What's new

Some work with vintage strops

Thought I could tell about some mistake I made working with vintage strop and how it ended.

I do not recommend my methods to anyone. But it may inspire someone to work with some vintage strop put away.

Webp.net-resizeimage (5).jpg Webp.net-resizeimage (6).jpg

Hanging strop:
the canvas was very nasty. I tried sandpaper to make it look well/clean but it just got into a mess. So I cut it of, leaving a small part that could be used to put the handle back. This small canvas I washed with washing-up liquid.
The strop was badly folded, but had not developed “mini waves” from this, but a crack in the back.
I put one leather soap with a wet sponge but cleaned it away immediately with a wet sponge. I discovered this is wrong according to instructions: put on leather soap with a wet sponge, let it dry in and remove with fabric. However my method made the leather rather supple and I then ironed it with low temperature (nylon/silk setting). Then I put on leather soap with a wet sponge and let it dry in and removed it with a cloth according to instructions and repeated. Last time I picked up the strop with wet hand making the bright water grove in top, mistake!

The handle did not get nice looking with leather soap so I washed it just like the canvas and had in mind I would put on leather conditioner before it got dry. I forgot that and the leather handle looks and feels rather bad, at least I know it is clean. Not sure the handle is real leather.
End result a working strop.

The loom strops:
The one with canvas had so unclean canvas so I cut it of.
First I applied leather soap with wet sponge and removed it immediately with wet sponge.
I discovered both strops had bad leather in surface so I sanded from 120# up to 5000#. Then I used a GD spine with pressure to burnish the leather. Did not think of that the spine has a smile and the leather got a bit convex (perhaps it was before). Then hand/palm massage. Do not remember if I used some leather conditioner or not.
End result one working loom strop and one loose leather & wood part need to be put together.

Lesson learned:
Do not handle strops with wet hands.
If washing any leather remember to condition it (sparingly) before it dry, perhaps half dry and almost dry. When burnishing after sanding use smooth straight steel, no smiley.

Webp.net-resizeimage.jpg Webp.net-resizeimage (8).jpg
 
I've had about 80% success with my vintage strops. Some utube ,some forums and some experimenting. Sometimes leArning the hard way sticks. Thanks for sharing. I'm currently using a strop I made from a shark skin I scored from a boot maker
 
I've had about 80% success with my vintage strops. Some utube ,some forums and some experimenting. Sometimes leArning the hard way sticks. Thanks for sharing. I'm currently using a strop I made from a shark skin I scored from a boot maker

When manage to get a vintage strop into a working condition gives an really good feeling. But it do take some time and effort.
Never heard of strop made of shark skin, how is it to use? Picture would be appreciated.

Correction to my first post:
Above i wrote I used a wet sponge but i should written a damp sponge.
 
Will post picture soon . I just had the curiosity to see if it would work so I went to my boot guy and asked what skins were durable. I was surprised that kangaroo was so thin. Anyhow he said shark was thick. I bought an entire fin for 30 bucks. I'm currently testing it out. It's my first effort but I can say the outer side sanded down is similar to what a sharpen side of vintage strop would be. The inner side is not 100% smooth /even. So far doesn't seem to be a negative. I figure a month or two will let me know if it's a go or no go on shark skin. Hippo seemed a little too thin.he suggested American bison or lamb for a thick durable skin. We shall see.
 

David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
Will post picture soon . I just had the curiosity to see if it would work so I went to my boot guy and asked what skins were durable. I was surprised that kangaroo was so thin. Anyhow he said shark was thick. I bought an entire fin for 30 bucks. I'm currently testing it out. It's my first effort but I can say the outer side sanded down is similar to what a sharpen side of vintage strop would be. The inner side is not 100% smooth /even. So far doesn't seem to be a negative. I figure a month or two will let me know if it's a go or no go on shark skin. Hippo seemed a little too thin.he suggested American bison or lamb for a thick durable skin. We shall see.
Please do post pics of that strop when you can. That's interesting.
 
IMAG0841.jpg
IMAG0842.jpg
IMAG0843.jpg
IMAG0845.jpg
OK here it is. In first pic you can see some pits. Not 100% even surface but no skipping feel on draw.second pic is the outer.I haven't sanded down yet but plan to .this surface is closer to true even surface may end up being the side I use. for now testing inside surface to see results.I used the spine of a razor for burnishing probably not thorough enough though.third pic close up of inside surface that I use.last pic just to show I've shaved about ten times with that razor so twenty strop sessions and blade continues to shave well. This is experimenting so I can't say you need a shark skin strop as I can't say it's any better than anything I have. When I restore an edge after stone work I hit a few strops. If you use a series of strops I'd call this one after pasted and before final. Like before a slick horse. It's very close to the draw I get from my Illinois Russian . Thanks for interest.
 
I clean up a new "vintage" strop with saddle soap The re hydrate using Ballistol. This product was invented by the Germans Pre WW-1 as a gun oil & leather treatment & all I can say is it works so well on my strops & all the leather in my house. Just don't use it on rough out leather.
I know I sound like a Ballistol dealer but I ain't! Just love this stuff, always have a can or two in my shop. Some don't care for the smell but it has grown on me.
 
Top Bottom