Help identifying the source of my irritation

[Bobovata]

one thing I do agree with many on is it might take a few months or so to get that technique dialed in but I also do not think its some mystery thing that takes forever to master

I agree that there is no mystery to achieving a basic level of competence and consistency, and that it shouldn't take too long to get there. It is mostly just practice.

But I think it takes the rest of your life to master.

 

[ivan_101]

If you are talking about the Nivea Sensitive shaving cream in a tube, I must say it is more watery and doesn't provide for me enough protection. The blue regular Nivea tube is the way to go. Much thicker and super protective cream. Closeness of shave is not as good, but the skin has all the protection it needs.

 

[The Blackadder]

This is a HUGE YMMV
I have about 10 blades left to test or so
for me the Treet Dura Sharp have moved to #1 then Nacet is #2
I also found the Wilkinson sword German super comfy and more testing needed and the Blue Astra
but for sure just have to try a bunch then come back around in a year and try again is my thinking after DE shaving a few years I changed my thoughts some over the first year and pretty stable on what I like now
also in my other razors certain blades that work well in one do not work as well in the other so I really found I just needed to test them in each razor

one thing I do agree with many on is it might take a few months or so to get that technique dialed in but I also do not think its some mystery thing that takes forever to master and that its ALL technique and any razor blade and soap combo can work that I found is NOT true at all for my sensitive skin and face and the gear can for surely make or break the comfort level big time
especially shaving daily

brush wise I am using a RV (Rudy Vey) he is a member here makes super nice handles and can put a Muhle STF knot which I LOVE and is my #1 for now
I had two other synthetics a Italian Barber Plissoft but it was a touch itchy and some other viking brand also a touch itchy to my sensitive skin so the Muhle STF is superior for me and many love them for synthetic
the one other brush I love is a Semogue badger and its insane soft and nice but the synthetic develops lather a touch better I feel in my super hard water but its my #2 but for sure its softer on the face

I find the Captains Choice Cream the best so far and the TOBS Jermyn Street for sensitive skin might be #2 and then SV soap has been very good but again this is personal
soaps that have bugged me the prorasso(very drying) and Stirling(allergic reaction) and forgot the other one that flat out could not use
but a few other soaps also on extended use kinda leave my skin more irritated feeling post shave so I am also going to go back through my soaps and compare all of them again

For me its the after I use one for a few weeks that I start to notice just like the blades and the razors that I notice the irritation set in and again I have to then stop long enough to kinda heal up for a day and am OK or switch to that super mild razor for a few days
so I kinda have this its not worth it and while its a fun hobby its more about loving the shave every day and NOT having irritated skin ever again

when I used cart 5 blade type razors I hated shaving and did it as little as I could and would look like a extra on old Miami Vice shows with my shadow same as with my braun electric
if I had stopped at my first nice razor I would think its just as painful so glad I kept trying and same as the blades some are just flat out eye tearing painful !

FYI 59 yr old red facial hair that has gone over half grey and super sensitive skin and have allergies that also effect me sometimes

soaps I have so far

My end goal is to have one maybe two things I love and just use the best of the best though many are OK with almost all soaps and seem to do well with most soaps ? Again that YMMV

IMHO a soap is not a soap and while some are very close a few have stood out way more comfy

as for face or bowl I work up in bowl but do a small bit on my face Splaying the brush and then paint smooth but not to much
I have tried face lathering and find I like the bowl way better
for the CC Cream or the TOBS I can face lather since they work up so quick but even with the softest brush I notice it can push my skin past its comfort

one thing for me if I shave after I shower I get way more irritation almost like it makes my skin to sensitive or to soft ? And that is even with just water on my face

I have played around a bit with some pre shaves but found they do not do much ? But some find they work for them and seems many say the Grooming Dept one is really good

I can say I used to use Cremo when I used a cart type razor and have used it with my DE for travel but the other brands like above IMHO are way better for my face in comfort but I keep the Cremo around for that travel which for me is camping

I have had a few razors and as example the Wolfman 1.15 was to much for me daily the .95 gap I was OK for a week then it would catch up and be to much and I had to take a break
my current is a Timeless Ti .68 SB that I love BUT again the YMMV and I did find I was glad to test various razors to find one that I never nick and get comfy shaves with
and I still want to try a low gap wolfman like a .75/.85 and a Tatara razor still as I want to make sure I scratch that itch to know they shave like !

Hope all that rambling helps

Many of us have a Journal page and I find its a good place to put down my thoughts

minimalist quest for the #1

OK decided to start this ;) this place has been great !! I was planning on finding the #1 of each I needed but finding I am OK with a couple of each much like pans/knives or bicycles :) its Ok to have a couple for choice so yeah I failed at that quickly and OK with it :) my theory so far is...

www.badgerandblade.com

so might be worth starting one to kinda track what you are doing using and what you thought to look back on

Thank you sir, for your comprehensive answer. I was about to get a Plissoft, but I’ll stick to my simple Rockwell while I adjust technique and try the other gear first. I’m keeping a personal journal, by the way

Cold water is good.
Alum is a bit harsh for my skin (I use it only if I nick myself and as deodorant)
Alery to ceram or balm, sensitive stuff has different formula from reuglar stuff, try regular cream for a couple of shaves.
But, in my humble opinion, it's most likely shaving technique, map your beard, and adjust pressure and angle.

You are right about the last bit. I still need practice. Yesterday I shaved after 2 1/2 days, my lather wasn’t that great (should’ve used more product) and the blade gap in my Progress was too much. So I really need to fine tune several aspects of the shave too.

If you are talking about the Nivea Sensitive shaving cream in a tube, I must say it is more watery and doesn't provide for me enough protection. The blue regular Nivea tube is the way to go. Much thicker and super protective cream. Closeness of shave is not as good, but the skin has all the protection it needs.

Thanks. As I said above, I need to improve my lather so it gives me more protection. Already started trying a different cream

 

[Doc Dan]

I'm going to offer this:

First, I had a Merkur Progress and it was so harsh I gifted it to some. An Edwin Jagger DE89 is a lot smoother, as is a more expensive Henson razor. Your face. You make the choice.

Second, there are blades just aren't right for a person's face that others will love. Those blades you use are okay for me, but I am happier with Nacet.

Third, I am going out on a limb and suggest that a lot of your problem is allergic reactions. This is very common and the symptoms are just what you said. Stop any preshaves and prewashes. There are a number of soaps that are good and mild. Stirling makes unscented Beeswax shaving soap and another one. La Toja makes a Sensitive skin shaving cream in a tube (use a dollop the size of your thumbnail only). Shower before you shave with a hypoallergenic soap and use one of the unscented sensitive skin soaps and see if that doesn't help you. I think it will.

 

[Frito Ray]

Don’t go out and buy 52 new products, work with what you have for now.

You say you must shave daily, then perform no more than a 2 pass shave. Unless you are a gigolo, no one is going to care if you have a BBS face.

For a while, it would be better to avoid scrubbing your face too much; switch to bowl lathering and paint your lather on.

Do a search on winter shaving, as a lot of folks (including myself) need to change their routine during the cold season…cold leads to heating, heating leads to dry air, dry air leads to sensitive dry skin.

 

[BigJ]

Great advice above!!

If those excellent suggestions don’t work, then you need to find a good dermatologist.

 

[DesertIguana]

I'm going to offer this:

First, I had a Merkur Progress and it was so harsh I gifted it to some. An Edwin Jagger DE89 is a lot smoother, as is a more expensive Henson razor. Your face. You make the choice.

Second, there are blades just aren't right for a person's face that others will love. Those blades you use are okay for me, but I am happier with Nacet.

Third, I am going out on a limb and suggest that a lot of your problem is allergic reactions. This is very common and the symptoms are just what you said. Stop any preshaves and prewashes. There are a number of soaps that are good and mild. Stirling makes unscented Beeswax shaving soap and another one. La Toja makes a Sensitive skin shaving cream in a tube (use a dollop the size of your thumbnail only). Shower before you shave with a hypoallergenic soap and use one of the unscented sensitive skin soaps and see if that doesn't help you. I think it will.

Great observation, and advice.

 

[The Blackadder]

First, I had a Merkur Progress and it was so harsh I gifted it to some. An Edwin Jagger DE89 is a lot smoother, as is a more expensive Henson razor. Your face. You make the choice.

First, thanks doc. In all honesty, I had considered buying a mild Henson after reading how it has helped other people with irritation. What held me back were some comments saying that as it is very light, some shavers tend to put too much pressure and ended up with frequent razor burns. I’ll stick to my Progress in the lowest settings for a while, but I’ll definitely get the Henson if my problem doesn’t improve (had it in my shopping cart just a few days ago)

Second, there are blades just aren't right for a person's face that others will love. Those blades you use are okay for me, but I am happier with Nacet.

I’m finishing a pack of Astras and I will continue with the Nacets. I have GSB, Treets, Rapiras, Wizamets, etc., but I’ll listen to your advice

Third, I am going out on a limb and suggest that a lot of your problem is allergic reactions. This is very common and the symptoms are just what you said. Stop any preshaves and prewashes. There are a number of soaps that are good and mild. Stirling makes unscented Beeswax shaving soap and another one. La Toja makes a Sensitive skin shaving cream in a tube (use a dollop the size of your thumbnail only). Shower before you shave with a hypoallergenic soap and use one of the unscented sensitive skin soaps and see if that doesn't help you. I think it will

You are probably right, although I’ve had skin tests done and just found I’m allergic to peanuts and lettuce, figure that. But I’ll add unscented or milder soaps to try. Just got a La Toya sensitive skin balm aftershave, maybe trying that will work as a reference. I tried getting their other stuff, but it’s always sold out. Regarding shower, unfortunately warm or hot water is really a no go for my face, as it produces redness, dryness and inflammation. I even have to be careful when having hot soup or beverages. I’ll have to replace that part with a long cold water scrubbing along with a gentle soap. Thanks again

 

[The Blackadder]

Don’t go out and buy 52 new products, work with what you have for now.

You say you must shave daily, then perform no more than a 2 pass shave. Unless you are a gigolo, no one is going to care if you have a BBS face.

For a while, it would be better to avoid scrubbing your face too much; switch to bowl lathering and paint your lather on.

Do a search on winter shaving, as a lot of folks (including myself) need to change their routine during the cold season…cold leads to heating, heating leads to dry air, dry air leads to sensitive dry skin.

Thanks. I’m already doing just one pass WTG and few touch ups, and using cold water for everything. You are quite right about heat and skin, hot air is another big enemy of my face. Will switch to bowl lather in my next shave

 

[Doc Dan]

You are probably right, although I’ve had skin tests done and just found I’m allergic to peanuts and lettuce, figure that. But I’ll add unscented or milder soaps to try. Just got a La Toya sensitive skin balm aftershave, maybe trying that will work as a reference. I tried getting their other stuff, but it’s always sold out. Regarding shower, unfortunately warm or hot water is really a no go for my face, as it produces redness, dryness and inflammation. I even have to be careful when having hot soup or beverages. I’ll have to replace that part with a long cold water scrubbing along with a gentle soap. Thanks again

That shows me it is likely allergies to something or some kind of dermatitis. Oh, and peanuts are a common and serious allergy.

I think we can figure this out. Remove one thing at a time that you are doing and see what happens. Then, remove another. Don't do everything at once. Eventually we will get to the bottom of it.

 

[The Blackadder]

That shows me it is likely allergies to something or some kind of dermatitis. Oh, and peanuts are a common and serious allergy.

I think we can figure this out. Remove one thing at a time that you are doing and see what happens. Then, remove another. Don't do everything at once. Eventually we will get to the bottom of it.

Thanks a lot. In fact I was wrongly diagnosed (apparently) with psoriasis like twenty years ago, my next doctors concluded it’s one type of dermatitis, but I definitely have a skin condition (most of my close family does). I’ve read that some people with allergies try new products on the crease of the elbow before putting them on the skin, do you think it’s a good idea?

 

[Ckmaui]

My morning routine that works for me has no scrubbing no shower no soaps before I shave
I just use a washcloth wet it hold it against my face over and over for a few minutes no scrubbing no buffing nothing and do that ?
Warmer water for me the cold water is not enough and hot water is to much so this is more like warm pool temp water NOT hot tub hot maybe around 80 in f temp

If I wash even using cerave or mild soaps I get way more issues or feedback tingle burn after shaving and as said a shower before I get bad shaves

one thing I did a bit was mid day I would apply a bunch of the soaps and leave on for 5 min or so and wash off and see if any redness and then apply some splash I know was OK like Old Spice for me is mild enough and sense the tingle I would get
to preface this I would put on Old Spice mid day after brushing my teeth so I know what its like when it hits the face mid day with no soap ! So its kinda comparing did that soap irritate my face some
hope that makes sense
So to repeat I found did irritate with no shaving but just putting it on and leaving it for 5 or so minutes and the splash just accentuated that feel so makes it easier to sense

is that Merkur adjustable ? Not familiar but googled the name shows it is ? What happens when you have it dialed all the way down for a shave vs dialed up or where you are using it ?
Do think starting with rotating a few blades which sounds like you have will give you an idea how the blades can vary though

I do agree I might not go out and buy to many soaps creams right away but also dont be afraid to try some new stuff when stuff is not working
again for me I can tell if its not working I say why keep trying to make it work and just move on and come back around to it and see

 

[The Blackadder]

My morning routine that works for me has no scrubbing no shower no soaps before I shave
I just use a washcloth wet it hold it against my face over and over for a few minutes no scrubbing no buffing nothing and do that ?
Warmer water for me the cold water is not enough and hot water is to much so this is more like warm pool temp water NOT hot tub hot maybe around 80 in f temp

If I wash even using cerave or mild soaps I get way more issues or feedback tingle burn after shaving and as said a shower before I get bad shaves

one thing I did a bit was mid day I would apply a bunch of the soaps and leave on for 5 min or so and wash off and see if any redness and then apply some splash I know was OK like Old Spice for me is mild enough and sense the tingle I would get
to preface this I would put on Old Spice mid day after brushing my teeth so I know what its like when it hits the face mid day with no soap ! So its kinda comparing did that soap irritate my face some
hope that makes sense
So to repeat I found did irritate with no shaving but just putting it on and leaving it for 5 or so minutes and the splash just accentuated that feel so makes it easier to sense

is that Merkur adjustable ? Not familiar but googled the name shows it is ? What happens when you have it dialed all the way down for a shave vs dialed up or where you are using it ?
Do think starting with rotating a few blades which sounds like you have will give you an idea how the blades can vary though

I do agree I might not go out and buy to many soaps creams right away but also dont be afraid to try some new stuff when stuff is not working
again for me I can tell if its not working I say why keep trying to make it work and just move on and come back around to it and see

Good idea about testing the soap before on the face. My Merkur is in fact adjustable. It goes from 0 to level 6 or something, increasing blade exposure. I normally use it in 2 or 2.5, I’ll try going back to one. The thing is, I feel it doesn’t really cut at 1, that’s why I went a little higher

 

[Happy Jack]

Some thoughts:

Prepare my face just splashing cold water and scrubbing for about a minute

I would cut out the prep altogether. For me it's unnecessary. YMMV. Scrubbing for a minute sounds harsh.

Apply alum block to my face

Unless your face is bleeding this shouldn't be necessary. Certainly don't use alum as part of your routine.

Face lather with Nivea sensitive shaving cream using my brush

Maybe try bowl lathering instead?

I've only used Astra SP blades, 5 times tops each

I love Astra SP blades, but I would find 5 shaves a bit much. I usually change blades after about 3 shaves.

I hope you figure out what works best for you.

 

[Ckmaui]

Good idea about testing the soap before on the face. My Merkur is in fact adjustable. It goes from 0 to level 6 or something, increasing blade exposure. I normally use it in 2 or 2.5, I’ll try going back to one. The thing is, I feel it doesn’t really cut at 1, that’s why I went a little higher

Yeah that is the tough thing with even trying to understand mild as some mild razors cut well some not as much ? And of course like the Lupo that some love its so blade forward for me the RR GC some say its to mild and others love them

was more curious but at some point trying another razor to compare could be a good move even something like the RR GC or the Rockwell where you can change plates ? the upside is many on the buy sell here are good deals and many razors are easy to sell when they are popular

I can say only been at this for about 3 yrs and still finding my fav items but I also enjoy the journey of finding the best ones and in no hurry !
While I enjoy the morning routine so much I find the last few years all of the shaves are great some are just WOW great and that is my end goal to have those every day

 

[Tirvine]

I find that creams and soaps can be similar of quite different. The differences I notice have more to do with emolients and scents. I find that both Pre de Provence and the less scented Martin de Candres strike what is, for me, the right balance. I want cushion and slickness but no oiliness or greasiness. As to face or bowl lathering, once you find a soap that just explodes with lather when hit by a wet brush, face lathering with a soft badger is wonderful, quick and easy. Once you have a lather that is not particularly fluffy, more wet and lubricious, a shave with multiple gentle passes is next. Razors and blades are all over the place. I find a sharp blade in a mild razor nice. I often wonder if a slant might help with a better shave on my neck. Whether it would or not, gentle, very gentle, strokes in multiple directions tames the beard for me.

 

[The Blackadder]

was more curious but at some point trying another razor to compare could be a good move even something like the RR GC or the Rockwell where you can change plates ?

Yeah, I’ve been really wanting to try a Henson. A lot of people say it’s very easy on the skin and friendly to new shavers because of its design. I might get it in a few weeks

 

[Doc Dan]

Thanks a lot. In fact I was wrongly diagnosed (apparently) with psoriasis like twenty years ago, my next doctors concluded it’s one type of dermatitis, but I definitely have a skin condition (most of my close family does). I’ve read that some people with allergies try new products on the crease of the elbow before putting them on the skin, do you think it’s a good idea?

I do that. I will put something, especially food, that I am suspicious of on the crease of my elbow and on the back of my hand. However, with contact dermatitis from soap allergies (it is most often the perfume in them, but not always) it may not show up immediately. Still, it is a good idea.

Have you tried The Grandpa pine tar soap? It makes you smell like you've been around a campfire, but it is pretty good on breakouts. It is recommended by the National Psoriasis foundation. It has No phthalates, sulfates, parabens, EDTA, glutens, fragrances or colorants. I bath with it every few days when I notice red places on my arms. Dove makes a hypo-allergenic or sensitive bar soap. They make a liquid soap like that, too, but I personally prefer the bar soap. Mitchell's Wool Fat makes a bar soap with lanolin that is mild (if you aren't allergic to lanolin...most people aren't). I also use the shaving soap. Any of these will leave your face hydrated, especially the MWF followed by the Dove. Your bath soap could be part of the problem, but not the whole problem.

Also, try some Stirling Beeswax unscented shaving soap and some La Toja sensitive shaving cream (not the same as that shaving balm you bought at all). See if these solve your problem. Remember, change one thing. Change shaving soap. Then change bath soap. If that doesn't do it, change your razor. Etc. However, I'm betting on the shaving soap and maybe the bath soap, too.

 

[Ckmaui]

Yeah, I’ve been really wanting to try a Henson. A lot of people say it’s very easy on the skin and friendly to new shavers because of its design. I might get it in a few weeks

when I tried them I bought 2
a regular or the least aggressive and the mid one (forgot what they call them)
my wife took over the most mild and I am saving the other one for my boy 14 now when he starts
so I do believe in them that much
while I found I like others they are great bang for buck and I think having my wife try it and love it and the fact I will save one for my boy might say yeah even if it gets you going OR becomes your #1 they are a nice piece of kit to try

 

[Keyvan]

I just had a few thoughts with regard to your issues. The brush can actually wind up irritating your skin more than the razor. I see someone else suggested bowl lathering and I think that it would definitely save your face from some wear and tear.

Also, some people who have sensitive skin do well with Proraso White and Mitchells Wool Fat and several artisans sell unscented versions of their soaps. The guy from Razor Emporium has a few videos where he recommends shaving with cold water. I don't enjoy that, but it apparently helps some people with sensitive skin.

Make sure the blade that you are using is not too dull. If you are feeling any amount of tugging, it's too dull. If you are getting nicked, you might be pressing down on the razor; only use the weight of the head and avoid shaving against the grain. Keep in mind that the direction of the grain of your hair growth can change depending on the specific part of your face. You can determine it by drawing your hand across your growth. The direction that feels the roughest is opposite to the grain.

Finally, some people are allergic to nickel, other metals, or polymers. You can try an uncoated stainless steel blade, like the Astra Blue. Feather used to make an excellent plastic razor called the Feather Popular. The use of an uncoated stainless steel blade and plastic razor might lessen your exposure to leeched metals. In general, I don't like the idea of using an Alum block. I use alcohol free Thayer's Witch Hazel and it works very well for me.