiggle them free with the business-end of a small screwdriver; pushing up from the pin flexes the scale less.
I've drilled them also - good bits are essential. Chucking them high to reduce wiggle is important too.
Another thing is that sometimes, there's an existing crack that's there before you even start. You may not see it, and it may give no matter what you do.
This is a great tip.
