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Sportcoat/Blazer help

Like switching from those overpriced cartridge razors to DE. I must have saved thousands (of old razors that is)!


Yup. You pay for quality on the front end, but it saves you money in the long run. How many of us have had a closet full of worn out economy sweaters or casual jackets that have gone hideously out of style? Get a good wardrobe of quality basics and you'll save yourself the annual trips to Goodwill.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
As Giorgio Armani put it "buy less, just buy better. In the end you'll spend less money.".

Like switching from those overpriced cartridge razors to DE. I must have saved thousands (of old razors that is)!

:001_unsur

... I never had AtracartridgeAD. Or FoaminggooAD.


(The one problem about the "buy less but buy quality" theory is ... dang it, the quality stuff is addictive, it's so good. I have several overstuffed closets that tell me I'm not too good at that 'personal spending restraint' thing ... )
 
:001_unsur

... I never had AtracartridgeAD. Or FoaminggooAD.


(The one problem about the "buy less but buy quality" theory is ... dang it, the quality stuff is addictive, it's so good. I have several overstuffed closets that tell me I'm not too good at that 'personal spending restraint' thing ... )

Start with a checklist and allow yourself to deviate from it only slightly. Once you have a professional wardrobe that works, it is a lot easier to look at that $1000 coat and say "It's nice, but does it really work with what I've got?". The answer is, surprisingly, "no" most of the time.
 
How about a suggestion for a good place to locate a tweed sport coat? I'm interested in adding one to my wardrobe, but don't know where to start.

Checked the internet for the site I mentioned before which features British tweeds. Look for Bookster and/or Tweed-Jacket. Should give you some ideas.
 
Ok, so I've ended up with a dark navy blue sport coat with gold buttons.

What range of pants colors match well? Browns? Khakis? Charcoal? Gray? Just about anything?
 
Before I forget, trendy doesn't last. Conservative always looks good and you don't have to keep buying to stay in style.

Definitely. Leave trendy to the womenfolk; one of the benefits of being a guy is a well defined timeless style, so we can buy good stuff that lasts forever.

Ok, so I've ended up with a dark navy blue sport coat with gold buttons.

What range of pants colors match well? Browns? Khakis? Charcoal? Gray? Just about anything?

Good choice. That blazer will match just about anything except black pants or shorts. I've got a Burberry blazer and have worn it with jeans, khakis, and slacks in just about any gray or earth tone.
 
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Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
Ok, so I've ended up with a dark navy blue sport coat with gold buttons.

What range of pants colors match well? Browns? Khakis? Charcoal? Gray? Just about anything?

Just about anything. Avoid black, charcoal/dark gray, and navy blue (there's nothing worse than trying to turn a blazer and some similarly-coloured pants into a "suit" ... it always looks terrible ... and the gold buttons will give it away even more.

Look at light/medium gray, tan/kahki, cream, taupe and green. Those should be great.
 
Start with a checklist and allow yourself to deviate from it only slightly. Once you have a professional wardrobe that works, it is a lot easier to look at that $1000 coat and say "It's nice, but does it really work with what I've got?". The answer is, surprisingly, "no" most of the time.

I've been trying to find this type of checklist for a little while now. Any tips on how to start a decent wardrobe?
 
What color for charcoalish or color pants? I may hit up some of the thrift stores and expand a bit.

And whats with the red sportcoats? I've never worn one but I see a ton of them here in SC.
 
I've been trying to find this type of checklist for a little while now. Any tips on how to start a decent wardrobe?

Go to your local haberdasher (Jos A. Banks and Brooks Bros are widely available), and tell him you want to start a decent wardrobe. Follow his lead, as finances allow. If you're young, emphasize that you want a conservative wardrobe, since that will ensure that it won't look odd on you in 10 years. With guys the cut and fit do more to make you look good than hewing to the latest fashion, so buy conservative and buy well, and let your haberdasher tailor it to fit you as perfectly as possible. If your finances allow, consider the possibility of having the major pieces tailor-made for you. I've got a sport coat that was made by Elias Tailor here in Houston that fits me perfectly, and looks outstanding, and will last me pretty much forever. If my size changes then he made it so he's the guy to go to for adjustments.
 
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Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
What color for charcoalish ... pants?

If you mean what colour sportscoat goes well with charcoal pants, I'd direct you to black, cream, or any earth-toned tweedy stuff. A camel-hair sportscoat would look smashing with charcoal pants.
 
I don't button unless it's cold out (rare in Houston, except for today, which set a record for earliest snowfall). Blazers and sport coats are pretty casual attire after all. I button my suit coats.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
Thanks all.

One last question....I think.

With a sportcoat/blazer, to button or not to button?

They should be buttoned when standing, unbuttoned when seated. If you are actually doing 'sport' (what the sportcoat was originally intended for) you may want to unbutton depending on the sport.
 
Question on the sizing.
How low should a blazer be? Both total length and the chest opening when top button is fastened?

If it's to low is this something that can be fixed with alteration?
 
I've been trying to find this type of checklist for a little while now. Any tips on how to start a decent wardrobe?

Seems to me that "thousands" of years ago I saw a checklist like you are looking for. If I had to guess it would have been in Esquire, Playboy or something like that, and probably had to do with a checklist for college clothes; maybe for post-college. I would ask on AskAndy or Style Forum.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
Question on the sizing.
How low should a blazer be? Both total length and the chest opening when top button is fastened?

If it's to low is this something that can be fixed with alteration?

Hold your arm down at your side naturally (relaxed) with the palm facing your thigh. Notice how your fingers curl in toward your leg? The bottom of the jacket should not be lower than your knuckles. (As well, the jacket should cover your @$$ as well ... so if you have freakishly short arms, you may need to alter the general advice above.)

A very good tailor may be able to take a bit off the bottom, but not much.


As for where the button 'stance' should be ... that's more a matter of preference. (I prefer a spot about halfway between the solar plexus and belly button.) And wherever the manufacturer made it, that's where it's going to have to stay.
 
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