What's new

a question about brushes with wooden handles

You are supposed to sand between coats so "sand" didn't mean "strip" to me.
I took it as scuff it up. Just to be clear.
I should be more clear: sand enough to remove all loose material and to rough up the material that is still adhering. Remove dust. Dip in varnish. Done.

And you are correct, that would not technically be "stripping".
 
Examples of wear on wooden handles - these from Zen Shaving years ago, Osage Orange and Granadillo, respectively. Extremely hard woods, with an absorptive finish, but they do require maintenance. I could refinish, but I just let them age gracefully and occasionally oil them for water resistance.

20200710_112232.jpg
 
was lathering with the secon brush i got from elite razor and the water i used to soak the brush in turned a bit brownish red, i thought maybe i hadnt cleaned the knot out well enough but when i looked at the wood part of the handle near the base of the knot it looked like the wood was bleeding, there was a reddish substance mixing with the lather on the brush. when i went to dry the brush off after my shave it left red streaks on my towl.
 
was lathering with the secon brush i got from elite razor and the water i used to soak the brush in turned a bit brownish red, i thought maybe i hadnt cleaned the knot out well enough but when i looked at the wood part of the handle near the base of the knot it looked like the wood was bleeding, there was a reddish substance mixing with the lather on the brush. when i went to dry the brush off after my shave it left red streaks on my towl.

That's strange!
I assume you didn't cut yourself and get it on the brush?
No reason for it to leach any color even if it was stained.
If in fact it was stained and the stain didn't dry before the finish was applied it could lead to adhesion problems.
 
i use distilled water and microwave it for about 30 seconds and then let the brush soak in the water while i shower, about 7 to 10 mins. our water here is extermely hard which is why i dont use it to build a lather, i only use it to rinse off my brush, then go back and rinse everything with distilled water before drying, not sure why this is happening either. i really like the color of the wood and teh brush handle, i just dont want the brush get damaged from the water which i think is happening right iknow. the wood is amboyna burl which is suppose to be pretty dense but if this is happening is it possible the wood will be damaged over time?
 
it is stablized, the top par of the handle is starting to get lighter than the base part of the handle, is there any way to correct this and if so would it be possible to seal the handle so this doesnt happen? when i spoke with bob he said he uses an oil based sealer that penetrates the wood, the kind used for boat decking, can you not add a sealent coat after you do this? why would the wood be bleeding and changing colors if it was finished with this type of finish which is used for boatt decking is suppose to guard against water.
 
it is stablized, the top par of the handle is starting to get lighter than the base part of the handle, is there any way to correct this and if so would it be possible to seal the handle so this doesnt happen? when i spoke with bob he said he uses an oil based sealer that penetrates the wood, the kind used for boat decking, can you not add a sealent coat after you do this? why would the wood be bleeding and changing colors if it was finished with this type of finish which is used for boatt decking is suppose to guard against water.

The leaching doesn't make sense. It shouldn't be leaching.
I would ask him about the color leaching and see what he says before doing anything.
 
ok, ill see what he has to say. nice looking brushes its too bad they are giving me so much trouble. i really enjoy them outside of this problem im having.
 
I imagine if he used a stain or colored sealer that "penetrates" - that is the problem.
A stabilized blank does not absorb anything to any degree so using something that penetrates will not work.
It has basically been crystalized in the process of stabilizing so it does not respond to acclimate changes in humidity or the absorption of moisture.
A film finish is what's needed.
 
I imagine if he used a stain or colored sealer that "penetrates" - that is the problem.
A stabilized blank does not absorb anything to any degree so using something that penetrates will not work.
It has basically been crystalized in the process of stabilizing so it does not respond to acclimate changes in humidity or the absorption of moisture.
A film finish is what's needed.
It must be a water based stain leaching out. What else could it be??

And why would someone use a water based stain on something that is going to get wet?


This story gets stranger and stranger!
 
im not sure as to why, im curious as to why something stronger wasnt used, if you know the wood is constantly going to be exposed to water why wouldnt you seal it better?
 
I imagine if he used a stain or colored sealer that "penetrates" - that is the problem.
A stabilized blank does not absorb anything to any degree so using something that penetrates will not work.
It has basically been crystalized in the process of stabilizing so it does not respond to acclimate changes in humidity or the absorption of moisture.
A film finish is what's needed.

That's what I was thinking.
 
I have a custom hybrid wood/resin handle (red-colored wood and blue resin). I asked the maker about whether that wood needed to be treated or protected. He responded that the wood part of the handle was impregnated with resin. The wood would not need any additional water protection. But, danish oil (or any oil) would help maintain a particular look or aesthetic.

The first couple of times I used the brush I did notice a little bit of color bleed. But it went away after a handful of shaves. The color of the wood did lighten a tiny bit but then settled to its current beautiful color.

Here's a link to a photo if you care.
 
Top Bottom