Am I doomed to custom tailored shirts?

[KodiakAttack]

Let me first start off by saying I was swayed by the Style Doc's post regarding the haberdashery forum, and how it's needing some thread love.
I am not embarrassed to ask style questions, more-so not entirely sure what to ask.

So let's see if this works, shall we?

I'm 5'11, medium build, and weigh around 160 (I think?). Nothing fits properly. Why you ask? Because I wear 32x30 pants. I think a person standing 5'11 should technically be wearing x33 or longer. So, this is where my problem comes in-

None of my shirts fit me properly, they're short by a few inches. None are long enough to cover my freakishly long torso! I don't know any of my other measurements, all I know is that when I go out to buy clothing its always a hassle. I like fitted clothing, nothing loose and baggy. However, the shirts that tend to fit my lengthy torso best are XL's, and at that point im swimming in them. The shirts that DO fit me well, can never be dried otherwise they will shrink up and be unwearable. I've had to donate plenty of perfectly good t-shirts in this manner.

Does anyone have any advice? I'm looking to change up my wardrobe as it is, more along the button-up collared shirt style. Im starting to wear more bow-ties lately and enjoy dressing up casually. I spend all day in a classic barbershop and that's the style I enjoy.

Also, any pants/shoe brand suggestions would be great too, matching that particular style. I'm not opposed to suspenders and vests either.

 

[intotheforge]

Your build sounds similar to mine. I am very interested in the responses you get.

For shirts, I wear a 33 in the arms and a 37 in the torso. So what I have to do is buy a 17 neck size 37 and then have the sleeves shortened by 4 inches. At mens wearhouse, I usually spend well over a hundred dollars for two shirts out the door. Is that the sort of customizing you have been doing or are you having the shirts constructed from scratch to your measurements?

 

[Doc4]

I'm 5'11, medium build, and weigh around 160 (I think?). Nothing fits properly. Why you ask? Because (of) my freakishly long torso!

Does anyone have any advice? I'm looking to change up my wardrobe as it is, more along the button-up collared shirt style. Im starting to wear more bow-ties lately and enjoy dressing up casually. I spend all day in a classic barbershop and that's the style I enjoy.

I'm not opposed to suspenders and vests either.

Think not so much in terms of shirts, but a pants & vest combo:

The key here is to go monochromatic ... same colour top and bottom ... to conceal how low your waist is. Ideally, a custom-made set would have trousers with a high waist ... more traditionally-high up near the belly button, rather than low on the hips. Suspenders will work well if you like.

Make sure the vest is long enough. A lot of "modern takes" on this look, apart from being really tight, have low-rise pants and a vest that barely makes it down to the pants ... so you can see the dude's belt buckle and (if he moves at all) a line of shirt sticking out between pants and vest. You do not want this: it will remind everyone how short your legs are (and it looks fugly in general.)

Avoid that.

Try more for this:

 

[Doc4]

For shirts, I wear a 33 in the arms and a 37 in the torso. So what I have to do is buy a 17 neck size 37 and then have the sleeves shortened by 4 inches. At mens wearhouse, I usually spend well over a hundred dollars for two shirts out the door. Is that the sort of customizing you have been doing or are you having the shirts constructed from scratch to your measurements?

For that kind of money, you can get better shirts online, custom made. You just have to find the right place.

 

[KodiakAttack]

The key here is to go monochromatic ... same colour top and bottom ... to conceal how low your waist is.

I'm not really trying to conceal anything, I'm not self conscious about how I look. It's not noticeable unless im wearing a shirt that is too short. In fact it took SWMBO a few years to notice!
The tough part is finding that shirt that fits properly.
The first two images are exactly the style im looking to transition to. Only I think Beckam wears it better than I ever could.

 

[intotheforge]

For that kind of money, you can get better shirts online, custom made. You just have to find the right place.

What's the right place?

 

[intotheforge]

http://www.nattyshirts.com/custom-made-shirts.php

Well I just spent too long setting up a profile and filling in my size data on that website. At this point, I'm not sure if/when I will order one to test. What is the ideal order quantity to minimize the impact of shipping? Any discounts?

 

[Mad Man]

+1 on bespoke shirts. I'm the opposite - short torso, looong legs and an even 6' and about 220lbs. Shirts that fit my shoulders billow around te waist and cuffs/sleeves are way short.

I was lucky and found Sam's Tailors in HK on a trip OS a few years ago. They have my specs and I just mail orders. Every 2 years I see a tailor, pay them $20 cash for a quick re-measure and send the numbers to Sams.

 

[rushchairman]

before entering the big bux world of bespoke shirts, i'd try some places like H&M, American Apparel, Topman, Urban Outfitters etc. They cater to guys with
slighter builds and i've had success with all of them - and i'm a similar build to you - 6'2" / 32x32. torso city.

 

[xXClockwork]

I have really enjoyed my shirts from Natty. I wear a 14.75/~36. I had to go the custom route. No OTR shirts fit me. Their shirts are super inexpensive, but I have felt the quality to be pretty good.

 

[Doc4]

I'm not really trying to conceal anything, I'm not self conscious about how I look. It's not noticeable unless im wearing a shirt that is too short. In fact it took SWMBO a few years to notice!
The tough part is finding that shirt that fits properly.
The first two images are exactly the style im looking to transition to. Only I think Beckam wears it better than I ever could.

Just make sure that the vest and trousers overlap, so there's no "shirt belt" visible when you start moving around.

Mainly, my point is that higher-waisted trousers will make "normal" shirts fit you better ... no need to find longer shirts if the pants come up higher.

http://www.nattyshirts.com/custom-made-shirts.php

We got some spammers from Nattyshirts a little while ago, and some of our members, IIRC, had a darned hard time sorting out their orders from them & trying to get shirts that fit properly.

I'd look elsewhere.

 

[kehern]

Try looking for a very modern cut or a slim fit cut. These shirts are usually longer than average, while also being a bit closer fitting (needed for your build).

I have a sort of similar problem, I'm very skinny (6'1" 135lbs) with fairly long limbs. Impossible for me to find a close enough cut shirt that also is long enough to cover my arms. As of recent, due to the current trend with clothing having a tighter fit (skinny jeans etc) I've found more and more collared shirts, that are size S to be fairly long and actually fit me.

 

[KodiakAttack]

What brands or shops should I keep my eye out for this type of clothing in my particular build? I guess my REAL first step should get my measurements from a taylor, that way it might be easier to figure out what to look for.

 

[intotheforge]

You can do like I have done and go to one of the better mens chains. Have them taylor one of their off the rack items. They should also be able to measure you.

Note that Jose Banks advertises an additional button on their shirts for people like us. However, that additional button is still not enough for me. It may be for you though.