Am I doing something wrong (what is 'normal' wear and tear)?

[musicman1951]

But the main thing IMO, as has been mentioned, is to get a brush stand.

There is actually no science to support this view. There are quite a few threads (search "brush stand" if you're really interested), and the consensus is always that the stand adds nothing to the longevity of the brush (unless you're hanging a dripping wet brush - which would be pretty crazy). The water evaporates through capillary action, regardless of stand or shelf.

But some people like the way a stand looks, so there is nothing wrong with spending more money than you need to - this is B&B!

 

[Macfrommichigan]

Amen, Brother.

 

[ScottChapin]

There is actually no science to support this view. There are quite a few threads (search "brush stand" if you're really interested), and the consensus is always that the stand adds nothing to the longevity of the brush (unless you're hanging a dripping wet brush - which would be pretty crazy). The water evaporates through capillary action, regardless of stand or shelf.

But some people like the way a stand looks, so there is nothing wrong with spending more money than you need to - this is B&B!

I don’t think it’s as simple as that . Mud puddles exist for days. Yes, a brush will eventually dry out from capillary action, but if there’s a gravity assist, it would surely happen quicker.

My thought is that you want the moisture clear of the knot. The hairs themselves could remain perpetually wet with no adverse affect. It’s soaking the glue that I would think is harmful. Letting gravity assist in pulling the moisture out of the knot would be a good thing.


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[Esox]

Oh geez, y'all are the biggest bunch of enablers, haha! I guess it's time to start the search...

Have a look at Yaqi brushes. You get a lot for your money.

Heres my Silvertip: Yaqi 24mm Silvertip - A Review

Maseto Shaving also has some very nice brushes. Well worth looking into.

 

[bberg100]

I don’t think it’s as simple as that . Mud puddles exist for days. Yes, a brush will eventually dry out from capillary action, but if there’s a gravity assist, it would surely happen quicker.

My thought is that you want the moisture clear of the knot. The hairs themselves could remain perpetually wet with no adverse affect. It’s soaking the glue that I would think is harmful. Letting gravity assist in pulling the moisture out of the knot would be a good thing.


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Capillary action draws as much water into the knot as to the tips. Folks have carefully weighed their brushes while drying and found no difference in dry time. Personally I have some brushes hanging, some sitting on the base. Just don't abuse your brush. Use it gently, wash it gentle, speak softly to it.

 

[ScottChapin]

Capillary action draws as much water into the knot as to the tips. Folks have carefully weighed their brushes while drying and found no difference in dry time. Personally I have some brushes hanging, some sitting on the base. Just don't abuse your brush. Use it gently, wash it gentle, speak softly to it.

I doubt they can weigh it that accurately or have precisely the same weight at the beginning of each test. The difference would be in grains.

I really think gravity has its effect. In any event, it’s not worth the worries, because they will all be well used before you’re itching to replace a brush.


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[HighSpeedSpoon]

There are many people on both sides of the brush stand argument, which I acknowledged earlier in this thread. I did not acknowledge the science behind "stands don't work" because like many, I think this science is open it to serious, good-spirited criticism, and I am not convinced by it. Regardless, I doubt we will settle any perennial argument here. At the end of the day, we all do what we believe in.

So good luck @state whichever way you go. If nothing else, at least get a second brush and rotate your brushes. These days, you can get a good brush from many sources without breaking the bank.

 

[state]

Thanks all for the great exchange, I really appreciate it! Now go visit my other thread and recommend a new brush for me--you could win a prize!

 

[ZigZiglar]

Buy 'em all!! ...oops, wrong thread. Carry on.

 

[Tatuued1]

Only suggestion that I have is to be careful on the stand you buy because I got a costly one and could fit one of my 4 brushes in it= I need to buy 4 more that fit it.....

 

[HighSpeedSpoon]

Only suggestion that I have is to be careful on the stand you buy because I got a costly one and could fit one of my 4 brushes in it= I need to buy 4 more that fit it.....

This is an excellent point. You often won't have enough information to know how well a given brush will fit in a given stand, if at all. Other things being equal, I prefer to get the brush first, measure the brush where it will fit in the stand (usually the waist or sometimes where the knot meets the handle), and then get a stand that fits.

 

[Cal]

It's hard to tell from the photos, but it seems to me that there is a slight 'hole' forming near the middle. I do lose hairs on the brush as well, probably 1-2 every few weeks.

Just out of interest state, do you get this (in the video) effect with your brush?

 

[Seveneighth]

Hi all,

I'm a pretty minimal wetshaver. I've had this Crabtree & Evelyn Pure Badger as my one and only brush since I started wetshaving sometime in summer 2010. It's hard to tell from the photos, but it seems to me that there is a slight 'hole' forming near the middle. I do lose hairs on the brush as well, probably 1-2 every few weeks. I know that higher-end brushes can last decades, so I just wanted to generally know if I'm being too rough, or if this type of wear is expected in a relatively cheaper brush (and really I'm probably wanting justification to buy a new brush, hehe).

I only shave twice a week generally and I don't have a stand to hang my brush, though I do gently squeeze and shake it out. I face lather exclusively and have a course beard, if that makes any difference.

Loft collapse like this over time is considered due to using a circular motion when lathering. I say "considered" because this always sets off a heated debate, which I wouldn't want to do here. Simpson actually say that using a brush in this way invalidates the warranty on their brushes. The twisting puts too much pressure on the hairs in the centre of the knot and they break.

 

[state]

@Cal Just tried this out, and I don't have any residue, so I hope that means I'm rinsing thoroughly.

@Seveneighth I do use a circular motion when lathering! I didn't know this was a bad thing, wow! Even with facelathering I should just paint? To be clear, I don't rotate the handle while working up a lather, but I definitely use a circular motion.

 

[Seveneighth]

@Cal Just tried this out, and I don't have any residue, so I hope that means I'm rinsing thoroughly.

@Seveneighth I do use a circular motion when lathering! I didn't know this was a bad thing, wow! Even with facelathering I should just paint? To be clear, I don't rotate the handle while working up a lather, but I definitely use a circular motion.

OK... Here we go...

Disclaimer ... Lots of people will disagree / say it is just a brushmakers' marketing ploy... I am just repeating what the likes of Vulfix and Simpson say and my experience with shaving brushes over 30 years and other types of brushes like sable watercolour brushes.

The other thing to bear in mind is that badger hair differs from manufacturer to manufacturer so a pure badger from one might be equivalent to a best in another. I have generally found quality is based on softness. I have a rough pure badger brush which has the texture of horse hair and which I've abused like a boar brush with no ill effect. Density of knot may also compensate for hair breakage.

Generally for best preservation of badger brushes is to load and apply with a back and forth motion, for super badger and above, apply cream to face and work up the lather there supporting the loft with first two fingers and thumb. Never compress the hairs, just use the tips.

I was taught: "Hogged soap, baited cream." - i.e. boar brushes on soap and (baited) badger brushes for cream. My understanding was that although commercial soap only became available in the 20th century, any self respecting valet would make their own cream as part of their job and use that with a badger brush.

If you are using a badger brush in a bowl, I was taught, lightly whip the cream back and forth then lifting the brush slightly run it round the sides of the bowl without the tips touching the bottom, this gently eases the soap back down to the tips, but never use a circular motion with the tips in contact.

Of course boar brushes are a totally different kettle of fish and I think more to do with speed of break-in and ongoing conditioning routine.

 

[Cal]

@Cal Just tried this out, and I don't have any residue, so I hope that means I'm rinsing thoroughly.

Yep, that's great state.

Just as an aside, if you know exactly what you're looking for in a brush (help here), you can email quite a few brush making artisans for their advice. Bernd at Shavemac immediately comes to mind as a great person to ask brush advice from, plus he can make custom brushes of virtually any size (over and above those shown in his configurator).

 

[state]

Yep, that's great state.

Just as an aside, if you know exactly what you're looking for in a brush (help here), you can email quite a few brush making artisans for their advice. Bernd at Shavemac immediately comes to mind as a great person to ask brush advice from, plus he can make custom brushes of virtually any size (over and above those shown in his configurator).

I'm heavily leaning towards a Shavemac, partially because it's German but mostly because they seem to be really well regarded. The problem is that I've only had one brush so I'm not enitirely sure what I want. I'm very open to suggestions!

 

[Cal]

The problem is that I've only had one brush so I'm not enitirely sure what I want. I'm very open to suggestions!

I'm betting, with only that information, that Bernd at Shavemac would be able to help you... and a lot more objectively than most of us shaving freaks (who don't make shaving brushes for a living).
Why not drop him an email and find out, it doesn't put you under any obligation.

 

[ScottChapin]

I'm heavily leaning towards a Shavemac, partially because it's German but mostly because they seem to be really well regarded. The problem is that I've only had one brush so I'm not enitirely sure what I want. I'm very open to suggestions!

I’m eyeballing his Americana with its bulb shaped knot. Someday.....


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[Acmemfg]

+ keep an eye on BST. Some nice brushes get sold there.

@state
BST...Surely a great source for some fine brushes at very good prices.
Also consider...nearly (if not all) badger knots come from China. It’s a safe bet Shavemac’s do also. Now if it is a true German brush you may be wanting, call Rudy Vey. It doesn’t get more German than that.......