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A little discomfort for a super close shave?

I'd rather grow a beard full beard than have an uncomfortable shave. I have an elaborate shave routine to enjoy my time shaving. Why would I want to mar it just to get a minimally better shave?
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Maybe you’d benefit from less or more time between shaves?

I was shaving every other day and my nose neighbor didn’t want to go quietly into the sink. Waited an extra half a day this most recent shave and it came off so smoothly it was like it leapt away from the oncoming blade. I mean, yeah, I screwed up everything else because I rushed, but schnoz-to-upper-lip is like a Zamboni machine smoothed it out.
 
I choose comfort over closeness. It’s rare for me to go for a super close shave, although I will if I get bored and don’t have work that day sometimes. I don’t even ever do any cleanup. Whatever is left after a 3rd pass (rarely ATG) stays. I’ve always been a bit of a perfectionist, but when it comes to blood and pain, I’ll compromise.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Lots of mentioning of razors and blades but what soap is used? This is equally important. I use quality soaps and creams and make sure the lather reaches the proper creaminess. I have no tugging or discomfort.

The right soap that matches your skin and hair composition can make a difference. I can feel the difference if I let the soap sit on my face for a few seconds, compared to letting it since on my face for a few minutes. The pH level of the soap should soften the hairs and make them easier to cut.

I dont tolerate tugging. If a blade tugs for me, the coatings arent a good match for my hair composition. If they dont match properly, the hair sticks to the blade coating as its being cut. Hence, tugging.

The Drag Theory, as coined by Gillette engineers in the 1950's.

"After discovering in his test lab that shavers could not tell the difference in blade sharpness, he was responsible for break-thru research that determined that blade sharpness was not a critical factor in receiving a good shave; rather a reduction in drag by hair clinging to the blade causing pulling was needed. This Drag Theory lead to the development of coated razor blades and specifically the Organosiloxane Gel coated Super Blue Blade (1959)."
 
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The discomfort typically outlasts the uber-close shave, so I'll take "good enough" with no discomfort. I'm firmly in the same camp as @Johnnynroy.
If the discomfort caused irritation, it would be a simple decision, because then the discomfort would outlast the close shave. But in this particular case, the discomfort is only for the duration of the shave itself while the great results last for hours.
 
The right soap that matches your skin and hair composition can make a difference. I can feel the difference if I let the soap sit on my face for a few seconds, compared to letting it since on my face for a few minutes. The pH level of the soap should soften the hairs and make them easier to cut.

I dont tolerate tugging. If a blade tugs for me, the coatings arent a good match for my hair composition. If they dont match properly, the hair sticks to the blade coating as its being cut. Hence, tugging.

The Drag Theory, as coined by Gillette engineers in the 1950's.
It's an interesting theory, particularly because tugging is the real issue with regard to the discomfort I described. It can't be the soap, because I have tugging with the Mongoose and Feather Pro Super combination with various soaps, and those same soaps do not cause tugging with other combinations. It could be the blade coating, but I would be surprised if the Pro Super blades have a different coating than the Pro blades. My understanding is that the dimensions of the blade are slightly different, causing it to behave as a more aggressive blade.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
My understanding is that the dimensions of the blade are slightly different, causing it to behave as a more aggressive blade.

Yep, it could be the thickness of the blade or the hone angle(s) of the edge.

If I was testing blades in a new razor and attempting to find the ideal match between razor, blade, skin and whiskers and I exhausted all variables but the razor itself, I'd change razors and start over. Life is too short for uncomfortable shaves.

That said, I get where you're coming from and I wouldnt want to leave a good thing unless I had absolutely no choice. Other things that can lead to tugging are a weakness in technique or to much rigidity. I learned that a ways back. If the blade or razor is to rigid, theres no give in the blade. If theres no give in the blade, something has to give, so the skin will and you can feel tugging.

Try different angles, try adjusting pressure applied, alter shave direction. There has to be a middle ground somewhere. If, after I was convinced I could do nothing more to lessen the tugging, I'd have no other choice.

All of that however is coming from me and I wont tolerate tugging or any discomfort during or after a shave, at all. That fact was driven home just recently with the purchase of 100 Perma-Sharp Super blades. Two years ago I called that blade in my Gillette Regent "Nirvana". Things have changed and that combination a long way from what I'd call Nirvana today.

One thing I have learned however is that my standards of expected shave shave quality have increased vastly.
 
Yep, it could be the thickness of the blade or the hone angle(s) of the edge.

If I was testing blades in a new razor and attempting to find the ideal match between razor, blade, skin and whiskers and I exhausted all variables but the razor itself, I'd change razors and start over. Life is too short for uncomfortable shaves.

That said, I get where you're coming from and I wouldnt want to leave a good thing unless I had absolutely no choice. Other things that can lead to tugging are a weakness in technique or to much rigidity. I learned that a ways back. If the blade or razor is to rigid, theres no give in the blade. If theres no give in the blade, something has to give, so the skin will and you can feel tugging.

Try different angles, try adjusting pressure applied, alter shave direction. There has to be a middle ground somewhere. If, after I was convinced I could do nothing more to lessen the tugging, I'd have no other choice.

All of that however is coming from me and I wont tolerate tugging or any discomfort during or after a shave, at all. That fact was driven home just recently with the purchase of 100 Perma-Sharp Super blades. Two years ago I called that blade in my Gillette Regent "Nirvana". Things have changed and that combination a long way from what I'd call Nirvana today.
Perma-Sharp Super a top blade for me and underrated on the forums I think.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Perma-Sharp Super a top blade for me and underrated on the forums I think.

I've only used them, recently, in my Gillette Regent. I'm with @Steve_in_CT with hating to leave a good thing. My best DE shaves, by far, come from a Fatip Grande with a fresh Feather blade but, only for one shave. SE's I have a bit more leeway, two razors. A GEM Bullet Tip and an MMOC. Both with PTFE blades. Either easily betters any DE's I own or have used with the possible exception of my Grande and a Feather.

My Grande and a fresh Feather is very difficult to better. My Bullet Tip and a PTFE through 4 shaves matches it and is, arguably, easier on my skin. My MMOC and a PTFE for 10 shaves is my new "Nirvana" that just completely outclasses my Regent and a Perma-Sharp. Or any other blade for that matter.

I'll try a Perma-Sharp in my Grande soon.
 
Lots of mentioning of razors and blades but what soap is used? This is equally important. I use quality soaps and creams and make sure the lather reaches the proper creaminess. I have no tugging or discomfort.

Good point! I think many of us who already have our shave pretty much dialed in only think about the one (or two) variables that are being asked about in a thread, since in *our* shaves we know that the other variables will be handled to our satisfaction.

My *best* shaves are with Mike's Natural soaps, but his delivery backlog and the fact that the soaps lose fragrance and/or get a slightly stale smell as the superfatted oils age mean that I use RazoRock, Fine Acoutrements or Barrister & Mann soaps more often.

Just as important, is a pre-soak (shower or wet towel) to soften whiskers before the shave... one of the many reasons I prefer to shower shave.
 
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