The scratch pattern will be more parallel to the edge. I would interested in how they look when finished. Using that stroke on very low grit stones may not be the best idea IMO.
Bevel setting stroke question
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I just watched this video and that seems like a pretty hefty stroke count for setting a bevel, I used to count strokes but don't anymore I just use a cherry tomato and once it cuts easily all the way across the blade I figure it's set, I also look to ensure it's even.
His stroke count was like 70 + back and fourth with a fair amount of pressure, maybe I am missing something but I surly would not want to grind on my Fili this hard.
His stroke count was like 70 + back and fourth with a fair amount of pressure, maybe I am missing something but I surly would not want to grind on my Fili this hard.
From the "rockviper school of honing"
Our motto.... Steel meets its match!
Our motto.... Steel meets its match!
Honing a GD is not done with your pinky extended whilst making sure your ascot doesn't get wet.
You must SET THE BEVEL, which means removing alot of metal.
I use a 300 grit diamond hone to do the initial set. The biggest problem when honing is not removing enough metal and then wondering why things aren't working out so well.
You must SET THE BEVEL, which means removing alot of metal.
I use a 300 grit diamond hone to do the initial set. The biggest problem when honing is not removing enough metal and then wondering why things aren't working out so well.
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+1! The guy is honing a gd! Why would a previously honed razor need as many strokes as is needed initially? The video is for honing a gd not an heirloom. NOW same rules apply with an heirloom if it has that long to go. You have to peel metal! Always? No. Ive honed plenty of nos Japanese westerns starting on a 600 chosera. Its not that big of a deal and doesnt remove as much as you think! As long as you are not honing away indiscriminately you are fine.
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Hell, I started both my GD and my ZY out on 320 grit wet/dry. And frankly they both need to go back there as there; the GD has a slight warp that is mostly corrected but still a little there heel and toe, and the ZY's shoulder is still a little butch. But I'll probably fix them on the 1k.
What I have found so far is that the key advantage of this kind of stroke has nothing to do with pressure - this works well on a coticule with no pressure. It's consistency; for those of us with more narrow stones, this removes any possibility of error due to rocking, inequal/accidental pressure, or chamfer damage during the X-stroke. I am the first to admit I am still working on my technique there and am still inconsistent.
When you think about it, all these really are are heel-leading half-strokes. If someone asked "are heel-leading half strokes ok?" in the forums, I doubt there would be much argument.
Sure, the guy in the video is using some robust pressure right there. He's honing a factory GD66
What I have found so far is that the key advantage of this kind of stroke has nothing to do with pressure - this works well on a coticule with no pressure. It's consistency; for those of us with more narrow stones, this removes any possibility of error due to rocking, inequal/accidental pressure, or chamfer damage during the X-stroke. I am the first to admit I am still working on my technique there and am still inconsistent.
When you think about it, all these really are are heel-leading half-strokes. If someone asked "are heel-leading half strokes ok?" in the forums, I doubt there would be much argument.
Sure, the guy in the video is using some robust pressure right there. He's honing a factory GD66
What bothers me most about heel leading strokes is that the spine wear has a step in it, so if you change to a less heel leading stroke the bevel angle changes.
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Yeah that certainly seems something to watch - the heel end of the spine may need subsequent correction as it could be different if it is hanging off the hone (due to stabilizer or shoulder).
i just watched that video for second time, i think first time was at beginning of thread. it hurts to watch
hes probably a nice good guy, but the new yahk/joisie perfomance in his videos is not for me.
kind off topic, this video reminds me for some reason of a internet meme. 10 points to anyone who can guess but keep it to themselves.
hes probably a nice good guy, but the new yahk/joisie perfomance in his videos is not for me.
kind off topic, this video reminds me for some reason of a internet meme. 10 points to anyone who can guess but keep it to themselves.
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I think bluesman's concern is that if you are removing a lot of metal, the part of the spine hanging off the stone will cause a different bevel angle than the rest of the spine if you move to a less steep heel-leading angle. Which makes sense.
edit: he slipped in front of me there with the answer, yeah.
edit: he slipped in front of me there with the answer, yeah.
I hear you, but when i do straight on strokes or finish strokes in the progression I always raise the toe to get the heel and heel to get the toe anyway. I never hone flat. Just the way I do it. If you do straight laps after you will get a micro bevel. So the angle will change slightly yes. Its very slight though! LOL. Less than a piece of tape. I have some gds that Ive honed 50 to 60 times at least. I always dull on glass and start at 1k and bring up form there, no issue with the angle or strange hone wear.
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In practice the step in the spine ends up as a ramp making the heel leading angle less defined and taking away much of the benefit of having the spine define the bevel angle. This is easily correctable, but I prefer not to cause the issue in the first place.
Part of the reason that all but a few of my razors have had the stabilizer/shoulders removed or were simply made without them.
Part of the reason that all but a few of my razors have had the stabilizer/shoulders removed or were simply made without them.
So if you do an X stroke the bevel angle is changing though out the stroke. OK if your stroke is exactly the same on every stroke.
That's the idea in honing. To repeatedly do the exact same stroke one after the other. Consistent and this way every stroke counts.
I agree, but having a ramp on the spine mandates this. I have brought this ramp problem up with other people and they acted as if they had never thought about it. This thread is the perfect place to bring light to it.
Cool. i think its no issue at all, but you should address it any way you wish! I been honing this way for years and have not seen any downside to it. but thats me!
Here's a gd that has been honed more than 50 hones easily. Every honing starts with a dulling on glass and 1k and up. I have corrected the heel the first time only. This is probably a lifetime of normal use. Shaving doesn't wear them out, honing does. I don't see any anomalies or deficiencies on this razor. It's getting close to needing a heel correction soon. Maybe 10 more bevel sets. 
