1st Restore Assistance

[MVD1]

Well...first restoration I hope to complete, anyway.

I have a few brushes in various stages of disassembly, and I always have to fight my inclination to do things other than brush restorations. I don't often succeed.

Today though, I had both time and inclination! So I got out the materials and started.

I am hoping a few experts can help me. I have a 24mm boar from TGN and a 24mm cashmere from APShaveco. They are headed into two Simms Brushes as pictured.

For loft, I know about the 2:1 ratio but the boar is fairly stiff and, like the Omega 49, I do like loft. Is there any reason I shouldn't set it just past the plug about 1mm into the glue bump?

The same question for the cashmere. I like a big brush with lots of face feel. Will setting it at 55mm be a mistake? I can get it to about 50mm but it looks kinda puny at that loft. I have zero experience with synthetic brushes, so I'm very unsure of this rebuild.

Finally, I have pennies at hand for building up the shelf. Glue them one at a time or just dump them into a pool of epoxy?

I appreciate any help or idea. Pics below

 

[Big Jim]

You and I are in the minority. We like a lot of loft. Sometimes I set the knot with the glue disc just barely hidden and it is just fine. Even if you do like a stubbier brush, it is less needed with a stiff brush such as your boar.

I use coins under the knot to shim it up, however other materials can be used. Cork is often used for example. Washers can be used too. Coins help provide some heft to the finished handle, but it can be overdone. I usually use two or three. If you need to fill a hollow handle, do most of it with cork. Cut up a wine cork or buy some corks at Hobby Lobby. Use coins near the top. I like to try to use a coin that nearly matches the diameter of the base of the knot. Quarters work well for a 24mm knot. Nickles work well for a 22mm knot. Pennies work for 18mm to 20mm knots, and dimes work under a 16mm knot.

Try to find some 60 minute or longer epoxy. Five minute epoxy will set up while you are still stuffing the handle and the heat generated from that much epoxy could warp and distort the handle. Don't ask me how I know.

When using cork, I slather up the bottom of the hole, slather up the prefitted cork and slide it in so that the cavity is filled but not so much that you have epoxy spilling over the sides. If you must use 5 minute epoxy, stop there and allow it to set before going further.

When using coins, I slather up the shelf, but gently slather, apply a bit of epoxy to the bottom and side of the coin, then drop it in, then repeat as needed. Finally, apply a little epoxy to the top of the last coin and a little on the bottom of the knot disc. Enough to help the bond, but not enough to spill out and get into the hair or even to rise to the top of the handle.

I'm sure those will end up being some really nice brushes.

 

[muzichead]

Not sure about the boar but I have the Cashmere that I set in a Wild West handle some time last year. I set mine at I believe 58mm loft and it has worked really well. I use nylon washers for spaces in all my handles as the handles are usually heavy enough already and they work out just fine.

 

[MVD1]

You and I are in the minority. We like a lot of loft. Sometimes I set the knot with the glue disc just barely hidden and it is just fine. Even if you do like a stubbier brush, it is less needed with a stiff brush such as your boar.

I use coins under the knot to shim it up, however other materials can be used. Cork is often used for example. Washers can be used too. Coins help provide some heft to the finished handle, but it can be overdone. I usually use two or three. If you need to fill a hollow handle, do most of it with cork. Cut up a wine cork or buy some corks at Hobby Lobby. Use coins near the top. I like to try to use a coin that nearly matches the diameter of the base of the knot. Quarters work well for a 24mm knot. Nickles work well for a 22mm knot. Pennies work for 18mm to 20mm knots, and dimes work under a 16mm knot.

Try to find some 60 minute or longer epoxy. Five minute epoxy will set up while you are still stuffing the handle and the heat generated from that much epoxy could warp and distort the handle. Don't ask me how I know.

When using cork, I slather up the bottom of the hole, slather up the prefitted cork and slide it in so that the cavity is filled but not so much that you have epoxy spilling over the sides. If you must use 5 minute epoxy, stop there and allow it to set before going further.

When using coins, I slather up the shelf, but gently slather, apply a bit of epoxy to the bottom and side of the coin, then drop it in, then repeat as needed. Finally, apply a little epoxy to the top of the last coin and a little on the bottom of the knot disc. Enough to help the bond, but not enough to spill out and get into the hair or even to rise to the top of the handle.

I'm sure those will end up being some really nice brushes.

Not sure about the boar but I have the Cashmere that I set in a Wild West handle some time last year. I set mine at I believe 58mm loft and it has worked really well. I use nylon washers for spaces in all my handles as the handles are usually heavy enough already and they work out just fine.
View attachment 915152

Thank you for the help! Much appreciated I have a big jar of change that has been sitting around since the 90s, so I decided to use nickels and marine epoxy. The epoxy is white but luckily there were no issues...unless the glue plug isn't in contact with the nickels or sides of the handle--here's hoping!

The brushes came apart at the seam so I cleaned and lightly epoxied the threads to join the halves together. Hopefully that is ok too.

These were in decent shape already, but I am still happy with my 1st two restore projects.

 

[Big Jim]

Great. Now enjoy using them.